The Sunday Oregonian., April 12, 1908, Magazine Section, Page 7, Image 55

HIH JSLADAY OKWiOMA.N. I'OIMLAM). Al'ltll, 1','.
Picturesque Spring Millinery
The Coiffure of the Moment
LKT Mrs. Diogenes, with her hws
bnnd's I'nrucd lantern, start out to
morrow in search of a simple, un
p: eten' iou, frttirv at ire hat and she
w ill have n difficult n time as did hrr
hubnnd whon ho started out to find an
honest man. Kvidemly there nrc to he
no simple, ladylike 1ft He hare in thin
year's Kast-r par.nio unless a few brave
woiitni f fy the millinery world and have
something simple and ladylike made to
(rrlrr.
Tlie woman who trembled in the fare of
lust Kail's millinery openings Is destined
1' hnvft nervous prostration before she
hns rounded up this .prtnit's oferlncs.
V hilc standing before a smart show win-
few days since, my attention was
.'ucht by despondent tones on my right.
.'mfortnhle. matronly person of about
forty w.s clutching her companion's arm
nnd stitdyinir the picturesque display be
hvi a hueo sheet of plate glass.
tpry." she murmured In the tone of
np doomed to folly. "Mary, do you think
ni and I will really eome to anything
) ke that? Those overturned wash howls,
niil unnrt measure, and floral topknots?
My goodness, there Isn't one romtnon-ff.-ne
hat in the lot.'"
Sue struck the keynote of the season'
rlisplay. It is not common sense- but. oh,
how lovely! And if just the right clerk
K"t hold of that despondent shopper, her
luiir was fluffed to .Inst the right Mage
cf youtlifulncss, and an overturned flower
put or tjuart measure or butterbowl, with
tiptilted flowers would change the tired
lo.'kmg matron into a most bride-like
"person.
For the season is nothing, if not youth-
ful. and a elever milliner can fit one of
those a bsurdly youthful models to a
middle-aged face with pleasing results.
I! is purely a matter of selecting the
right colors and twisting a ribbon here,
the brim there, and tucking in a flower
s; tlie last point.
l! is a season of odd shapes and nnlim
1t fl variety In materials. A clever phi
can oven take a Inst .season's small str.Tw
si. ape and mnke it over Into one of the
new b:g shape? by alternating the straw
with shirrings or pleatlngs of net. You
ran dye old straw braid and be almost
sine of striking a desirable eolor. for the
more pt-ouHa r the coloring, the more
smart your hat is considered. The only
tiniei combination noted is black and
wliite. and often these color. are so ar
l tncvd as to lie parish. Hardly any hat
apneai- in two or three tones of the same
ritMr, Generally the colors are strongly
einti at injr.
If tlie frnme of the hat is brown, the
fa.-ittr may be a grayish blue that is
a 1 nitst hut not unite an Alice blue, and
the trimming wil' be violets and pink
r srs, "tir lmce American Beauty roses.
A f n vorite con hi n a t ion i.s pale pink
n;id blue for delicate hats, and the deeper
rattier blue with American 1 tea ut y or
lar?:e cabbage roses. One of the Frenohicst
h.!i nt a recent opening was a pictures-ne
shape with hrf in drooping in the
t-:.-k and on the right side, and rolling
i:pvnrd m rr the fsc- and on the loft side,
v Ml tlie erown was almost thimble
i )n M-i1. The brim was of hgu red net.
mill narrow fold of pale blue mirror
v.'vet n edge. The crown was overlaid
with enormous no petals, overlapping
each other. in, the front of the hat was
hit co chou o( pale blue mirror velvet
Vexing Problem of Girdles
TH K problem of girdles is one of
l!ie most serious with which the
home dressmaker must cope. The
tluy when a neat leather belt In subdued
coloring for the dark tailored suit, a
white leather belt for Summer frocks,
nnd p.-r ha ps on pretty silk girdle for
Summery effects, were all-sufficient, is
now past. Tlie up-to-date sir! bus prao
t i ca ! ty a girdle for every gown, and one
wh it'll serms either a part of t iie gown
or made especially to harmonize with it.
