The Sunday Oregonian., April 12, 1908, Magazine Section, Page 8, Image 56

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2W Z7ZZXm&5 uiERIGAPf JUFZE5
HY FHANK O A ftVKNTKH
TiA K H a sen t with nw on t h mud
veranda of the nniil hotel at Kn
tohbe atltl look out over Lak'
Victoria, while I t'll you .utitic t h 1 tiK of
tlrlw V R.md a pro tor to rut which th
HrftlMh have recently added to their
phnre of the white man' hurden.- You
had bet keep your huts i'n. There nre
lizards and h orplons In the thatched
roof overhead, arid some may fall down
upon un as we talk. I advise you. also,
to tic your fdtors thtrht. and by no means
to rcM your hare feet on the floor. It
Is true It h plateretl with cow dun
and that onht to keep out the ants and
th( jhtKc r. The latter insects, how
ever, tiavo a way of erawMnK In under
one's toenails and lay I up little sacks
of eRRs in the skin, which. If they
hatch, may cause us t he ttis of our
toes. I have had 10 .tiKers taken out
of my feet since I came In to t:;nnda.
and now, Kpif ras, my native servant.
Koes over my toe every morninjr.
1 o you see that black band niov hiR
across the path down there in front?
It Is made up of ants which will at
tack you if you come near It. They
nre the famous warrior ants, whose hite
feels like ted-hot pinchers and whose
heads have N be turn from their bodies
before they will let ro. They are far
more dauRcroiiH than that baby lion,
who Is tied with n t lotlnwilne about his
neck to a tree nearby. Ho is only about
as biff as a Scotch collie, and is not old
enough to know how stronw he Is. He
was brought In last night by a traveler
from Lake Tanganyika, who also owns
the two sray parrots with red tails,
who. perched in the tree above it, aie
alternately whistling and scolding.
On thr l-'qimtnr.
Kefore we heein our talk let us look
around and try to realize when1 we are.
Thif mud hotel is called the K ua tor ia .
It is situated right on the equator, and
by soreadiuK out our legs, we could al
most straddle the same. Nevertheless,
we nre about tliOO feet above t tie sea,
nd the cool breezes from Vtctoj-ia Lake
make the air as delightful as Virginia
In June. There are oranges and lemons
S-row tug out there in the garden, great
beds of feathery papyrus are waving
to and fro on the shores, and we can
see tall palms with their whispering
1 eaves everywhere.
are light on the edge of Victoria
N van fa. about as fur inland as the
western shores of Luke Krie are in
from New York and right In the heart
rf the African Continent. That lake
was not known to the world until about
50 years ago. and today a large part of
the lands surrounding it are unex
plored. The equator goe right through
the lake, and It is only about HO miles
south of It that the (terman possessions
begin. This part of Lake Victoria be
longs to (ireat Britain, and all the vast
territory extending from here to the
Mediterranean, including I 'can da. the
Soudan and Kgypt. Is practically under
the control of John Hull. He has every
foot of land on each side of the Nile,
which begins its course by flowing out
of Luke Victoria at Ripon Kalis, not
far from here, and winds Its way for
":0ft miles, before it empties into the
Mediterranean Sea. As the erow flies.,
the distance is farther than from Phila
delphia to the Creat Salt Lake; and the
country contains some of the richest
lands upon earth. Kvcryone knows of
the wealth of Kgypt, which has never
been so rich as since the British took
hold. The Soudan has vast territories
equally fertile; and I'ganda. away
down here at the Nile's source, among
the highest of the African mountains,
is in some respects richer than all.
T ho I " k n (I a V ro t X't o rate.
Indeed, the rinslish officials tell me
that I'ganda is the cream of the African
continent. I have now been traveling
some weeks through it. and I believe they
are right. There is no other place where
so many valuable crops can be grown.
In some of t tie provinces the natives
raise grain with practically no cultivn-t-on.
in others, coffee grows wild, and
everywhere there are bananas and other
tropical fruit, 'in another letter I shall
write of the great possibilities in cotton,
which is already being raised here and
there; and shall treat of the stock-growing
prospects which promts.' to make
I'ganda t he great meat basket of Kng
land The land is one of great forests, as
well as of rich plains covered- with grass.
