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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 21, 1908)
6 FIGURE B. Summer Frills for the Little Maids HE) mother who devotes much time and thought to the gowning of her small daughters generally finds that her Summer sewing is done on the In stallment plan. While one siege with the seamstress will supply sufficient raiment for cold weather, Summer dressmaking is bent accomplished in two lots. The first includes what is absolutely essential to meet the needs of e Hrsl warm days in late Hay and early June, rather stout little frocks for the last days of school. The second represents strong play dresses and the really, truly Summer frocks, all transparent Stuffs with lace and open embroidery for trimming. The latter sewing usually runs quite well into June, if not July, and in this the mother is wise because the shop counters are overflowing with bargains and short lengths in fabrics and trim mings which save a pretty penny. Despite tlie evident effort at simplicity, 'this Is by no means an economical Sum mcr for the mother of small daughters. In the first place, it is a season of colors, and colors in wash fabrics are never economical. Moreover,, it is a ribbon sea sonand ribbons wilt under heat, sun and dampness. In regard to colors, they are shown in nil the fabrics for all sorts of usage. For the past few years, all the afternoon and Sunday frockx for little girls have been done in white. This season, pale blue, pink, cerise, rose, scarlet and brown, which, by the way, are mostly warm shades, are much used in all wash fab rics. The lawns, batistes, organdies and other transparent fabrics are shown in the paler tints, hut in ginghams, cham breys. linens and galatea cloth, you will lind the most vivid of colorings. And when a dress "is of white goods or the pop ular ecru or natural tone. It Is bright ened by ribbon or belt of brighter hue. While much is said and written about the ribbon sets, which Include broad sashes and enormous hair bows, other ribbon devices are also used in great pro fusion. Many restless girlies cannot wear a sash tied round the waist. It is always sagging down to the knees or coming un tied. Such wee maids have the ribbon garnitures literally sewed to their gowns. Sometimes the narrow ribbon Is run through beading- of fancy design and fin ished with soft knots or what might best be described as a shower bow. A very pretty design of this sort waa rioted at a recent gathering of smartly dressed children In a private school. The little dress was cut with a short waist, suggesting Empire lines, but there was no confining belt. Instead, the trim ming and ribbon garnitures were applied on vertical lines. The fabric was a. soft handkerchief linen and the trimming a fine batiste embroidery, with a sharply pointed edge. This was run in strips from the neck and shoulders to a point just above the child's natural waist line, with the points meeting and leaving a diamond-shaped opening in the center. Under this joining of fine embroidery ran soft strips of white ribbon, each strip finished with soft loops and long ends. The effect of the floating ends of white ribbon was extremely pretty on this an gular little girl, who would have made a sorry figure, indeed. In a sash. Some of the new sashes are figured or splashed with flowers or done In checks, but the most effective ribbons for the small child are those in delicate solid colors. Another article of raiment in which colors are shown is tlyr. stocking. For little tots the shops are showing white socks, witli the upper part done in fine KKESTPHPEtt pink and white or blue and white checks. Sometimes these are worn with white shoes or slippers and sometimes with slip pers to match the color, pink or blue, but this Is only for dressy occasion. Brown ties and stockings are very pop ular for every day; black patent leather slippers and ties are for dress, and, In deed, very few high shoes are shown for girlies except for rainy-day use, traveling, etc. The new hat shapes, like those offered for older sirls, have the drooping brims, which are far more becoming to the av erage juvenile face than the sharply up turned or roll brim. Floral wreaths are used on best hats. and. plain ribbons, ar ranged somewhat In scarf fashion, seem popular for play hats and traveling. In fact, some of the smartest bats shown for little girls are rough straw, white, ecru and dark blue, with a broad ribbon band around the crown, finished with a mitred point and two tailored looking ends of ribbon which strike about at the shoul der. In play dresses, where colored cham brey, gingham, zephyrs, etc., are used al most invariably you find the white guimpe, sometimes in embroidery, oftener In tucked lawn, while the jumper Is fin ished all the way round neck and sleeve openings with scallops done In white mer cerised floss. The larger the girlie, the deeper the scallops, while for little chil dren the needlework is exquisitely fine and dainty. 