7
1 KKESrQnFLtn-Bvcc r FA3ni!i5 (&,Pemjtt,
Fancy Blouses for the Weil-Dressed Woman
THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 13, 1907.
A OOOD MODEL FOB
' J
Building the New Coiffures
Unquestionably the Winter of 1907-8 will
pass into the history of modes as a sea
son- of elaborate halr-drcssings. In many
respects the coiffures of the hour suggest
the return to chignons and wigs, and not
Tor years has the use of artiflcal hair
been so general.
The hat or head covering of any sort
has been practically abandoned for eve
ning wear. The woman who goes to
theater, opera or dance In her own car
riage solves the problem by not covering
her head at all. The girl who must go
by public conveyance, particularly by trol
ley, dresses her hair elaborately and pro
tects it by nothing more weighty than a
scarf or square of chiffon. At the theater,
some feather ornament, like Prince of
Wales plumes and aigrettes for matrons,
while for debutantes floral wreaths or
coronets, bands of velvet or metallic rib
bons and bands of tulle finished with huge
rosettes or choux are entirely replacing
even the thinnest hats.
All these trifles demand for their
foundation the most exquisitely of
colffed heads. The fluffy, "ratted" pom
padour and the Marcel wave have alike
given place to more severe styles of dress
ing. If any wave is UBed. It is scarcely
visible to the naked eye, while puffs of
hair un waved, but brushed until they
shine like burnished metal, are far more
fashionable.
The false hair appears most generally
in the form of puffs, not in pairs, but by
the dozen, and in the short, almost
chlldUih curls of the Directolre period.
These are less expensive than the coronet
hrald seen last Winter, or the switch, and
they are easier to keep in good condition,
the one redeeming feature of the season's
hair extravagance.
The oval face has much the better
chance in this season's hair dressing. A
very popular model shows the hair drawn
away from the crown of the head and
brushed out until it resembles the great
halo of hair which surrounds the face
of a Zulu warrior. When every tangle
has been removed and the hair polished
with the brush, it is rolled backward,
round and round the finger. In sections,
until it surrounds the entire head in a
medium, even pompadour. This leaves
the entire crown of the head and a space
all around it. absolutely flat, and this
empty space Is filled In with masses of
false puffs.
Another striking method of dressing
the hair suggests the Directolre period.
The hair 1b parted in the middle and
brushed smoothly over the ears. If its
owner is blessed with luxurious locks, she
catches it above the ears in two puffs,
and then drawing it to the nape of the
neck, makes a loose coil. One or two
bands of ribbon or velvet are then used
to finish the top of the coiffure, lying
quite flat.
If there Is not enough natural hair to
make the puffs, false puffs are attached,
the Junction hidden by the bands of rib
bon or velvet. A softer dressing shows
the hair waves parted and knotted at
the base of the neck, with two small but
soft curls just above and behind the ears.
For evening this coiffure Is finished with
soft bands of maline, tulle or ribbon, with
choux or bows at the left side. The broad
effect in hair dressing, and the puffs and
curls over the ears are almost essential
In this day of extravagant hats.
When false hair Is used It must be
washed and shampooed as regularly as
the natural hair or it will soon take on
a dusty, grimy, dead look. A good switch,
or set of puffs or curls can be treated
precisely like natural hair, using the
same curling fluid and irons, though the
latter should always be used with dis
cretion, or both false and natural hair
will be burned.
To secure just the right burnished glint
on natural hair It much be neither too
oily nor too dry. The dry scalp should
be massaged nightly with the following
""'on of rosemary 1 ounce
Oil of almonds S ounces
Oil of mace ; --?P
If your hair Is very oily, arply, the fol-
lowing lotion nightly:
Bay rum, two quarts; alcohol, one
pint: water, one plntr tincture of can
tharldes, one ounce; carbonic am
monia, one-half ounce: carbonate of
potash, one ounce. Dissolve the two
carbonates In the -water; mix the re
mainder of the Ingredients together
thoroughly, and then add the dissolved
carbonates. Shake thoroughly and
pour the mixture Into what Is known
as a drop-topper bottle. Then you can
part the hair and drop the lotion on
THE SLENDER WOMAN.
a very little at a time, massaging It
into the scalp. Allow the liquid to dry
in the scalp, and once a week. If the
hair is very oily, shampoo, using; the
following mixture:
Yolk of one egg, one pint of rain
water Tlukewarm), one ounce of rose
mary spirits.