U is a land of rubber, and it has vast re
sources in fibers which may be used for
t he making of paper, rope and cloth. I
have already spoken of the bark blan
kets which are used by a million or more
of the natives as dresses; but I have aid
nothing of the raphia tibcr which is
broujrht here to Kntebhe for shipment to
Kngland. where it brings as high as $150
a ton This count i y can raise hemp as
good as that produced in the Philippines,
and Ohtna grass and sii.al are said to
thrive equally well.
The I'paTK'a protectorate is rich in min
erals. Hematite ore is found almost
everywhere, copper has been discovered
In the central province and gold is said
to exist in joinf places. There are also
cepotsus of white chin& cluy of great
HOW
FOUR.
'tea
,j ft - V T x 11 1.
value in certain localities, and the na
tive t hemsel ves make pottery from It.
I gHtida as the Sun Sees It.
Hut suppose we take u look at I'ganda
as the sun sees it. The country lies on
the roof nf the African continent. Where
it borders Lake Victoria it Is about as
high up fa the air as the highest of the
Alleghenles. and the crater of Mount
KJIgon which rises In the central province
a littie north of that lake kisses the sky
10 feet higher than the top of Pike s
Peak. AWay off to the east are Mounts
Kilimanjaro and Kenia, and at the west
are the mighty highlands of Ruwenzorl,
which vie with those of Kilimanjaro
itseir. The country In almost surrounded
by water. On the south is lake Vic
toria, on the w es t a re Albert FV; w a rd
and Albert Nyanza joined by the Sem-
liki. and further down is the Mle. on
the ensr i.s Lake Rudolf, an enormous
body of water, and throughout the wholo
country are beautiful little lakes, ponds,
rivers and creeks.
The general nature of the country is
roll lug. It has many hills and hollows
and undulating plains, with swanks In
the valleys. The hills are covered with
jcrass and' they roll over one another as
far as the eye can see. The .swamps are
often spotted with woods, and one is
never out of sight of the papyrus, the
tall tassel-like grass of which the
Egyptians made paper.
As to the extent of the protectorate, it
contains altogether more land than New
Kngland added to Now York, Pennsyl
vania. New Jersey. Delaware. Maryland
and Virginia. It has a bigger population
than New Kngland and bigger than that
of any state of our Union, with the excep
tion of New York, Pennsylvania. Ohio
or Illinois. The people all told number
between 4.iXXi.oT and r,noa.0H). nnd of these
considerably over IjfluO.POO are Christians.
These are the semi-civilized Baganda, in
whose country I now am.
Flvje tircat Provinces.
The British have divided up this terri
tory into five, provinces. Originally they
made six. but. within the last year or so,
they have taken off the lands lying east
of the lake and given them to British
Bast Africa. That province contains the
naked Kavirondo, of whom I have already
written. It U traversed by the I'ganda
railway, which terminates on the lake
at Port Florence. The five provinces of
Uganda consist of the kingdom of
Uganda, the central province to the east
of it. the western province lying: between
it and Lakes Albert Edward and Albert,
and the Rudolf and Nile provinces at
the north.
The central province, which is almost
directly north of Victoria Nyanza. is
fertile to an extreme. It borders on the
Kavirondo country, and many of its peo
ple go naked It is densely populated,
an its people raise cattle, sheep and
goats. They also do considerable farm
ing. On.? of the most characteristic fea
ture? of this province is Mount Rlgon,
which ranks as one of the high, moun
tains of the continent. It is an enormous
volcano, whose lower slopes are covered
with forests and on whose top are fre
quent snowstorms, although it is almost
on the equator."
Among the curious1 - features of this
mountain are Its caves, which have been
Inhabited by tne natives for ages. They
THE SUNDAY OK EOONIA NY PORTLAND, APRIL
dOHN DULL GOVERNS
s MILLION AFRICAN NATIVES
M it- ' iir lit - 1 H It " : " .t Wft. , T, ..T
use them as homes, and as stables for I
their cat tie, sheep and goats. The cat- 'j
tie caves are never cleaned, and the i
manure of nes" bed.s their floors. They
swarm with fleas and the stench is ter
rible. Roads are now being cut through
the central province by the native chiefs,
and one would have no difficulty In
journeying through It.
