TIIE SUNDAY OREGOMAX, PORTLAND, AUGUST 30, 1903.
Fetching Wraps for Fall Evenings
THIS is the season of the year when
we long for something which will
prolong the life of the Summer ward
robe. None of us know Just what color
or material to select for the new Fall
costume, and hence we turn to light
wraps which may be worn over Summer
frocks until a wise decision has been
made. Certainly the new wraps are won
derful In coloring, but they are extreme
ly simple in cut. and this should be
counted as a blessing by the home sewer.
A word about selecting hats to wear
with a costume consisting of an odd
wraD and a separate frock. Match the
color of the wrao rather than the gown.
The coloring of all separate wraps should
be neutral. No glaring reds, brilliant
blues, or vivid nns. Rather select
something which will harmonize with al
most any dress you may find In the
wardrobe. A soft, dull gray warp can
be worn well with any gown. Tan color
is an old standby, and if you can only
Ywiaat nf one wran. this would be a safe
choice. Dark blue Is almost strictly
Summer shade, and a soft golden brown
makes a better looking Fall garment.
For evening wear, of course, the pale
hadea ire very appropriate.
The well-dressed Hummer girl has
boasted of a striped skirt, and this she
now wishes to use for general wear.
With these skirts are worn odd Jackets,
matching the dark stripe In the skirt
material. If the skirt is a three-toned
iriv stripe, then match the darkest
shade for the odd Jacket.
Figure A presents a splendid model
for a Jacket of this character. The pic
ture shows a narrow braided vest, but
the jacket could be cut two inches lar
ger in the fronts, and the Jacket ellm
lnated entirely. This particular Jacket
was worn with a brown and tan striped
skirt. The material was French serge.
The Jacket was of plain brown French
serge in the matching shade. The
braiding was done by hand in a soft
shade of brown silk soutache. The soft
silk tie. forming a collar at the back,
and falling In graceful ends over the
front, was of brown loulsine, finished
off at either side with bronze buckles.
The model could be made simpler by
making the sleeves full length and elim
inating the braiding. It would require
two and one-half yards of double width
serge to make this Jacket, or five yards
of silk.
Figure B represents one of the smart
est odd jackets seen this season. This
model lends itself to silk better than
any heavier material. This is the type
of jacket to wear over lingerie dresses,
or light Summer frocks In dainty color
ing. The most up-to-date material tor
these little Jumper Jackets is the new
pompadour silk, but this Is not cheap,
unless remnants can be found at a bar
gain. If pompadour or figured silk of
any kind is used for the Jacket, then
the lining must be plain in color. The
deft fingered girl who does not wish to
Invest in an expensive silk will find that
faille silk or rather heavy weight will
be her next best choice. This can be
embroidered. The collar and sleeve
bands should be of chiffon velvet. The
buttons could be of velvet, matching
the collar, or. If the jackPt Is for even
ing wear, rhlnestone buttons would add
distinction to the garment.
This little jacket was seen the other
day made of dull gray surah of a heavy
quality. The collar and sleeve bands
were of brilliant Japanese embroidery,
which can be purchased In strips. This
banding contained many bright colors
and here and there touches of gilt.
Buttons, outlined down both sides,
were made of large molds covered with
black velvet and embroidered in gilt.
It would require three yards of silk
to make this jacket.
We now turn to the long loose wrap,
which can be worn over fluffy frocks
In the evening or over the plainer
gowns for general street wear. The
only difference would be In the ma
terial and trimming. For street wear
there is nothing better than the chiffon
broadcloths, now seen In almost every
possible color. This cloth is light in
weight, soft In texture and cleanses
beautifully. For evening and carriage
wear there are numberless fabrics,
many silks under fancy names, heavy
lace, cashmere, etc.
Figure C shows a practical kimono
coat, simple In line and very practical
The Use of Relaxation as
I WONDER If I told the girl with the
lines around her niounh, wrinkles
in her forehead, and a heavy look
under her eyes, that these were caused
by the "hurry-up" method of her life,
would she believe me? I doubt it. Yet
the statement Is true of the majority
of American women. We rush for our
trains, we gulp our food, and In a hun
dred ways we do not give nature a
chance. We develop "trolley faces,"
and in our effort to drown the noise
about us we pitch our voices almost up
to the proteclng skies.
