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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 31, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OREGON I AX. rORTI,AXD. MAY 31, 1908. SMI KKE5TQn jf Summer Styles for the HAPPY that mother who possesses .the ability, time and patience to make Summer raiment for her small son. Nowhere does factory workmanship prove so fickle and short lived as in the wash-clothing made for boys. While there is a certain tailored air about ready-to-wear garments, the thrifty mother can afford to sacrifice this quantity to durability. Only the best grades of factory-made clothing for children pay, for every mother knows the Ions. loose stitches on cheap goods. Anothrc defect in ready-to-wear clothing for small boys is care lessness In cutting, which often results In Immediate fraying of seams. I On the other hand, the woman who makes suits for her sons can test the material by first washing a sample at home. She will also whip- or bind her wide seams from sheer force of habit, and she will adjust her machine stitch ing so that seams will "stay "stitched." In buying cheap ready-to-wear cloth ing, It Is almost always necessary to sew on all the buttons and rework; all buttonholes before permitting the child to don the garment, and it is Just as easy to work them the first time and be done with it. Some mothers think that embroidered insigna for shields, cuffs, sailor collars, etc. forms an important item in the fiulsh for Summer clothing for boys. If the home-sewer cannot do this sort of ehmbroidery, she can buy anchors, shields, etc, already embroidered and deftly apply them upon the fabric of the suit. Another thing all he up-to-date pattern firms now issue admirably con structed patterns for" boys' clothing, and if the home-sewer is not quite sure about the correct methods of finishing off seams, adjusting bands, belts, pock ets, etc., she can easily rip up or ex amine a factory-made suit, to learn the trick. With these few suggestions as to the economy of making the small boy's clothing at home, let us turn our at tention to fabrics suitable for such, rai ment. Kor the small boy just out of dresses, unquestionably white pique, repp or wash poplin makes the smartest of "brst suits," and these are in one of two styles, the Russian coat and baggy trousers, or a full, deep-collared blouse, with the same baggy knickerbockers. Only a few faddish mothers this sea son are making their boys wear the snug-fitting knee pants with a bare space between the knee and the top of the sox. The snug-fltting pants do not wear as well as the baggy knlck erboeker. so dear to the boyish heart. For older boys,' white is little used, but there is a distinct demand for black and white check suits. Small young sters have these checked suits set off by. collars and .cuffs or shields of, the most vivid hues, such as grass green, bright blue, scarlet, etc. Older boys wear deep white collars with bright ties, in the shades mentioned above. ., These checked patterns - come la galatea cloth, imported and domestic, rhambraya, ginghams, madras and cheviots. Galatea cloth is one of the .moat dependable fabclcs for email boys, and it will wear an entire season if care is taken in selecting colors. Some new designs show stripes of blue or scarlet on a tan ground, many blues that will surely wash with white or scarlet stripes or figures, and a splen did gray and white combination that will defy Summer suns and Summer sand piles. The mother of two boys tells me that she doea not buy a variety of fabrics for their Summer clothing, but selects two full bolts of material which she first tests by washing a sample; then she makes these two materials up in various styles to secure variety. For instance, if she has selected a dark FIG. E TWO-PIECE SUIT blue chambray with a white hair-line stripe, she makes some of the little suits quite plain, with stitching for a finish. Some she trims with washable white braid and adds a white collar or shield, and again she makes up some with a trimming of dark blue wash braid. In this way she secures vari ety . in a color which ahe knows will launder and wear well and also be be coming to her boys. , "Windsor and harrow string ties in vivid coloring come to match narrow enameled belts, and add picturesque ness to otherwise simple suits. Kor play the enameled belt is not a good investment, as it cracks under rough usage. A plain suede belt or one of cloth to match the suit, interlined and stitched row upon row. Is far etter. It will hold starch so well that it does nol become mussy in the first wearing. These "wash belts are finished with but ton and buttonhole or with a plain mother-of-pearl or bone buckle which can be bought at any notion or button counter. Starting with two very mannish lit tle dresses, a number of good boys styles are shown today. The one-piece garment is always a time saver for the laundress, and figure A shows one with only under-arms and shoulder seams, finished with shoulder straps, cuffs and belt