THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, JUNE 14, 1903.
Linens and Laces for Summer
Good Form in Summer Raiment
6
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NOVELTIES may come and novelties
may go, but linen remains forever
a dependable and popular fabric.
It comes in a variety of weights, from
cobweb handkerchief linen to the quality
which is almost as heavy and as warm
as cheviot. A medium-weight linen
makes the most serviceable and comfort
able Summer costume. The extremely
heavy weaves do not launder so well, and
they are anything but cool.
In color, ail while and ecru are the
most dependable for tubbing, but this
year there are many charming tints for
the woman who can afford to patronize
a dry-cleaner instead of a laundress.
One of the smartest of the new linen col
ors Is, of course, Copenhagen blue and its
"near tints," botli lighter and darker.
Some beautiful rose pinks are shown,
bordering on cerise, and all the purplish
tints like raspberry, crushed strawberry,
etc. In the browns, a golden tint with
out a suggestion of red Is the coolest of
all for Summer wear, but ecru is better
even than the darker tint.' A charming
gray is offered which Is neither pearl
nor steel, but suggests a bit of silvery
blue. It combines beautifully with white
lace and is cool to eye and touch. .
Baby-blue and lavender are bad colors
for hard wear, as both show streaks of
yellow under sunlight or tubbing. A
few very stunning suits (coats and skirts)
are shown in black linen, piped with
white or-black and white and finished
with white cliffs and collars. Also a little
of the tea-green linen Is shown for tail-)
ored suits, but the popular novelties ol
the season are the raspberry and gray
linens.
In width, these linens vary from 27 to
38 inches, and the latter cuts to best ad
vantage, especially for circular skirts. A
good quality can bo secured for 60 cents
a yard, and 15 yards will make a stun
ning three-piece suit, or princess frock
and loose coat.
The preferred cut for the typically
tailored linen suit is a pleated skirt for
the stout figure, a tailored shirtwaist with
stiff collar, long sleeves and a smart cut
awaycoat. The latter is single-breasted
and finished with three large buttons.
The pleated skirt for the stout woman
must be laid in fine pleats, very flat
around the hips and stitched down firmly,
with the flare br-low the knees.
When the linen costume is to be used
for more dressy purposes a complete
dress suggesting princess lines with
tucker and perhaps half sleeves of finer
wash materials or lace Is worn under
what is known as the slip-on jacket,
which may or may not have sleeves. The
Jacket may be of linen, heavily en
crusted with lace or of lace trimmed by
strappings of stitched linen. What Is
known as an imitation Irish lace Is the
very best combination with linen, and It
washes wonderfully well. It can. be
bought in the allover widths, in irregular
Insertions or galloons, in edgings and in
medallions. - It Is a great boon to the
woman who cannot embroider, because it
takes the place of hand work.
The very smartest touch on the linen
costume for midsummer Is. of course, this
hand-embroidery in large, sprawling,
extravagant patterns, done with mercer
ized floss, always white, whatever the
tint of the gown. And with this em
broidery are used quantities of buttons,
some covered with the plain linen, others
covered with crocheting and still others
done in lace. Very large buttons finish
the coats, medium-sized buttons trim the
Avoiding Fat
THIS IS the season of the year when:
the stout woman finds it so hard to
fight that lethargy which the ex
cessive heat is bound to bring. She stays
Indoors and takes no exercise. She takes
cold baths Instead of warm ones. She
drinks quantities of iced liquids. with her
meals and yields to innumerable (Other
temporary comforts, all of which add to
her already heavy figure pounds of addi
tional flesh. How to prevent this Is a
timely question.
To begin with, do not feast the body
and then rush to the nearest druggist
and buy some patent anti-fat. This is a
very dangerous practice, and in the ma
jority of cases where women are over
burdened with flesh what is needed is
not medicine, but a general reform of
habits. It is not necessary to starve
yourself, but to select certain foods and
take exercise. If the days are too warm
to venture out, then take a long walk In
the evening after supper but exercise
you nrust have.
As to food: AH sweets are barred, and
nothing should be eaten between meals.
