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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 13, 1907)
7 1 KKESrQnFLtn-Bvcc r FA3ni!i5 (&,Pemjtt, Fancy Blouses for the Weil-Dressed Woman THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 13, 1907. A OOOD MODEL FOB ' J Building the New Coiffures Unquestionably the Winter of 1907-8 will pass into the history of modes as a sea son- of elaborate halr-drcssings. In many respects the coiffures of the hour suggest the return to chignons and wigs, and not Tor years has the use of artiflcal hair been so general. The hat or head covering of any sort has been practically abandoned for eve ning wear. The woman who goes to theater, opera or dance In her own car riage solves the problem by not covering her head at all. The girl who must go by public conveyance, particularly by trol ley, dresses her hair elaborately and pro tects it by nothing more weighty than a scarf or square of chiffon. At the theater, some feather ornament, like Prince of Wales plumes and aigrettes for matrons, while for debutantes floral wreaths or coronets, bands of velvet or metallic rib bons and bands of tulle finished with huge rosettes or choux are entirely replacing even the thinnest hats. All these trifles demand for their foundation the most exquisitely of colffed heads. The fluffy, "ratted" pom padour and the Marcel wave have alike given place to more severe styles of dress ing. If any wave is UBed. It is scarcely visible to the naked eye, while puffs of hair un waved, but brushed until they shine like burnished metal, are far more fashionable. The false hair appears most generally in the form of puffs, not in pairs, but by the dozen, and in the short, almost chlldUih curls of the Directolre period. These are less expensive than the coronet hrald seen last Winter, or the switch, and they are easier to keep in good condition, the one redeeming feature of the season's hair extravagance. The oval face has much the better chance in this season's hair dressing. A very popular model shows the hair drawn away from the crown of the head and brushed out until it resembles the great halo of hair which surrounds the face of a Zulu warrior. When every tangle has been removed and the hair polished with the brush, it is rolled backward, round and round the finger. In sections, until it surrounds the entire head in a medium, even pompadour. This leaves the entire crown of the head and a space all around it. absolutely flat, and this empty space Is filled In with masses of false puffs. Another striking method of dressing the hair suggests the Directolre period. The hair 1b parted in the middle and brushed smoothly over the ears. If its owner is blessed with luxurious locks, she catches it above the ears in two puffs, and then drawing it to the nape of the neck, makes a loose coil. One or two bands of ribbon or velvet are then used to finish the top of the coiffure, lying quite flat. If there Is not enough natural hair to make the puffs, false puffs are attached, the Junction hidden by the bands of rib bon or velvet. A softer dressing shows the hair waves parted and knotted at the base of the neck, with two small but soft curls just above and behind the ears. For evening this coiffure Is finished with soft bands of maline, tulle or ribbon, with choux or bows at the left side. The broad effect in hair dressing, and the puffs and curls over the ears are almost essential In this day of extravagant hats. When false hair Is used It must be washed and shampooed as regularly as the natural hair or it will soon take on a dusty, grimy, dead look. A good switch, or set of puffs or curls can be treated precisely like natural hair, using the same curling fluid and irons, though the latter should always be used with dis cretion, or both false and natural hair will be burned. To secure just the right burnished glint on natural hair It much be neither too oily nor too dry. The dry scalp should be massaged nightly with the following ""'on of rosemary 1 ounce Oil of almonds S ounces Oil of mace ; --?P If your hair Is very oily, arply, the fol- lowing lotion nightly: Bay rum, two quarts; alcohol, one pint: water, one plntr tincture of can tharldes, one ounce; carbonic am monia, one-half ounce: carbonate of potash, one ounce. Dissolve the two carbonates In the -water; mix the re mainder of the Ingredients together thoroughly, and then add the dissolved carbonates. Shake thoroughly and pour the mixture Into what Is known as a drop-topper bottle. Then you can part the hair and drop the lotion on THE SLENDER WOMAN. a very little at a time, massaging It into the scalp. Allow the liquid to dry in the scalp, and once a week. If the hair is very oily, shampoo, using; the following mixture: Yolk of one egg, one pint of rain water Tlukewarm), one ounce of rose mary spirits. Use half the shampoo mixture the first time, rinse thoroughly, apply the .second half of the mixture and rinse until the water runs off absolutely clear. Dry In sunlight and do not dress the hair or even braid It, until it is absolutely dry and free from all odor. If you ' have trouble keeping your hair In curl, dispense with hot Irons and try kid curlers, separating the hair into rather small locks and moistening with the following lotion before put ting on the curlers: Ono ounce of gum arable, one-half ounce of good moist sugar, three quarters pint of pure hot water. Dis solve this. When this solution is cold add two fluid ounces of alcohol, six grains of bichloride of mercury and BUTTONS ANR EMBROIDERY AS TRIMMINGS. six grains of salamonlac. These last two should be dissolved In the alcohol before admixture. Lastly, add enough water to make the whole measure one pint, and perfume with any desired cologne. Apply to the hair and put up on kid curlers to dry. KATHERINE MORTON. Twice Married. Bohemian. "I'm an orphan, sir."