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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 30, 1908)
TIIE SUNDAY OREGOMAX, PORTLAND, AUGUST 30, 1903. Fetching Wraps for Fall Evenings THIS is the season of the year when we long for something which will prolong the life of the Summer ward robe. None of us know Just what color or material to select for the new Fall costume, and hence we turn to light wraps which may be worn over Summer frocks until a wise decision has been made. Certainly the new wraps are won derful In coloring, but they are extreme ly simple in cut. and this should be counted as a blessing by the home sewer. A word about selecting hats to wear with a costume consisting of an odd wraD and a separate frock. Match the color of the wrao rather than the gown. The coloring of all separate wraps should be neutral. No glaring reds, brilliant blues, or vivid nns. Rather select something which will harmonize with al most any dress you may find In the wardrobe. A soft, dull gray warp can be worn well with any gown. Tan color is an old standby, and if you can only Ywiaat nf one wran. this would be a safe choice. Dark blue Is almost strictly Summer shade, and a soft golden brown makes a better looking Fall garment. For evening wear, of course, the pale hadea ire very appropriate. The well-dressed Hummer girl has boasted of a striped skirt, and this she now wishes to use for general wear. With these skirts are worn odd Jackets, matching the dark stripe In the skirt material. If the skirt is a three-toned iriv stripe, then match the darkest shade for the odd Jacket. Figure A presents a splendid model for a Jacket of this character. The pic ture shows a narrow braided vest, but the jacket could be cut two inches lar ger in the fronts, and the Jacket ellm lnated entirely. This particular Jacket was worn with a brown and tan striped skirt. The material was French serge. The Jacket was of plain brown French serge in the matching shade. The braiding was done by hand in a soft shade of brown silk soutache. The soft silk tie. forming a collar at the back, and falling In graceful ends over the front, was of brown loulsine, finished off at either side with bronze buckles. The model could be made simpler by making the sleeves full length and elim inating the braiding. It would require two and one-half yards of double width serge to make this Jacket, or five yards of silk. Figure B represents one of the smart est odd jackets seen this season. This model lends itself to silk better than any heavier material. This is the type of jacket to wear over lingerie dresses, or light Summer frocks In dainty color ing. The most up-to-date material tor these little Jumper Jackets is the new pompadour silk, but this Is not cheap, unless remnants can be found at a bar gain. If pompadour or figured silk of any kind is used for the Jacket, then the lining must be plain in color. The deft fingered girl who does not wish to Invest in an expensive silk will find that faille silk or rather heavy weight will be her next best choice. This can be embroidered. The collar and sleeve bands should be of chiffon velvet. The buttons could be of velvet, matching the collar, or. If the jackPt Is for even ing wear, rhlnestone buttons would add distinction to the garment. This little jacket was seen the other day made of dull gray surah of a heavy quality. The collar and sleeve bands were of brilliant Japanese embroidery, which can be purchased In strips. This banding contained many bright colors and here and there touches of gilt. Buttons, outlined down both sides, were made of large molds covered with black velvet and embroidered in gilt. It would require three yards of silk to make this jacket. We now turn to the long loose wrap, which can be worn over fluffy frocks In the evening or over the plainer gowns for general street wear. The only difference would be In the ma terial and trimming. For street wear there is nothing better than the chiffon broadcloths, now seen In almost every possible color. This cloth is light in weight, soft In texture and cleanses beautifully. For evening and carriage wear there are numberless fabrics, many silks under fancy names, heavy lace, cashmere, etc. Figure C shows a practical kimono coat, simple In line and very practical The Use of Relaxation as I WONDER If I told the girl with the lines around her niounh, wrinkles in her forehead, and a heavy look under her eyes, that these were caused by the "hurry-up" method of her life, would she believe me? I doubt it. Yet the statement Is true of the majority of American women. We rush for our trains, we gulp our food, and In a hun dred ways we do not give nature a chance. We develop "trolley faces," and in our effort to drown the noise about us we pitch our voices almost up to the proteclng skies. The woman of forty who reaa'3 this may say. "Well, I'm too old to change my ways." But please remember that It is never too late to give nature a chance never "too late to mend." Just save some of your misdirected energy and expend it In a good cause. The woman who has a family breaks down every so often, no particular disease Just a collapse. And she does not know what causes it. Just this hurry, worry atmosphere does it. Such a woman must relax during the day; it Is just as necessary to her health as food. Now, relaxation does not mean a change. Many women confuse the two words. The busy mother caijiot get relaxation by dressing herself and go ing out to visit the neighbors. This is