THE SUNDAY OREGON I AX. rORTI,AXD. MAY 31, 1908.
SMI KKE5TQn jf
Summer Styles for the
HAPPY that mother who possesses
.the ability, time and patience to
make Summer raiment for her
small son. Nowhere does factory
workmanship prove so fickle and short
lived as in the wash-clothing made for
boys. While there is a certain tailored
air about ready-to-wear garments, the
thrifty mother can afford to sacrifice
this quantity to durability. Only the
best grades of factory-made clothing
for children pay, for every mother
knows the Ions. loose stitches on
cheap goods. Anothrc defect in ready-to-wear
clothing for small boys is care
lessness In cutting, which often results
In Immediate fraying of seams. I
On the other hand, the woman who
makes suits for her sons can test the
material by first washing a sample at
home. She will also whip- or bind her
wide seams from sheer force of habit,
and she will adjust her machine stitch
ing so that seams will "stay "stitched."
In buying cheap ready-to-wear cloth
ing, It Is almost always necessary to
sew on all the buttons and rework; all
buttonholes before permitting the child
to don the garment, and it is Just as
easy to work them the first time and
be done with it.
Some mothers think that embroidered
insigna for shields, cuffs, sailor collars,
etc. forms an important item in the
fiulsh for Summer clothing for boys. If
the home-sewer cannot do this sort of
ehmbroidery, she can buy anchors,
shields, etc, already embroidered and
deftly apply them upon the fabric of
the suit.
Another thing all he up-to-date
pattern firms now issue admirably con
structed patterns for" boys' clothing,
and if the home-sewer is not quite sure
about the correct methods of finishing
off seams, adjusting bands, belts, pock
ets, etc., she can easily rip up or ex
amine a factory-made suit, to learn the
trick.
With these few suggestions as to the
economy of making the small boy's
clothing at home, let us turn our at
tention to fabrics suitable for such, rai
ment. Kor the small boy just out of dresses,
unquestionably white pique, repp or
wash poplin makes the smartest of
"brst suits," and these are in one of
two styles, the Russian coat and baggy
trousers, or a full, deep-collared blouse,
with the same baggy knickerbockers.
Only a few faddish mothers this sea
son are making their boys wear the
snug-fitting knee pants with a bare
space between the knee and the top
of the sox. The snug-fltting pants do
not wear as well as the baggy knlck
erboeker. so dear to the boyish heart.
For older boys,' white is little used,
but there is a distinct demand for black
and white check suits. Small young
sters have these checked suits set off
by. collars and .cuffs or shields of, the
most vivid hues, such as grass green,
bright blue, scarlet, etc. Older boys
wear deep white collars with bright
ties, in the shades mentioned above. .,
These checked patterns - come la
galatea cloth, imported and domestic,
rhambraya, ginghams, madras and
cheviots. Galatea cloth is one of the
.moat dependable fabclcs for email boys,
and it will wear an entire season if
care is taken in selecting colors. Some
new designs show stripes of blue or
scarlet on a tan ground, many blues
that will surely wash with white or
scarlet stripes or figures, and a splen
did gray and white combination that
will defy Summer suns and Summer
sand piles.
The mother of two boys tells me
that she doea not buy a variety of
fabrics for their Summer clothing, but
selects two full bolts of material which
she first tests by washing a sample;
then she makes these two materials up
in various styles to secure variety. For
instance, if she has selected a dark
FIG. E TWO-PIECE SUIT
blue chambray with a white hair-line
stripe, she makes some of the little
suits quite plain, with stitching for a
finish. Some she trims with washable
white braid and adds a white collar or
shield, and again she makes up some
with a trimming of dark blue wash
braid. In this way she secures vari
ety . in a color which ahe knows will
launder and wear well and also be be
coming to her boys. ,
"Windsor and harrow string ties in
vivid coloring come to match narrow
enameled belts, and add picturesque
ness to otherwise simple suits. Kor
play the enameled belt is not a good
investment, as it cracks under rough
usage. A plain suede belt or one of
cloth to match the suit, interlined and
stitched row upon row. Is far etter.
