6
FIGURE B.
Summer Frills for the Little Maids
HE) mother who devotes much time
and thought to the gowning of her
small daughters generally finds that
her Summer sewing is done on the In
stallment plan. While one siege with the
seamstress will supply sufficient raiment
for cold weather, Summer dressmaking is
bent accomplished in two lots. The first
includes what is absolutely essential to
meet the needs of e Hrsl warm days in
late Hay and early June, rather stout
little frocks for the last days of school.
The second represents strong play dresses
and the really, truly Summer frocks, all
transparent Stuffs with lace and open
embroidery for trimming.
The latter sewing usually runs quite
well into June, if not July, and in this
the mother is wise because the shop
counters are overflowing with bargains
and short lengths in fabrics and trim
mings which save a pretty penny.
Despite tlie evident effort at simplicity,
'this Is by no means an economical Sum
mcr for the mother of small daughters.
In the first place, it is a season of colors,
and colors in wash fabrics are never
economical. Moreover,, it is a ribbon sea
sonand ribbons wilt under heat, sun and
dampness.
In regard to colors, they are shown in
nil the fabrics for all sorts of usage. For
the past few years, all the afternoon and
Sunday frockx for little girls have been
done in white. This season, pale blue,
pink, cerise, rose, scarlet and brown,
which, by the way, are mostly warm
shades, are much used in all wash fab
rics. The lawns, batistes, organdies and
other transparent fabrics are shown in
the paler tints, hut in ginghams, cham
breys. linens and galatea cloth, you will
lind the most vivid of colorings. And
when a dress "is of white goods or the pop
ular ecru or natural tone. It Is bright
ened by ribbon or belt of brighter hue.
While much is said and written about
the ribbon sets, which Include broad
sashes and enormous hair bows, other
ribbon devices are also used in great pro
fusion. Many restless girlies cannot wear
a sash tied round the waist. It is always
sagging down to the knees or coming un
tied. Such wee maids have the ribbon
garnitures literally sewed to their gowns.
Sometimes the narrow ribbon Is run
through beading- of fancy design and fin
ished with soft knots or what might best
be described as a shower bow.
A very pretty design of this sort waa
rioted at a recent gathering of smartly
dressed children In a private school.
The little dress was cut with a short
waist, suggesting Empire lines, but there
was no confining belt. Instead, the trim
ming and ribbon garnitures were applied
on vertical lines. The fabric was a. soft
handkerchief linen and the trimming a
fine batiste embroidery, with a sharply
pointed edge. This was run in strips from
the neck and shoulders to a point just
above the child's natural waist line, with
the points meeting and leaving a diamond-shaped
opening in the center.
Under this joining of fine embroidery
ran soft strips of white ribbon, each strip
finished with soft loops and long ends.
The effect of the floating ends of white
ribbon was extremely pretty on this an
gular little girl, who would have made a
sorry figure, indeed. In a sash.
Some of the new sashes are figured or
splashed with flowers or done In checks,
but the most effective ribbons for the
small child are those in delicate solid
colors.
Another article of raiment in which
colors are shown is tlyr. stocking. For
little tots the shops are showing white
socks, witli the upper part done in fine
KKESTPHPEtt
pink and white or blue and white checks.
Sometimes these are worn with white
shoes or slippers and sometimes with slip
pers to match the color, pink or blue, but
this Is only for dressy occasion.
Brown ties and stockings are very pop
ular for every day; black patent leather
slippers and ties are for dress, and, In
deed, very few high shoes are shown for
girlies except for rainy-day use, traveling,
etc.
The new hat shapes, like those offered
for older sirls, have the drooping brims,
which are far more becoming to the av
erage juvenile face than the sharply up
turned or roll brim. Floral wreaths are
used on best hats. and. plain ribbons, ar
ranged somewhat In scarf fashion, seem
popular for play hats and traveling. In
fact, some of the smartest bats shown
for little girls are rough straw, white,
ecru and dark blue, with a broad ribbon
band around the crown, finished with a
mitred point and two tailored looking ends
of ribbon which strike about at the shoul
der. In play dresses, where colored cham
brey, gingham, zephyrs, etc., are used al
most invariably you find the white guimpe,
sometimes in embroidery, oftener In
tucked lawn, while the jumper Is fin
ished all the way round neck and sleeve
openings with scallops done In white mer
cerised floss. The larger the girlie, the
deeper the scallops, while for little chil
dren the needlework is exquisitely fine
and dainty.