an effort. Every day at a certain hour, she must give herself up to absolute rest. If she rises early, then she should take the rest before the nowiday meal, or immediately afterwards. But It should be taken at a certain hour every day. She must undress and put on a night gown and lie i.at on her back for one hour by the clock. Then, when the children come home from school with their little troubles, mother can solve them all without an effort. When things go wrong in the evening, she has gained enough strength to straighten them out, and the lines of her face will not be so deep. The popular young girl who has just started her social career finds herself rushed for time. She just catches the last trolley, and arrives at her destina tion at the last moment. She come in late to luncheon and does not take time to masticate her food. In the aft ernoon she develops a headache, and wonders why! Then she rushes to the patent medicine bottle and takes a tab let. At the end. of three months of this sort of life, she gazes at herself in the mirror and wonders how she came by the heavy lines In her young face. Why not get started ten minutes earlier and ratrh the right car? Why not leave the girls a few minutes sooner and - nronerlv eat your luncheon? There would be do need then for the tablets. for either the young woman or her mother. This model would take six yards of cloth, or 12 yards of silk, but could be made with less goods if the pattern were cut shorter. Thie, how ever, would detract from the long, straight lines now so fashionable. This model shows the use of the Persian or Japanese banding and the heavy silk tassels, matching the cloth In color. A coat of this character should be lined, and, I might add. that foulard silks, which can now be purchased for a song, are very appropriate linings for a medium-weight wrap. But In select ing a lining, be sure that you buy nothing that would conflict In color ing with your bright banding. If the banding is not used, then the wrap And let me say right here to this type of girl the society girl that good health is the greatest beautifier in the world. Let -the dear old lady, maybe .a grand mother, who loves the little ones, get away for her relaxation every day. It will prolong her life and Increase her usefulness. Let her go into a darkened room where there Is quiet, and for just a little time each day, let go of herself. Let mind and body be perfectly limp. Some faddists have said that we must not laugh too much or we will develop the dreaded "laughing line." I am not a believer in this theory. Maybe the laughing lines will come, but they will not be half so bad as the wrinkles and heavy crow's feet caused by a fretting, fault-finding, carping disposition. Laugh every time you can, and If the laughing lines appear massage them every night with a stimulating cream. To all of us comes trouble much to some of us but take life as easy as you can. I knew a girl who wore for two months a pair of corsets which hurt her. She said she bought them in a hurry and had to wear them. Can you imagine the fretful face she ac quired during those two months? And it is really surprising how many women Elderly Women THERE Is always a complaint among those who are more than 60 years old that no one ever suggests fashions for them, says the New York Times. All tha good advice is given to the young and the middle-aged. Part of this is due to the belief that there are no more old ladles. A woman has to be quite old. Indeed, before she wears a lace cap in the house and con tents herself with an all-black ward robe. Grandmothers have no Idea of dressing as "old ladies." Most of them are not more than 60 years okl, and at 50 these days it is absurd to think of a woman wearing a bonnet on the street and a black cape around her shoulders. She wears pretty much the same things as a woman of 25 does. The Empire and Princess frocks are used for her; so are the sweeping hats heaped with plumes or flowers. She. wears the white lacs veils and carries a cretonne parasol. The question of age governing dress Is of less Importance now than It has been for a century or two. Not long ago it was even a question among women of 40 If thev were too old to wear white frocks. Naturally this problem did not come up could be outlined with a bias strip of silk matching the lining or chiffon vel vet, outlined with a tiny gilt soutache. Figure D shows the newest wrap in the form of a circular cape. Almost without exception these capes are un llned, and are made of broadcloth. The collar, which forms a square yoke at the back, should be of soft velvet In a becoming shade, a tone barker than the color of the broadcloth. If' the cloth is full 64 inches wide. It would require three and one-half yards. If narrower, then four and one-half yards would be necessary. Almost all the smartly dressed girls at fashionable resort are wearing capes of this mod el, and it lends itself to all figures equally well. MART DEAN. a Beautifier wear shoes which do not fit them. How can you assume a peaceful expression If you are In actual physical pain? You cannot relax under such conditions. The average girl In business stays In bed until the last tick of the clock, she does not have time to manicure her nails, and hurriedly swallows her cof fee. She arrives at the office a few minutes late, dreading a reprimand. At lunch she shops most of the time, and Bpends five minutes out of the 60 In the process of eating. And she blames business for her lines. If it has