It will hold starch so well that it does
nol become mussy in the first wearing.
These "wash belts are finished with but
ton and buttonhole or with a plain
mother-of-pearl or bone buckle which
can be bought at any notion or button
counter.
Starting with two very mannish lit
tle dresses, a number of good boys
styles are shown today. The one-piece
garment is always a time saver for the
laundress, and figure A shows one with
only under-arms and shoulder seams,
finished with shoulder straps, cuffs and
belt of embroidery or contrasting ma
terial. In' the model the material was
Holland, an excellent wash fabric in
natural or tan color, trimmed with
bands of tan and white embroidery.
For hot weather this little costume can
be made with short sleeves.
Figure B shows the checked effect
mentioned above. This was developed
in black and white galatea, with a
scarlet belt and tie. It is far better to
have separate collars with tMa suit
because several clean collars will be
needed before the sensible little suit
requires washing.
Figure C shows the dependable Rus
sian suit in light gpey-blue chambray.
with belt and braid in very dark royal
blue.
In figure D will be' found one of the
smart checked overcoats for small boys
which any mother can evolve from a
good quality of checked English
worsted. This coat was in tan and
brown, with collar of brown velvet.
Figure E shows a common-sense,
every-day suit for a boy between 6 and
12 years. It can be developed in wash
fabrics or non-shrinking flannels, serge
or Scotch mixtures.
A final word to mothers: The day of
the white shoe and Stocking, except for
very small boys on dressy occasions, is
past and gone. The brown shoe and
stocking are back, and black patent
leather . pumps or slippers are now
worn with fine black stockings, not
white.
MART DEAN.
SUMMER GIRL
TRINKETS
A MONO the "Fads and Follies of the
Summer girl of 1908, her vivid neck
wear certainly occupies first place. Its
ever-increasing daintiness of color is al
luring to the eye but destructive to the
i. purse. Tailored collars in -white linen are
embroidered with dots and figures of vivid
colors, and with them must be worn a
dainty tie, matching the collar exactly in
coloring. In fact, these collars and ties
are sold in sets, neither one be,ing com
plete without the other. Young girls are
wearing turnover or "Peter Pan" collars
of soft linen in natural color, with button
holed edges in green, blue, pink and
brown. With these collars is worn a stiff
bow of ribbon matching the embroidery in
color. The ribbon is very wide about six
or eight inches, and the bow must be a
tailored one with short ends. Soft, flufly
jabots of net and lace are crowding eac
IN WASH FLANNEL
Small Men
other on the counters, and are growing in
tavo?
If odd belts are worn at all. they seem
to be metallic in effect. The leather belt
is dead and gone, the ribbon belt is part
of the trimming of the gowr itself; but
the separate belt is made of gilt or silver.
Fig. D English Worsted Overcoat In
Brown and Tan Cheeps.
These belts come in gilt braid with large
gold buckles, or in cloth of gold ribbon
with enamaled buckles, set off by brilliant
stones. Silver braid studded with cut
steel heads makes a smart -looking belt
if fastened with a silver buckle. For
older women these silver belts ,ere seen
i i. i
Some Beauty
THE toilet table of the modern beauty
and the . shelves of drugstores all
suggest the fact that vegetable rem
edies are best of all for the human skin.
"Cucumber Cream," "Lettuce Cosmetic,"
"Arbutus Lotion," these are only a few
of the titles picked at random, and they
should suggest to the woman who lives
in small town, 6uburb, ' village or farm
the wonderful possibilities of her own lit
tle plot of ground.
Then, too, there are delightful scents
and sachets which any girl can make
if she has a mere pocket handkerchief
of a garden in her city back yard. Even
the city girl without a garden plot can
find uses for June, roses sent by men
friends and the strawberries and the vege
tables brought to her door by hucksters.