of embroidery or contrasting ma terial. In' the model the material was Holland, an excellent wash fabric in natural or tan color, trimmed with bands of tan and white embroidery. For hot weather this little costume can be made with short sleeves. Figure B shows the checked effect mentioned above. This was developed in black and white galatea, with a scarlet belt and tie. It is far better to have separate collars with tMa suit because several clean collars will be needed before the sensible little suit requires washing. Figure C shows the dependable Rus sian suit in light gpey-blue chambray. with belt and braid in very dark royal blue. In figure D will be' found one of the smart checked overcoats for small boys which any mother can evolve from a good quality of checked English worsted. This coat was in tan and brown, with collar of brown velvet. Figure E shows a common-sense, every-day suit for a boy between 6 and 12 years. It can be developed in wash fabrics or non-shrinking flannels, serge or Scotch mixtures. A final word to mothers: The day of the white shoe and Stocking, except for very small boys on dressy occasions, is past and gone. The brown shoe and stocking are back, and black patent leather . pumps or slippers are now worn with fine black stockings, not white. MART DEAN. SUMMER GIRL TRINKETS A MONO the "Fads and Follies of the Summer girl of 1908, her vivid neck wear certainly occupies first place. Its ever-increasing daintiness of color is al luring to the eye but destructive to the i. purse. Tailored collars in -white linen are embroidered with dots and figures of vivid colors, and with them must be worn a dainty tie, matching the collar exactly in coloring. In fact, these collars and ties are sold in sets, neither one be,ing com plete without the other. Young girls are wearing turnover or "Peter Pan" collars of soft linen in natural color, with button holed edges in green, blue, pink and brown. With these collars is worn a stiff bow of ribbon matching the embroidery in color. The ribbon is very wide about six or eight inches, and the bow must be a tailored one with short ends. Soft, flufly jabots of net and lace are crowding eac IN WASH FLANNEL Small Men other on the counters, and are growing in tavo? If odd belts are worn at all. they seem to be metallic in effect. The leather belt is dead and gone, the ribbon belt is part of the trimming of the gowr itself; but the separate belt is made of gilt or silver. Fig. D English Worsted Overcoat In Brown and Tan Cheeps. These belts come in gilt braid with large gold buckles, or in cloth of gold ribbon with enamaled buckles, set off by brilliant stones. Silver braid studded with cut steel heads makes a smart -looking belt if fastened with a silver buckle. For older women these silver belts ,ere seen i i. i Some Beauty THE toilet table of the modern beauty and the . shelves of drugstores all suggest the fact that vegetable rem edies are best of all for the human skin. "Cucumber Cream," "Lettuce Cosmetic," "Arbutus Lotion," these are only a few of the titles picked at random, and they should suggest to the woman who lives in small town, 6uburb, ' village or farm the wonderful possibilities of her own lit tle plot of ground. Then, too, there are delightful scents and sachets which any girl can make if she has a mere pocket handkerchief of a garden in her city back yard. Even the city girl without a garden plot can find uses for June, roses sent by men friends and the strawberries and the vege tables brought to her door by hucksters. In other articles I have spoken of the useful Qualties of tomatoes, horse-radish and other homely remedies for tan ' and freckles. In last week's article I gave the ever-reliable ormula for cucumber cream, invaluable alike to the woman of oily complexion or the victim of freckles. Today I am offering some formulas that are new to my readers, but which suggest great garden possibilities. , Lettuce Cream For healing tanned or irritated skin. Almond oil, 4 ounces: spermaceti, 1 ounce; white wax, 1 ounce; lettuce juice, 2 ounces. The lettuce must be scalded with boiling water, and allowed to stand a few minutes. Pour off the water and pound the lettuce to a paste in an earthen bowl or mortan, then strain through Cheesecloth. Melt the first in gredients in a double boiler over a very slow fire do not let them come to a boil, just melt them, then drop by drop add the cream with a fork until all the juice is added and the cream perfectly smooth and cold. Lavender Sachet Powder Fill sachet bags with this to scent your linen: Dried lavender flowers (powdered), 10 ounces; powdered benzoin, 3 ounces; cypress pow der, 6 ounces, and oil of lavender, IVi drachms. Cypress powder is made from reindeer moss, which is carefully picked over and then reduced to a powdir. A delightful sachet can be made of the dried lavender flowers alone, tied up In silko line bags. Lavender flowers dried and mixed with a small quantity of orris root and powdered cloves will keep moths away. Liquid Strawberry Rouge This is a de lightful rouge to use, and entirely harm less. It should be applied with a bit of absorbent cotton. Put three quarts of very ripe strawberries in a fruit jar and add to them 1 pint of distilled water. Set this Jar in a pan of water over a very slow fire and let it boll slowly for about two hours. T,hen strain through a fine sieve or cheesecloth. Let It get cold," then add the following Ingredients: De odorized alcohol. IS ounces; best Russian isinglass (dissolved), 30 grains: pure car mine, 15 grains: attar of roses. 