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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 12, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND. JTTLT 12, 1908. i 1 r i 1 1 1 . i ; ' - Some Practical Fashions for Porch Work NO. 1. TUCKED FILET NET WITH EMBROIDERED GAUZE AND CLUNY INSERTION. . Vacation Complexion Aids "What shall I do during my vacation?" Hundreds of girls are asking that ques tion, and this year it Is an exceptionally Important question. Scores of girls ac customed to spending two weeks, a month or even more at some pleasure resort, representing a round of Summer-girl pleasures. And themselves city-bound this year. These are the girls who are won dering what to do with their days of Idleness, and In the ease of the self-supporting girl, the idleness. Is often en forced, not desired. For this reason It is Just as well for health and spirits If the girl finds something which will occupy her time. I ran suggest no better means of pass ir; the time than systematic attention to the personal appearance. So many girls say that they have not time to follow di rections for improving their appearance. That excuse fades with vacation days. If there is any efficacy In a remedy or a system of training, this Is the time to prove it. Any girl during the vacation can give two or three hours a day to per sonal rare, and in a fortnight she will see results. For instance, take the girl with a blotchy skin. Her face Is' chalky, with a sprinkling of Irregular, purplish blotches. She uses powder, cosmetics, lotions and becomes steadily worse Instead of better. Blotches of tills sort represent a defec tive circulation. She' needs something to excite the circulation, particularly exer cise. I have an excellent regime of sim ple exercises to induce circulation which I will he pleased to furnish upon receipt of self-addressed and stamped envelope, but as they have appeared before in this column, I will not repeat them here. These exercises should be practiced at least three times a day. The action of the tiny blood vessels nearest the 6kin should then: be stimu lated by the alternate use of very hot and very cold applications. Have at hand two basins, one tilled with water as hot as you can bear In wringing out the cloths you use, and the other with very cold water. You can even have a piece of Ice in the latter. Now have 6oft old tow els or cloths, fold one smoothly and dip Into the very hot water, apply to the face as hot as you can bear it and hold there until the cloth cools. Then wring out a second cloth in the very cold water and apply that. Continue tills treatment for ten minutes, pat the face dry with a piece of soft toweling or linen and massage with cold cream. No Internal remedies are needed unless the action of the digestive organs Is sluggish, when the following ti paste can be taken with excellent results: Half a pound each of tine raisins and figs, one ounce of senna leaves: chop or grind these fine and simmer for 2D minutes in an enamel stew pan with a cup of sugar nd the same of boiling water. Line a baking pan with oiled paper and when the mixture has cooked, pour out to cool. At first, take a piece an inch square every night before retiring, and reduce the quantity as conditions Improve. When the blotched appearance Is on the nose only, a bad condition of the diges tion rather than circulation exists, and this requires a slightly different treat ment. A different set of exercises is re quired, so if you are writing for a system of exercises, please state distinctly wheth er you desire those of poor circulation or for indigestion. The exercises which will . relieve Indigestion or mal-assimilaUoa of food strike first at the liver. One of the best cures for a. red nose la simple boiling water. When the pain In the stomach Is acute end the nose to ex tremely discolored, try aoda and hot w'ater. Dissolve a 'half teaspoonful of sulphate of soda In a half tumbler of hot water and drink an hour before breakfast. Repeat this dose In SO minutes, and eat a light breakfast, which Includes fruit and toast, never hot breads. Try the hot milk bato for the afflicted nose, using It twice a day. Bring sweet milk to a scald but do not boil. Dip Into It a piece of soft old linen or antiseptic gauze, having the milk as hot as you can bear It. Let the cloth remain on the nose until quite cool, but do not dry the skin on removing the cloth. Allow the milk to dry Into the pores. This is more effective than plain hot water applications. If your ease proves extremely stubborn, apply this lotion: Sulphate of potassium, 1 gramme. Tincture of benvoin, 1 gramme. Rose-water, 60 grammes. Distilled water, 60 grammes. Apply the lotion with -antl-eeptio gauze several times during the day. Never ap ply cold water to a nose thus afflicted, but use either hot milk, water or the above lotion. For a scaly, dry skin, massage night and morning with a high-grade of cold OTeam. and r&ht here I want to say that the girl who uses cold cream as frequent ly as this, should be very sure of what it contains. Do not Judge your cream by the prettiness of the label on the jar. If you have the time, make your own cream. It will