In other articles I have spoken of the
useful Qualties of tomatoes, horse-radish
and other homely remedies for tan ' and
freckles. In last week's article I gave
the ever-reliable ormula for cucumber
cream, invaluable alike to the woman of
oily complexion or the victim of freckles.
Today I am offering some formulas that
are new to my readers, but which suggest
great garden possibilities. ,
Lettuce Cream For healing tanned or
irritated skin. Almond oil, 4 ounces:
spermaceti, 1 ounce; white wax, 1 ounce;
lettuce juice, 2 ounces. The lettuce must
be scalded with boiling water, and allowed
to stand a few minutes. Pour off the
water and pound the lettuce to a paste in
an earthen bowl or mortan, then strain
through Cheesecloth. Melt the first in
gredients in a double boiler over a very
slow fire do not let them come to a boil,
just melt them, then drop by drop add
the cream with a fork until all the juice
is added and the cream perfectly smooth
and cold.
Lavender Sachet Powder Fill sachet
bags with this to scent your linen: Dried
lavender flowers (powdered), 10 ounces;
powdered benzoin, 3 ounces; cypress pow
der, 6 ounces, and oil of lavender, IVi
drachms. Cypress powder is made from
reindeer moss, which is carefully picked
over and then reduced to a powdir. A
delightful sachet can be made of the dried
lavender flowers alone, tied up In silko
line bags. Lavender flowers dried and
mixed with a small quantity of orris root
and powdered cloves will keep moths
away.
Liquid Strawberry Rouge This is a de
lightful rouge to use, and entirely harm
less. It should be applied with a bit of
absorbent cotton. Put three quarts of
very ripe strawberries in a fruit jar and
add to them 1 pint of distilled water.
Set this Jar in a pan of water over a very
slow fire and let it boll slowly for about
two hours. T,hen strain through a fine
sieve or cheesecloth. Let It get cold,"
then add the following Ingredients: De
odorized alcohol. IS ounces; best Russian
isinglass (dissolved), 30 grains: pure car
mine, 15 grains: attar of roses. 4 drops:
oil of neroll, 2 drops. This should be
kept ih a dark and cool place, and always
tightly corked.
French Faca Powder. Take six large
and very ripe carrots and scrape them
into a bowl. Do likewise with a pink
beetroot. Put this in ' a bag and
squeeze out all the juice. Add to this
about three ounces of pure corn starch,
and 'expose it to the sun, stirring, it
occasionally until the fluid has all
evaporated. You will find that the
dry corn starch is tintti a beautiful
studded with jet ami finished with a jet
i buckle or one in gun metal.
! The up-to-date Summer girl wears sev
' eral bangles. The newest of these is
! rather wide and set with one large stone,
i either jade, imitation 'amethyst or coral.
The gold in these bracelets is generally
the dull finish. Stunning bangles come in
a very narrow band of semi -precious
stones, such as Montana diamonds (rhine
stones). imitation sapphires, etc Kor the
girl who has a thin, scrawny arm there is
nothing smarter than - the new snake
bracelet which encircles the arm several
times, and the head of the snake fas
Fig. C Russian Suit
Chambray With Belt
Darker Blue.
brightened by brilliant green eyes of some
inexpensive stone. ThLs snake bracelet
should be worn alone, but several ban
gles can be worn together.
Parasols are vivid in coloring and gener
ally in direct contrast to the gown with
which they are worn. Green seems to be
Hints in the Summer Garden
pink. Sift this through fine gauze and
then add the following ingredients:
Powdered Venetian talc, 300 grains;
powdered lycopodium, 300 grains; pow
dered bergamot, 45 .grains, and pow
dered bismuth, 7 grains. Sift all to
gether once more and-keep in a tiny
wooden box.