The stout woman solves the problem
by having a narrow stiu-heri girdle to
match all her tailored suits and a few
flat. narrow told- of silk or piping
of velvet or silk on the girdle of her
dressier raiment. But the tlun woman
and the moderately heavy tall woman
a re fairly revel ms in strdlcs.
The fad of the thin woman is the
ssiih -pi ritle which may run into a
t unic. This is a strip of broad, very
soft and pliable silk. which, though
carefully laid in flat folds, to keep the
waist small. gies the appearance of
being wrapped Oriental fashion not only
around the wait line proper, but over
i!ic hips and i:t close To the bust line.
This may be MnNhed wit h buckles or
flat hi i ; tons in Oriental designs, or It
may have looje. soft ends with frlnse
HtM;r HtfK l FAX Y OI.
BK.tlTl
npaln;t which delicately tinted but very
large pink roses nestled.
Another smart, low-crowned sailor was
of burnt nrang. satin straw, the hrim
faced with nattier blue tulle closely
shirred, the crown bidden by wired loops
of nattier blue velvet ribbon and masses
of American Beauty roses.
Vividly-tinted flowers are the most no
ticeable feature of- the season, and one
of the most extravagant. A full-sized
American Beauty rose costs $2. So. haif
blown buds and foliage In proportion.
When to a mass of flowers Is added a
sweeping: osprey or several ostrich
phimes, $30 la a moderate price .for the
hat.
Straw, fancy braids and laces are all
dyed In the most brilliant tones. Amonir
the favorite colorings arc golden brown
(with ft decided accent on the wont
golden , violet verging on purple. Amer
ican Beauty and raspberry, forest grern.
lotus or pe.icoek blue, and all shades of
duller bhiest such as natter, Copenhagen,
etc. Mauve, and pun metal re the only
dead colors noticed, and even these. If In
straw, have a dash of color In the
trimming.
From I'aris comes word that later thes;
vivid colors will hcM-ome chea p and nn
desirable, and then more subdued and
restful tints will be in demand. To meet
this emergency, foreipn looms are turn
ing out trimmings in "nshes of roses."
"ashes of violets,' greens nnd blues that
apparently have passed through a cru
cible and all burnt shades of brown and
yellow, many of which will he combined
with white or softest gray shades for
midsummer wear.
Of the making of shapes there is prac
tically no end. The hat can he neither
too large nor too small. AH it must avoid
is mediocrity in slue and tint. The sail
ors for wear with tailored suits are tre
mendously broad and with a very flat
crown absolutely round. They are raised
slightly on a bandeau and worn at a wee
tilt upward on the left side. The flat
crown is hidden by masses of trimming
which, to be very correct, must be ap
plied flatly. Broad, flat Alsatian o:
"Merry Widow" bows are used for this
purpose, and a favorite mode of trim
ming Is low billows of mirror velvet, in
which many broad-winged birds nestle.
If the sailor Is not broad and flat, it Is
narrow and high, with a crown out of
all proportion jn width and height to
Its absurd little brim. Quite frequently
these sailors have flu tings of ribbon or
net on the edge of the straw brim.
Speaking of flutings reminds me that
the Louis XVI toque, with frills of
lace, entwined with sold braid or lace
and tiny flowers, is again in favor as an
evening or very dressy hat. Another
French hat recalls the reign of King
Henry, for it is distinctly a period or
costume hat. (generally in coloring made
to match exactly the brilliantly-hucd
gown. Around its sloping crown is a
band of brilliant embroidery. Japanese.
'hinese or Persian, which harmonizes
with the costume and likewise appears in
the vest. I'pon such a hat many plumes
are used, one at least falling over the
shoulder jmd the remainder rising,
cocknde-like. on the side of the hat. In
cidentally the coque pompon, so popular
during the Winter, has been replaced by
a pompon of rose leaves, velvet or silk,
exquisitely tinted or frosted. Some' of
these are ten or twelve inches in height,
and. are used on the so-called walking
hats. MARY DKAN,
finish, hanging on one side, generally
in the front. For silk house frocks on
Fmpire lines. these sash effects are
done tn chiffon, mousse! tne or some
other diaphanous fabric. A woman re
cently seen at a reception had on a
frock of dotted voile In white and
black. Around the hem of her robe
and outlining the square neck, which
was filled in with a chemisette, were
hands of black embroidery, and folded
around the waist, over hips and up to
the bust line as described above was
one of the new folded girdles of soft
black silk. A great black hat and
black gloves completed the costume,
which was striking but possibly only
for the very tall, slender woman.
