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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 14, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, JUNE 14, 1903. Linens and Laces for Summer Good Form in Summer Raiment 6 gril 11 ; ; ; ; (Ufably NOVELTIES may come and novelties may go, but linen remains forever a dependable and popular fabric. It comes in a variety of weights, from cobweb handkerchief linen to the quality which is almost as heavy and as warm as cheviot. A medium-weight linen makes the most serviceable and comfort able Summer costume. The extremely heavy weaves do not launder so well, and they are anything but cool. In color, ail while and ecru are the most dependable for tubbing, but this year there are many charming tints for the woman who can afford to patronize a dry-cleaner instead of a laundress. One of the smartest of the new linen col ors Is, of course, Copenhagen blue and its "near tints," botli lighter and darker. Some beautiful rose pinks are shown, bordering on cerise, and all the purplish tints like raspberry, crushed strawberry, etc. In the browns, a golden tint with out a suggestion of red Is the coolest of all for Summer wear, but ecru is better even than the darker tint.' A charming gray is offered which Is neither pearl nor steel, but suggests a bit of silvery blue. It combines beautifully with white lace and is cool to eye and touch. . Baby-blue and lavender are bad colors for hard wear, as both show streaks of yellow under sunlight or tubbing. A few very stunning suits (coats and skirts) are shown in black linen, piped with white or-black and white and finished with white cliffs and collars. Also a little of the tea-green linen Is shown for tail-) ored suits, but the popular novelties ol the season are the raspberry and gray linens. In width, these linens vary from 27 to 38 inches, and the latter cuts to best ad vantage, especially for circular skirts. A good quality can bo secured for 60 cents a yard, and 15 yards will make a stun ning three-piece suit, or princess frock and loose coat. The preferred cut for the typically tailored linen suit is a pleated skirt for the stout figure, a tailored shirtwaist with stiff collar, long sleeves and a smart cut awaycoat. The latter is single-breasted and finished with three large buttons. The pleated skirt for the stout woman must be laid in fine pleats, very flat around the hips and stitched down firmly, with the flare br-low the knees. When the linen costume is to be used for more dressy purposes a complete dress suggesting princess lines with tucker and perhaps half sleeves of finer wash materials or lace Is worn under what is known as the slip-on jacket, which may or may not have sleeves. The Jacket may be of linen, heavily en crusted with lace or of lace trimmed by strappings of stitched linen. What Is known as an imitation Irish lace Is the very best combination with linen, and It washes wonderfully well. It can. be bought in the allover widths, in irregular Insertions or galloons, in edgings and in medallions. - It Is a great boon to the woman who cannot embroider, because it takes the place of hand work. The very smartest touch on the linen costume for midsummer Is. of course, this hand-embroidery in large, sprawling, extravagant patterns, done with mercer ized floss, always white, whatever the tint of the gown. And with this em broidery are used quantities of buttons, some covered with the plain linen, others covered with crocheting and still others done in lace. Very large buttons finish the coats, medium-sized buttons trim the Avoiding Fat THIS IS the season of the year when: the stout woman finds it so hard to fight that lethargy which the ex cessive heat is bound to bring. She stays Indoors and takes no exercise. She takes cold baths Instead of warm ones. She drinks quantities of iced liquids. with her meals and yields to innumerable (Other temporary comforts, all of which add to her already heavy figure pounds of addi tional flesh. How to prevent this Is a timely question. To begin with, do not feast the body and then rush to the nearest druggist and buy some patent anti-fat. This is a very dangerous practice, and in the ma jority of cases where women are over burdened with flesh what is needed is not medicine, but a general reform of habits. It is not necessary to starve yourself, but to select certain foods and take exercise. If the days are too warm to venture out, then take a long walk In the evening after supper but exercise you nrust have. As to food: AH sweets are barred, and nothing should be eaten between meals. Kiit no