Aromatic Vinegar. Delightful to
use in your toilet wa'ter, also a most
Fig. A One-Plece Dress In Tan-Colored
Holland.
agreeable disinfectant. Excellent for
relaxed tissues or coarse skin. Laven
der floweVs, 1 ounce; fresh tops of
rosemary, thyme, rue, sage, wormwood
and mint, ounce of each; Cala
mus, nutmegs, cloves and cinnamon
(bruised), 1 drachm of each; camphor,
1 drachm; alcohol, 2 ounces; strong
wine vinegar, 1 quart. The camphor
gum should be dissolved in the alco
hol, then add the herbs, the spices, and,
lastly, the vinegar. Let it stand for
about 10 days or two weeks. Strain
through cheesecloth.
Chlckweed Water. An old-fashioned
and harmless cure for obesity. Gather
the fresh white-blossomed plant, and
to every six handfuls add one quart
of water. Let it boil slowly for an
hour. In the bottom of a stone pitcher
have several sticks of liquorice-wood
(this is not necessary, but gives good
flavor to the drink), and pour over
the licquorice sticks the boiling tea.
Add the sliced peel of a lemon. Drink
three or four glasses of the chickweed
water, cold, every day.
Aromatic Foot Bath. For tired, sen
sitive feet: 1 ounce of dried mint; I
ounce of dried sage; 3 ounces of dried
Angelica; A pound of Juniper berries
and 1 pound of rosemary leaves. Boil
all these herbs in five quarts of water
for 20 minutes. Soak the feet for
about 20 minutes in a basin of water
to which a goodly quantity of the herb
water has been added.
KATHERINE MORTON.
Married on log Jjiccn.se.
New York Press
It is a matter of record in the little
town of Swatragh, Ireland, that an af-
the popular color, as !t goes well with
any gown except a red tone, and gowns
with red tones should be put away until
cold weather. The smartest and most
practical handle is the tinted wooden han
dle, matchirr the color of the parasol it
self. The embroidered white linen par
asol, so popular a year or two ago. Is not
often seen. Occasionally they are carried
by a girl all 'in white, but the linen is
lined throughout with pink, blue, yellow
or green china silk, and the handle of the
parasol matches the lining in color.
The silver mesh or the beaded bag is
decidedly the proper thing in purses.
In Grey-Blue
and Braid In
These silver purses come In German sil
ver, and silver-plated on white metal,
costing not half what the sterling purses
do. For the girl with a slender income
they answer every purpose. Next to the
sllver-mesh purse comes the beaded purse
with metal top. MARY BEAN.
fectionate young couple were married
on a dog iicense. Everybody was in a
hurry, from the priest down, to have
the ceremony completed. The bride
groom the day before had paid 60 cents
for a license for his favorife terrier,
and in the dyn light of the church this
was presented to the priest. The pair
have been happy ever since. I had this
of a native of Kathmelton, which is 35
miles from Swatragh.
Sensible Women
Laugh at Jokes
A newspaper philosopher says "a wo
man loves a man, really and truly, when
she laughs at all his jokes." This is
bright enough, as those things go, per
haps, but it will bear abundant analysis
when it comes to a solemn search for the
truth which is precisely what the news
paper philosopher hoped to avoid,
doubtless.
Women have their own peculiar ideas
about these things, we think. They
laugh at their husband's jokes for many
reasons. First and foremost, let us char
itably presume, if for nothing else, be
cause the jokes ' are good, and worth
laughing at. Few husbands are conde
scending enough to tell many jokes to
their wives, it should be remembered. As
a rule men hold themselves more able
than women to appreciate wit and fun.
Nobody can explain just why man wraps
himself in this particular mantle of sup
posed mental superiority, but he does.
All honest and frank men will admit it.
Therefore, the telling of a joke by pater
familias is more or less of an important
and epoch-making event in the average
household; hence at the psychological mo
ment, unless the woman in the case hap
pens to make a mistake, the appreciative
wifely guffaw is in evidence. But this
is sjot an infallible proof of unreasoning
conjugal affection, for all that; it may
be merely the homage duty pays to
egotism.