At the same reception, notable for
elegant dressing, were seen several of
the new rough silk suits, made with
tunic skirts nnd loose Louts coats.
One of t hese in various shades of dull
blue with touches of green in the em
broidery, was outlined around tunic,
sleeves and deeply cut yoke with em
broidered hands in blues, greens and
gold, .fust a touch of this embroidery
a bo t5 1 an in eh w i de ap pea red bo t wee n
two folds of the blue cloth in the girdle.
On a linen suit in natural ecru was
seen a matching set of collar, turnback
cuffs, smart little tie and girdle, done
BROWS STRAW. AMKRHAX
IIOSKS.
PKRlOt) H4T FOR SII.K OR (LOTH
in heavier ecru' linen. witn scalloped
edges and dots of golden brown mer
cerized floss.
On a costume of blue linen, the. col
lar, tie and girdle were embroidered
with Wallachian work, in rich hades
of blue and green, with a few touches
of dull red. Nearly all these girdles
are fitted to the figure, comparatively
few belts of uniform width being of
fered. The girl who jjoes in for sports still
loves her leather belt, and two designs
are shown in these, both of soft, pliable
leather. One is in glace kid, two
shades of the same color Interlaced like
a fine checker-board pattern, and finished
with a harness buckle. The other is in
two shades of suede leather, the lignter
tint overlaying the darker, and cut out
to give a stencil effect. The buckle on
this is more ornate, generally heavily
chased.
Very few plain gold or silver buckles
and belt pins are shown. What is
known as green-gold. Gorman silver, and
dull fllaeree, are popular, and odd stones
of all sorts are used for settings, such
as jade, coral, lapislazuli. onyx. etc.
MARY DEAN.
The Meltin O the Snow.
T. A. Taly in Cathnllr Standard.
" Ti cold th day.'" said John Mct'ann,
I pen the read to mass.
Th? serra word said Mary Ann,
But stopped to let him paps
Fur, shure. he was the bold young man
An" she the modest lass.
Twas net himself that would be halked
So aisily. an so
He timed his steps wfd her's an' walked
Beside her. throuirh the snow.
But O! she pssed upon her way.
So modest an' so prim.
'Twas little he could think to say.
An' less she said to him.
But this he said when they were nigh
The little chapel door;
"X colder land, a colder sky.
t have never seen before
Than thie. for all Its store of gold. g
For all it is o grand.
I never- knew the feel o cold
At home, in Ireland;
But here. In these forsaken parts.
The snows, th bitter storm.
Creep even into Irish hearts
That should he kind and warm.
O! kind the maidens, Mary Ann.
Who tread the Irish gras.
This Messed dav'" said John MeOann,
I pon the road to mass.
Small heed Is where the heart is not,
An' shure. 'tis safe to say.
"Twas little that the pastor got
From Mar5" Ann that day;
No ears had she for any word
But Jist that bold young- man'.
An' fatx. the only thing; she heard .
Was when he read the banns
For two tru hearts that soon should be
In heppy wedlock one.
Then out rhe passed an home -went sue
Beneath th Winter sun.
An' knew before she turned her head
Who was It walked beside.
"Ye heard the banns ? Ah. well." he said,
"There's one has found a bride.
Thank rud one Irih heart Is sweet,
ThotiKh all the one I know
That makes my own lone heart to beat
Is old an' hard as snow."
"But now 'tis sofier, John MrCann"
Oehone! the modest lass" "
'The snow, I mean. blushed Mary ,nn.
Vpnn the trad to mars.
O: bells were on the, breeze that ran
A Ion the buddln' grsss.
An" JJpring on tip tee. waxed its ban'
Th' day to see them pi?s.
When John and Mary Ann M'ann
Came down the road from mass.
One historic deed of daring In the Span
ish bull rin is that of the 'amoon malaria-.
Gorrito. who on stilts faced 'the mad-
COSTIMK F1.R STRAW WITH HAM) OF KY1HROIOFRV OS CROWN.
DEADLY TOOTHBRUSH
St. Paul Pioneer-Press.