The woman of forty who reaa'3 this
may say. "Well, I'm too old to change
my ways." But please remember that
It is never too late to give nature a
chance never "too late to mend." Just
save some of your misdirected energy
and expend it In a good cause. The
woman who has a family breaks down
every so often, no particular disease
Just a collapse. And she does not know
what causes it. Just this hurry, worry
atmosphere does it. Such a woman
must relax during the day; it Is just as
necessary to her health as food.
Now, relaxation does not mean a
change. Many women confuse the two
words. The busy mother caijiot get
relaxation by dressing herself and go
ing out to visit the neighbors. This is
an effort. Every day at a certain hour,
she must give herself up to absolute
rest. If she rises early, then she should
take the rest before the nowiday meal,
or immediately afterwards. But It
should be taken at a certain hour every
day. She must undress and put on a
night gown and lie i.at on her back
for one hour by the clock. Then, when
the children come home from school
with their little troubles, mother can
solve them all without an effort. When
things go wrong in the evening, she
has gained enough strength to
straighten them out, and the lines of
her face will not be so deep.
The popular young girl who has just
started her social career finds herself
rushed for time. She just catches the
last trolley, and arrives at her destina
tion at the last moment. She come in
late to luncheon and does not take
time to masticate her food. In the aft
ernoon she develops a headache, and
wonders why! Then she rushes to the
patent medicine bottle and takes a tab
let. At the end. of three months of this
sort of life, she gazes at herself in the
mirror and wonders how she came by
the heavy lines In her young face. Why
not get started ten minutes earlier and
ratrh the right car? Why not leave
the girls a few minutes sooner and -
nronerlv eat your luncheon? There
would be do need then for the tablets.
for either the young woman or her
mother. This model would take six
yards of cloth, or 12 yards of silk, but
could be made with less goods if the
pattern were cut shorter. Thie, how
ever, would detract from the long,
straight lines now so fashionable. This
model shows the use of the Persian or
Japanese banding and the heavy silk
tassels, matching the cloth In color. A
coat of this character should be lined,
and, I might add. that foulard silks,
which can now be purchased for a
song, are very appropriate linings for
a medium-weight wrap. But In select
ing a lining, be sure that you buy
nothing that would conflict In color
ing with your bright banding. If the
banding is not used, then the wrap
And let me say right here to this type
of girl the society girl that good
health is the greatest beautifier in the
world.
Let -the dear old lady, maybe .a grand
mother, who loves the little ones, get
away for her relaxation every day. It
will prolong her life and Increase her
usefulness. Let her go into a darkened
room where there Is quiet, and for just
a little time each day, let go of herself.
Let mind and body be perfectly limp.
Some faddists have said that we must
not laugh too much or we will develop
the dreaded "laughing line." I am not
a believer in this theory. Maybe the
laughing lines will come, but they will
not be half so bad as the wrinkles and
heavy crow's feet caused by a fretting,
fault-finding, carping disposition.
Laugh every time you can, and If the
laughing lines appear massage them
every night with a stimulating cream.
To all of us comes trouble much to
some of us but take life as easy as
you can. I knew a girl who wore for
two months a pair of corsets which
hurt her. She said she bought them in
a hurry and had to wear them. Can
you imagine the fretful face she ac
quired during those two months? And
it is really surprising how many women
Elderly Women
THERE Is always a complaint among
those who are more than 60 years old
that no one ever suggests fashions for
them, says the New York Times. All tha
good advice is given to the young and
the middle-aged.
Part of this is due to the belief that
there are no more old ladles. A woman
has to be quite old. Indeed, before she
wears a lace cap in the house and con
tents herself with an all-black ward
robe. Grandmothers have no Idea of dressing
as "old ladies." Most of them are not
more than 60 years okl, and at 50 these
days it is absurd to think of a woman
wearing a bonnet on the street and a
black cape around her shoulders.