4 drops: oil of neroll, 2 drops. This should be kept ih a dark and cool place, and always tightly corked. French Faca Powder. Take six large and very ripe carrots and scrape them into a bowl. Do likewise with a pink beetroot. Put this in ' a bag and squeeze out all the juice. Add to this about three ounces of pure corn starch, and 'expose it to the sun, stirring, it occasionally until the fluid has all evaporated. You will find that the dry corn starch is tintti a beautiful studded with jet ami finished with a jet i buckle or one in gun metal. ! The up-to-date Summer girl wears sev ' eral bangles. The newest of these is ! rather wide and set with one large stone, i either jade, imitation 'amethyst or coral. The gold in these bracelets is generally the dull finish. Stunning bangles come in a very narrow band of semi -precious stones, such as Montana diamonds (rhine stones). imitation sapphires, etc Kor the girl who has a thin, scrawny arm there is nothing smarter than - the new snake bracelet which encircles the arm several times, and the head of the snake fas Fig. C Russian Suit Chambray With Belt Darker Blue. brightened by brilliant green eyes of some inexpensive stone. ThLs snake bracelet should be worn alone, but several ban gles can be worn together. Parasols are vivid in coloring and gener ally in direct contrast to the gown with which they are worn. Green seems to be Hints in the Summer Garden pink. Sift this through fine gauze and then add the following ingredients: Powdered Venetian talc, 300 grains; powdered lycopodium, 300 grains; pow dered bergamot, 45 .grains, and pow dered bismuth, 7 grains. Sift all to gether once more and-keep in a tiny wooden box. Aromatic Vinegar. Delightful to use in your toilet wa'ter, also a most Fig. A One-Plece Dress In Tan-Colored Holland. agreeable disinfectant. Excellent for relaxed tissues or coarse skin. Laven der floweVs, 1 ounce; fresh tops of rosemary, thyme, rue, sage, wormwood and mint, ounce of each; Cala mus, nutmegs, cloves and cinnamon (bruised), 1 drachm of each; camphor, 1 drachm; alcohol, 2 ounces; strong wine vinegar, 1 quart. The camphor gum should be dissolved in the alco hol, then add the herbs, the spices, and, lastly, the vinegar. Let it stand for about 10 days or two weeks. Strain through cheesecloth. Chlckweed Water. An old-fashioned and harmless cure for obesity. Gather the fresh white-blossomed plant, and to every six handfuls add one quart of water. Let it boil slowly for an hour. In the bottom of a stone pitcher have several sticks of liquorice-wood (this is not necessary, but gives good flavor to the drink), and pour over the licquorice sticks the boiling tea. Add the sliced peel of a lemon. Drink three or four glasses of the chickweed water, cold, every day. Aromatic Foot Bath. For tired, sen sitive feet: 1 ounce of dried mint; I ounce of dried sage; 3 ounces of dried Angelica; A pound of Juniper berries and 1 pound of rosemary leaves. Boil all these herbs in five quarts of water for 20 minutes. Soak the feet for about 20 minutes in a basin of water to which a goodly quantity of the herb water has been added. KATHERINE MORTON. Married on log Jjiccn.se. New York Press It is a matter of record in the little town of Swatragh, Ireland, that an af- the popular color, as !t goes well with any gown except a red tone, and gowns with red tones should be put away until cold weather. The smartest and most practical handle is the tinted wooden han dle, matchirr the color of the parasol it self. The embroidered white linen par asol, so popular a year or two ago. Is not often seen. Occasionally they are carried by a girl all 'in white, but the linen is lined throughout with pink, blue, yellow or green china silk, and the handle of the parasol matches the lining in color. The silver mesh or the beaded bag is decidedly the proper thing in purses. In Grey-Blue and Braid In These silver purses come In German sil ver, and silver-plated on white metal, costing not half what the sterling purses do. For the girl with a slender income they answer every purpose. Next to the sllver-mesh purse comes the beaded purse with metal top. MARY BEAN. fectionate young couple were married on a dog iicense. Everybody was in a hurry, from the priest down, to have the ceremony completed. The bride groom the day before had paid 60 cents for a license for his favorife terrier, and in the dyn light of the church this was presented to the priest. The pair have been happy ever since. I had this of a native