To a vast number in the Kngltsh
speaking world tthe lack of a toothbrush
is an evidence of arrested development,
of incomplete civilization. The regular
care of tlie teeth is commonly urged on
children as one of the chief evidences
of respectability; not less Important, in
deed, than fairly correct spelling. It Is
assumed, too, that in the vigorous and
frequent use of the toothbrush lies pro
tection against, the malignant designs
of the countless bacteria that have their
lairs in the mouth. Dentifrices alleged
to be antiseptTC are supposed hy.most
persons to he sure death to the in-vaders.
One physiologist was skeptical on this
point, and after an investigation he af
firmed that all germs easily x survive
these applications. In despair he. had
every tnoth tn his head drawn, saying
the only safety was in artificial teeth.
Bacteriologists also speak of the extreme
difficulty of keepfng the cavity free from
germs; more, one medical man asserts
that the toothbrush is a constant men
ace to the health of its users. The pro
fession seems determined to rob us of
our most cherished prophylactics. , We
are warned that the cold bath., long held
to be a superb tonic, is a common cause
of sudden death: that even soap pro
duces pnysical debility. The first argu
ment of the enemy of the toothbrush
is hardly convincing. Because, con
sumption is most prevalent among races
which fse the article it does not fol
low that the disease is an effect of that
use. Tn that way we might charge con
sumption to the wearing of neckties.
It may be, -true, doubtless It Is true,
that the toothbrush is always loaded
with micro-organisms;' that In order to
make it aseptfp it must be subjected to
strong chemical germicides -or to pro
longed boiling: and that the brush is
seldom, if ever, thus sterilized. All this
For Wear With 1.1 nice He Krotk.
does not imply that we Tnust taboo It.
Without it or an efficient substitute the
mouth must continue to be the favorite
lair of many kinds of microbes. Tt is
possible, of course, for the stfff bristles
to abrade the surface of the lining mem
brane, thus giving dangerous lodgment
to disease germs; but the healthy mouth
is not often injured Jn this way and,
anyhow, it is an accident easy to avoid.
Tlie cavity is full of nooks and corners
and anything less searching than the
bristle brush will hardly dislodge the
bacteria. It may be significant that the
doctor who falls, afoul-of the toothbrush
does not mention a single instance of
serious disease which could be ascribed
to its use.
But he brings another charge against
tlis respectable instrument. He holds
it responsible for the greater prevalence
of affections of the teeth In this coun
try, as compared "with Kurope, where
it is much less popular. "To see a middle-aged
or even young person in Amer
ica with healthy teeth is a rarity; even
young ladies of 18 usually expose one or
more artificial teethmade of gold."
Here again is an unwarranted conclu
sion. The children of the tenements
who never saw a toothbrush are re
ported by the school physicians as al
most Invariable victims of horribly de
cayed teeth. A gold tooth is better
than an aching void.
Tt would be rash for the layman to
deny that the toothbrush is sometimes,
"or often, the means by which disease
enters the system, . but . the doctor, at
least, has not made out his case. Per
haps his substitute for what he calls
the "deadly" brush is efficient, but it
would be a beastly nuisance. But at
any rate here It is: "A piece of aseptic
absorbent cotton about the size of a wal
nut, should be soaked in fresh water and
made into a pledget, tooth powder put
on it. and. holding it between the thumb
and index finger, the teeth thoroughly
cleansed."
Chocolate Kisses.
For this sweet, powdered or confec
tioners', sugar (XXX) is best. Pound to
gether In a mortar, one pound of the
sugar . and two ounces for squares) of
baker's chocolate. When thoroughly
mixed, pass through a fine sieve, and add
the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff
froth. Hare ready a sheet of tin with
out any sides and covered with buttered
paper. Drop the mixture on this, a
heaping teaspoon at a "time, and bake
slowly.
Chocolate Macaroons.
Grate four ounces of baker's chocolate,
and sift with one and one-half pounds
of powdered or confectioners sugar.
Blanch and grind in your meat-chopper
12 ounces of shelled almonds. This means
that the almonds must be weighed after
shelling, not before. Beat the whites
of three eggs to a stiff froth. Mix the
above ingredients and a teaspoon of
vanilla together in a porcelain bowl, drop
on buttered paper and bake in a moder
ate oven.