cost as much as the proprietary ar ticle, perhaps more, but you will have the satisfaction of knowing that you are using neither lanolin, which grows hair, or any animal fat, which will coarsen the sklix I urge every vacation girl to give up a morning to making up a quantity of the famous Kentucky cream as follows: Rosewater, four ounces; almond oil, four ounces: spermaceti, one ounce: white wax, one ounce. KATHLEEN MORTON. One-Plcco Dress. Sometimes when a one-piece dress Is bought at the store or at a cos tume house It is very difficult to wear It until after it is washed, for the blouse is too full and the skirt is per haps too long:. This, of course, is as it should be, for It will undoubtedly shrink when laundered, so if It exact ly fitted when bought the investment would turn out useless. However, it Is perfectly easy to arrange the dress so that it may be worn during the Interim. Take a tuck In the blouse, just above the waist line, so that the extra material will hang; on the wrong side and the stitching will coincide with that at the top of the tucks or Insertion which probably outline the waist. To shorten the skirt a tuck may be taken either on the under side of the hom or under the fold with which many skirt are trimmed. The hand run tuck placed on the wrong side will never be seen If It is discreetly ar ranged, for there Is nothing to call at tention to it. Of course, before the dress Is sent to the wash the tucks should be carefully removed, and In doing this be sure that no threads of the material are cut. Another Glimpse of Father. Birmingham Age-Herald. Rather took his coat oft said, Til do that Job today. Wo need a chicken cook, you bet; Our hens all get away." He found the hammer and the nails And then he got the saw. And went to work while all the tads Looked on in silent awe. Somehow, the boards seemed rather tough And fate was most .unkind; While father puffed and puffed and puffed His trousers split behind. At last he got some short lengths cut And while h mopped his face Bo studied out the proper way To put the boards In place. He nallod a strip across a strip. Then he made a slight mlscue: The hammer came down on his thumb And mashed It black and blue. Then father used tome language that Was never heard before. And mother took the babes Inside And softly-closed the door. The woman who is planning to spend any length of time at a Summer resort. In a suburban town or on a farm, during the dog-days, will find it to her advan tage to take with her material for frocks or blouses to be worn when she returns to town and particularly such as demand handwork. While vacations are essen tially for rest and recreation, the aver age American woman Is too energetic by nature to extract real pleasure from rest In large doses. She is happier if she as complishes some practical thing each day. and two hours a day spent at nee31e work on a fortnight's vacation will bring forth charming results. As for the woman who is stopping In town to keep her husband company, save for their two weeks' vacation, she has the opportunity of her life to make up the" sort of fripperies which will drive her women friends quite wild with envy when the social season reopens. The prevailing fabrics and modes for fancy blouses and frocks, for afternoon and evening wear require such marvelous handstitchery that the woman of average purse cannot afford to employ an up-to-date dressmaker for the manufacture. But If she knows how to handle that first aid to the home-sewer, a reliable pattern, she can enhance the simplest design by such exquisite stitchery as to rival the-work of an expert, foreign or domestic. The modern sartorial, triumph Is a matter of Infinite pains and exquisite stitchery rather than extravagance in fabric. An inexpensive batiste or chiffon or silk net, correctly made is more desirable than .a stately brocade or satin which will stand alone. In fact, the very filmy, clinging fabric which seems practically without body, overlaid with fine stitchery in which not a line of machine work shows, is the correct thing for present day needs.. - There Is much talk about simple ef fects in 1908 frocks, but the simplicity Is hard to find. To be sure, the lines themselves are simple enough. Skirts to all intents are plain, often absolutely devoid of trimming, but the blouses and wraps make up for the- severity of the skirts. Neither is there any simplicity to be noted In the. trimmings used, which are trimmings upon trimmings, embrold-' ery upon lace, or even lace upon lace. For instance, at a smart shop the fol lowing frock was turned out: The foun dation fabric was an inexpensive all over point do Paris lace. The skirt of the princess design was cut in seven gores, connected by what, looked like How to Take AN ungallant German professor, one Gieler, of Munich, announces that after much research and study of the subject he finds that the modern woman's foot is steadly gaining in size and that in time there will be little difference In proportion between the feet of women and men. English wo men, he adds, have the largest feet owing to their love for walking and regular outdoor exercises. A woman chiropodist who attends