The women, though, we should remem
ber, move oft in a most mysterious way
their wonders to perform. The truth is,
and investigation would doubtless so dis
close, the woman who laughs moat at
her husband's jokes invariably is likewise
the woman who wears the prettiest hats
and smartest frocks in her neighborhood,
and the most of them! Not only this, but
she dresses her children a little neater
and a little more generously than her
friends who pay not so much attention
to their husband's jokes. She is simply a
diplomat of keen perception, and she turns
to a good account every laugh given vent
to on behalf of alleged witticisms, may
hap neither immensely funny nor in
structive. None of this is to a woman's discredit.
Far fronY it. indeed. It pleases her hus
band to have hi jokes laughed at; there
fore she does a good act when she strives
to pleaee him. He warms toward man
kind in general before the sunshine of her
apparent appreciation, and toward his
own domestic clrcie in particular. Every
body is happy all the way around. But
the test is not a final evidence of love
eternal and supreme, for all the good
that comes of it. Washington (D. C.)
Dispatch.
An Old Maid's Husband.
Uppincott's
A certain spinster was being condoled
with because she had no husband.
"Why," she said, I don't want a hus
band. I'm just as well off. You see, I
have a dog and he growls; I have a
parrot and he swears: I have a cat and
lie stays out nights., Now, why should I
get married?" .
The Week-End
""cHIS is the season of the year when 1
I the suburban and country hostess
shows to best advantage. Weary
city folk are anxious to escape town
noises and grime, and week-end invi
tations are received with appreciation
and favor. The suburban hostess sud
denly appears in the eyes of her city .
friends as an angel of mercy.
She should do all in her power to
emphasize her popularity, and to do
this. It Is not neceseary-to entertain
lavishly or to spend more money than
the family exchequer will permit.
The out-of-town hostess should re
member that the object of the average
week-end party is rest. Therefore she
will avoid fusslness and over-entertaining.
She Will give her gueets the
opportunities for rest and solitude
which they will probably crave.
Select your party with care, bring
ing together only congenial guests, and
issue your Invitations so far In ad
vance that It will not be necessary to
till out the list, with an odd girl or
man who may not be .congenial. Do
not Invite more girls than men. Bal
ance your guests carefully.
Do not invite more guests than your
house will accommodate comfortably.
Better a quartet of guests than com
fortably disposed In separate bedrooms,
than two or three girls crowded into
one bedroom of medium size.
Your invitations should be written
in the first person, and give some defi
nite information to your guests. Tell
them the day on which they are ex
pected to arrive, Friday or Saturday,
and name definitely the length of time
they are expected to stay. Never say
a "day or so." State clearly: "We will
be pleased to have you with us from
Friday to Monday." Generally speak
ing, men leave town Saturday noon
and expect to return by an early train
Monday morning. Girls often remain
over until noon or afternoon on Mon
day. Enclose a tlmecard or state the best
trains for your guests to take, and t
you live some distance from the depot,
and have no carriage or motor-car
with which to meet guests, tell them
precisely what trolley-car to take to
reach your house, or give information as
to village hacks, etc.
Suggest also in your invitation any spe-'
cial amusements that you may be plan
ning, such as a trip to the country club
with tennis, golf or a dance, if one is
planned. This gives your guests a hint
as to what they will need in clothing.
At the hour when your first guests are
to arrive, be in readiness to receive them.
If you have but one maid, so arrange
your work that you will be dressed and
on the porch or in the reception hatl
when the guests come in. A flurried lit
tle housewife, suggesting domestic prob
lems, is not a restful hostess to greet ar
riving guests. - -
In each guest room have the beds fresh
ly made, plenty of towels, a supply of,
stationery, pen. Ink, etc., and if your
garden supplies them, fresh flowers in a
dainty vase.
Guests will go at once to their rooms to
rid themselves of travel grime, and you
can send up tea or a cooling driiik, as
you think best. Often just a pitcher of
ice water is placed in each room, and
other drinks are served after the guests
come downstairs.