As to the Uganda province. It Is covered
with roads made lonft ago by the natives,
and one can go over a great part of It
on a bicycle. Many of the English of
ficials here own wheel and they are
gradually eomlnft into use among the
richest of the natives.
Western Uganda.
The poorest part of the L'panda pro
tectorate is !n the north. The coun
try fades out Into the desert not far
from hake fiudolf, and the Nile prov
ince partakes somewhat of the nature
of" the Sudan. As to the western prov
ince, that is hiph and healthy. It Is a
broken tableland, a great part tf It a
mile above the sea, rising- In some
places to high mountains. The. coun
try is well watered, and a large part
of it is covered with a tropical forest
fiikd with monkeys. The people are
we'l-developed black negroes who de
vote themselves largely to stock rais
ing:. They have cattle with horns so
large that they seem to be, leading the
beasts. In this same region there are
pygmies just like those which Stanley
describes as living in the forests of
the Congo.
These western natives are not so ad
vanced as those of Uganda proper.
Many of them go naked, and others are
clad only In aprons of bark cloth tied
by strings around their waists. These
natives ornament their bodies with
scars. I have seen some who have
their breasts and stomachs cut In such
patterns that they somewhat resemble
Persian shawls. Many of them file
their teeth and altogether they are
low In the scale of African civilization.
.The Capital of Uganda.
I wish we could send Uncle Sam to
Entebbe and show him how John Bull
handles these millions of savages.
This country has more than half as
many people as the Philippines, and
some of the'm have for ages been noted
for their warlike characters. John
Bull takes care of them all with a
lew score of officials and about 2500
soldiers. His soldiers are almost all
native blacks, and most of them have
ben recruited from the country Itself.
There are a few East Indian skins,
but the army is mainly made tip of
what is known as the King's African
Rif:s. who are commanded by British
generals, colonels and captains. This
force conrists of 1500 blacks, and. in
addition, there are looo native consta
bles. It seems a small army to control
4,001.00.) people.
Nevertheless, the country is kept in
perfect order, and law courts have
been established in all the provinces.
There is a supreme court to which ap
peals may be made. The people pay
their taxes. In some of the provinces
they are establishing schools, and al
together they are far better off than
they have ever been before.
This town of Entebbe is the capital
cf L tanda. it has the greater part of
the whit population, which consists
all . told of just 400 souls, embracing
P3 women. The men are chiefly Brit
ish officials. They are wll educated
young fellows, fond of sport and de
voted o tennis and golf, which they
play almost every day. The women
are. a a rule, fine-looking English
girls, the wives and daughters of these
officials. They dress as well as our
girls at home, and if ohe could lift up
this white colony and drop It down in
any cltv of England or the Ignited
States the people woutd not be 'out of
place. V
And how do these peopie live?
Well, here at the capital they are
better off than In many parts of the
Interior. They have houses of sun
dried brink, roofed with galvanized
Iror.. Very few of the houses are of
more than one story, but they have
wide verandas and the rooms are
spread out over the ground. Many of
them are surrounded by beautiful gar
dens, flllod with all sorts of tropical
plants and trees. The houses are built
far apart aiong wide roads of the red
dirt of Uganda. Some of the roads are
lined with flowering trees, the most
common being the Cape lily, which Is
now bearing a great mass of blue
flowers. Indeed, there are so many
flowers and plants that one seems to
be going through a botanical garden
as he walks along the streets.
The business part of the capital is
given up to the East Indians. There
are a ha'f dozen or more galvanized
iron stores filled with goods to sell to
the natives. The brown-skinned mer
chants wear little yellow skull caps,
calico parta?oons and long coats, but
toned high up In the necK. They
have yellowish brown faces, dark eyes
nnd curly black hair.
The government buildings are scat
tered here and there over the hills.
Thoy are usually roofed with galvan
ized Iron. They have Drlck walla and
wide porches. There are as a rule
very few buildings thatched with
straw. The police barracks form one
of the exceptions. These lie on the
western edge of Entebbe, and they
consist of rude Nuba houses, with cone
shaped roofs.
A Central African Hotel.
The hotel here is about the only one
in Central Africa. In most other places
one has to have his own tents or to stop
with the officials. I am usually able to
get in with an official, and this was the
case at Kampala, the native capital.