ex clusively to the feet of those of her own sex, and has made a great success of the practice of massage in perfect ing the contour of the feet says, that bo far as the feet of the New York wo men are concerned, the professor is wrong. "I have done this sort of work for more than 15 years," she said, "in Paris and London, at Palm Beach and New port, as well as In New York, and I have been able to study the subject thoroughly. "It is true that tight shoes, are not in fashion now and women are not pinching their feet as they used to into the smaller sizes. For that rea son it Is possible that manufacturers may not be making so many number ones and twos in women's boots as they used. "It is well known that shoemakers marked their goods in length and width below the actual size in order to cater to the old-time demand for small shoes. Women a dozen years ago ab solutely refused to wear boots that were numbered high, and a five was considered a dreadfully large foot. - "But the pinched-in foot, like rouge and tight corsets, went completely out of , fashion: The woman with an ab surdly tight shoe looks today as badly gotten up as the one with a tiny waist and large hips. Women's dress has be come not only more sanitary and sensi ble but more artistic, and nothing has improved more than footwear ready made shoes I mean. "Ten or fifteen years ago the feet of women were generally bad to look upon when bare. They were deformed through small shoes, the toes crowded on top of one another and sometimes bent under. There were corns and en larged joints, and even bones were dis placed through walking in tight "shoes. "The athletic fad which made women let out their daughters' waists as they never had their own drove away a host of evils, and among those evils went the tight shoe. Every American wo man today, from the heiress to the fac tory girl, wears shoes sufficiently big. "This can be told at once in the im proved gait, of women pedestrians along Fifth avenue and in the shop ping districts. They no longer mince along, and although American women never seem able to conquer their tend ency to walk too quickly and' ener getically for their beauty, they walk far better than they did even six years ago, when the masculine football -walk was a fad with athletic girls. "Physical science has taught women how to walk and how to care for their feet just as thoroughly as for their hands. They know that short shoes are ruinous to the shape of a foot. "One of the first lessons in foot re form was that a small, light shoe does not hide but rather accents the faults of a badly shaped foot. Pointed toed shoes are also Inartistic and produce all kinds of trouble with the feet. "The shoes must fit properly, and if the foot is short and thick through it Is probably In accord with the dimen sions of the body. A short, sturdy wo man should have a short, wide foot if she is built on the proper plan. It is far more beautiful to have feet in har mony with the rest of the body than to have small feet which do not match. "Some years ago I worked In an es tablishment where a separate charge was made for every foot blemish that was treated. Women and young girls would come there whose bills would mount up to five or six dollars a treat ment, so many were the defects. "Now the feet of women are In bet ter condition. American women have not the slender exquisite feet of the Italians or the Spanish women. An American woman finds it hard to wear a Paris shoe, which Is so narrow across the instep that one might think a foot built on that plan would be completely out of proportion. But it is in pro portion to the French woman's general build. "The Arabian women and those of i Epaln have beautifully arched feet, and Mexican drawn work, done In delicate blue soutache braid, and cotton braid at that. The bottom of the skirt was fin ished with a border of delicate blue mes sallne. matching the blue braid and cut In a simplified Greek key pattern. The waist line was marked by very fine hand- run vertical tucks, and the upper part of the rrock was a mass of point de venlse appliqued on the point de Paris and con nected by the same simulation of Mexican drawn work in-blue braid which appeared on the skirt. The collar was finished with bias folds of the pale blue messaline and the elbow sleeves were finished with cuffs of lace, showing the key pattern In bias messaline folds. The work was rep resented by the hand-appllqueing of the overlaying lace and the braid work. Made at home, the gown would been most in expensive. Done at the shop it costs enough to keep an orphan child in, a charity Institution for a year. One of the needlework fads which gives most pleasing effects is that of touching up laces with a bit of delicately tinted hand embroidery. An Inexpensive Imitation cluny or filet lace can be made charming by embroidering over part of the pattern In color or doing a stamped pattern upon the lace. Hours can be spent in simply hand-running tucks, smocking or rose-shlrrlng fine nets, chif fon, marquisette and similar soft mate rials for house frocks. Nothing so cer tainly stamps a frock as cheap, like ma chine stitchery on a soft, clinging fabric Another