been necessary for you to hurry all day, and with an engagement before you in the evening, perhaps the best way to restore your tired nerves and racked energy is a warm bath, fol lowed by a cold spray. Changing the temperature of the water from hot to cold acts as a stimulant to the tired body. But relax If you can. Be it only for ten minutes each day. It will help to beautify you. Do not argue that it is too much bother to undress that it will muss your hair to lie down, etc Believe me, it will save time spent in the beauty parlor, and money paid to the doctor. KATHERINE MORTON. Wearing White among the class known as fashionable, or those who followed the dictates and conventions of a wide and broad social world. But these people are In the minority. It was the majority who were worried about the all-white frock. It might be well to announce at the start that all white is the one color that can be worn from the cradle to the grave. It is as equally fit for a woman of SO as a babe of one day old. Nothing is prettier on an old lady than this snowy whiteness In soft materials. She should never wear anything else in the house during Spring and Summer. It also does for all warm weather outdoor wear. As for the mooted question of black, there Is much to be said for and against Its general usage by old ladies. It Is well to have it as a background, but the well dressed old ladies of today are going In for gray, for lilac, for striped purple and white, and for striped black and white. These are preferred to black for every occasion. A silver gray costume Is con sidered the correct one for a gala affair held in the day or evening. In Summer, muslins In gray, white, lavender and striae axe all used In place of the black i I silk mull, grenadine, and taffeta of other I I s. ' : I days. The models for these frocks do not depart radically from those used for the younger generation. If an old lady likes dressy frocks she can have nothing pret tier than the modified Empire, because it hides her waist line, which Is always the worst part of hsr figure. The skirt that extends in well cnt lines to just below the bust is becoming and dignified. The bodice drapery above it is usually in surplice effect, as the new round effects are too youthful in their lines. " The sleeves are usually of three-quarter length except where the arm has gTown scrawny and demands a covering. Then It Is loose, wrinkled and runs down well over the hand. Around the bust is a wide drapery of ribbon or silk on the bias, finished with two loops and long ends at the left front. Whatever model is chosen, one should avoid a well-defined waist line and the old fashioned basque with Its pointed front and back. Narrow shoulders should be concealed with wide drapery, and all the Empire and Dlrectolre effects of the day should be used, because they conceal the lack of good curves in the figure. Because of her figure, she should not wear a narrowly gored skirt without trim ming. She should choose soft fabrics, which she can put Into plaits and tucks at the waist line. A New Soft Material. A new soft silk, something on the surah order, with Oriental designs in very Oriental colors, is called kimono Bilk. Unllned Circular Cape. Where it acquired It name It Is diffi cult to say, but the fact remains that the material Is desirable and extremely effective for the new very much draped dresses that have been so much talked about. In the light colors, too, It would be perfectly fascinating for negligees, for it is not transparent, as are India and China silks, while at the same time it is soft and pliable and falls in most attrac tive lines. It Is Just the sort of material that will appeal to any woman who realizes what beauty may He In graceful folds, and it will, therefore, be as much admired as It deserves. liifr Etiquette: rHAT not to wear" should have a chapter to itself In the up-to- date book of etiquette. The tendency of the times is toward such elaboration in dress that . the average woman Is apt to err on the eide of over dressing, rather than toward severity; SMART while the man who pretends to any. so cial Hfe must give great care to the se lection of his wardrobe for various occa sions. This Summer a young woman was In vited to Join a party of college girls, who. duly chaperoned, were to be entertained at a lodge In the woods, established by a group of young men from a prominent university. This girl had never made such a trip and. In fact, knew little of FOUND ON BAR GAIN TABLE JUST now the newspapers are full of alluring advertisements of bar gains, and the stores are laden with short lengths and broken lots that are certainly tempting to the feminine eye. But once In the store it Is not an easy matter to make a wise selection. Some bargains are good investments, while others are worthless. The, silk counters are laden with short lengths of silk at less than half what they were in season. In buying foulards and Summer silks, be wary of the distinct patterns. For instance, this year stripes have been most fash ionable. You may find a dress-length of striped silk and buy it for your best dress next Summen When next Sum mer comes, you find that stripes are out of date, and everything Is figured. Solid colors will always be worn, and they are a safe choice. Figured and striped silks will always make practical lin ings for coats and wraps, and there is never any set style of coloring or "fig ures for house gowns. But be careful what you buy for street .wear twelve months hence. Tan