0 For very best frocks much hand work Is
noticed, and often this is done" in shaped
pieces for yoke, cuffs or panels.
In Figure A Is shown a little frock suit
ed to almost any thin fabric It Is abso
lutely simple In lines, relieved only by
scalloped edges and a shaped yoke. A
little embroidery-may be added to the ki
Beauty Hints for
MANY a. mother Is quite shocked to
find, when vacation days roll
around, to find that she hardly
knows her own school-girl daughter. For
nine months, five mornings each week
have represented more or less excitement
to get that daughter off to school on
time. From school there has been an
other rush to music lessons, a dancing
class or a girls' club. Saturdays have
stood for shopping excursions and mati
nees or calls. Sunday, the one day of
rest, has found Jhe mother glad to relax
and forget domestic and maternal duties.
As a result, when vacation does begin
the mother is surprised to find that this
girl with whom she now comes face to
face every day in the week, is an entirely
different young person from the daughter
she has been rushing to school, private
classes, concerts, etc.
First she wil note defects in her
daughter's bearing, her work, her gen
eral posture when seated. There may
be a tendency to stooping, to round
shoulders, to standing with one hip
thrust out or with one shoulder - higher
than the other.
For any of these tricks, the best cure
consists of a few simple exercises and
walking under careful oversight. For a
graceful .carriage there is nothing better
than raising and lowering the weight
slowly and regularly on the toes. Stand
with heels together, toes turned ut,
shoulders back,- chest high, abdomen de
pressed, head up and chin in, hands on
the hips, finger tips forward. Very slow
ly raise the body, first on the ball of the
foot, then on the toes, and hold the po
sition -a few seconds;' then as slowly
THE SUXDAT OREGONIAX, PORTLAND.
FIGURE C.
FIGURE A.
mono sleeves and shaped collar, or ma
chine embroidered medallions or lace in
serting may be substituted.
Figure B shows a panel effect in hand
embroidery, the panel spreading out in a
shaped collar.' Panel and collar may be
edged with frlllings of lace, German "val.
being best for the purpose. Here, too,
will be noted a pretty use of ribbons with
out the dragging sash, which all active
girlies dread. f
In Figure C you have spread before you
the possibilities of combining all-over
embroidery, matching edging and a vory
little lawn or linen In a similar quality.
This design was drawn from a lovely lit
tle frock of all-over batiste with edging
to match, embroidered beading and deli
cately tinted pink ribbons run through the
beading and finished with butterfly bows.
This is a very good style for a thin girl.
' A one-piece frock is Figure D, but with
a little trimming at the square-cut neck
and kimono sleeves, together with a sash,
it becomes quite dressy. For a restless
child, the appearance of the sash will be
Improved if straps of embroidery are fast
ened at intervals around the waist and
the sash run loosely through these.
The last figure, B, shows the popular
epaulette effecto. The square neck is out-,
lined with a galloon of machine embroid
ery showing scalloped edges. The epau
lettes are of tucking, edged-with the gal
loon, and under the latter is set a tiny
pleating of German val. lace. Two rose
bows of pale ribbon are tacked at the
corners of the epaulettes to give the nec
essary touch of color. It will be noted
that few of these frocks have clearly de
fined waist lines, and nearly all are
simply pleated from the yoke. This aids
greatly in the drudgery of Summer laun
dry and gives the child more freedom of
movement. MARY DBAS.
Vacation Days
drop back the weight on the entire foot.
Repeat this exercise 20 times. Inhaling
slowly and deeply through the nose, with
the lips' closed. Look straight ahead, not
at the floor. This exercise Is especially
good to secure balance.
The familiar but never-failing trunk
twister is useful" not only as an exercise
to Secure ' balance, but it acts upon the
liver, which is very apt to be sluggish
after nine months' "confinement in a
schoolroom.
Stand erect, as described above, but
with the arms out at the side. I on. .the
level with the shoulder, palms down.
Stand firm with the weight of the body
now on the ball of the foot,; now on the
heel. Now turn the head and the hips
to the right, but swing the arms and
shoulders to the left. This movement! as
it sounds, is something like turning the
body into a human corkscrew. Reverse
the position, that is, turn the head and
hips to the left, and the arms and shoul
ders to the right. Repeat the exercise
slowly and firmly, not jerkily, at least
ten times. Breathe deeply, always inhal
ing through the nose with the lips closed.