feature of up-to-date sewing Is the application of lace medallions, or tle combination of embroidered me dallions with lace insertions. Done by machine, this always has a factory look, even if made at home. Almost invariably the stitchery will draw and prevent the perfect adjustment of skirt or bertha or sleeve. Today we are showing five blouse designs which lend themselves admira bly to handwork, and which can be worked out at odd moments on the porch or under a shadowy tree. Blouses are given in preference to princess de signs, because large-patterned gar ments are hard to handle away from the family Eewing-room. Design No. 1 shows a remnant of double-width filet net measuring 1 yards which was picked up on a bar gain counter and combined with anoth er remnant of embroidered silk gauze, a bolt of fine, narrow imitation cluny lace and four yards of matching edg ing. .The lower section of the waist and the sleeves show the net hand run Care of the Feet in Summer this In spite if the high heel which the Spanish slipper always has. The foot seems to be very much a matter of type. Some of the Irish peasant girls whom you see barefoot in their native No. 2. Ecru Princess Net With Lace Brettelles. fields have beautiful feet, large and strong and white. "Many women wear sandals without stockings for a few hours a day in their dressing rooms. It gives air to the feet and allows the muscles to be come pliable, for it must be remem bered that the foot Is used a great deal and is laced and buttoned in snug ly most of the time. "Use does not make the foot more beautiful any more than it does the No.-3. Handkerchief Llnnen With Convent Embroidery. hand. When a woman has an Illness which keeps the weight of her body from her feet for a few weeks she will find that her ankles have grown slen der, her feet blue-veined and white and nearly every imperfection will have disappeared. "On the other hand, women -who use their feet much grow fiatfooted and sometimes develop varicose veins. Well kept shoes, rested every day or two that is. changed for others and kept on trees In the interim will do much to in fine tucks, and these strips Joined by cluny insertion. The half-yard rem nant of embroidered gauze is employed to form a scalloped yoke, outlined with the edging, not gathered, but finely pleated. Every stitch save the join ing of blouse and sleeves is done by hand, and the effect is of a very dain tily wrought garment. No. 2 is a two-piece blouse, the bre telle section being made solidly of finely pleated lace, put on by hand. The fronts of the blouse are done in hand-run tucks to the bust line, and the center Is run with tiny plaitings of the lace to match the bretelles. The illustration was drawn from an ecru princess net, showing a tiny flower pattern, and trimmed with inexpensive Val. lace. In Fig. 3 will be found a fetching combination of hand-run tucks, em broidered medallions and French Val. lace. The fabric is handkerchief linen, the embroidery is done in convent stitchery, and the French Val. is ex tremely fine And silky looking. A heavy net with medallions of Irish crochet or point de Venlse or English eyelet work, with cluny lace, would be fully as effective. Or, if desired, the medal lions can be done In delicate colors, pink, blue, lavender or a touch of gilt. Some charming noveltleo in medallions can now be picked up on bargain counters, and three of these In color effects are sufficient for a net or lace waist. The blouse displayed In Fig. 4 sug gests an excellent use of short lengths In lace or embroidery. In the model a very soft messaline in silvery gray wae used, the tucks below the shaped yoke being run by hand. The yoke was made from strips of novelty lace. In cluny design, with the flowers worked over In silvery grays, blues and green, joined by German Val. Insertion. It will be noted that the Insertion em ployed in the yoke runs down the up per portions of the sleeves, a very good effect. The last blouse. No. 6, shows the popular scalloped yoke. In this in stance done In fine silk net In com bination with Ivory white messaline and baby Irish edging. A very fine soutache braid in white and gold was woven through the narrow lace pleat ings, and the yoke could be made more ornate by appllquelng medallions of gold thread or gold lace on the tucked net. MART DEAN. keep the feet in good condition and will last much longer than if worn day after day. "To keep the feet in good condition they must be washed with good soap, warm water and a brush each day. The cold dip in the morning Is not suf ficient for the feet. - Pumice should be used on any callosity. 