white bread at all unless it is toasted very brown. Gluten or graham breads are permissible. Potatoes are barred in all forms. For breakfast, eat no cereals witji rich cream. But eat any fruit excepting bananas, peaches and melons. In the place of richly cooked desserts, eat fruit without sugar, tigs, dates, nuts and raisins. Never touch veal or pork, but all fish are allowed, unless it be of an oily variety such as mackerel or sardines. Green vegetables and salads are allowed, but no soups. If the abdomen is large, much benefit will be found from drinking chickenweed water. Three or four glasses of this drunk during the day is very refreshing and beneficial. To make this drink, take six handfuls of the freshly gathered, white-blossomed plant, pour over it one quart of boiling water, and let it bol slowly 45 minutes. In the bottom of a china pitcher place a stick of liquorice wood, some lemon peel and two slices of the lemon. Pour over these the strained water. Let it get cold and drink when thirsty. Do not beguile yourself Into thinking that motoring or driving is exercise that will take the place of walking. Neither will dragging one foot after the other around a block or two answer. Start out at a brisk pace, with the head ui shoulders thrown back, and a long, swinging stride. This Is a ' natural, healthy, reducing exercise. Do not fall to take a warm bath every day. A large lump of alum in the1 water is beneficial. When T say warm, I do not mean hot. Hot baths are very de bilitating. And bp generous with the use of a stiff scrubbing brush. In this way you help to break up the fatty globules. Then dry yourself with a rough Turkish towel, and rub the flesh per fectly dry. Do not sit on the piazza with sweet lemonade or iced tea at your elbow. Keep away from the soda water foun tains. These are two rules that must not be broken. At home when you are thirsty, drink the chiekweed water and when you go to the soda fountain with, your girl friend drink vlchy or seltzer or a lemon phosphate. Under no cir cumstances order ice cream soda. Today we are showing Illustrations of reduction exercises for the stout woman. These exercises have been described in full In these columns, and we simply publish the illustrations to make them clearer. Begin these exercises before the Xat becomes too jwuderous. It is much. skirt, and tiny buttons appear on the trimming of blouse, cuffs and collar. The tailored suits are quite frequently piped with a contrasting colors, and black and white striped fabric is used with almost every tint, pale blue, lavender, white, gray and black. Brown is piped with pure white or ecru, and on nearly all the tailored coats a vest is suggested. If only with a piping around the Inside of the collar. Several good designs for linen frocks are shown today, and especially do these emphasise the effective use of buttons. Figure A shows a combination of rasp berry linen, princess net and white sou tache with matching buttons that is most pleasing. The seven-gored skirt is laid to give a panel effect over pleats, and then soutache braid and buttons, both in white, suggest that the panels are buttoned to the pleats. They are used In the same way to Fuggest that the broad front section of the blouse Is buttoned to the pleated side pieces. The chem isette and cliffs are of white princess net and the deep-pointed opening in the blouse Is outlined by a conventional pat tern done in wash soutache. The girdle should be made of the raspberry linen,' for a white girdle would detract from the wearer's height. The net and braid and buttons, all in white, give sufficient re lief from the rich hue of the linen. Figure B was drawn from one of the smartest shirtwaist suit designs In a big importing house. This was of gray linen, trimmed with bias bands of the same fab ric ami crocheted white buttons. The girdle was finished with a huge mother-of-pearl buckle. The eight-gor.ed skirt was buttoned down the front and had Raising Legs at Right Angles to Body Reduces Hips. , inverte'd pleats In me back. If it is to be strictly tailored, the shirt sleeve must bo used. If the design is to be carried out in thin material, such as lawn, then use the shorter sleeve. For a very tall girl, white strappings or bands may be substituted for the self-fabric. In Figure C, you will find a most suc cessful tub design, because the over blouse washes more easily if separate from the guimpe or chemisette. There Is no danger of having the colors run. The deep oval yoke is outlined by a shaped fold of the linen, which can be trimmed with buttons or braid or fra' broidery. It