MIMfXfiRT eccentricities, such as
thoae thrust upon the feminine
world thla season, make serious de
mands upon the woman In the matter of
hir-dresslng. The average woman has
-not sufficient natural hair to support th
up-to-date hat, to we will first consider
how to make the most of the hair she
has. and then how to build up the
coiffure with artificial hair at th least
expense. ' ,
Heavy, oily or matted hair will not
build the correct coiffure of the mor
ment. ''Ratted' effects are completely
out of date. The woman with very
dry. erlnkiy.hair must apply brtlUantma
to secure in. correo, satin-tike sheen,
while the woman 'with damp, oily hair
must wash It frequently, or apply a lo
tion which absorbJM the ' oil and makci
the hair fluffy. This lotion for otly
hair ha been published very freqdently
In thi department, but -1 am always
glad 4o furnish the formula to my cor
respondents upon reeHpt of a self -addressed
envelop.. Brilliantlne can he pur
chased at the average "drugstore or
beauty shop, but as several correspond
ents have flaked for a formula, to prepare
thla neeensary toilet; article at home, 1
am giving it herewith:
Brilliantlne Castor oil.' i fluid drams;
sweet almond oil, 3'4 fluid ounces;
glycerine, fluid drams: Jocky Club ex
tract, 3 fluid drams; alcohol enough to
make 8 ounces.
i The simplest and most popular method
of dressing the hair starts with either
the Marcel or loose wave, arranged in
a pompadour and finished high on top
of the head with either masses of curls
and puffs cunningly combined Or -with
a switch or the natural hair arranged in
loopy. The woman .who v has . little
hair should depend upon 'her natural
tresses for the pompadhut and buy the
switch, puffs or -curia necessary to build
up the coiffure proper. Unless what fa
known as the transformation or false
pompadour Is adjusted by an expert, It
gives the appearance of a wig. It Is also
far more expensive than the switch .pr
puffs.
Incidentally keep your artificial hair
as clean and fluffy as your natural hair.
Wash It, brush It thoroughly, never al
low It to mat, and your dearest enemy
will not guess that you are wearing
false hair. . ,
Do not use hot irons on your ha,ir
either for the Marcel wave or loose
wave. Patent curlers come, for both, and
in fact for the loose, irregular wave
there is nothing better than a flat, old
fashioned kid curler. . The big. thick
curlers make a large, broad wave, the
smaller ones a finer, closer wave.
A very good Marcel waver recently
placed on the market is shaped like a
long steel hairpin with" a bodkin at each
point. Through these points a ribbon Is
run which la a trifle longer than the
hairpin.- The moist hair Is divided into
strands and woven in and out over both
steel pin and ribbon, then the pin Us with
drawn, leaving a combination weave of
hair and ribbon. The ends of the rib
bon are tied, the hair forming a semi
circle. In this way no pins are left In
the hair and the wearer can sleep in
comfort.
Many women write to me that merely
moistening the hair before applying
curlers is not sufficient. To such readers
I will be ajadt'to supply a formula for
a lotion to keep the hair in curl.
-Tn preparing to weave your pompadour,
divide the hair all round the head about
two Inches deep. Allow this to hang
over the face, ears and nape of neck,
and, gathering up what is left at the
crown of the head, either twist it lightly
or braid and then?, twist it temporarily
according to the amount you have. Now,
wave the hair either with irons or patent
curlers, as you choose (the latter will
require at least an hour's pressure), and
then bind around your entire head, close
to the edge of the scalp, a ribbon or
cloth bandage about two inches wide,
which holds the entire pompadour away
from the edge of the scalp and secures
the peculiar "set-back" effect which
brings the pompadour up to date. This
means that there will be the effect of
the pompadour starting about an Inch or
more away from the face, and then belng
fluffed out.
If your pompadour is not thick, then
It is better to get a fine rat of good,
not cheap, hair on which to build your
coiffure. Do not rat the hair I. e. comb
it backward on the under, side. This
breaks the hair.