She wears pretty much the same things
as a woman of 25 does. The Empire and
Princess frocks are used for her; so are
the sweeping hats heaped with plumes or
flowers. She. wears the white lacs veils
and carries a cretonne parasol.
The question of age governing dress Is
of less Importance now than It has been
for a century or two. Not long ago it
was even a question among women of 40
If thev were too old to wear white frocks.
Naturally this problem did not come up
could be outlined with a bias strip of
silk matching the lining or chiffon vel
vet, outlined with a tiny gilt soutache.
Figure D shows the newest wrap in
the form of a circular cape. Almost
without exception these capes are un
llned, and are made of broadcloth. The
collar, which forms a square yoke at
the back, should be of soft velvet In
a becoming shade, a tone barker than
the color of the broadcloth. If' the
cloth is full 64 inches wide. It would
require three and one-half yards. If
narrower, then four and one-half yards
would be necessary. Almost all the
smartly dressed girls at fashionable
resort are wearing capes of this mod
el, and it lends itself to all figures
equally well. MART DEAN.
a Beautifier
wear shoes which do not fit them. How
can you assume a peaceful expression
If you are In actual physical pain? You
cannot relax under such conditions.
The average girl In business stays
In bed until the last tick of the clock,
she does not have time to manicure her
nails, and hurriedly swallows her cof
fee. She arrives at the office a few
minutes late, dreading a reprimand.
At lunch she shops most of the time,
and Bpends five minutes out of the 60
In the process of eating. And she
blames business for her lines.
If it has been necessary for you to
hurry all day, and with an engagement
before you in the evening, perhaps the
best way to restore your tired nerves
and racked energy is a warm bath, fol
lowed by a cold spray. Changing the
temperature of the water from hot to
cold acts as a stimulant to the tired
body.
But relax If you can. Be it only for
ten minutes each day. It will help to
beautify you. Do not argue that it is
too much bother to undress that it
will muss your hair to lie down, etc
Believe me, it will save time spent in
the beauty parlor, and money paid to
the doctor.
KATHERINE MORTON.
Wearing White
among the class known as fashionable,
or those who followed the dictates and
conventions of a wide and broad social
world. But these people are In the
minority. It was the majority who were
worried about the all-white frock.
It might be well to announce at the
start that all white is the one color that
can be worn from the cradle to the grave.
It is as equally fit for a woman of SO as
a babe of one day old.
Nothing is prettier on an old lady than
this snowy whiteness In soft materials.
She should never wear anything else in
the house during Spring and Summer. It
also does for all warm weather outdoor
wear.
As for the mooted question of black,
there Is much to be said for and against
Its general usage by old ladies. It Is
well to have it as a background, but the
well dressed old ladies of today are going
In for gray, for lilac, for striped purple
and white, and for striped black and
white.
These are preferred to black for every
occasion. A silver gray costume Is con
sidered the correct one for a gala affair
held in the day or evening. In Summer,
muslins In gray, white, lavender and
striae axe all used In place of the black
i I silk mull, grenadine, and taffeta of other I I s. ' : I
days.
The models for these frocks do not
depart radically from those used for the
younger generation. If an old lady likes
dressy frocks she can have nothing pret
tier than the modified Empire, because
it hides her waist line, which Is always
the worst part of hsr figure.
The skirt that extends in well cnt lines
to just below the bust is becoming and
dignified. The bodice drapery above it
is usually in surplice effect, as the new
round effects are too youthful in their
lines. "
The sleeves are usually of three-quarter
length except where the arm has gTown
scrawny and demands a covering. Then
It Is loose, wrinkled and runs down well
over the hand. Around the bust is a wide
drapery of ribbon or silk on the bias,
finished with two loops and long ends
at the left front.
Whatever model is chosen, one should
avoid a well-defined waist line and the old
fashioned basque with Its pointed front
and back. Narrow shoulders should be
concealed with wide drapery, and all the
Empire and Dlrectolre effects of the day
should be used, because they conceal the
lack of good curves in the figure.
Because of her figure, she should not
wear a narrowly gored skirt without trim
ming. She should choose soft fabrics,
which she can put Into plaits and tucks
at the waist line.