Kiit no white bread at all unless it is
toasted very brown. Gluten or graham
breads are permissible. Potatoes are
barred in all forms. For breakfast, eat
no cereals witji rich cream. But eat any
fruit excepting bananas, peaches and
melons. In the place of richly cooked
desserts, eat fruit without sugar, tigs,
dates, nuts and raisins. Never touch
veal or pork, but all fish are allowed,
unless it be of an oily variety such as
mackerel or sardines. Green vegetables
and salads are allowed, but no soups.
If the abdomen is large, much benefit
will be found from drinking chickenweed
water. Three or four glasses of this
drunk during the day is very refreshing
and beneficial. To make this drink, take
six handfuls of the freshly gathered,
white-blossomed plant, pour over it one
quart of boiling water, and let it bol
slowly 45 minutes. In the bottom of a
china pitcher place a stick of liquorice
wood, some lemon peel and two slices of
the lemon. Pour over these the strained
water. Let it get cold and drink when
thirsty.
Do not beguile yourself Into thinking
that motoring or driving is exercise that
will take the place of walking. Neither
will dragging one foot after the other
around a block or two answer. Start
out at a brisk pace, with the head ui
shoulders thrown back, and a long,
swinging stride. This Is a ' natural,
healthy, reducing exercise.
Do not fall to take a warm bath every
day. A large lump of alum in the1 water
is beneficial. When T say warm, I do
not mean hot. Hot baths are very de
bilitating. And bp generous with the
use of a stiff scrubbing brush. In this
way you help to break up the fatty
globules. Then dry yourself with a rough
Turkish towel, and rub the flesh per
fectly dry.
Do not sit on the piazza with sweet
lemonade or iced tea at your elbow.
Keep away from the soda water foun
tains. These are two rules that must
not be broken. At home when you are
thirsty, drink the chiekweed water and
when you go to the soda fountain with,
your girl friend drink vlchy or seltzer
or a lemon phosphate. Under no cir
cumstances order ice cream soda.
Today we are showing Illustrations of
reduction exercises for the stout woman.
These exercises have been described in
full In these columns, and we simply
publish the illustrations to make them
clearer. Begin these exercises before the
Xat becomes too jwuderous. It is much.
skirt, and tiny buttons appear on the
trimming of blouse, cuffs and collar.
The tailored suits are quite frequently
piped with a contrasting colors, and black
and white striped fabric is used with
almost every tint, pale blue, lavender,
white, gray and black. Brown is piped
with pure white or ecru, and on nearly
all the tailored coats a vest is suggested.
If only with a piping around the Inside
of the collar.
Several good designs for linen frocks
are shown today, and especially do these
emphasise the effective use of buttons.
Figure A shows a combination of rasp
berry linen, princess net and white sou
tache with matching buttons that is most
pleasing. The seven-gored skirt is laid
to give a panel effect over pleats, and
then soutache braid and buttons, both
in white, suggest that the panels are
buttoned to the pleats. They are used In
the same way to Fuggest that the broad
front section of the blouse Is buttoned
to the pleated side pieces. The chem
isette and cliffs are of white princess
net and the deep-pointed opening in the
blouse Is outlined by a conventional pat
tern done in wash soutache. The girdle
should be made of the raspberry linen,'
for a white girdle would detract from the
wearer's height. The net and braid and
buttons, all in white, give sufficient re
lief from the rich hue of the linen.
Figure B was drawn from one of the
smartest shirtwaist suit designs In a big
importing house. This was of gray linen,
trimmed with bias bands of the same fab
ric ami crocheted white buttons. The
girdle was finished with a huge mother-of-pearl
buckle. The eight-gor.ed skirt
was buttoned down the front and had
Raising Legs at Right Angles to Body
Reduces Hips. ,
inverte'd pleats In me back. If it is to
be strictly tailored, the shirt sleeve must
bo used. If the design is to be carried
out in thin material, such as lawn, then
use the shorter sleeve. For a very tall
girl, white strappings or bands may be
substituted for the self-fabric.
In Figure C, you will find a most suc
cessful tub design, because the over
blouse washes more easily if separate
from the guimpe or chemisette. There
Is no danger of having the colors run.
The deep oval yoke is outlined by a
shaped fold of the linen, which can be
trimmed with buttons or braid or fra'
broidery. It also forms the shoulder
straps and outlines the arm's eye. In
the model of ecru linen, the trimming was
tiny lace buttons, and the yoke or chem
isette was handkerchief linen embroid
ered in a conventional pattern.