This new hotel is an oddity. It is made
of mud and grass. The main building
Is, I judge, about 50 feet square and
It measures about 25 feet to the
cone of the thatched roof. Its walls
are only 12 feet high, but the roof
does not begin for several feet above
them, a space of a yard perhaps being
left for air between the walla and the
rafters. This main part of the hotel
contains a dining-room, a parlor and a
billiard-room, with kitchens off at the
side.
The bedrooms are bungalow-like sheds
made of mud and thatched with straw.
They are jiome distance away from the
hotel itself and run around the walls
of the compound. Each bedroom opens
out upon a little porch or ledge floored
with mud and coated over with cow-
dune well smoothed down. To
12, 10OB.
jQCJmAir
t
rooms are floored the same way, but
each has a rush mat made of papyrus
reeds, from T,ake Victoria running cross
It. The beds themselves consist of a
rude framewoork of wood, to which are
woven strips of antelope skins. Upon
these rush matting Is laid, and then a
thin mattress of f 'gnnda cotton. Every
bed has its mosquito netting. This re
gion is very malarious, and no one
would think of sleeping here without
such protection. As for the food of the
hotel, it Is fairly good for Central Af
rica, although It won 1 be poor any
where else. The chief trouble Is the
cooking, which Is universally bad. As
to variety, we had at our last dinner a
soup, some fish, fried brains, beef, po
tatoes and green peas. Our desert be
gan with a slice of papain, a delicious
melon-like fruit which grows on a tree
here, and ended with coffee. The hotel
Officer Casey on
Some Homely and Witty
Illinois
Chif-afco Evening Post.
IKK. ma-an, whin ye've mlmo
rized th' whole Iv that cportln'
rxthry I'd be askln' ye a quis-
"M
tion or two." said Mrs. Casey.
"Qulstlons iv what?" asked Officer
Casey. ' "Iv doohtrlne or hr-ridge?"
"Iv nayther," replied his wife, "but iv
somethln' ye may chanst t know Iv, an
that's pollytlcs. I'm afther havin' t' read
a pa-aper on 'Race Prijudlee In Polly
tics' befure th married ladles' sodality
come Ohoosdah, an' I'm j?oln' t' make a
pint out iv this new Ir-rish parthy In th'
East, th' sthand Pat min."
"Th new Ir-rish th sthand Pat Mrs.
Casey, do ye be meanin' f till me ye think
th' wthand-patters ar-re Irish? An ye th'
wife Iv a ma-an an officer th.!'. voted th'
Dtmmycrathlc; ticket fr'm th" tins he was
eighteen! I'd rayther ye'd me a
mugwump th'n t' hear ye accusin' a pro
grisslve an enlightened pepul lv bein
sthand-patters.
"Th' sthand-patters. Mrs. Casey, ar-re
not a parthy. they ar-re a sthate iv ir
risted mlntal developtnint. They ar-re not
human bein's. but th talkin' masheens iv
th' Infant Industhrles infant Industhries
that possess a forty-eight waist mlsure.
"Th. sthand-pat min ar-re opposed f
anny charge. If ye asked a man iv
thim t' change a five he'd be insulted.
They niver change, not even their
minds. Some iv th' more lib'ral, whin
at a safe distance fr'm 'Uncle Joe"
Cannon, will admit that th' saysons
seem t' change, but that's as far as
they'll go. Th' tariff, they say, niver
cha nges.
"What's th" tariff? 'Tis a theery an"
a practice. In theery it kapes up th
wur-rkinmin's wage. In practice it
keeps up his expinses. Th' tariff is a
wall, th' weepin' wall iv th- Dimmy-cr-rats.
'TIs also th' Raypubllc'n fince
th' stolen goods an' not the bar-rb
wire varie'ty.
. "Th' tariff keeps out th' cheap goods
iv other counthries an' spares th'
tr-rusts th pain an' mortification iv
sellin' annythin' fr'm a spool iv cotton
f a thr-rashin' masheen at liss th'n
four hundred per clnt profit. Th' tar
iff, mVam. is th' foundation iv our
prosperity an' th' gr-round flure iv our
big fortunes. There's manny otherwise
sinsible min who believe in high tariff.