also forms the shoulder straps and outlines the arm's eye. In the model of ecru linen, the trimming was tiny lace buttons, and the yoke or chem isette was handkerchief linen embroid ered in a conventional pattern. And last, in Figure T. you will see one of the smart lace coats of which I spoke in the early part of this article. It is made of all-over imitation Irish with bias folds of linen and fine crocheted but tons. It could also be made of allover embroidery in a hea- open pattern. It takes 2s yards of 32-inch material, lace or embroidery. The stlched folds should be in white linen, for then the coat can be worn with any wash frock, while If colored linen Is used. It can be worn with one suit only. MART DEAN. in -the Summer easier to keep flesh from coming than to get rid of it once you have gained it. Avoid tight lacing. Get a corset that fits you properly. It will cost you J5 or $6, but think of the money you are going to save on Ice cream sodas! Common sense will tell, you that if you pull in your waistings so that you can barely breathe that the circulation will be im peded, your hands and face will get red, you will perspire excessively, and yet the flesh has not disappeared. It has merely been pushed up or down. You weigh Just as much whether your waist measures 26 or 2S Inches. Get a long corset that sup ports the abdomen, not a short one that pushes it down. KATHERIXB MORTON. That Merry Widow. Llppincott's A man whose wife was extremely Jealous planned a pleasant surprise for her in the form of a trip to New York to see "The Merry Widow," and wrote a friend in the city to let him know the earliest date for which he could secure seats. The next day when he was away from home the following telegram was delivered there, ad dressed to him, but opened by his wife: Fig. D White Lace Coat With Stitched Bands of Linen. "Nothing doing with the widow un til the tenth. Will that suit you?" Explanations .were demanded. Is This FalrT Robert T. Hardy lo Llppincott's. If there be any truth In an oft-quoted saw. Opportunity knocks Once at every man's door. But woman Is favored At her door, it appears. Opportunity knocks Once la ererz four rars4 j j Bargain Days for the Busy Fingers THESE are tempting days In shops for women of small means. Everything is reduced, and rem nants are both alluring and plentiful. It Is a wise woman who knows Just what to select from this enticing dis play. First as to marked-down frocks. Be sure you do not select too pronounced styles. Look at the sleeves and skirt and decide whether In ..case styles change next season, the material in the costume can be made over. If nothing better is possible, will there be enough In the skirt and is the de sign suitable for making it over Into a separate blouse?. These matters must be thought of, because a real bargain in fabric bought at this time should be worth some thing next Summer. In remnants suitable for shirtwaists or fancy blouses, avoid the very strik ing color or pattern. Styles may change before Fall, and especially if you are buying silk, you will want to wear it then. A delicate standard color such as tan, ecru, pale blue or pink, is a much better Investment than a large figured silk in one of the sea son's new colorings like Copenhagen blue or raspberry. A good pattern In black and white is always a useful in vestment. Bolts of lace and long strips of em broidery can be ued to good advan tage, and this year even smaller lengths of either can be utilized. A stunning half or quarter yard of fine allover work, tucking, or net can be worked Into a chemisette, but when you dip into the lace remnants, bear in mind the texture and coloring of your allover fabric. A fetching medallion of either embroidery or lace will com bine with fine lawn or handkerchief linen and make a pretty, flat Jabot. Half a yard of Irish crocheted edging will edge a long narrow tab or a but terfly bow of linen for your new linen collar. A couple of yards of good Ger man Val. lace is always worth picking up, and with this you can find good pieces of convent-wrought underwear at a dollar a garment. Inset the un derwear . with diamonds, squares or bowknot txC tha la ne. AndLjiou. lxa.ve-a FIG. B SHIRTWAIST SUIT IN GRAY LINEN. really elaborate garment at a reason able price. ... Ribbon remnants are especially rav ishing: Just now. If you pick up a half-yard of handsome pompadour rib bon, combine it with heavy lace or plain velvet ribbon, braid or buttons and make a new vest in your cloth or Fig. C Overblouse of Ecru Linen With Embroidered Chemisette. silk suit in the Fall. Select rather rich colorings