Never allow the feet to move from their
original position. This exercise will do
more to stimulate the action of the di
gestive organs than all the nostrums ever
put up by druggists.
If the girl is round shouldered, try this
exercise: Stand as described for the
first exercise, the weight of the body
on the ball of the foot, the hands palms
downward and finger tips touching on
the chest. Have the elbows on a level
with the shoulders. Now, with the eyes
fixed on a, certain point in the ceiling,
bend the body forward very slowly at the
hips, being especially careful not to let
the elbows sag or drop, or the gaze to
AOE;
FIGURE
wander from the point selected in the
ceiling. This Is not a violent exercise, but
invaluable for throwing back the shoul
ders. If possible, avoid .braces. Teach the
girl rather to form an imaginary brace
with her will-power. Do not scold a girl
or nag at her about her defects. Rather
appeal to her pride, and make her long
to be attractive. When she realizes that
no amount of pretty frocks can overcome
physical defeats, bad carriage and awk
ward positions, she will improve her
bearing for the sake of being admired.
Many girls, directly after examinations,
suffer from a light form of insomnia. Do
not let this become a habit. Furnish
reactionary measures at once. Insist that
all school books be packed away and sup
ply light, cheerful reading. Be sure that
the girl's room is properly aired at night,
that her covers are light, that her pillow.
If she uses one, is thin, and allow no
one to share the bed with her. A tepid
bath before retiring sometimes induces
sleep. Either a cold or a very hot
bath, however, stimulates, and Is very
apt to leave the patient more wakeful
than ever.
Always have near her bed a little plate
of crackers, and then if she feels a sink
ing sensation at the pit of her stomach,
she can ease that by simply nibbling at a
cracker.
If her hair has a. tendency to fall out,
due probably to an everheated condition
of the scalp from the hard brain work
at the close of the school year, try sun
baths. Have the hair hang loose at least
part of each day and ventilate and sun
It. Wash it with an egg beaten lightly In
a pint of tepid, not hot w&ter, rinse
thoroughly and dry in the sun. This
will cause uniformity of color if the
hair, especially blonde hair, has become
streaked.
Even girls in their teens sometimes
form the habit of biting their nails in the
schoolroom, and while an appeal to the
girl's pride is generally sufficient, ones
the strain of examinations is over.' she
can help her pride by rubbing a bit of
arnica, or aloes, on her nails, and the bit
ter flavor will act as a check each, time
she puts her abused finger tips to her
mouth. KATHERINE MORTON.
On Velvet Cont of 1,aftt Century.
Selected.
Tes! 'TIs old and faded now.
Sadly torn;
Yet let us remember how
'Twould adorn
A Kay gallant at Vauxhftll,
And at Bath Assembly ball.
And how walking' in the Mall,
Once 'twas worn.
With a delicate cravat, '
Made of lace.
With a smart three-cornered hat,
And a face
Framed in hair of sunny hue. .
Tied behind in hanging queue. '
Curled and frizzed of powder, too,
Juat a trace.
And a rapier gaily swungr
At his aide:
O'er his hands lace ruffles hung.
Fine Band wide:
Oh! his gauds became him well.
And the village crones can 111
How full many a Tnnbrldge "belle"
For him sighed.
Fought he duels one or two,
Maybe more.
And full many a billet-doux '
At the door 1
Of some patched and powdered fair,"
He would leave with tragic air,
Which he took especial care
That she saw.
' But for wife no Fashion's Queen
Did be take.
Buba maid of modest mien,
Tor whose sake
He determined Fashion's crowd.
With Us buzz of voices loud.
And Its train of beauties proud.
To forsake.
Thus his merry old-time days
Fleeted by;
And if we our eyes upraise.
We ,can spy
On a tomb "Sir Clement Gray
And his virtuous Lady May... 1
Xying on the slf-same day.
Here do lie."
JUNE 21, 190S.
'
E.
Etiquette
THE GIRL, who is face to face with
her first real vacation, the first
Summer outing which she has
earned by months of work in store, office
or factory, has many pleasures to antici
pate and a few problems to dread. After
she has settled the resort at which her
vacation money shall be spent, and the
pretty frocks and furbelows which will
make her stay truly joyful, she suddenly
pauses and asks: "But how will I make
friends?"