- she eald. He tenderly consoled her. And when he saw it pleased her. too His sympathy grew bolder. "Poor, lonely little one." he said, "1 also am another; Twould be tha thins. I'm sure, if I Should kiss you for your mother' . He did. but e'en that tnoughtful deed Seemed hardly to suffice her. She murmured: "I forgot to say My pa was married twice, air. NEVER has a season been that showed' the little things in such numbers. Time was when the hat and dress. were the main things to be considered, but this season It Is the lit tle things that count so much. Take a girl who has just bought a new dress, and with it she dons a silk blouse left over from last season, and what Is the result? -The waist looks miserable by comparison with the fresh skirt, and the dress takes on a dowdy look from the old silk blous.e. Many of these new waists are made of plaid Indeed, it seems to be a great favorite, and coming close after it are beautiful Persian designs in taffetas and surahs, which . accord In coloring with the new cloths. The satin barred plaids can easily be so arranged as to give the small-walsted and broad shouldered effect. Some designers In the cities have given particular atten tion to forming the plaids so that they can be made to match without any great waste of material. It is a long time since surah has been worn, but many of our mothers will remember its wearing qualities, which should com mend it to a later generation. Then, too, they come In such beautiful color ings, that they could not fall to meet the approval af the most exacting taste. The separate waist is separate n name only, for it must really form a part of the costume In color, unless It Is white. The guimpe waist Is seen more than any other, and Is ever taking on fresh and fascinating forms. The fancy blouse with the effect of strapping in front and back, is adaptable for all the new 'fabrics of the season. Made of crepe de chine with moire or velvet piping. It is most attractive. While the model looks rather Intricate it is Soup Suggestions for the Cooler Weather WITH the return of cool weather the family appetite for soups revives. This is a comforting- thought for .the hotsewlfe, who must economize, as the nourishing qualities of meat are secured in soup at a cheaper price than In roaBts, steaks, chops or even stews. j The French consomme is the founda tion of all clear soups, and its success depends upon the variety of Ingredients employed. For the foundation, buy two pounds of lean beef from the shin, cut into strips. Add to this any bones you have on hand, left from roasts, steaks, chops, either of chicken or beef. Slice one medium-sized carrot, onion and tur nip, chop one branch of parsley, one branch of celery, one sound garlic clove, one branch of chervil and on leeks. If you can secure them in your market, and one tablespoon of salt, 10 whole black peppers, one clove, five allspice, one saltspoon of dried thyme and one sprig of bayleaf. Place all these Ingre dients In a saucepan, pour - over them enough cold water juBt to cover them, and stand on the back of the Are to sim mer very slowly for an, hour. Then draw the pan forward over a hot fire and cook briskly for five minutes, stirring the while with a wooden spoon. Add two and one-half quarts of boiling water and stir again while this comes to a boil; then cover the pan and let the mixture simmer slowly for an hour and a half.. If you desire to serve clear, strain through a soup slee directly Into a tureen or cups. If you wish to use this for the foundation for other soups, strain Into another saucepan. The Instructions given above seem to call for a great variety of Ingredients, but when you think of the various soups which can be built on this foundation, it represents time and Ingredients well spent. You can add to It the various prepared Italian pastes, macaroni broken up ' fine and cooked In salted boiling water, spaghetti In long, slim colls and the tiny vermicelli alphabets. Grated Parmesan cheese scattered over the top of consomme to which Italian pastes have been added is most appetizing. For consomme Julienne, cut raw car rots, two of medium size, in fine narrow strips, one turnip, the white part of two leeks, two branches of celery, one small onion and a very small piece of white cabbage. Spread these on a board and sprinkle with one teaspoon of salt and not so tn putting It