And last, in Figure T. you will see
one of the smart lace coats of which I
spoke in the early part of this article.
It is made of all-over imitation Irish with
bias folds of linen and fine crocheted but
tons. It could also be made of allover
embroidery in a hea- open pattern. It
takes 2s yards of 32-inch material, lace
or embroidery. The stlched folds should
be in white linen, for then the coat can
be worn with any wash frock, while If
colored linen Is used. It can be worn with
one suit only. MART DEAN.
in -the Summer
easier to keep flesh from coming than to
get rid of it once you have gained it.
Avoid tight lacing. Get a corset that
fits you properly. It will cost you J5 or
$6, but think of the money you are going
to save on Ice cream sodas! Common
sense will tell, you that if you pull in
your waistings so that you can barely
breathe that the circulation will be im
peded, your hands and face will get red,
you will perspire excessively, and yet the
flesh has not disappeared. It has merely
been pushed up or down. You weigh Just
as much whether your waist measures 26
or 2S Inches. Get a long corset that sup
ports the abdomen, not a short one that
pushes it down.
KATHERIXB MORTON.
That Merry Widow.
Llppincott's
A man whose wife was extremely
Jealous planned a pleasant surprise for
her in the form of a trip to New York
to see "The Merry Widow," and wrote
a friend in the city to let him know
the earliest date for which he could
secure seats. The next day when he
was away from home the following
telegram was delivered there, ad
dressed to him, but opened by his wife:
Fig. D White Lace Coat With Stitched
Bands of Linen.
"Nothing doing with the widow un
til the tenth. Will that suit you?"
Explanations .were demanded.
Is This FalrT
Robert T. Hardy lo Llppincott's.
If there be any truth
In an oft-quoted saw.
Opportunity knocks
Once at every man's door.
But woman Is favored
At her door, it appears.
Opportunity knocks
Once la ererz four rars4
j j
Bargain Days for the
Busy Fingers
THESE are tempting days In shops
for women of small means.
Everything is reduced, and rem
nants are both alluring and plentiful.
It Is a wise woman who knows Just
what to select from this enticing dis
play. First as to marked-down frocks. Be
sure you do not select too pronounced
styles. Look at the sleeves and skirt
and decide whether In ..case styles
change next season, the material in
the costume can be made over. If
nothing better is possible, will there
be enough In the skirt and is the de
sign suitable for making it over Into
a separate blouse?.
These matters must be thought of,
because a real bargain in fabric bought
at this time should be worth some
thing next Summer.
In remnants suitable for shirtwaists
or fancy blouses, avoid the very strik
ing color or pattern. Styles may
change before Fall, and especially if
you are buying silk, you will want to
wear it then. A delicate standard
color such as tan, ecru, pale blue or
pink, is a much better Investment than
a large figured silk in one of the sea
son's new colorings like Copenhagen
blue or raspberry. A good pattern In
black and white is always a useful in
vestment. Bolts of lace and long strips of em
broidery can be ued to good advan
tage, and this year even smaller
lengths of either can be utilized. A
stunning half or quarter yard of fine
allover work, tucking, or net can be
worked Into a chemisette, but when
you dip into the lace remnants, bear in
mind the texture and coloring of your
allover fabric. A fetching medallion
of either embroidery or lace will com
bine with fine lawn or handkerchief
linen and make a pretty, flat Jabot.
Half a yard of Irish crocheted edging
will edge a long narrow tab or a but
terfly bow of linen for your new linen
collar. A couple of yards of good Ger
man Val. lace is always worth picking
up, and with this you can find good
pieces of convent-wrought underwear
at a dollar a garment. Inset the un
derwear . with diamonds, squares or
bowknot txC tha la ne. AndLjiou. lxa.ve-a
FIG. B SHIRTWAIST SUIT IN GRAY LINEN.
really elaborate garment at a reason
able price. ...
Ribbon remnants are especially rav
ishing: Just now. If you pick up a
half-yard of handsome pompadour rib
bon, combine it with heavy lace or
plain velvet ribbon, braid or buttons
and make a new vest in your cloth or
Fig. C Overblouse of Ecru Linen With
Embroidered Chemisette.
silk suit in the Fall. Select rather
rich colorings for Fall wear.