and white shoes are now being sold for less than the cost of making, but a shoe that does not fit is dear at any price. If you can find your size and a comfortable shoe, marked way down, then by all means Invest in such a bargain. But do not, because a shoe Is marked $1.95, reduced from $6.00, buy it if it is not a perfect fit. Odd lengths of embroidery and stray bits of lace are to be found at great bargains, and the woman who has a family will always find use for them. In these days even a very little lace can be used by cpmbining It with a different make, so a good quality of any up-to-date lace Is always a good Investment. Certainly nothing will lend more distinction to a gown than a touch of really good lace. The em broidery, edging and Insertion, can be used for many purposes underclothes, lingerie waists, fancy aprons and white dresses next Summer. Do not buy a hat late this season, hoping to start out with it next spring. I know of nothing which Is more change able than styles in millinery. Unless you wish to put the hat on at once and wear it late into the fall, do not buy bargain millinery. You will find that next spring your hat will be different from all the new ones, and your money will be badly invested. MARY DEAN. Keeping Zinc Clean. Zinc is one of the moat difficult xntnlm Good Form college customs, and instead of frankly admitting her ignorance or tactfully put ting out a "feeler" as to the wardrobe needed, attempted to solve the problem for herself. Her one thought was to be pretty and attractive to the young men whose camp she was to grace, and as pink and blue were both becoming colore, JUMPER JACKET. she picked out several gowns in these delicate tints. The first stage of the trip was made on a lake steamer, lasting overnight. The young woman of inexperience appeared at the wharf, to the horror of her chape ron, in a pale pink lawn, trimmed in lace, a hat loaded with roses and lace, and for the finishing touch elbow sleeves and long white silk gloves. The girls who knew what's what m dress wore coat and skirt to keep brisht and stainless. It can be cleaned with sulphuric acid, but the greatest care must be observed In using this strong chemical. If you will do the work yourself, or have It done under your personal supervision, you will find this method satisfactory,: Have the zinc well washed with soap and hot water, that no trace of grease may remain on it: wipe It very dry. Make two mops by fastening pieces of cloth on two sticks; have on hand two pails of clean, cold water and a clean ing cloth. Put into a stoneware bowl one quart of cold water and very gradually add three ounces of sulphuric acid. Be very careful not to allow the acid to touch your hands. Dip one of the mops in the acid water and swab the zinc; in a few seconds It will begin to look bright and clear. When this occurs wash with the second mop and clear water; follow this with a good washing with a cloth and water to which household ammonia has been added in the proportion of a tablespoonful of ammonia to a quart of water. Rub the cleansed surface with dry whiting. Be sure to add the acid to the water and not the water to the acid. THE WEARING OF JEWELS IT TAKES instinctive good taste to know when Jewelry Is allowable and in good form. Very often, however, women, knowing perfectly well that they are violating the law of good taste, persist in the promiscuous wear ing of jewels at all times of the day. Jewels, excepting rings, should never be worn except when the costume is at least semi-dressy. Necklaces and brace lets are most distinctly out of place with a strictly tailored gown, although rings are allowable. It is conservative to say that orna ments should never be worn before 12 o'clock midday, and it" Is better to avoid them until after 3 o'clock In the afternoon. One bangle, or several plain ones, a few rings and a watch chain may be worn at any time, no matter how early the hour. Just as men always wait until after 6 before wearing evening dress. Just as no one would ever wear a watch with a bail gown, these little laws of fastidious fashion are quite universal ly obeyed. Girls before 18 should never wear precious stones, unless It be one hand some ring. When school days are over and long skirt3 are adopted they may wear what jewels they see fit, provid ing they do not deck themselves In a consriicuous way. in Clothes suits and matching blouses in either cloth or rough silk or very heavy linen with severely trimmed hats, long sleeves and smart ties peeping below their mod erately short skirts. When they reached the camp, the pretty girl of pink and blue lawns was in agony, not only because she was really cold and had to "borrow a friendly sweater when it turned rainy, but because she knew she was foolishly dressed. She had dressed for a garden party or a picnic, when she was going on a Journey. Another young woman was invited by the head of her department In the office to dine at the letter's home. She wore an extra fancy waist to the office that morning, "cleaned up" at the office lava tory and cheerfully wended her way to her chief's home. When she got there she was horrified to find herself the only woman in the dining-room clad in tailored skirt and shirtwaist. Her hostess and family, being entirely unprepared for her appearance In office garb, had;, as usual changed from street to simple house dresses, generally with necks slightly cut out to show, a bit of lace or a filmy tucker. And the girl could not offer the excuse that she