0 For very best frocks much hand work Is noticed, and often this is done" in shaped pieces for yoke, cuffs or panels. In Figure A Is shown a little frock suit ed to almost any thin fabric It Is abso lutely simple In lines, relieved only by scalloped edges and a shaped yoke. A little embroidery-may be added to the ki Beauty Hints for MANY a. mother Is quite shocked to find, when vacation days roll around, to find that she hardly knows her own school-girl daughter. For nine months, five mornings each week have represented more or less excitement to get that daughter off to school on time. From school there has been an other rush to music lessons, a dancing class or a girls' club. Saturdays have stood for shopping excursions and mati nees or calls. Sunday, the one day of rest, has found Jhe mother glad to relax and forget domestic and maternal duties. As a result, when vacation does begin the mother is surprised to find that this girl with whom she now comes face to face every day in the week, is an entirely different young person from the daughter she has been rushing to school, private classes, concerts, etc. First she wil note defects in her daughter's bearing, her work, her gen eral posture when seated. There may be a tendency to stooping, to round shoulders, to standing with one hip thrust out or with one shoulder - higher than the other. For any of these tricks, the best cure consists of a few simple exercises and walking under careful oversight. For a graceful .carriage there is nothing better than raising and lowering the weight slowly and regularly on the toes. Stand with heels together, toes turned ut, shoulders back,- chest high, abdomen de pressed, head up and chin in, hands on the hips, finger tips forward. Very slow ly raise the body, first on the ball of the foot, then on the toes, and hold the po sition -a few seconds;' then as slowly THE SUXDAT OREGONIAX, PORTLAND. FIGURE C. FIGURE A. mono sleeves and shaped collar, or ma chine embroidered medallions or lace in serting may be substituted. Figure B shows a panel effect in hand embroidery, the panel spreading out in a shaped collar.' Panel and collar may be edged with frlllings of lace, German "val. being best for the purpose. Here, too, will be noted a pretty use of ribbons with out the dragging sash, which all active girlies dread. f In Figure C you have spread before you the possibilities of combining all-over embroidery, matching edging and a vory little lawn or linen In a similar quality. This design was drawn from a lovely lit tle frock of all-over batiste with edging to match, embroidered beading and deli cately tinted pink ribbons run through the beading and finished with butterfly bows. This is a very good style for a thin girl. ' A one-piece frock is Figure D, but with a little trimming at the square-cut neck and kimono sleeves, together with a sash, it becomes quite dressy. For a restless child, the appearance of the sash will be Improved if straps of embroidery are fast ened at intervals around the waist and the sash run loosely through these. The last figure, B, shows the popular epaulette effecto. The square neck is out-, lined with a galloon of machine embroid ery showing scalloped edges. The epau lettes are of tucking, edged-with the gal loon, and under the latter is set a tiny pleating of German val. lace. Two rose bows of pale ribbon are tacked at the corners of the epaulettes to give the nec essary touch of color. It will be noted that few of these frocks have clearly de fined waist lines, and nearly all are simply pleated from the yoke. This aids greatly in the drudgery of Summer laun dry and gives the child more freedom of movement. MARY DBAS. Vacation Days drop back the weight on the entire foot. Repeat this exercise 20 times. Inhaling slowly and deeply through the nose, with the lips' closed. Look straight ahead, not at the floor. This exercise Is especially good to secure balance. The familiar but never-failing trunk twister is useful" not only as an exercise to Secure ' balance, but it acts upon the liver, which is very apt to be sluggish after nine months' "confinement in a schoolroom. Stand erect, as described above, but with the arms out at the side. I on. .the level with the shoulder, palms down. Stand firm with the weight of the body now on the ball of the foot,; now on the heel. Now turn the head and the hips to the right, but swing the arms and shoulders