A New Soft Material.
A new soft silk, something on the surah
order, with Oriental designs in very
Oriental colors, is called kimono Bilk.
Unllned Circular Cape.
Where it acquired It name It Is diffi
cult to say, but the fact remains that
the material Is desirable and extremely
effective for the new very much draped
dresses that have been so much talked
about.
In the light colors, too, It would be
perfectly fascinating for negligees, for it
is not transparent, as are India and China
silks, while at the same time it is soft
and pliable and falls in most attrac
tive lines. It Is Just the sort of material
that will appeal to any woman who
realizes what beauty may He In graceful
folds, and it will, therefore, be as much
admired as It deserves.
liifr
Etiquette:
rHAT not to wear" should have
a chapter to itself In the up-to-
date book of etiquette. The
tendency of the times is toward such
elaboration in dress that . the average
woman Is apt to err on the eide of over
dressing, rather than toward severity;
SMART
while the man who pretends to any. so
cial Hfe must give great care to the se
lection of his wardrobe for various occa
sions. This Summer a young woman was In
vited to Join a party of college girls, who.
duly chaperoned, were to be entertained
at a lodge In the woods, established by
a group of young men from a prominent
university. This girl had never made
such a trip and. In fact, knew little of
FOUND ON BAR
GAIN TABLE
JUST now the newspapers are full
of alluring advertisements of bar
gains, and the stores are laden with
short lengths and broken lots that are
certainly tempting to the feminine eye.
But once In the store it Is not an easy
matter to make a wise selection. Some
bargains are good investments, while
others are worthless.
The, silk counters are laden with
short lengths of silk at less than half
what they were in season. In buying
foulards and Summer silks, be wary of
the distinct patterns. For instance,
this year stripes have been most fash
ionable. You may find a dress-length
of striped silk and buy it for your best
dress next Summen When next Sum
mer comes, you find that stripes are out
of date, and everything Is figured. Solid
colors will always be worn, and they
are a safe choice. Figured and striped
silks will always make practical lin
ings for coats and wraps, and there is
never any set style of coloring or "fig
ures for house gowns. But be careful
what you buy for street .wear twelve
months hence.
Tan and white shoes are now being
sold for less than the cost of making,
but a shoe that does not fit is dear at
any price. If you can find your size
and a comfortable shoe, marked way
down, then by all means Invest in such
a bargain. But do not, because a shoe
Is marked $1.95, reduced from $6.00,
buy it if it is not a perfect fit.
Odd lengths of embroidery and stray
bits of lace are to be found at great
bargains, and the woman who has a
family will always find use for them.
In these days even a very little lace
can be used by cpmbining It with a
different make, so a good quality of
any up-to-date lace Is always a good
Investment. Certainly nothing will
lend more distinction to a gown than
a touch of really good lace. The em
broidery, edging and Insertion, can be
used for many purposes underclothes,
lingerie waists, fancy aprons and white
dresses next Summer.
Do not buy a hat late this season,
hoping to start out with it next spring.
I know of nothing which Is more change
able than styles in millinery. Unless you
wish to put the hat on at once and wear
it late into the fall, do not buy bargain
millinery. You will find that next spring
your hat will be different from all the
new ones, and your money will be badly
invested. MARY DEAN.
Keeping Zinc Clean.
Zinc is one of the moat difficult xntnlm
Good Form
college customs, and instead of frankly
admitting her ignorance or tactfully put
ting out a "feeler" as to the wardrobe
needed, attempted to solve the problem
for herself. Her one thought was to be
pretty and attractive to the young men
whose camp she was to grace, and as
pink and blue were both becoming colore,
JUMPER JACKET.
she picked out several gowns in these
delicate tints.
The first stage of the trip was made on
a lake steamer, lasting overnight. The
young woman of inexperience appeared
at the wharf, to the horror of her chape
ron, in a pale pink lawn, trimmed in lace,
a hat loaded with roses and lace, and for
the finishing touch elbow sleeves and long
white silk gloves. The girls who knew
what's what m dress wore coat and skirt
to keep brisht and stainless. It can be
cleaned with sulphuric acid, but the
greatest care must be observed In using
this strong chemical. If you will do
the work yourself, or have It done under
your personal supervision, you will find
this method satisfactory,:
Have the zinc well washed with soap
and hot water, that no trace of grease
may remain on it: wipe It very dry.