of Kathmelton, which is 35 miles from Swatragh. Sensible Women Laugh at Jokes A newspaper philosopher says "a wo man loves a man, really and truly, when she laughs at all his jokes." This is bright enough, as those things go, per haps, but it will bear abundant analysis when it comes to a solemn search for the truth which is precisely what the news paper philosopher hoped to avoid, doubtless. Women have their own peculiar ideas about these things, we think. They laugh at their husband's jokes for many reasons. First and foremost, let us char itably presume, if for nothing else, be cause the jokes ' are good, and worth laughing at. Few husbands are conde scending enough to tell many jokes to their wives, it should be remembered. As a rule men hold themselves more able than women to appreciate wit and fun. Nobody can explain just why man wraps himself in this particular mantle of sup posed mental superiority, but he does. All honest and frank men will admit it. Therefore, the telling of a joke by pater familias is more or less of an important and epoch-making event in the average household; hence at the psychological mo ment, unless the woman in the case hap pens to make a mistake, the appreciative wifely guffaw is in evidence. But this is sjot an infallible proof of unreasoning conjugal affection, for all that; it may be merely the homage duty pays to egotism. The women, though, we should remem ber, move oft in a most mysterious way their wonders to perform. The truth is, and investigation would doubtless so dis close, the woman who laughs moat at her husband's jokes invariably is likewise the woman who wears the prettiest hats and smartest frocks in her neighborhood, and the most of them! Not only this, but she dresses her children a little neater and a little more generously than her friends who pay not so much attention to their husband's jokes. She is simply a diplomat of keen perception, and she turns to a good account every laugh given vent to on behalf of alleged witticisms, may hap neither immensely funny nor in structive. None of this is to a woman's discredit. Far fronY it. indeed. It pleases her hus band to have hi jokes laughed at; there fore she does a good act when she strives to pleaee him. He warms toward man kind in general before the sunshine of her apparent appreciation, and toward his own domestic clrcie in particular. Every body is happy all the way around. But the test is not a final evidence of love eternal and supreme, for all the good that comes of it. Washington (D. C.) Dispatch. An Old Maid's Husband. Uppincott's A certain spinster was being condoled with because she had no husband. "Why," she said, I don't want a hus band. I'm just as well off. You see, I have a dog and he growls; I have a parrot and he swears: I have a cat and lie stays out nights., Now, why should I get married?" . The Week-End ""cHIS is the season of the year when 1 I the suburban and country hostess shows to best advantage. Weary city folk are anxious to escape town noises and grime, and week-end invi tations are received with appreciation and favor. The suburban hostess sud denly appears in the eyes of her city . friends as an angel of mercy. She should do all in her power to emphasize her popularity, and to do this. It Is not neceseary-to entertain lavishly or to spend more money than the family exchequer will permit. The out-of-town hostess should re member that the object of the average week-end party is rest. Therefore she will avoid fusslness and over-entertaining. She Will give her gueets the opportunities for rest and solitude which they will probably crave. Select your party with care, bring ing together only congenial guests, and issue your Invitations so far In ad vance that It will not be necessary to till out the list, with an odd girl or man who may not be .congenial. Do not Invite more girls than men. Bal ance your guests carefully. Do not invite more guests than your house will accommodate comfortably. Better a quartet of guests than com fortably disposed In separate bedrooms, than two or three girls crowded into one bedroom of medium size. Your invitations should be written in the first person, and give some defi nite information to your guests. Tell them the day on which they are ex pected to arrive, Friday or Saturday, and name definitely the length of time they are expected to stay. Never say a "day or so." State clearly: "We will be pleased to have you with us from Friday to Monday." Generally speak ing, men leave town Saturday noon and expect to return by an early train Monday morning. Girls often remain over until noon or afternoon on Mon day. Enclose a tlmecard or state the best trains for your guests to take, and t you live some distance from the depot, and have no carriage or motor-car with which to meet guests, tell them precisely what trolley-car to take to reach your house, or give information as to village hacks, etc. Suggest also in your invitation any spe-' cial amusements that you may be plan ning, such as a trip to the country