MARY DEAN.
Sweden Makes Forestry Pay.
Orsa, in Sweden, has. in the course of
a generation, sold J5.55O.O00 worth of
trees, and by means of Judicious replant
ing has provided for a similar income
every 30 or 40 years. There are no taxesi
Railways and telephones are free, and so
are the sckoolhouses, teaching and many
other t hlnE..
Summer Fish; How
to Cook Them
gHIS is the season when the email
I boy and his father take to flsh
ing. In somo families this prac
tice is regarded as more or less of ft
Joke. The more thrifty mother, how
ever, is glad to make aise of the catch
whenever possible, and thus keep down
her marketing bill. Bluefish is one of
father's favorite catches. Here are two
good recipes:
I'lanked Uliiefinh: Select a large fish,
not less than two pounds, scale, wash
well and wipe dry; cut off head and
tail; split it open through the stomach
so that it will lay flat. Remove the
eplnal bone. Season with salt and
pepper and rub well with flour. Have
a clean oakefn plank two Inches thick
piping hot, rub it with sweet oil or
butter. In a large frying pan melt
three tablespoonf uls of clean drippings
and lay the fish In the pan, split side
down, fry briskly until golden brown,
turn and brown the other side. Then
lay it on the hot plank, the skin side
down. Spread over it a tablespoonf ul
of melted butter, place in a hot oven
and bake for 20 minutes. Garnish with
thin slices of lemon and parsley greens,
and serve on the plank, which you lay
on a large platter or tray. Thin, ice
cold cucumbers served with French
dressing are delicious with this fish.
Baked Blueflnhi Clean as described
above, and sprinjjje with salt an hour
before baking. For a three-pound fish
allow one hour and a half In a moder
ately hot oven. Cover the fish with
slices of tomatoes, one teaspoon of
whole peppers, a little more salt, two
slices of onion, one bay leaf, two slices
of carrot, two tablespoons of butter,
and water enough to 'cover the bottom
of the pan. Baste the fish very often.
Serve on a hot platter garnished with
watercress or other greens, and sliced
lemon.
Brook Trouti Clean the fish thor
oughly, leaving on the heads and tails.
After washing, wrap them in a clean
dry cloth to absorb all the moisture.
Melt in your frying pan butter and
lard, or clarified drippings, in the pro
portion of one-third butter and two
thirds lard. When melted! the grease
should be at least a quarter of an inch
deep in the skillet. Season, the fish
with pepper and salt, roll them in corn
meal, and, when the fat is smoking
hot. ia-X in. the flsh and in
A FAVORED few women there are
who have learned to properly con
nect modes and manners. The av
erage woman, unfortunate, thinks that
there is very little connection between
good manners and the latest fashions.
Consequently the woman who may be
punctilious about her manners," in many
respects, shows flagrantly bad form In
her adaptation of the moment's fashions.
Sha learns from her dressmaker that
elbow sleeves are popular and she for
gets that It is poor etiquette indeed to
appear with bare arms on the street.
She is told by her shoe dealer that
spangled buckles are the rage this sea
son, and promptly she forgets that It is
extremely ill-bred to wear conspicuous
raiment on the street.
The really well-bred woma fits the
fashions to the time and the place. She
does not force the time and the occasion
to accept some ultra-fashionable whim.
Especially Is this difference In breeding
noticeable in Summer, when, somehow,
the general public see6 a woman more
intimately. A thousand little screens does
Dame Fashion provide for Winter, but
In Summer the woman is apt to fling
aside discretion In dress.
The well-bred woman is as particular
about her traveling apparel in Summer
as in W inter. She does not wear a black
or dark skirt, with a white shirtwaist, on
the train. Instead, she knows that the
coat suit is absolutely the only correct
form of attire for traveling. If -she is
going some distance, and notably on ship
board, her traveling costume is of light
weight cloth, mixed goods, made without
Rocking on the Floor Lengthens the
Waist.
frills to catch dust, with tailored skirt
and Jacket matching shirtwaist in silk or
dark striped wash fabric. Soft china silk
is an excellent material for traveling
waists. Her hat is distinctly tailored, in
dark colors, without lace choux and airy
flowers or plume.s. Her gloves are of tan.
light brown or white silk, never black.