Make two mops by fastening pieces of
cloth on two sticks; have on hand two
pails of clean, cold water and a clean
ing cloth.
Put into a stoneware bowl one quart of
cold water and very gradually add three
ounces of sulphuric acid.
Be very careful not to allow the acid
to touch your hands. Dip one of the
mops in the acid water and swab the
zinc; in a few seconds It will begin to
look bright and clear.
When this occurs wash with the second
mop and clear water; follow this with a
good washing with a cloth and water to
which household ammonia has been added
in the proportion of a tablespoonful of
ammonia to a quart of water. Rub the
cleansed surface with dry whiting. Be
sure to add the acid to the water and
not the water to the acid.
THE WEARING
OF JEWELS
IT TAKES instinctive good taste to
know when Jewelry Is allowable and
in good form. Very often, however,
women, knowing perfectly well that
they are violating the law of good
taste, persist in the promiscuous wear
ing of jewels at all times of the day.
Jewels, excepting rings, should never
be worn except when the costume is at
least semi-dressy. Necklaces and brace
lets are most distinctly out of place
with a strictly tailored gown, although
rings are allowable.
It is conservative to say that orna
ments should never be worn before
12 o'clock midday, and it" Is better to
avoid them until after 3 o'clock In the
afternoon. One bangle, or several
plain ones, a few rings and a watch
chain may be worn at any time, no
matter how early the hour.
Just as men always wait until after
6 before wearing evening dress. Just
as no one would ever wear a watch
with a bail gown, these little laws of
fastidious fashion are quite universal
ly obeyed.
Girls before 18 should never wear
precious stones, unless It be one hand
some ring. When school days are over
and long skirt3 are adopted they may
wear what jewels they see fit, provid
ing they do not deck themselves In a
consriicuous way.
in Clothes
suits and matching blouses in either
cloth or rough silk or very heavy linen
with severely trimmed hats, long sleeves
and smart ties peeping below their mod
erately short skirts.
When they reached the camp, the pretty
girl of pink and blue lawns was in agony,
not only because she was really cold and
had to "borrow a friendly sweater when it
turned rainy, but because she knew she
was foolishly dressed. She had dressed
for a garden party or a picnic, when she
was going on a Journey.
Another young woman was invited by
the head of her department In the office
to dine at the letter's home. She wore
an extra fancy waist to the office that
morning, "cleaned up" at the office lava
tory and cheerfully wended her way to
her chief's home. When she got there
she was horrified to find herself the only
woman in the dining-room clad in tailored
skirt and shirtwaist. Her hostess and
family, being entirely unprepared for her
appearance In office garb, had;, as usual
changed from street to simple house
dresses, generally with necks slightly cut
out to show, a bit of lace or a filmy
tucker. And the girl could not offer the
excuse that she had come straight from
the office, for her chief, dismissed at tha
same hour, had managed to make tha
change from business to house toilet.
A third young woman who had attract
ed the attention of her employer's wife
by her pretty face and pleasant manners,
was. Invited to assist at a charity-entertainment
the latter was giving. She ap
peared at the afternoon function in what
was plainly a discarded party dress much
marked by ice cream and coffee stain?,
with the neck cut low, and rather soiled
white gloves. The hostess was not only
embarrassed at the untidy appearance of
her protege, but felt disappointed that
a girl in whom she had taken an interest
showed such bad taste as to appear in
a low-necked frock before 6 o'clock.
Here are some hard and fast rules about
dress for both men and women:
No man appears in evening clothes
before 6 P. M., unless he is bound for
dinner at some distance, when he
hides his evening attire with an over
coat. No man wears a black tie with full
evening clothes, which Includes the
swallow tall coat. The black tie Is
permissible only with the tuxedo or
dinner jacket worn at stag functions.