together, and It is quite within the limitations of the home sewer. The latest development of the large armhole Idea takes the form of trim ming, and here In the simple tucked blouse we can see. it to great advan tage. In the illustration It is made of silk veiling or grenadine, with bands of taffeta and yoke -of all-over Irish lace, but everything that Is used for Indoor gowns is suitable, providing it is tnin enough to allow for the tucking. The taffeta bands should be of the same color, the difference in material giving the waist sufficient variety. These bands could be braided or em broidered if you wish, so that either a simple or an elaborate blouse could be evolved from the model, depending upon the quality of the goods and the amount of trimming. The fancy blouse with a modified loose sleeve Is oftentimes attractive, and vou will notice that buttons are playing a great part In the trimming of all waists this Fall. Piping with different material, but of the same color- as the waist, is also .much used. The blouse with the pleat having the effect of being buttoned on Is pretty In the extreme, and allows a chance for a bit of coronation braiding for the girl who is deft of finger. This -is a model that adapts itself well to heavier wool materials, and even a lightweight of broadcloth and moire silk, worn with pretty guimpes of heavy all-over lace. The blouse with the yoke and sleeves trimmed with knife, pleatings of silk is always suitable for the slender girl, and today's model Is new and extreme ly simple and effective. Whatever fea ture the new, up-to-date waist may in clude, the all-essential one Is some ar rangement of trimming whereby the seams that join the sleeves to the two of granulated sugar. Butter a sauce pan, add the vegetables and spread a tablespoon of butter over the top. Add one and a half gills of hot water, cover with enamelled lid or heavy white paper and set this in a hot oven for three quarters of an hour. Remove and add the vegetables to the stralnd consomme and boil ten minutes. Serve very hot. If you have at hand some cold French peas or beans, add a few of these and half a teaspoon of chopped parsley, when you add other vegetables. Remember that the beauty of' consomme Julienne lies In the finely cut or stripped vegetables. When you are planning to entertain and serve chicken salad or pattleB, sim mer the fowls gently and use the broth Dangers Lurk in the Oriental Rugs DR. REMLINGER. head of the Pasteur Institute In Constantinople, has been making an Investigation of Oriental rugs and carpets and has published a summary of his results in the German Journal of General and Applied Hygiene. He finds that the carpets of the better class, the highly prized antiques or near antiques, constitute a serious menace to health un less they are put through a radical cleans ing and disinfecting process. The real antiques which have been in use In Oriental houses or bazaars for years or generations have been exposed to the contagion of countless disease germs. Their texture fits them in a pecu liar way to gather and retain these Indefi nitely. These genuine antiques are far less ob jectionable than the counterfeit antiques. which have been artificially mellowed. One of the least objectionable methods used to soften the colors in the degree that the European and American market calls for Is to bury the carpets In trenches with quantities of stable refuse. When taken up they are little likely to receive a thorough cleansing. Sometimes the carpets are laid down in frequented places to be walked on, thus accumulating the bacteria-laden dust of the Eastern city streets. Or a rug may be lent to a beggar or street vender, who sits on It and sleeps in It until It acquires the semblance of age. Dr. Remlinger points out that tubercu losis, throat diseases and catarrh are prevalent In the rug and carpet trade. He is of opinion that they are contracted from handling the fabrics and breathing the air in which they are opened and agi tated as they are shown to customers. The doctor also expresses the opinion that some otherwise unaccountable outbreaks of tropical enteric disorders that have taken place in Paris were due to infection from Oriental rugs. The most thorough and efficient process of cleansing would be disinfection by steam. This would do no harm to the rugs, and it is an absolutely certain meth od of killing bacteria. He thinks that It should be generally adopted as a prelim inary to the importation of Eastern fab rics into any Occidental country. How to Overcome Nervousness HAVE plenty of fresh air. You can not handicap yourself In any more serious manner than to work or sleep In stale air. Do not expend any more energy than is necessary in accomplishing your daily tasks. W'hen you talk do not contort your face, move your hands and feet. What Is the use of spending so much unnecessary strength in talking or In listening? Do not clinch the hands. Do not tap the feet. Learn to be reposeful. If you learn to relax In a general way you will worry less about unavoidable delays in cars and ferry boats and will save your temper and prevent