She is above all Wiings an inconspicuous
figure.
if the trtp is to he a short one, she
may wear a three-piece silk suit in sub
dued coloring, pongee or taffetas, or. for
the week-end trip, she will wear a natural
colored or dark linen suit, always with a
jacket.
The correctly gowned suburban woman,
bound for a days shopping in tha city,
also wears a coat suit, in cloth, silk or
Common Causes
DR. HORACE DOBELL, at one time
senior physician in the Koyal
hospital in London, and a high
authority on diseases of the chest, has
enumerated what he considers the most
common causes of ordinary colds. In
21 per cent of the cases he investigated
the cause was a sudden change of tem
perature. Fogs and damp air were the
causes of 19 per cent, draughts of cold
air in 16 per cent, cold winds in 10 per
cent, getting wet In 14 per cent, and wet
feet in 17 per cent. In the remaining 3
per cent the causes could not be traced.
The above statements were made by
the patients, who may have been mis
taken. For example, a cold may develop
after exposure, or after getting wet,
when neither the exposure nor the wet
ting is responsible for It. While other
authorities agree with the opinion of Dr.
Dobell, yet the question remains, are
these true causes of colds? For one may
get wet and chilled through, or he may
expose himself to cold winds and damp
air. and still not take cold. Those un
comfortable conditions, then, sometimes
do, but often do not, produce bad ef
fects. The consensus of opinion today
seems to be that colds are sequelae of
disturbances of the circulation, brought
on often, though not invariably by ex
posure to cold and wet, and that these
disturbances lend to produce inflamma
tion in the weakest part of the respir
atory apparatus.
In the writer's opinion, the chief
causes of colds are heat which Is es
pecially .dangerous in Winter and sud
den changes of temperature. If one
could avoid hot rooms and bad air in
Winter he would rarely take cold. Sed
entary employment renders one pceu-
Fig. A Raspberry Linen Suit, Button
Trimmings.
llarly liable to colds on account of Its
depressing effect on the circulation.
When one's occupation necessitates his
sitting still for several hours he should
not be very heavily clad, and the tem
perature of the room should be 70 or
72 degrees Fahrenheit: then on going
out into the cold he should not only
don warm outer clothing, but should
walk briskly to quicken his circulation.
.Aji the art Inn neither of the air
linen. In fact, every well-bred suburban
woman considers her pongee suit to wear
when going to town an essential part of
her wardrobe.
The young woman invited for an after
noon of golf at the country club. If tr.e
trip is to be made by train, wears her
linen golfing suit, generally with a short
skirt showing neat tics, a lightweight
jacket and a tailored hat. Her soiling
cap she carries with her clubs, atid she
does not appear on the train with the
throat of her blouse turned in. her sleeve
rolled tip and "athletics" stanijKd on her
rough-and-ready manner. She reserves
all this for where it belongs, on the links.
The inexperienced young phi often
makes the mistake of traveling to the
suburbs or a country estate in too much
finery. A well-bred country hostess was
horrified to see stepping from the train
an invited guest all In pate blue mull
with a flower-crowned leghorn hat. Such
raiment will be needed during a week-end
visit or longer, hut tin muil gown and
flowered hat are parked in a steamer
trunk or wicker telescope and something
tailored is worn on the trip, even if it ia
warm.
Xo well-bred girl appears on a city street,
especially when shopping, in elbow
sleeves, without gloves or with the neck
of her blouse cut low. Such attire may
be worn by the Summer girl at beach
or mountain resort, on piazzas or front
steps In town, hut never when downtown
on business bent.
This rule applies to the business girl
also, who will make a much better ap
pearance in the eyes of her employers
and customers If she wears a high-necked
blouse and long sleeves at work. Th
tailored shirtwaist suit is what every
business girl should wear downtown in
Summer, and dress in lingerie effects
after working hours. It may seem hard
to stick to high collars all Summer, but
if the linen collar is worn in a sufficiently
large size it dors not cling to the neck,
and is cooler than tight-fitting lace col
lars or ribbons.