The correct calling suit for a man at
an afternoon tea or for general Sun
day calling Is gray- trousers, fancy
waistcoat, generally with a touch of
gray, white and black; white shirt,
gray ascot or puff tie, gray gloves and
high silk hat. Full dress is NOT worn
at a noon or afternoon wedding.
What is commonly known as a lea
gown Is not worn by a woman to re
ceive callers in the afternoon. She has
what is known as a house gown. The
American tea gown or negligee is suit
able only for boudoir, bedroom or
morning-room wear en fainille.
Gaily colored shoes and stockings
should never be worn In the street.
Pink kid slippers are for the house
only. Going to and from a party
where they are to be worn, they should
be carried in a pretty little bag. Even
the fashion of wearing colored stock
ings with black slippers is bad form
for general street wear.. They should
be confined to the house, the porch er
the grounds immediately about your home.
"Dutch" neck blouses are not for
wear at business. Neither are they to
be worn with a strictly tailored suit.'
They are for afternoon, house or even
ing gowns. Lingerie dresses with
sleeves above the elbow Joint, and
without collars, are certainly not Tor
street wear nor for shopping.
The girl in mourning who wears
crepe on her hat cannot wear a black
waist trimmed with lace. A certain
style of silk applique Is used for trim
ming in mourning, but as a rule plain
tucked net,- bias folds of chiffon and
other plain trimmings are better form. ,
Black lace' with elaborate patterns is
never good form in mourning.
It Is extremely bad form to wear a
soft crushed silk girdle. with plain tai
lored shlrtwalt. With such a blouse
you should wear a stitched belt match
ing your skirt, or a plain leather belt
not over an inch and a half in width.
But the leather belt should not be
worn with a soft, fancy blouse. With
such a blouse wear the silk girdle.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
FROM COUNTRY
RECIPE BOOK
HAVE you ever gone to a Summer
boarding-house whose advertise
ments featured "home cooking."
and really gotten it? Then, truly, you
have realized one of the real Joys of a
Summer vacation'. Here are some reelpea
gathered by a woman who .found just
such a boarding place this Summer; and
she went out into the big, many-win- i
dowed kitchen of her landlady to gather
them.
Bread Savory A delicate breakfast or
taa dish. For five persons have ready '
two tablespoons of butter, half an onion,
a cup of dry bread cut In dice, five fresh
eggs and salt and pepper to taste. Melt
the butter In a skillet, slice the onion
very thin and brown lightly in the but
ter. Add the diced bread, shake until a
light brown, then cover and allow bread,
onion and butter to simmer together 15
minutes. Beat the eergs, yolks and whites
together, stir lightly Into the mixture In
the pan. toss with a fork, add pepper and
salt, and when the eggs are set serve at
once, very hot. If you prefer the diced
bread crisp instead of soft, do not sim
mer, but fry to a golden-brown and add
the eggs at once.
Prune Pudding Wash and soak ona
pound of good California prunes over
night. In the morning stew them until
tender in the water in which they soaked,
which should be quite cleur If the prunes
were properly washed. When tender,
drain off the water, stone and chop the
prunes. Beat the whites of four eggs
very stiff, add gradually one cup of su-.
gar, beating all the while, and finally the
chopped prunes. Pour at once into a
deep baking dish, bake 20 minutes and
serve cold with whipped cream sweetened
and flavored with a little sherry wine.
Orange Sponge One-third box of gela
tine, one-third cup of cold water, one
third cup of boiling water, one cup of
sugar, one tablespoon strained lemon
juice, one cup strained orange Juice,
whites of three eggs, one cup of whipped
cream. Soak the gelatine over-night in
the cold water. In the mornlnr dissolve
in the boiling water and add the sugar,
lemon and grange Juices. Set the mix
ture in a bowl Immersed In cold water
or in cracked Ice to chill. Before It be
gins to set add the beaten whites of the
egg and the whipped cream. Have a
mould lined with lady fingers or sponge
cake and pour the gelatine cream In the
center.
Paraguay has an agreeable and healthful
climate, notwithstanding about mix months
of very hot weather, and the health oC it
people la better on an average than that
al tha inhabitants of tha coaat countries.