Use half the shampoo mixture the
first time, rinse thoroughly, apply the
.second half of the mixture and rinse
until the water runs off absolutely
clear. Dry In sunlight and do not
dress the hair or even braid It, until
it is absolutely dry and free from all
odor.
If you ' have trouble keeping your
hair In curl, dispense with hot Irons
and try kid curlers, separating the hair
into rather small locks and moistening
with the following lotion before put
ting on the curlers:
Ono ounce of gum arable, one-half
ounce of good moist sugar, three
quarters pint of pure hot water. Dis
solve this. When this solution is cold
add two fluid ounces of alcohol, six
grains of bichloride of mercury and
BUTTONS ANR EMBROIDERY AS TRIMMINGS.
six grains of salamonlac. These last
two should be dissolved In the alcohol
before admixture. Lastly, add enough
water to make the whole measure one
pint, and perfume with any desired
cologne. Apply to the hair and put up
on kid curlers to dry.
KATHERINE MORTON.
Twice Married.
Bohemian.
"I'm an orphan, sir."- she eald.
He tenderly consoled her.
And when he saw it pleased her. too
His sympathy grew bolder.
"Poor, lonely little one." he said,
"1 also am another;
Twould be tha thins. I'm sure, if I
Should kiss you for your mother' .
He did. but e'en that tnoughtful deed
Seemed hardly to suffice her.
She murmured: "I forgot to say
My pa was married twice, air.
NEVER has a season been that
showed' the little things in such
numbers. Time was when the hat
and dress. were the main things to be
considered, but this season It Is the lit
tle things that count so much. Take a
girl who has just bought a new dress,
and with it she dons a silk blouse left
over from last season, and what Is
the result? -The waist looks miserable
by comparison with the fresh skirt, and
the dress takes on a dowdy look from
the old silk blous.e.
Many of these new waists are made
of plaid Indeed, it seems to be a great
favorite, and coming close after it are
beautiful Persian designs in taffetas
and surahs, which . accord In coloring
with the new cloths. The satin barred
plaids can easily be so arranged as to
give the small-walsted and broad
shouldered effect. Some designers In
the cities have given particular atten
tion to forming the plaids so that they
can be made to match without any
great waste of material. It is a long
time since surah has been worn, but
many of our mothers will remember its
wearing qualities, which should com
mend it to a later generation. Then,
too, they come In such beautiful color
ings, that they could not fall to meet
the approval af the most exacting
taste. The separate waist is separate
n name only, for it must really form
a part of the costume In color, unless
It Is white.
The guimpe waist Is seen more than
any other, and Is ever taking on fresh
and fascinating forms. The fancy
blouse with the effect of strapping in
front and back, is adaptable for all the
new 'fabrics of the season. Made of
crepe de chine with moire or velvet
piping. It is most attractive. While
the model looks rather Intricate it is
Soup Suggestions for the Cooler Weather
WITH the return of cool weather the
family appetite for soups revives.
This is a comforting- thought for .the
hotsewlfe, who must economize, as the
nourishing qualities of meat are secured
in soup at a cheaper price than In roaBts,
steaks, chops or even stews. j
The French consomme is the founda
tion of all clear soups, and its success
depends upon the variety of Ingredients
employed. For the foundation, buy two
pounds of lean beef from the shin, cut
into strips. Add to this any bones you
have on hand, left from roasts, steaks,
chops, either of chicken or beef. Slice
one medium-sized carrot, onion and tur
nip, chop one branch of parsley, one
branch of celery, one sound garlic clove,
one branch of chervil and on leeks. If
you can secure them in your market,
and one tablespoon of salt, 10 whole
black peppers, one clove, five allspice,
one saltspoon of dried thyme and one
sprig of bayleaf. Place all these Ingre
dients In a saucepan, pour - over them
enough cold water juBt to cover them,
and stand on the back of the Are to sim
mer very slowly for an, hour. Then draw
the pan forward over a hot fire and cook
briskly for five minutes, stirring the
while with a wooden spoon. Add two
and one-half quarts of boiling water and
stir again while this comes to a boil;
then cover the pan and let the mixture
simmer slowly for an hour and a half..