to the left. This movement! as it sounds, is something like turning the body into a human corkscrew. Reverse the position, that is, turn the head and hips to the left, and the arms and shoul ders to the right. Repeat the exercise slowly and firmly, not jerkily, at least ten times. Breathe deeply, always inhal ing through the nose with the lips closed. Never allow the feet to move from their original position. This exercise will do more to stimulate the action of the di gestive organs than all the nostrums ever put up by druggists. If the girl is round shouldered, try this exercise: Stand as described for the first exercise, the weight of the body on the ball of the foot, the hands palms downward and finger tips touching on the chest. Have the elbows on a level with the shoulders. Now, with the eyes fixed on a, certain point in the ceiling, bend the body forward very slowly at the hips, being especially careful not to let the elbows sag or drop, or the gaze to AOE; FIGURE wander from the point selected in the ceiling. This Is not a violent exercise, but invaluable for throwing back the shoul ders. If possible, avoid .braces. Teach the girl rather to form an imaginary brace with her will-power. Do not scold a girl or nag at her about her defects. Rather appeal to her pride, and make her long to be attractive. When she realizes that no amount of pretty frocks can overcome physical defeats, bad carriage and awk ward positions, she will improve her bearing for the sake of being admired. Many girls, directly after examinations, suffer from a light form of insomnia. Do not let this become a habit. Furnish reactionary measures at once. Insist that all school books be packed away and sup ply light, cheerful reading. Be sure that the girl's room is properly aired at night, that her covers are light, that her pillow. If she uses one, is thin, and allow no one to share the bed with her. A tepid bath before retiring sometimes induces sleep. Either a cold or a very hot bath, however, stimulates, and Is very apt to leave the patient more wakeful than ever. Always have near her bed a little plate of crackers, and then if she feels a sink ing sensation at the pit of her stomach, she can ease that by simply nibbling at a cracker. If her hair has a. tendency to fall out, due probably to an everheated condition of the scalp from the hard brain work at the close of the school year, try sun baths. Have the hair hang loose at least part of each day and ventilate and sun It. Wash it with an egg beaten lightly In a pint of tepid, not hot w&ter, rinse thoroughly and dry in the sun. This will cause uniformity of color if the hair, especially blonde hair, has become streaked. Even girls in their teens sometimes form the habit of biting their nails in the schoolroom, and while an appeal to the girl's pride is generally sufficient, ones the strain of examinations is over.' she can help her pride by rubbing a bit of arnica, or aloes, on her nails, and the bit ter flavor will act as a check each, time she puts her abused finger tips to her mouth. KATHERINE MORTON. On Velvet Cont of 1,aftt Century. Selected. Tes! 'TIs old and faded now. Sadly torn; Yet let us remember how 'Twould adorn A Kay gallant at Vauxhftll, And at Bath Assembly ball. And how walking' in the Mall, Once 'twas worn. With a delicate cravat, ' Made of lace. With a smart three-cornered hat, And a face Framed in hair of sunny hue. . Tied behind in hanging queue. ' Curled and frizzed of powder, too, Juat a trace. And a rapier gaily swungr At his aide: O'er his hands lace ruffles hung. Fine Band wide: Oh! his gauds became him well. And the village crones can 111 How full many a Tnnbrldge "belle" For him sighed. Fought he duels one or two, Maybe more. And full many a billet-doux ' At the door 1 Of some patched and powdered fair," He would leave with tragic air, Which he took especial care That she saw. ' But for wife no Fashion's Queen Did be take. Buba maid of modest mien, Tor whose sake He determined Fashion's crowd. With Us buzz of voices loud. And Its train of beauties proud. To forsake. Thus his merry old-time days Fleeted by; And if we our eyes upraise. We ,can spy On a tomb "Sir Clement Gray And his virtuous Lady May... 1 Xying on the slf-same day. Here do lie." JUNE 21, 190S. ' E. Etiquette THE GIRL, who is face to face with her first real vacation, the first Summer outing which she has earned by months of work in store, office or factory, has many pleasures to antici pate and a few problems to dread. After she has settled the resort at which her vacation money shall be spent, and the pretty frocks and furbelows which will make her stay truly joyful, she suddenly pauses and asks: "But how will I make