They say 'tis bether f'r th' wage-earner
in all pollytlcal ar-rgtmlnts th'
wage-earner is th' basis iv reasonin",
though he's niver spoke iv afther th'
campaign 'trs bether f'r th' wage
earner, they say. t' draw two fifty an'
splnd two forty-eight th'n t' draw wan
twinty-five an' splnd wan twinty-three
f r th' necissitles Iv life. Th" sthand
patters say this teaches th' poor th"
raysponslbility iv money.
"Annyway, th' sthand-patters say th'
tariff zpust not be changed, f'r the coun-
V
7B
l1 - '
'11' fd
uWZ IH&JilCAN COTTONS,
i
rate Is 2 a day, Including rooms and
board.
' Ruled Through the Chief.
lJuring my stay here I have had some
talks with officials as to how they han
dle Uganda. They tell me that they rule
as far as possible through the natives.
Each petty locality has had Its own sys
tem of government and Its own laws as
far as possible, and the machinery Is
adapted to these systems. In Uganda
proper the work in done through the na
tive council and the little king or the
officers appointed to represent him. The
council or lukiko consists of 20 chiefs,
each of which has Its own county
or district with its own court. Tneae
counties are subdivided and given over
to subordinate chiefs until there Is per
haps a chief to each village of any size,
the Standpatters
Views of the Tariff by an
Layman.
thry has not changed since th dootics whs
made. 15 years ago. Isn't th' Athlantlo
Osheen still on th' east?4they say, an'
th' Pacific still f th' wist? An' Isn't
fery'n still running? they say. Hince,
they say. th' counthry has not changed,
nn' t' change th' tariff now would be like
givin' a baby a diff'runt kind iv milk
in its second Summer, they say. Th' ray
suit, they say. would be a case iv colic
f'r ivry infant Industhry, they say, ah"
th poor ma-an would suffer by th' tram
pling iv' til' fabric lv our prosper'ty un
der th' foot Iv furrin dr-rummers. .
"So th' sthand-patters ar-re rallyin'
'round their standard, which is a picther
lv 1'ncle Joe with a double cross above
it Inscribed. 'This f'r business min', an'
chantln' their war song, which Is like
this: 'Ttddy, sphare that tree, touch not
a single dooty. 'Twas th' makln' iv Jawn
D., an we all want more booty.' 'Tis
what they call a touchln' refrain.
" TIs a gallant army represlntin' th'
inthrista lv th' pepul that Is musterin'
t save th' Raypubllc'n parthy fr'm low
erin' th' tariff wall. Th' Rhode Islan'
volunteers consist Iv a maker iv union
suits an' a maker Iv calico. Their regl
mintal flag has th' motto. 'Th' rights Iv'
th' pepul must be canned.' Where is
Rhode Island? I dunno; I niver saw a
map lv th' counthry lar-rge enough f
show it.
"Th' Massachusetts sthand-pat volun
teers ar-re three pa-aper-makers whose
war cry Is 'take care iv us an' let th' for
ests take care iv thimailves.' Fr'm Con
netycut ar-re comin' th' nutmeg cavlry
weepin' at th' thought lv exposin' our In
fant nutmegs f th' competition iv free
forrln lumber.
" 'Twill be a gallant sight f see these
heroes fr'm th' past mar-rch Inf th' Culy
seem nixt June f fight f'r th' tarift. Most
iv thim niver have seen a trolley ca-ar,
an' in Vermont they've aellrted on'y un
married min f come t' Chlcaga. sayin'
'twas not right f'r th' hies iv fam'lys f
expose thimsllves f th' danger iv bein'
scalped by th" Indeens lv th' plains. Ye
see. Mrs. Casey, they think th' counthry
hasn't changed since th' Dingley law was
passed.
"What will happen f thim? They will
surrinder. Uncle Joe will hold out gal
lantly f'r favor'ble tur-rrrs, which means
he'll keep his Job as snheaker iv th'
House Th' rist iv thim will buy th' Ma
sonic Timple or pint out which shell th'
pea is under, an' thin th' polls will llnd
thim th' price Iv a ticket home. Nixt
time ye're asked what a sthand-patter is
ye c'n aay he Is a poilytical Rip Van
Winkle that hasn't waked up yit.
"But I'm glad ye ar-re goln' t' talk iv
race prejudice in pollytlcs. 'Tis a disgrace
to th' counthry."