had come straight from the office, for her chief, dismissed at tha same hour, had managed to make tha change from business to house toilet. A third young woman who had attract ed the attention of her employer's wife by her pretty face and pleasant manners, was. Invited to assist at a charity-entertainment the latter was giving. She ap peared at the afternoon function in what was plainly a discarded party dress much marked by ice cream and coffee stain?, with the neck cut low, and rather soiled white gloves. The hostess was not only embarrassed at the untidy appearance of her protege, but felt disappointed that a girl in whom she had taken an interest showed such bad taste as to appear in a low-necked frock before 6 o'clock. Here are some hard and fast rules about dress for both men and women: No man appears in evening clothes before 6 P. M., unless he is bound for dinner at some distance, when he hides his evening attire with an over coat. No man wears a black tie with full evening clothes, which Includes the swallow tall coat. The black tie Is permissible only with the tuxedo or dinner jacket worn at stag functions. The correct calling suit for a man at an afternoon tea or for general Sun day calling Is gray- trousers, fancy waistcoat, generally with a touch of gray, white and black; white shirt, gray ascot or puff tie, gray gloves and high silk hat. Full dress is NOT worn at a noon or afternoon wedding. What is commonly known as a lea gown Is not worn by a woman to re ceive callers in the afternoon. She has what is known as a house gown. The American tea gown or negligee is suit able only for boudoir, bedroom or morning-room wear en fainille. Gaily colored shoes and stockings should never be worn In the street. Pink kid slippers are for the house only. Going to and from a party where they are to be worn, they should be carried in a pretty little bag. Even the fashion of wearing colored stock ings with black slippers is bad form for general street wear.. They should be confined to the house, the porch er the grounds immediately about your home. "Dutch" neck blouses are not for wear at business. Neither are they to be worn with a strictly tailored suit.' They are for afternoon, house or even ing gowns. Lingerie dresses with sleeves above the elbow Joint, and without collars, are certainly not Tor street wear nor for shopping. The girl in mourning who wears crepe on her hat cannot wear a black waist trimmed with lace. A certain style of silk applique Is used for trim ming in mourning, but as a rule plain tucked net,- bias folds of chiffon and other plain trimmings are better form. , Black lace' with elaborate patterns is never good form in mourning. It Is extremely bad form to wear a soft crushed silk girdle. with plain tai lored shlrtwalt. With such a blouse you should wear a stitched belt match ing your skirt, or a plain leather belt not over an inch and a half in width. But the leather belt should not be worn with a soft, fancy blouse. With such a blouse wear the silk girdle. PRUDENCE STANDISH. FROM COUNTRY RECIPE BOOK HAVE you ever gone to a Summer boarding-house whose advertise ments featured "home cooking." and really gotten it? Then, truly, you have realized one of the real Joys of a Summer vacation'. Here are some reelpea gathered by a woman who .found just such a boarding place this Summer; and she went out into the big, many-win- i dowed kitchen of her landlady to gather them. Bread Savory A delicate breakfast or taa dish. For five persons have ready ' two tablespoons of butter, half an onion, a cup of dry bread cut In dice, five fresh eggs and salt and pepper to taste. Melt the butter In a skillet, slice the onion very thin and brown lightly in the but ter. Add the diced bread, shake until a light brown, then cover and allow bread, onion and butter to simmer together 15 minutes. Beat the eergs, yolks and whites together, stir lightly Into the mixture In the pan. toss with a fork, add pepper and salt, and when the eggs are set serve at once, very hot. If you prefer the diced bread crisp instead of soft, do not sim mer, but fry to a golden-brown and add the eggs at once. Prune Pudding Wash and soak ona pound of good California prunes over night. In the morning stew them until tender in the water in which they soaked, which should be quite cleur If the prunes were properly washed. When tender, drain off the water, stone and chop the prunes. Beat the whites of four eggs very stiff, add gradually one cup of su-. gar, beating all the while, and finally the chopped prunes. Pour at once into a deep baking dish, bake 20 minutes and serve cold with whipped cream sweetened and flavored with a little sherry wine. Orange Sponge One-third box of gela tine, one-third cup of cold water, one third cup of boiling water, one cup of sugar, one tablespoon strained lemon juice, one cup strained orange Juice, whites of three eggs, one cup of whipped cream. Soak the gelatine over-night in the cold water. In the mornlnr dissolve in the boiling water and add the sugar, lemon and grange Juices. Set the mix ture in a bowl Immersed In cold water or in cracked Ice to chill. Before It be gins to set add the beaten whites of the egg and the whipped cream. Have a mould lined with lady fingers or sponge cake and pour the gelatine cream In the center. Paraguay has an agreeable and healthful climate, notwithstanding about mix months of very hot weather, and the health oC it people la better on an average than that al tha inhabitants of tha coaat countries.