Enter thus the first problem in good
form. -
The best way to insure pleasant friend
ships on a vacation jaunt is to start out
with friends. I am always sincerely
sorry for the girl who goes vacationing
quite alone. The American girl is en
tirely reliable and trustworthy; she is
generally quite able to take care of her
selfbut she is far more charming when
chaperoned.
And if she cannot have a chaperon,
some sympathetic, light-hearted matron
as her companion on her vacation, then
by all means let her flock together, three
or four of her, and enjoy the vacation as
a parly. The lone girl is not regarded
with suspicion, but she is not taken up
so quickly norordially as the girl who
has a chaperonTr who is one of a party.
In selecting your resort, choose one
that Is not so far away as to eat up
money in railway fares. There is always
a number of pleasant spots near your
home, so that you can save some of the
money you have been planning to pay in
fare upon holiday sports and side trips.
You will find many incidentals at any
Summer resort, boats to hire, drives to
be paid for, admission to Summer amuse
ments, bowling alleys, etc. None of
these are included In the rate made for
board and room, though they are at
tractively set forth in the advertising
matter Issued by the hotel. If there is
bathing, you must be prepared to hire a
bath-house. Generally when euchre par
ties are given, guests club together to
buy prizes. Hops are free.
Having decided upon resort and hotel,
write ;in ample time to the manager of
the hotel, stating when you want your
room, and have a clear understanding as
to rates.. If you cannot arrive on the
date set, notify the hotel manager of
your change in plans.
Do not take many odd pieces of bag
gage. Pack all you can in your trunk,
and carry with you one bag or suitcase,
and your umbrella and parasol If they
will not go In the trunk. Wear the
simplest tailored frock you have in cloth
or pongee, if you are going some dis
tance, linen If your ride will be short
and hot. Have clean white or tan Bilk
gloves, never black.
Buy your ticket In advance. Do not
rush Into the depot with three minutes
or less to spare. You will find a long
line at the ticket window and you may
miss your train. You can buy your ticket
a day or so in advance, and reserve your
sleeper or parlor car seat if you intend
to ride in one.
On arriving at your destination, inquire
first if the hotel provides a 'bus and ex
press service. If not, make a very clear
bargain with the expressman or hackman
you engage. 1
On reaching the hotel, you 1 enter the
office and register, reminding the clerk
that your room has been reserved. A
bellboy will take your bag and see that
you are provided with ice water, sta
tionery, etc., for which you tip him, 10
cents being quite sufficient.
When you dress to make your first ap
pearance on the porch or in the parlors,
do not choose your most elaborate gown.
A simple lingerie frock will be in better
taste, or if you arre in the morning,
change to a shirtwaist suit.
Your first entrance into the great (
FIGURE
for the Fair
dining-room will be trying. A head wait
er will be near the door to receive guests,
and to him you give your name or say
"One," which means you are quite alone.
He will then place you where he thinks
you will be least embarrassed. Some re
sorts now have hotel hostesses, and If
such there is at your -hotel, she will
watch for a lone guest and see that she
is introduced apd seated with companion
able persons.
Once you are given a seat In the dining
room, you return ,to it for each meal,
unless, on request, the head waiter
agrees to change it for you.
At every resort certain plans for the
day's pleasuring are followed regularly.
At seaside resorts, . there are regular
bathing hoars, games are played before
and. after bathing, and the board walk
along- the beach is crowded at night.
You will now see the importance of hav
ing a chaperon or being one of a party.
While there Is little formality at the
average American resort, young people
do not make promiscuous acquaintances.
If you know no one at the hotel and
there is no hostess or entertainer, then
you must try to make friends with some
married or middle-aged woman, who may
be kind enough to assume the duties of
chaperon. And the girl who is winning
and attentive to older women will soon
have a desirable chaperon.