friends?" Enter thus the first problem in good form. - The best way to insure pleasant friend ships on a vacation jaunt is to start out with friends. I am always sincerely sorry for the girl who goes vacationing quite alone. The American girl is en tirely reliable and trustworthy; she is generally quite able to take care of her selfbut she is far more charming when chaperoned. And if she cannot have a chaperon, some sympathetic, light-hearted matron as her companion on her vacation, then by all means let her flock together, three or four of her, and enjoy the vacation as a parly. The lone girl is not regarded with suspicion, but she is not taken up so quickly norordially as the girl who has a chaperonTr who is one of a party. In selecting your resort, choose one that Is not so far away as to eat up money in railway fares. There is always a number of pleasant spots near your home, so that you can save some of the money you have been planning to pay in fare upon holiday sports and side trips. You will find many incidentals at any Summer resort, boats to hire, drives to be paid for, admission to Summer amuse ments, bowling alleys, etc. None of these are included In the rate made for board and room, though they are at tractively set forth in the advertising matter Issued by the hotel. If there is bathing, you must be prepared to hire a bath-house. Generally when euchre par ties are given, guests club together to buy prizes. Hops are free. Having decided upon resort and hotel, write ;in ample time to the manager of the hotel, stating when you want your room, and have a clear understanding as to rates.. If you cannot arrive on the date set, notify the hotel manager of your change in plans. Do not take many odd pieces of bag gage. Pack all you can in your trunk, and carry with you one bag or suitcase, and your umbrella and parasol If they will not go In the trunk. Wear the simplest tailored frock you have in cloth or pongee, if you are going some dis tance, linen If your ride will be short and hot. Have clean white or tan Bilk gloves, never black. Buy your ticket In advance. Do not rush Into the depot with three minutes or less to spare. You will find a long line at the ticket window and you may miss your train. You can buy your ticket a day or so in advance, and reserve your sleeper or parlor car seat if you intend to ride in one. On arriving at your destination, inquire first if the hotel provides a 'bus and ex press service. If not, make a very clear bargain with the expressman or hackman you engage. 1 On reaching the hotel, you 1 enter the office and register, reminding the clerk that your room has been reserved. A bellboy will take your bag and see that you are provided with ice water, sta tionery, etc., for which you tip him, 10 cents being quite sufficient. When you dress to make your first ap pearance on the porch or in the parlors, do not choose your most elaborate gown. A simple lingerie frock will be in better taste, or if you arre in the morning, change to a shirtwaist suit. Your first entrance into the great ( FIGURE for the Fair dining-room will be trying. A head wait er will be near the door to receive guests, and to him you give your name or say "One," which means you are quite alone. He will then place you where he thinks you will be least embarrassed. Some re sorts now have hotel hostesses, and If such there is at your -hotel, she will watch for a lone guest and see that she is introduced apd seated with companion able persons. Once you are given a seat In the dining room, you return ,to it for each meal, unless, on request, the head waiter agrees to change it for you. At every resort certain plans for the day's pleasuring are followed regularly. At seaside resorts, . there are regular bathing hoars, games are played before and. after bathing, and the board walk along- the beach is crowded at night. You will now see the importance of hav ing a chaperon or being one of a party. While there Is little formality at the average American resort, young people do not make promiscuous acquaintances. If you know no one at the hotel and there is no hostess or entertainer, then you must try to make friends with some married or middle-aged woman, who may be kind enough to assume the duties of chaperon. And the girl who is winning and attentive to older women will soon have a desirable chaperon. Young girls frequently speak to each other without introductions, and you are SOME PICNIC DAINTIES Raspberry Shrub Take eight quarts of the fresh berries, one pint of acetic acid, and four quarts of water. Put these into a stone jar and let .it stand for 48 hours, stirring it occasionally. To one pint of the juice, add one pound of sugar, boil 15 m Unites