wrinkles. The disposition Is so quickly affected by the state of the nerves that one owes it to those about them to learn the lesson of relaxation. Do not try to do a hard day's work without a fair start. Learn to eat a sensible breakfast, and remember, too, that before you can overcome nervousness you will have io pay attention to a sensible diet, and In acquiring the proper sort of rest each night. Do you know how to go to sleep? The benefits which you derive from the night's rest will depend to a great extent upon the manner in which you go to sleep. In the first place, don't allow yourself to think. Never make any plans for the next day's 'work, nor mourn about the failure of the day that has gone. Stretch and turn as much as you like until you are ready to fall asleep. Re- blouse are concealed. This blouse Is trimmed to bring- about such an ef fect. The shoulder line is by no means broad, and It is consequently becoming to almost all figures except to the woman of very large proportions. The one shown today was made of gray green crepe de chine, with trimmings of velvet lust one tone darker, the wall of Troy 'pattern being outlined In gllt soutach braid, and knire pleatings 01 gray green taffeta. The combination of several materials in a single gar ment marks the very latest styles, and the blouse Js altogether one much to be commended. It could be utilized as a model for the entire, gown or made up as a separate waist to be worn with the new Fall street suit. - A new color has shown itself within the last few days, and Is known as "Tea-Green." It is really almost a black-green, yet with that tinge of silvery gray. It Is a most charming color for the elderly woman who dis likes to shroud herself In blak from one season to another. No striking colors are seen at all everything seems to have a so-called gray shadow over it, and all contrasts of colors are to be avoided. Everything Is artistic, and bright colors are seldom seen and are then only Introduced In touches. Then, too, remember the little things and be sure that you wear the right little things with the right big things. By that I mean do not wear a long lavender chiffon veil In the morning with your small walking hat. Do not wear soiled white kid gloves with your afternoon suit. See that your shoes are kept up,- that your yells are not torn and that your accessories are in keeping with the garments you are wearing. As In the great problems of life, so It Is in dress I. e., little tilings count most. MARY DEAN. thus drawn off for soup. To give this a good flavor, place In a separate saucepan one carrot, one turnip, one onion, two leeks, two branches of celery, the same of parsley, all slice! and chopped, one sprig of bay leaf, one clove and one saltspoon of dried thyme. Cover with hot water, set on the back of the stove and simmer gently. Strain the chicken broth and the water from the vegetables into a common saucepan and skin all the fat from the surface. Have ready the rice, cooked as follows. Wash two teaspoons of rice, plunge at once Into salted boiling water, cook twenty min utes, drain, add to soup and simmer fifteen minutes longer. Serve In cups with finger rolls. lax all your muscles. Let the bed hold you up; don't try to hold yourself. The very shape of your bodv Is under half conscious control. Perfect rest means the relaxing of that control. The Memoranda Habit. "I think," said the doctor, "that It's time, for somebody to utter a word of warning about certain chains of bondage which a good many people are busy fastening on themselves. I refer to mental bondage, not to physical, and It's slavery to lists. memoranda, notes whatever you want to call It that I d like to register my protest against. . Go into any store any day and pick out the mo&t harrled-looking woman you can find among the customers; sooner or later you will see her con sulting a list of things to do, and then nervously push on to the doing. l,She has mapped out a plan of campaign which. In nine cases out of ten. Is more than she can reasonably expect to ac complish, and she Is making herself thoroughly unhappy In realizing the situation. "Not even the most systematic man or woman can tell exactly what Is go ing to happen the next day or hour, and the emergency, which la apt to be much more important than the routine hap pening fully expected, finds people ill prepared when there Is annoyance or positive conrern as is usually the case over the breaking up of a schedule. There ought to be for comfort, and for progress as well, a certam elasticity in arrangements, and it's the part of w IB Increasing his burdens, isn't aware of It and he suffers in consequence," i . i 8TRAPFINS FRONT AND BACK. LATEST DEVELOPMENT OF Ghats With Half-Grown-Ups EN'T she the ' daintiest, dearest thing," said an enthusiastic ad- mlrer of a certain young woman, who was flitting among her mother's guests, passing sandwiches and tea. Her frock was a simple affair of white barred muslin, but fresh as if It had just come from the laundry. Her hair was brushed until it shone like burn ished gold. Her slippers were finished with smart little leather