Young girls frequently speak to each
other without introductions, and you are
SOME PICNIC
DAINTIES
Raspberry Shrub Take eight quarts of
the fresh berries, one pint of acetic acid,
and four quarts of water. Put these into
a stone jar and let .it stand for 48 hours,
stirring it occasionally. To one pint of
the juice, add one pound of sugar, boil 15
m Unites and bottle while hot. When the
liquid has cooled in the corked bottles
open and refill them; pound the corks in
very--tight. If this liquid is to be kept
any length of time, cut the cork off close
to th,e bottle and dip it in hot wax to
seal it.
mm m
Pressed Chicken Boil three fowls until
the meat comes off the oones easily. Re
move all the bones and chop the meat up
fine, add a piece of melted butter the size
of a large egg. Season highly with salt
and pepper. Take about one pint of the
liquor in which the fowls were boiled, add
to this half a box of gelatine and let it
dissolve. Put the chicken meat Into a
saucepan and add the dissolved gelatine
and cook until the broth is ev r dis
toibuted. Put into a pan and under a
heavy press until perfectly cold.
Gold Sandwiches Rub the yolks of three
hard-boiled eggs to a paste. Add two
tablespoons of olive oil, mixing with a
silver fork. Now add a pinch of mustard,
cayenne pepper and salt, and lastly one
tablespoon of vinegar. When this is thor
oughly mixed, add one cup of grated yel
low cheese. Spread on white buttered
bread.
Biscuit Sandwiches; Roll biscuit dough
very thin about like pie crust and
spread with butter. Then roll another
and put on top of this. Cut out and bane
In quick oven. Wrhen done pull apart
and spread while hot. For filling take
equal parts of chicken and ham, seasonen
with celery salt and cayenne pepper,
moistened with mayonnaise.
Sardine Sandwiches: Take the ear-
D.
Vacationist
always safe in addressing your elders.
In fact, the latter arc always worth cul
tivating, as they can introduce other
young persons to you whin you have
been tried and found interesting.
A young man who desires to meet you
can do so without boldly seeking your
acquaintance on the board walk or on
the tennis court. He can be introduced
by some one connected with the hotel, or
he can ask the elderly woman who hi!
sees you with to make the introduction.
Do not allow the so-called privileges of
the Summer girl to lead you astray. It
pays to observe the conventions.
When large parties are arranged for a
side trip, as to sail, or fish, or enjoy a
clambake at some distant point, each
participant pays her own fare unless es
Hcially Invited by some individual. If
the married woman who has taken you
under her wing unmistakably invites you
to go as .her guest, or if tiie invitation
comes from some attentive young man,
well and good, but do not be deceived by
the fluttering person who goes around
with a subscription paper or makes up
parties. This means you must bear your
share of the expense.
And especially if your nrother is not ac
companying you, do not remain late out
with young men upon sliaciowy porches
or on the beach unchaperoned. It may
seem romantic, hut well-bred guests at
the hotel where you wish to shine will
call It by a less kindlv riame.
PRUDKSl'B STANDISH.
dines from a large can, skin and bone
them and mash to a paste. Take the
yolks of three hard-boiled eggs and mix
to a paste, and chop the whites very tine,
blend with this some molted butter, then
add the sardines and flavor with lemon
juice. Finally add six olives chopped
very fine.
Scared.
Chicago SC veil f itg Post.
President Roosevelt, it is announced, wi'.I
hunt biff game, in Africa rifxt year.
In the j ungle's dim ret reat ,
creeps the tiger, and his feet
Tremble greatly in an echo of the terror
in liia brain;
He has pone and made his will.
Shaking as though with a. clillt.
For he knows his nRme is written In the
tablets of the slain.
And the tawny kinjc of .beasts
Has no appetitfe for feasts
But he skulks across the desert, murmur
in? a sullen wail.
Races on across the sa nd
Heading for a safer land
L,ike a dog that has a kettle fastened to
Its weary tail.
And the hippo in the Ptrrain
l.iea no longer in a irrani
But is splashing thmuph the water to soma
country unexplored.
While'the rhino in his fright
Plunges on through day and night
Asking but a bidden , fastness and a hance
for bed and board.
And the nilgau and the gnu
Both are running wildly, too.
While the tapir hides in daytime and goes
through the trees by dark.
And the springbok and the boar
And perhaps a thousand more
Wish some Noah would mi lee t them and
go Bailing in an ark.
In, "his dreams at night each brute
Hears the tireless hunter shoot.
And the monkeys chatter madly as they
leat from tree to tree,
And the bold orang-outang
Fancies that It hears the bang
Of the gun that deals destruction just as
swiftly as can be.
On & sand bar In the Nile
Weeps a lonely crocodile.
With no more of joy turning on its huge
and hearty grin.
For It Fees the fateful day
When within the V. S. A.
It will fnrni5h a memento of the hunting,
. with. Us skin.