When you have built your pompadour,
see what can be done with the hair you
braided or knotted at the crown. The
dressy coiffure shows either puffs or a
combination of puffs and curls and un
less your hair is very long you can soon
learn to make puffs, rolling them over
vour finger and finishing them smoothly
with a bit of brilllantine. For evening
wear, a bit of tulle, ribbon or velvet or ,
even a wreath of wee flowers may he j
BlTTBRHOUt HAT tROWNKO WITH MORM.Mi t;i,ORIKS FOR
WITH DRESSY MII.K SI ITS.
coiled In and out of the puffi and, curls.
For ordinary wear, the puffs or switch
arranged In loose colls or loops, are piled
well on top of the hair, and the correct
ornament Is a rather high back comb
Ride combs may also be used to hold the
pompadour In plsce, but the high back
eornb Is essential. s
The low coiffure Is seen only on the
heads of very you tig girls, and In truth
only a well-built, decidedly thick coif
fure will support the new hat.
In buying false hair, remember that a
switch Is a better all -round Investment
than puffs or short curls. You can neve
work the latter over Into' a switch, but
with a good swIMt you can build puffs.
When you buy false hair, save until you
can . buy what is known as live hati.
Never buy a very cheap switch, because
dead hair, hi Id against your own live
tresses, (s like one rotten apple packed
among Moltd ones In a barrel. The germ
o death spreads.
KATIIKRINR MORTON'.
ETIQUETTE OF
THE CHURCH
NfrT SO long ago one of the country's
leading magazines created a veritable
tempest In a teapot among church peo
ple by publishing the experiences of a
strange young woman who attended Serv
ices In many cities and was often treated
rudely, almost Invariably ignored by
members of the various congregations.
ApUie from the ethical side of t!y ques
tion, the duty of the church member to
the stranger within the church doors,
this series of articles raised the question
In more than one church: "What con
stitutes church etiquette?"
There are various points which Indi
cate good form among regular or oc
casional church-goers. One of these Is
dress. Ioud. garish or careless dressing
for church Is extremely bad form. One
woman wears a costume fit only for a
reception, with a much-plumed hst and
floating veil, . while her neighbor goes
to the other extreme and thinks that any
old thing Is good enough for church wear.
Between these two is the happy me
dium. A well-mad', not too severe tailored
suit with matching waist In subdued
coloring, or a two-piece suit of cloth,
silk or velvet, according to the season,
with a separate coat or wrap not over
trimmed but of elegant material, a small
hat or tHi'11 ar,d fan or grey gloves
make a sensible church outfit. Over
trimmed short Jackets with elbow steeves
and long white kid glovcx, enormous hats
loaded down with feathers or flowers,
and striking veils with huge dots or em
broidered hems and long floating ends,
are not good form at church. fndeed.
many conservative women will not wear
veils at all in the church, but removn
at the entrance the small mesh veil
which has protected the hHfr outdoors.
The well-dressed man in church wears
dark striped grey trousers subdued grey
or white waistcoat, black frock coat,
high silk hat and grey gloves. In the
matter of ties, any subdued coloring K
good form, black, dark blue, green, grey
or white silk. Striking colors like pur
ple, orange or red are not good form
for church wear. A cane may be carried
to church even by a young man.
Next to the frock coat comes the Eng
lish walking suit, which has rather a
long coat, and the man of limited means
who cannot Indulge In many suits should
reserve for church wear something dark
and unobtrusive, never wearing the strik
ing check or stripe which he may use
for business.
If you are, a pew-holder, especially In
a large and well-attended church, have
a distinct understanding with the ushers
regarding the occupancy of your pew. If
you do not wish strangers seated therein
because you may have guests of your
own to completely fill It, notify the ushers
to this effect. And having consented that
a certain number of strangers may share
your pew. do not treat them as if they
are intruders. For the time being they
are your guests. See that they are sup--plied
with hymn books, the ritual, etc..
and when the service is over, express
the hope that they enjoyed the service.
A few pleasant words of this sort do not
bind you to recognize these transients
should you meet later on the street.
PRl'DENCB STANDI3H.
Home-Made Chocolate Sweets.
The combined flavor of vanilla and
chocolate seems particularly pleasing to
the American palate, and when preparing
sweets for home consumption or sale, the
amateur candy-maker will do well to bear
this fact in mind. As Easter sales are
now in order, we are giving some re
liable receipts for chocolate sweets that
are sure to find ready sale.