'Salt in the foot bath is excellent. "Massage is a boon for the feet, al though its virtues have been of com paratively recent discovery. The foot must be softly rubbed between the two hands of the operator, a lubricating I saive Deing used. Olive oil and alco hol are good. "A rough towel should be used to dry briskly and a good talcum powder sifted on carefully. Stockings should always oe changed with the boots, and this change should be made at least twice in the day. Even the tired busi ness girl can put on fresh stockings and slippers when she comes in after the day. It will rest her feet and keep them in good condition. "The feet have a tremendous effect on the mental condition and the gen eral health. A painful foot will change the most cheerful person into a bear. "Neither corns nor ingrowing nails are to be found on the younger genera tion of women to any extent. The 20th century foot is a decided improvement on' the old-fashioned one, whatever merits otherwise the old-time girl may have had over her latter-day sister. "Women look after their feet now to prevent trouble rather than to cure it. A well cared for foot will always keep well barring accident. A neglected foot, on the contrary, is almost im possible to cure, although it can be re lieved of course. "Low shoes are supposed to spread the ankles, but the high, laced and buttoned boots often impede circula tion in the leg. ,Laced shoes are a great evil when they are laced too tightly. They stiffen the ankle instead of supporting it. "The low shoe is better because it admits good circulation and action. It also permits the air to get at the foot. The pumps fashionable now are difficult to keep on and they Injure the heels, but otherwise they are hygienic Air is as necessary for the feet as for the rest of the body. "And Paris, the home of the French heel, does not boast pretty feet among the women, except that they are slen der in the extreme and shapely when shod. The Paris woman drives more than she walks and the delightfully clean pavements permit her to wear colored boots, white and pink and blue, when she strolls, but there is not much natural grace of beauty in the bare French foot. "One has only to observe the feet of the French dancers that eome here and make great successes with their danc ing but never with the beauty of their feet. Dancing, indeed, produces dread ful feet as a rule. "DuMaurler's book Trilby' woke peo ple up on the subject of the foot and its beauty. He rapsodied over It as a marvelous framework covered with ex quisitely tinted flesh and large in pro portion to the height of the woman. His heroine had large feet but they be came very famous. She was an Eng lish girl. "The English girls all have rather long, narrow feet, not at all pretty, but they walk better than women of other nationalities. They never hurry or take short steps. They wear rather fancy shoes in the street, but then they use hansoms a great deal on their way to and from the shopping districts. "We hear a great deal about the English women being great walkers, and no doubt they are in the country. But they do not walk at all In London, that Is, smart women do not, except through the fashionable shopping streets, with their carriages following them. Hyde Park on Sunday morning is the extent of the London woman's walk. "For this reason they do not go In for the short trotter dresses that dis tinguish the American girl abroad, showing her trim feet with the fresh est of ties. The American woman is vain of her feet and very Justly so. but she no longer attaches any Importance to making them seem small, so long as they are well shod and trim and shapely. The passenger traffic through the Slm plon tunnel has fluctuated greatly and was largest in August. 106, the third month of Us operation. In that month 42,622 pas sengers were carried through the tunneL NO. 8. IVORY WHITE MESSALINE TUCKED SILK NET AND BABY IRISH LACE. Timely Tips for the Traveler - Every girl starting on her vacation trip yearns to possess the stamp of an experi enced traveler, and in her desire to ac complish this, she often becomes self-conscious and awkward. The girl who is ladylike and well-bred In her own home or in her office life needs no hints as to conduct when abroad or on her vacation. It Is the girl who has led a narrow, selfish life, the girl who has boasted that little things didn't mat ter so much If you had pretty clothes who needs travel hints. Courtesy to every one you meet is the secret of social success during your vaca tion, and this Includes the porter on the train, the hall boy or waiter at the hotel, as well as the best dressed and most in fluential guest. I have known an inexpe rienced girl on her first Journey to tip a porter or maid on a fast train a dollar for a 24-hour trip and then exact silly little services in such an overbearing fashion, that the railway employes actually showed his or her contempt. Always be courteous to help In a hotel. A "good morning" spoken with Just the right Inflection, which draws the line be tween courtesy and familiarity will stamp you as "experienced" in the eyes of every servant attached to the hotel. On the other hand, never. allow a hotel servant to Impose upon you. They are quick to see that you are not accustomed to service and become lax. If your meal is not properly served, do not complain loudly or fretfully, so as to attract at tention, but at the conclusion of the meal go quietly to the head waiter and file your complaint. If the chambermaid neglects your room, speak to her quietly but firmly as you would to a servant In your own home. Do not tip her for In competency. The cure Is Ineffective. Tip the help weekly If you are making a long stay in a hotel or boarding-house. Do