club with tennis, golf or a dance, if one is planned. This gives your guests a hint as to what they will need in clothing. At the hour when your first guests are to arrive, be in readiness to receive them. If you have but one maid, so arrange your work that you will be dressed and on the porch or in the reception hatl when the guests come in. A flurried lit tle housewife, suggesting domestic prob lems, is not a restful hostess to greet ar riving guests. - - In each guest room have the beds fresh ly made, plenty of towels, a supply of, stationery, pen. Ink, etc., and if your garden supplies them, fresh flowers in a dainty vase. Guests will go at once to their rooms to rid themselves of travel grime, and you can send up tea or a cooling driiik, as you think best. Often just a pitcher of ice water is placed in each room, and other drinks are served after the guests come downstairs. Plan amusements for your guests that will have a distinct outdoor and country flavor. If you belong to a country club, by all means arrange a jaunt of some sort there. If your party runs from Fri day till Monday and you have distinctly tired city folks to entertain, let your first evening be one of quiet on your own porch, and arrange for your dance or card party Saturday night. State distinctly the hour of your Sunday morning breakfast, and if you belong to the growing class of families who have only a light breakfast, such as fruit, rolls and coffee, allow your guests the oriv ilege of eating these in bed. Even with FIG. B NEW CHECKERED EFFECT, IN BLACK AND WHITE WITH SCARLET BELT AND TIE. Hostess one maid, you can serve theee Toom-to-room breakfasts very easily.- If vour guests are non-church-going folk, do not urge the Sunday morning service upon them. They may prefer walking to the vesper service through country lanes. And if they are churchgoers, be sure that you know the hours of service and the loca tion of the various churches. As. a rule at house parties, however, on Sunday morning guests are left to their own devices, and the hostess plans noth ing before the lunch hourC Do not make your guests feci that you are putting yourself out frantically to provide entertainment. Bo restful nd your guests will fall under your placid In fluence and reap real benefit from your week-end party. , , No matter how early your guests may leave Monday morningyyou must b ut to see them off, and your servant must provide a breakfast. Incidentally many suburban and coun try hostesses now entertain only over the week-end, and servants know that work must be arranged accordingly. This leaves the suburbanite free to her own devices during the mid-week. PRUDENCE STANDISH. BREAKFAST DISHES How to Serve Strawberrteo In few households is this done correctli you have very large, sound berried not hull them nor cut oft any ofl sterna, but wash them in very cold w. in a colander, shaking them lightly draining thoroughly. Then wash green leaves you may have at ha:l strawberry leaves If you live in tl country, or grape leaves: or in towil any bit of greenery, like chicory parsley. Lay this on a flat plate, heaH a single service of strawberries upon and pass with the berries powdered I sugar. Geranium leaves are also tasty I with the berries, just to provide the gre recti background. Mixed Fmita Every refrlegerat has its quota of fresh fruit left-over Perhaps you have a bit of plneappl left from last night's dinner, either cu. in blocks or shredded. With this mi banana, cut In dice, a few strawberrte: and over all squeeze' a goodly ' measure of orange juice. Serve very cold in glasses or sherbet cups. ml Economy Ekki The foundation of this dish is cold boiled potatoes. . Select large potatoes and cut thick slices length wise, so you have the largest oval' pos sible. Have ready some boiling hot lard or clarified fat. Drop Into this the po tato ovals and cook until golden brown. Drain thoroughly. Arrange on a lioiL platter with a rasher- or two of bacon cut thin and cooked very crisp, on each slice of potato. Then poach an egg for each person, and lay this on a slice of potato with the rasher of bacon in be tween. A sprig of parsley on one 8idv and you have a very tasty service. Be sure your poached eggs are drained very dry, as the rasher of bacon and potato should be very crisp. - - - Eggs and Tomato In Ramaklni Riittoc v-rtiir fnrii virtual rnmnkln rtlKhOA and fit into the bottom of each one-half j of a ripe tomato, laid with the skin down. Add just a little water and bake until the tomato is tender. Now, scoop out a little of the baked tomato heart, leaving a cup or. shell of tomato. For six portions, break into a bowl two gg; a teaspoon of melted butter, one table spoon of cream, a little onion Juice, tablespoon of grated Parmesan or Eng lish cheese, a pinch each of salt, sugar and pepper, and beat until creamy." Fill the hollows of the tomatoes with this custard, set in the oven until it bakes firmly, garnish with a tiny sprig of parsley in each portion and serve in the ramikln dishes as cooked. ke I op f