for Fall wear. MARY DEAN. Sweden Makes Forestry Pay. Orsa, in Sweden, has. in the course of a generation, sold J5.55O.O00 worth of trees, and by means of Judicious replant ing has provided for a similar income every 30 or 40 years. There are no taxesi Railways and telephones are free, and so are the sckoolhouses, teaching and many other t hlnE.. Summer Fish; How to Cook Them gHIS is the season when the email I boy and his father take to flsh ing. In somo families this prac tice is regarded as more or less of ft Joke. The more thrifty mother, how ever, is glad to make aise of the catch whenever possible, and thus keep down her marketing bill. Bluefish is one of father's favorite catches. Here are two good recipes: I'lanked Uliiefinh: Select a large fish, not less than two pounds, scale, wash well and wipe dry; cut off head and tail; split it open through the stomach so that it will lay flat. Remove the eplnal bone. Season with salt and pepper and rub well with flour. Have a clean oakefn plank two Inches thick piping hot, rub it with sweet oil or butter. In a large frying pan melt three tablespoonf uls of clean drippings and lay the fish In the pan, split side down, fry briskly until golden brown, turn and brown the other side. Then lay it on the hot plank, the skin side down. Spread over it a tablespoonf ul of melted butter, place in a hot oven and bake for 20 minutes. Garnish with thin slices of lemon and parsley greens, and serve on the plank, which you lay on a large platter or tray. Thin, ice cold cucumbers served with French dressing are delicious with this fish. Baked Blueflnhi Clean as described above, and sprinjjje with salt an hour before baking. For a three-pound fish allow one hour and a half In a moder ately hot oven. Cover the fish with slices of tomatoes, one teaspoon of whole peppers, a little more salt, two slices of onion, one bay leaf, two slices of carrot, two tablespoons of butter, and water enough to 'cover the bottom of the pan. Baste the fish very often. Serve on a hot platter garnished with watercress or other greens, and sliced lemon. Brook Trouti Clean the fish thor oughly, leaving on the heads and tails. After washing, wrap them in a clean dry cloth to absorb all the moisture. Melt in your frying pan butter and lard, or clarified drippings, in the pro portion of one-third butter and two thirds lard. When melted! the grease should be at least a quarter of an inch deep in the skillet. Season, the fish with pepper and salt, roll them in corn meal, and, when the fat is smoking hot. ia-X in. the flsh and in A FAVORED few women there are who have learned to properly con nect modes and manners. The av erage woman, unfortunate, thinks that there is very little connection between good manners and the latest fashions. Consequently the woman who may be punctilious about her manners," in many respects, shows flagrantly bad form In her adaptation of the moment's fashions. Sha learns from her dressmaker that elbow sleeves are popular and she for gets that It is poor etiquette indeed to appear with bare arms on the street. She is told by her shoe dealer that spangled buckles are the rage this sea son, and promptly she forgets that It is extremely ill-bred to wear conspicuous raiment on the street. The really well-bred woma fits the fashions to the time and the place. She does not force the time and the occasion to accept some ultra-fashionable whim. Especially Is this difference In breeding noticeable in Summer, when, somehow, the general public see6 a woman more intimately. A thousand little screens does Dame Fashion provide for Winter, but In Summer the woman is apt to fling aside discretion In dress. The well-bred woman is as particular about her traveling apparel in Summer as in W inter. She does not wear a black or dark skirt, with a white shirtwaist, on the train. Instead, she knows that the coat suit is absolutely the only correct form of attire for traveling. If -she is going some distance, and notably on ship board, her traveling costume is of light weight cloth, mixed goods, made without Rocking on the Floor Lengthens the Waist. frills to catch dust, with tailored skirt and Jacket matching shirtwaist in silk or dark striped wash fabric. Soft china silk is an excellent material for traveling waists. Her hat is distinctly tailored, in dark colors, without lace choux and airy flowers or plume.s. Her gloves are of tan. light brown or white silk, never black. She is above all Wiings an inconspicuous figure. if the trtp is to he a short one, she may wear a three-piece silk suit in sub dued coloring, pongee or