Another ill-bred thing that many girl".,1
particularly business girls, do is to wear
very thin blouses with brightly tinted,
ribbons in wide measure on their lin-f
gerie. Only the other day a young girl,
who served me in a department store
wore a blouse which was one mass of
lace insertion in the front. Her corset,
cover, a very cheap affair, showedi
through the lace, with a huge bow of
pink rihbon not less than four inches
wide! The effect was neither pretty nor.
lady-like. A real gentlewoman wears
white rihbon on her lingerie, and that in,
reasonable width.
White shoes and stockings are not pood
form on city streets. The young girl
going to a pirnlc or dance after business
hours may sometimes Indulge in them,
provided she is quite sure they will re
main clean and not become unsightly, hut
they are very bad form In business.
No well-bred girl goes to chureli in a
low-necked Summer blouse, without hat
or gloves. So common has this breach t'f
etiquette become that certain clergymen
have denounced ft from the pulpit.
PRCDEXLTB STAND1SII.
of Ordinary Colds
of the water will rust Iron, while their
combined action will, so are colds
caused neither by heat nor by cold, but
rather by a sudden transition from
eitoer to the other.
While it will he conceded as a well
known fact that a sudden transition
from heat to cold may cause a cold,
yet the further contention that transi
tion from cold to heat may equally
cause a cold, will, in some quarters, be
disputed. Nevertheless the latter state
ment is logical. If it is a fact that colds
come from disturbances of the circu
lation. The. vigor of the circulation is
proportional within limits to the tem
perature of the air that acts on It. The
mechanical arrangements in the body
for maintaining . animal heat adapt
themselves to this surrounding temper
ature, and when it changes suddenly,
whether from heat to cold, or from
cold to heat, the circulation is dis
turbed and may produce a cold.
The above theory proved practically
true- in the following Instance: Two
men crossed the Atlantic Orean in an
oien boat. The voyage lasted several
months, during that time storms were
encountered, and the men. while labor
ing at the oars, were often exhausted,
wet and chilled through, yet through
out the whole of their trying experi
ence neither caught cold. But when
having arrived safe on the other side,
they sought shelter and got thoroughly
warmed both' developed very heavy
colds. The reason that the colds de
veloped after and not during the ex
posure may have been that when the
hot blood, which the cold wind and
water had forced back to the internal
organs. suddenly returned under tho
Influence of warmth to the so long de
pleted mucous surfaces, it set up an in
flammation that manifested itself as a
cold a striking Instance of the effect
of a disturbed circulation.
H. W. Gardner states In the R!r-
mlngham Medical Review. March
18!R. that Nanscn wrote him that
neither he nor his companions caught
cold while in the. Arctic regions, but
that all of them Immediately took cold
when they returned to Norway. A simi
lar communication was received from
Kottllz. who was the medical officer to
the Jackson-Harmsworth expedition.
A. fhelmonski concludes from a num
ber of investigations that cold does not
In the ordinary sense, produce disease,
since its effect is but slight, merely pre
paring the way for micro-organisms. He
remarks that the grade of the reaction
of the skin to cold Indicates whether a
person will readily take cold or not, there
being no relation between the reaction
and the condition of the individual's
nutrition or of his temperature sense.
From these considerations he concludes
that the proper method of protecting
against cold Is not to wear an excessive
amount of clothing, but to stimulate the
skin to rapid reaction. All of which !s
interesting as explaining the why of thi
notorious fact that children who are
swathed in heavy clothing in Winter ar
more prone to cold than are poor children
who are more lightly clad.
Regarding influenza, which is nothing
more than a heavy cold. G. Gresswe!!,
in the Lancet. September in, l'HT. makes
the remarkable observation that he lias
found that healthy persons are more
likely to be infected with this disease
than are those who have been previously
in bad health.
The normal temperature of the human
body is. as everybody knows, about 9S.4
degrees Fahrenheit.
In conclusion, we may say that the
best way to avoid colds is to avoid
whenever possible, those conditions that
profoundly and suddenly disturb the cir
culation: that is to say, we should avoid
extremes In temperature, and when we
cannot do this we can at least modify
their effects by proper clothing. Also
we should, by systematic and vigorous
exercise and csre In the diet, keep the
blood free from Impurities and its cir
culation active. A general robust health
and an ability to recover quickly from
unavoidable systematic, disturbances ex
plains the Immunity some persons enjoy
Irom cuius Js. Y. World,