and bottle while hot. When the liquid has cooled in the corked bottles open and refill them; pound the corks in very--tight. If this liquid is to be kept any length of time, cut the cork off close to th,e bottle and dip it in hot wax to seal it. mm m Pressed Chicken Boil three fowls until the meat comes off the oones easily. Re move all the bones and chop the meat up fine, add a piece of melted butter the size of a large egg. Season highly with salt and pepper. Take about one pint of the liquor in which the fowls were boiled, add to this half a box of gelatine and let it dissolve. Put the chicken meat Into a saucepan and add the dissolved gelatine and cook until the broth is ev r dis toibuted. Put into a pan and under a heavy press until perfectly cold. Gold Sandwiches Rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs to a paste. Add two tablespoons of olive oil, mixing with a silver fork. Now add a pinch of mustard, cayenne pepper and salt, and lastly one tablespoon of vinegar. When this is thor oughly mixed, add one cup of grated yel low cheese. Spread on white buttered bread. Biscuit Sandwiches; Roll biscuit dough very thin about like pie crust and spread with butter. Then roll another and put on top of this. Cut out and bane In quick oven. Wrhen done pull apart and spread while hot. For filling take equal parts of chicken and ham, seasonen with celery salt and cayenne pepper, moistened with mayonnaise. Sardine Sandwiches: Take the ear- D. Vacationist always safe in addressing your elders. In fact, the latter arc always worth cul tivating, as they can introduce other young persons to you whin you have been tried and found interesting. A young man who desires to meet you can do so without boldly seeking your acquaintance on the board walk or on the tennis court. He can be introduced by some one connected with the hotel, or he can ask the elderly woman who hi! sees you with to make the introduction. Do not allow the so-called privileges of the Summer girl to lead you astray. It pays to observe the conventions. When large parties are arranged for a side trip, as to sail, or fish, or enjoy a clambake at some distant point, each participant pays her own fare unless es Hcially Invited by some individual. If the married woman who has taken you under her wing unmistakably invites you to go as .her guest, or if tiie invitation comes from some attentive young man, well and good, but do not be deceived by the fluttering person who goes around with a subscription paper or makes up parties. This means you must bear your share of the expense. And especially if your nrother is not ac companying you, do not remain late out with young men upon sliaciowy porches or on the beach unchaperoned. It may seem romantic, hut well-bred guests at the hotel where you wish to shine will call It by a less kindlv riame. PRUDKSl'B STANDISH. dines from a large can, skin and bone them and mash to a paste. Take the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs and mix to a paste, and chop the whites very tine, blend with this some molted butter, then add the sardines and flavor with lemon juice. Finally add six olives chopped very fine. Scared. Chicago SC veil f itg Post. President Roosevelt, it is announced, wi'.I hunt biff game, in Africa rifxt year. In the j ungle's dim ret reat , creeps the tiger, and his feet Tremble greatly in an echo of the terror in liia brain; He has pone and made his will. Shaking as though with a. clillt. For he knows his nRme is written In the tablets of the slain. And the tawny kinjc of .beasts Has no appetitfe for feasts But he skulks across the desert, murmur in? a sullen wail. Races on across the sa nd Heading for a safer land L,ike a dog that has a kettle fastened to Its weary tail. And the hippo in the Ptrrain l.iea no longer in a irrani But is splashing thmuph the water to soma country unexplored. While'the rhino in his fright Plunges on through day and night Asking but a bidden , fastness and a hance for bed and board. And the nilgau and the gnu Both are running wildly, too. While the tapir hides in daytime and goes through the trees by dark. And the springbok and the boar And perhaps a thousand more Wish some Noah would mi lee t them and go Bailing in an ark. In, "his dreams at night each brute Hears the tireless hunter shoot. And the monkeys chatter madly as they leat from tree to tree, And the bold orang-outang Fancies that It hears the bang Of the gun that deals destruction just as swiftly as can be. On & sand bar In the Nile Weeps a lonely crocodile. With no more of joy turning on its huge and hearty grin. For It Fees the fateful day When within the V. S. A. It will fnrni5h a memento of the hunting, . with. Us skin.