taffetas, or. for the week-end trip, she will wear a natural colored or dark linen suit, always with a jacket. The correctly gowned suburban woman, bound for a days shopping in tha city, also wears a coat suit, in cloth, silk or Common Causes DR. HORACE DOBELL, at one time senior physician in the Koyal hospital in London, and a high authority on diseases of the chest, has enumerated what he considers the most common causes of ordinary colds. In 21 per cent of the cases he investigated the cause was a sudden change of tem perature. Fogs and damp air were the causes of 19 per cent, draughts of cold air in 16 per cent, cold winds in 10 per cent, getting wet In 14 per cent, and wet feet in 17 per cent. In the remaining 3 per cent the causes could not be traced. The above statements were made by the patients, who may have been mis taken. For example, a cold may develop after exposure, or after getting wet, when neither the exposure nor the wet ting is responsible for It. While other authorities agree with the opinion of Dr. Dobell, yet the question remains, are these true causes of colds? For one may get wet and chilled through, or he may expose himself to cold winds and damp air. and still not take cold. Those un comfortable conditions, then, sometimes do, but often do not, produce bad ef fects. The consensus of opinion today seems to be that colds are sequelae of disturbances of the circulation, brought on often, though not invariably by ex posure to cold and wet, and that these disturbances lend to produce inflamma tion in the weakest part of the respir atory apparatus. In the writer's opinion, the chief causes of colds are heat which Is es pecially .dangerous in Winter and sud den changes of temperature. If one could avoid hot rooms and bad air in Winter he would rarely take cold. Sed entary employment renders one pceu- Fig. A Raspberry Linen Suit, Button Trimmings. llarly liable to colds on account of Its depressing effect on the circulation. When one's occupation necessitates his sitting still for several hours he should not be very heavily clad, and the tem perature of the room should be 70 or 72 degrees Fahrenheit: then on going out into the cold he should not only don warm outer clothing, but should walk briskly to quicken his circulation. .Aji the art Inn neither of the air linen. In fact, every well-bred suburban woman considers her pongee suit to wear when going to town an essential part of her wardrobe. The young woman invited for an after noon of golf at the country club. If tr.e trip is to be made by train, wears her linen golfing suit, generally with a short skirt showing neat tics, a lightweight jacket and a tailored hat. Her soiling cap she carries with her clubs, atid she does not appear on the train with the throat of her blouse turned in. her sleeve rolled tip and "athletics" stanijKd on her rough-and-ready manner. She reserves all this for where it belongs, on the links. The inexperienced young phi often makes the mistake of traveling to the suburbs or a country estate in too much finery. A well-bred country hostess was horrified to see stepping from the train an invited guest all In pate blue mull with a flower-crowned leghorn hat. Such raiment will be needed during a week-end visit or longer, hut tin muil gown and flowered hat are parked in a steamer trunk or wicker telescope and something tailored is worn on the trip, even if it ia warm. Xo well-bred girl appears on a city street, especially when shopping, in elbow sleeves, without gloves or with the neck of her blouse cut low. Such attire may be worn by the Summer girl at beach or mountain resort, on piazzas or front steps In town, hut never when downtown on business bent. This rule applies to the business girl also, who will make a much better ap pearance in the eyes of her employers and customers If she wears a high-necked blouse and long sleeves at work. Th tailored shirtwaist suit is what every business girl should wear downtown in Summer, and dress in lingerie effects after working hours. It may seem hard to stick to high collars all Summer, but if the linen collar is worn in a sufficiently large size it dors not cling to the neck, and is cooler than tight-fitting lace col lars or ribbons. Another ill-bred thing that many girl".,1 particularly business girls, do is to wear very thin blouses with brightly tinted, ribbons in wide measure on their lin-f gerie. Only the other day a young girl, who served me in a department store wore a blouse which was one mass of lace insertion in the front. Her corset, cover, a very cheap affair, showedi through the lace, with a huge bow