"I'm glad t' be hearln' ye say that,
Mike," said Mrs. Casey, "f'r Mrs. Schmidt
was afther askln me t'day f git ye t'
vote for her ma-an. whose runnin" fr
alderma-an."
"What, vote f'r that Dutchman?" de
manded Casey. "An' we Just afther glt-
A'r ,iv t
1 M f
t
The chiefs receive money f rorn the Brit
ish government and In return they collect
the tax'-s and t urn them into the treas
ury. The taxes are n.Hsess"d at ho much
to each hut. the amount lr Ing wiiihH.v
about SI a year. This seehi low. but
when It is remembered that M rn'iulre
about a moid h of good hard work to
make a dollar out here In Ucnnda it will
be seen that, it is pretty hitrh after all.
I have met many of the Paganila chief
during my stay. They are very intelli
gent. Not a few are able to read, having
learned to do so In the .mission schools.
One has written a book, and all are nmri
than ordinarily bright. Not h. few of
them are now keeping their court pro
ceedings In typewriting, the mi live lan
guage having been adapted to the Uorntm
letters so that the ordinary machine can
ho used.
Entebbe, A f rh-a.
tin Dnn O'leary t run Indepond"n t.
We're out t' show tlf Outeh they can't
run this wa-ard, an' we'll do ft if we hav
t' sind a Ilaypubllc'n U tit council."
Ixut't IVild Your Arm.
Family Doctor.
By folding your arms you pull tlie
shoulders forward, flatten tire ciirst aii'l
Impair deep hreatliiriR. Folding the arm
across t lie chest so flattens it down that
it requires a conscious effort to keep IIki
chest In what should be lis natimtl po
sition. As soon as you forget yourself
down drops the chept.
We cannot see ourselves ns others see
us. If we could many tit us would he
ashamed of our shapes. The position you
hold your body in most of ttie time snou
becomes Its natural position. Con
tinuously folding your arms across the
chest will develop a flat chest and a,
rounded back.
Here are four of her hints which should
he made habits: Keep the back or lh
neck close to the back of the collar at
all possible times. Always carry tho
che.st farther to the front titan hov other
part of the anterior body. I iraiv tho
abdomen in anil up a hundred times each
day. Take a dozen deep, pw breath
a dozen times each dny.
Chivalry al 6 Tears.
Toronto Saturday Niglil.
A true specimen of nifitiiy chivalry
the very pattern of a small kniuiit who
holds the rights of his lady love sacred
was encountered the other day In u P.os
ton kindergarten. The teacher discov
ered that a very smnll boy. 6 years old,
was chewing gum, and she hade him dis
gorge It.
"I can't." he said. .
"You can't?" she answerrd In surprise.
"Why, yes, you can, and you must.''
"No, I can t," he persisted, and kept
the gum in his mouth.
"Now. why can't you give ine that
gum. Johnny?"' the teacher asked.
"Because,-" said Johnny shortly, "it
belongs to a littie girl in Soinerville."
C'laMlc Invocation to a Modrrn leity.
William Wallace Whltelock In ti e New york
Sun.
Oreat Ruler of the KhkIitis Below-thf-Stairs.
Where we of coinriinn ciay mny (I'-.-cenil.
Or If. like Orpheus, braving death and
worse. .
We 'rront the perils of th- nr-th-r worm
And bid farewell tr, lixht and sndlinn lilc.
Impelled by something stronger than the
dread
Of grim annlh!lalion--or led on.
Like htm whom great Odysseus ealled son,
By flilal love to follow In the
Of honored sire who ha'h preceoed us..
But not returned from that audacious quest.
And for whose pend'-nt fate we tremble
sore
Or mayhap euided hy the sapient hand
Of some wise VlrKll who before us so'isht
Marcellus In these realms, arcl therefore
knew s
Where Cerberus, with sleeplees fang, lies
hid.
Where blows the hllKhtlng wind that bears
the forms
Of Paolo snd his nonrepentant love.
Where Charon waits upon nts ghostly fa-e.
And "he who enters here leaves hope be
hind" To thee we make our plea, xreat Janitor.
For Janus aptly named, of all the gods
The-first and mlaiitlest. sole survivor, too.
Of that once potent band oh, hear our
prayer.
"For the LioTd'u sake send the atearn up:"