Plan amusements for your guests that
will have a distinct outdoor and country
flavor. If you belong to a country club,
by all means arrange a jaunt of some
sort there. If your party runs from Fri
day till Monday and you have distinctly
tired city folks to entertain, let your first
evening be one of quiet on your own
porch, and arrange for your dance or
card party Saturday night.
State distinctly the hour of your Sunday
morning breakfast, and if you belong to
the growing class of families who have
only a light breakfast, such as fruit, rolls
and coffee, allow your guests the oriv
ilege of eating these in bed. Even with
FIG. B NEW CHECKERED EFFECT, IN BLACK AND WHITE WITH
SCARLET BELT AND TIE.
Hostess
one maid, you can serve theee Toom-to-room
breakfasts very easily.- If vour
guests are non-church-going folk, do not
urge the Sunday morning service upon
them. They may prefer walking to the
vesper service through country lanes. And
if they are churchgoers, be sure that you
know the hours of service and the loca
tion of the various churches.
As. a rule at house parties, however, on
Sunday morning guests are left to their
own devices, and the hostess plans noth
ing before the lunch hourC
Do not make your guests feci that you
are putting yourself out frantically to
provide entertainment. Bo restful nd
your guests will fall under your placid In
fluence and reap real benefit from your
week-end party. , ,
No matter how early your guests may
leave Monday morningyyou must b ut
to see them off, and your servant must
provide a breakfast.
Incidentally many suburban and coun
try hostesses now entertain only over the
week-end, and servants know that work
must be arranged accordingly. This
leaves the suburbanite free to her own
devices during the mid-week.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
BREAKFAST
DISHES
How to Serve Strawberrteo In
few households is this done correctli
you have very large, sound berried
not hull them nor cut oft any ofl
sterna, but wash them in very cold w.
in a colander, shaking them lightly
draining thoroughly. Then wash
green leaves you may have at ha:l
strawberry leaves If you live in tl
country, or grape leaves: or in towil
any bit of greenery, like chicory
parsley. Lay this on a flat plate, heaH
a single service of strawberries upon
and pass with the berries powdered I
sugar. Geranium leaves are also tasty I
with the berries, just to provide the gre
recti
background.
Mixed Fmita Every refrlegerat
has its quota of fresh fruit left-over
Perhaps you have a bit of plneappl
left from last night's dinner, either cu.
in blocks or shredded. With this mi
banana, cut In dice, a few strawberrte:
and over all squeeze' a goodly ' measure
of orange juice. Serve very cold in
glasses or sherbet cups.
ml
Economy Ekki The foundation of
this dish is cold boiled potatoes. . Select
large potatoes and cut thick slices length
wise, so you have the largest oval' pos
sible. Have ready some boiling hot lard
or clarified fat. Drop Into this the po
tato ovals and cook until golden brown.
Drain thoroughly. Arrange on a lioiL
platter with a rasher- or two of bacon
cut thin and cooked very crisp, on each
slice of potato. Then poach an egg for
each person, and lay this on a slice of
potato with the rasher of bacon in be
tween. A sprig of parsley on one 8idv
and you have a very tasty service. Be
sure your poached eggs are drained very
dry, as the rasher of bacon and potato
should be very crisp.
- - -
Eggs and Tomato In Ramaklni
Riittoc v-rtiir fnrii virtual rnmnkln rtlKhOA
and fit into the bottom of each one-half j
of a ripe tomato, laid with the skin
down. Add just a little water and bake
until the tomato is tender. Now, scoop
out a little of the baked tomato heart,
leaving a cup or. shell of tomato. For
six portions, break into a bowl two gg;
a teaspoon of melted butter, one table
spoon of cream, a little onion Juice,
tablespoon of grated Parmesan or Eng
lish cheese, a pinch each of salt, sugar
and pepper, and beat until creamy." Fill
the hollows of the tomatoes with this
custard, set in the oven until it bakes
firmly, garnish with a tiny sprig of
parsley in each portion and serve in the
ramikln dishes as cooked.
ke I
op f