of pink rihbon not less than four inches wide! The effect was neither pretty nor. lady-like. A real gentlewoman wears white rihbon on her lingerie, and that in, reasonable width. White shoes and stockings are not pood form on city streets. The young girl going to a pirnlc or dance after business hours may sometimes Indulge in them, provided she is quite sure they will re main clean and not become unsightly, hut they are very bad form In business. No well-bred girl goes to chureli in a low-necked Summer blouse, without hat or gloves. So common has this breach t'f etiquette become that certain clergymen have denounced ft from the pulpit. PRCDEXLTB STAND1SII. of Ordinary Colds of the water will rust Iron, while their combined action will, so are colds caused neither by heat nor by cold, but rather by a sudden transition from eitoer to the other. While it will he conceded as a well known fact that a sudden transition from heat to cold may cause a cold, yet the further contention that transi tion from cold to heat may equally cause a cold, will, in some quarters, be disputed. Nevertheless the latter state ment is logical. If it is a fact that colds come from disturbances of the circu lation. The. vigor of the circulation is proportional within limits to the tem perature of the air that acts on It. The mechanical arrangements in the body for maintaining . animal heat adapt themselves to this surrounding temper ature, and when it changes suddenly, whether from heat to cold, or from cold to heat, the circulation is dis turbed and may produce a cold. The above theory proved practically true- in the following Instance: Two men crossed the Atlantic Orean in an oien boat. The voyage lasted several months, during that time storms were encountered, and the men. while labor ing at the oars, were often exhausted, wet and chilled through, yet through out the whole of their trying experi ence neither caught cold. But when having arrived safe on the other side, they sought shelter and got thoroughly warmed both' developed very heavy colds. The reason that the colds de veloped after and not during the ex posure may have been that when the hot blood, which the cold wind and water had forced back to the internal organs. suddenly returned under tho Influence of warmth to the so long de pleted mucous surfaces, it set up an in flammation that manifested itself as a cold a striking Instance of the effect of a disturbed circulation. H. W. Gardner states In the R!r- mlngham Medical Review. March 18!R. that Nanscn wrote him that neither he nor his companions caught cold while in the. Arctic regions, but that all of them Immediately took cold when they returned to Norway. A simi lar communication was received from Kottllz. who was the medical officer to the Jackson-Harmsworth expedition. A. fhelmonski concludes from a num ber of investigations that cold does not In the ordinary sense, produce disease, since its effect is but slight, merely pre paring the way for micro-organisms. He remarks that the grade of the reaction of the skin to cold Indicates whether a person will readily take cold or not, there being no relation between the reaction and the condition of the individual's nutrition or of his temperature sense. From these considerations he concludes that the proper method of protecting against cold Is not to wear an excessive amount of clothing, but to stimulate the skin to rapid reaction. All of which !s interesting as explaining the why of thi notorious fact that children who are swathed in heavy clothing in Winter ar more prone to cold than are poor children who are more lightly clad. Regarding influenza, which is nothing more than a heavy cold. G. Gresswe!!, in the Lancet. September in, l'HT. makes the remarkable observation that he lias found that healthy persons are more likely to be infected with this disease than are those who have been previously in bad health. The normal temperature of the human body is. as everybody knows, about 9S.4 degrees Fahrenheit. In conclusion, we may say that the best way to avoid colds is to avoid whenever possible, those conditions that profoundly and suddenly disturb the cir culation: that is to say, we should avoid extremes In temperature, and when we cannot do this we can at least modify their effects by proper clothing. Also we should, by systematic and vigorous exercise and csre In the diet, keep the blood free from Impurities and its cir culation active. A general robust health and an ability to recover quickly from unavoidable systematic, disturbances ex plains the Immunity some persons enjoy Irom cuius Js. Y. World,