not tip spasmodically. It Is a waste of money. Table manners vary little from year to year, the exception being when new sil C Ml rT. oensiDie oins This Is the season of the year when many of our friends are taking either short or long trips, and a useful little gift as an occasional remembrance of friends left at home Is always welcome to the globe trotter. Often the question arises: "What shall I give her or him?" and I hope these few sug gestions will be of service to readers. If you can afford it, there is nothing of more general use than a little fold ing pocket camera, and this makes a splendid gift for either a man or a woman. A reliable make Is not cheap and no other kind should be - purchased. This gift occupies little room, and brings great Joy not only to the traveler himself, but to those at home when they see the pictures on his return. In all stationery shops can be found a little writing pad under various names. Sometimes It is called "A Line a Day," then again "A Hasty Line," but it con sists of a writing pad of medium di mensions, which can be folded up to form an envelope, sealed and mailed in a mo ment. -With this pad should go an lndelll ble pencil. They are Invaluable to the traveler with little spare time on his hands. ' If your departing friends are taking a long trip a little pillow not over 12 by 8 inches is of the greatest comfort. This pillow should be made of hair and covered with pink sateen. Then there should be three little white linen pillow covers to fit It. These slips can be the simplest hemmed affairs, or can be hem stitched and have the owner's initials embroidered on them. Hair pillows are always cooler in Summer, and linen cov ering Is also cooling to the skin. These verware la introduced. For Instance, Just now It is a fad to eat ice cream, when firmly frozen, with a fork Instead of a spoon. The correct lee cream fork Is small, with three prongs and rather round. If the fork appears with the froz en dessert, do not make the mistake of asking for a spoon. , The question often arises as to what la to be done with the napkin In a hotel or boarding-house when a guest remains for a week or more. .Never fold your napkin when away from home. In a first-class establishment you will have a fresh nap kin with every meal; If you do not, then let the maid fold the napkin. Just lay it lightly beside your plate at the conclusion of the meal. If you are the mother of children, do not expect that in a first-class hotel or even boarding-house they will be permit ted to dine at the general table, make in quiries concerning this, and arrange tor their care in the children's dining-room. And never allow them to become a nui sance to the proprietor of the hotel. He Is running a hostelry, not a nursery, and he has a right to resent Injury to hi property by children who are not con trolled by the parents, even if the latter pay the good round sum generally charged for children. In making acquaintances at a Summer resort, bear In mind that it is the priv ilege of age to address youth every time. The elder woman should speak to the younger first. If a. man, sitting at table, shows you some trifling courtesy, and in return for, your thanks, courteously spoken, follows up his advantage, you can permit this. Presumably your fellow guests are re spectable and It Is an easy matter for you to ascertain the standing of the man In the hotel. It Is equally easy for you to be courteous to him without becoming too friendly. An exchange of table and porch courtesies does not involve your accept ing his Invitations to drive, sail, bathe, etc. PRUDENCE STANDISH. f -TV 1 ror 1 raveiers pillows are used at the back of the head in the daytime, and to sleep on at night; many people objecting to putting their heads immediately next to the linen in sleepers and against heavy plush cov ering in the day coaches. What are known as "Necessity Hold ers'' form another practical gift. These are made of cretonne or other heavy material and fit the top of the tray of the trunk. A plain piece of cretonne Is chosen and on it are sewed many little pockets of various sizes small ones for hairpins larger ones for dressing combs and brushes, a square one' that would hold sewing materials, etc. These little pockets should be bound and have tapes to fasten them down. The entire "Hold er" is put on the tray cover with thumb tacks. If the tray has no cover, then It Is fastened to the inside of the trunk cover. Another gift -that any woman traveler will welcome with open arms is a three yard long veil of brown chiffon cloth not chiffon, but chiffon cloth. This will be large enough to cover up her hat and to protect her throat from occasional drafts. These chiffon cloth veils wash beautifully with a pure white soap and lukewarm water, and should be Ironed out with care as you would a fine hand kerchief. A bottle of good toilet water makes an acceptable gift to either man or woman. In selecting this you should avoid all the pungent sweet odors like . Jockey Club and tube rose, selecting in their stead such spicy odors as lemon verbena, etc. I do not mean extracts, but the simple toilet waters which are very freshing as a face wash.