bows and trig black lisle stockings showed just at the ankle. Inexpensive was her whole outfit, yet It radiated daintiness, as the young man had said. But the serpent was In this modern Eden, for a small brother, not too small, however, to be most observing, gave vent to the snort peculiar to knicker bockers and the awkward age, and re plied: "Yep, but "you ought to see her in the morning, when her hair ain't curled. Dad said the other morning If she didn't burn that old flowered wrapper, he would. Girls are queer. They dress so much sometimes, and so little others." Of course It was very, very naughty of younger brother to thus betray the skelton In the domestic closet, and In cldentally do his sister harm tn the eyes of her admirer, but then, who was really to blame? The girl and her mother! The mother probably had started out her domestic career all wrong; by think ing; that any old thins was good enough to wear at her housework. She never dressed up save 'when she was going out or company was coming In, and strangely enough that sort of woman is always talking about how dreadful ly overworked she Is. and how she never has time to dress. The Idea of having simple, washable and attractive dresses in which to do her work never THE LARGE ARMHOLE IDEA. entered her head. Working- ,hours were not worthy of attrr-ctlve frocks. And so the daughter fell Into the habit and did not put on her pretty school frocks until just time to leave the house or to go to the matinee. Or If she worked In an office or shop, she would lie around all day Sunday in a kimono, and dress Just in- time to go out In the evening. The kimono and negligee have done much to make the American girl slov enly and unuattractive. Often they are not really respectable, but are worn with a single safety-pin or brooch at the throat, flying open to dlsclpss skirts and other lingerie. A young man who collects for a piano firm was telling me the other day that the visions he had of untidy women In their own homes, women whom later he saw on the Btreet, arrayed In all the srlory of Solomon, made him wonder why men married at all, or why, mar rying, they ever remained within their own doors. The kimono, or cotton erepe negli gee, .long or short, with heelless slip pers to match. Is meant for bedroom wear alone. It Is not Intended for wear at the breakfast table. And once girl begins to wear a. negligee or kimono to breakfast she Is apt to ap pear also with her hair twisted care lessly atop her unbrushed head or In a rough braid down her back. If she has no slippers, she comes down with her shoes unbuttoned and unlaced. She means to dress right after breakfast, but she does not. Instead, she straightens up the parlor with kimono flying and hair hanging and shoelaces tripping her up. She daw dles a bit at the piano and finally goes to the door to receive the mall at the hands of the postman. Oh, such femi nine sights as the postman must see and In nice-looking houses, too! And then she goes up to her room. makes her bed and sits down to sew or read, thinking she will change to a house frock after she has rested a ' bit. But the lunch bell finds her still untidy, and it Is mid-afternoon before she really dresses herself respectably. Of course, the man - who wants to marry her sees her only after she has discarded the kimono, after she has laced her shoes, after she has brushed her hair and he does not dream that before the honeymoon is over such a vision of untidyness will greet blm at the breakfast table, because the girl Is bound to slip back Into her untidy ways after the first pleasure of wear ing the trousseau frocks Is over. It does not take long In the morning to slip on a house dress or neatly fitted wrapper, instead of the loose, flowing kimono. No girl will wear unlaced shoes or run-down slip pers with a pretty house frock. More over, she will not be able to endure the sight of an untidy head with a clean frock and so the mission of the dainty house frock Is fulfilled. Just try this method, girls. Give some thought to the drees you wear before your brothers and fathers at the breakfast table, and then your small brothers will have no reason for dis closing family skeletons to admlreri whose admiration Is really justified. PRUDENCE STANWSH. Socialist Husband's Farewell, Puck. Fare thee well! It is forever. So forever fare thee well! It la bent that we should sever; Circumstances so compel. We have lived ten years together. Side by side, like podded peas. But we now must break the tether We are not affinities. Ten long years were we connected Each the other thought a prize; And I never once suspected That we didn't harmonize. But I've recently been bitten - By the Socialistic bus. , And as recently been smitten By the charms of Laura Huge. LAura is my heaven-born fellow; Laura Is a thoroughbred: Laura's hair, like mine, is yellow; " Laura's soul, like mine, la red. Laura is my bright aurora. And the idol of my eye- ,r But you've had enough of Laura! Very likely so shall L Bon voyage! And stop your crying! AM aboard! Here comes the tug; In a moment I'll be flying To the arms of Laura Hugf.