If you desire to serve clear, strain
through a soup slee directly Into a
tureen or cups. If you wish to use this
for the foundation for other soups, strain
Into another saucepan.
The Instructions given above seem to
call for a great variety of Ingredients,
but when you think of the various soups
which can be built on this foundation, it
represents time and Ingredients well
spent. You can add to It the various
prepared Italian pastes, macaroni broken
up ' fine and cooked In salted boiling
water, spaghetti In long, slim colls and
the tiny vermicelli alphabets. Grated
Parmesan cheese scattered over the top
of consomme to which Italian pastes
have been added is most appetizing.
For consomme Julienne, cut raw car
rots, two of medium size, in fine narrow
strips, one turnip, the white part of two
leeks, two branches of celery, one small
onion and a very small piece of white
cabbage. Spread these on a board and
sprinkle with one teaspoon of salt and
not so tn putting It together, and It
is quite within the limitations of the
home sewer.
The latest development of the large
armhole Idea takes the form of trim
ming, and here In the simple tucked
blouse we can see. it to great advan
tage. In the illustration It is made of
silk veiling or grenadine, with bands
of taffeta and yoke -of all-over Irish
lace, but everything that Is used for
Indoor gowns is suitable, providing it
is tnin enough to allow for the tucking.
The taffeta bands should be of the
same color, the difference in material
giving the waist sufficient variety.
These bands could be braided or em
broidered if you wish, so that either a
simple or an elaborate blouse could be
evolved from the model, depending
upon the quality of the goods and the
amount of trimming.
The fancy blouse with a modified
loose sleeve Is oftentimes attractive,
and vou will notice that buttons are
playing a great part In the trimming
of all waists this Fall. Piping with
different material, but of the same color-
as the waist, is also .much used.
The blouse with the pleat having the
effect of being buttoned on Is pretty In
the extreme, and allows a chance for a
bit of coronation braiding for the girl
who is deft of finger. This -is a model
that adapts itself well to heavier wool
materials, and even a lightweight of
broadcloth and moire silk, worn with
pretty guimpes of heavy all-over lace.
The blouse with the yoke and sleeves
trimmed with knife, pleatings of silk
is always suitable for the slender girl,
and today's model Is new and extreme
ly simple and effective. Whatever fea
ture the new, up-to-date waist may in
clude, the all-essential one Is some ar
rangement of trimming whereby the
seams that join the sleeves to the
two of granulated sugar. Butter a sauce
pan, add the vegetables and spread a
tablespoon of butter over the top. Add
one and a half gills of hot water, cover
with enamelled lid or heavy white paper
and set this in a hot oven for three
quarters of an hour. Remove and add
the vegetables to the stralnd consomme
and boil ten minutes. Serve very hot. If
you have at hand some cold French peas
or beans, add a few of these and half a
teaspoon of chopped parsley, when you
add other vegetables. Remember that
the beauty of' consomme Julienne lies In
the finely cut or stripped vegetables.
When you are planning to entertain
and serve chicken salad or pattleB, sim
mer the fowls gently and use the broth
Dangers Lurk in the
Oriental Rugs
DR. REMLINGER. head of the Pasteur
Institute In Constantinople, has been
making an Investigation of Oriental rugs
and carpets and has published a summary
of his results in the German Journal of
General and Applied Hygiene. He finds
that the carpets of the better class, the
highly prized antiques or near antiques,
constitute a serious menace to health un
less they are put through a radical cleans
ing and disinfecting process.
The real antiques which have been in
use In Oriental houses or bazaars for
years or generations have been exposed
to the contagion of countless disease
germs. Their texture fits them in a pecu
liar way to gather and retain these Indefi
nitely. These genuine antiques are far less ob
jectionable than the counterfeit antiques.
which have been artificially mellowed.
One of the least objectionable methods
used to soften the colors in the degree
that the European and American market
calls for Is to bury the carpets In trenches
with quantities of stable refuse. When
taken up they are little likely to receive
a thorough cleansing.
Sometimes the carpets are laid down in
frequented places to be walked on, thus
accumulating the bacteria-laden dust of
the Eastern city streets. Or a rug may
be lent to a beggar or street vender, who
sits on It and sleeps in It until It acquires
the semblance of age.
Dr. Remlinger points out that tubercu
losis, throat diseases and catarrh are
prevalent In the rug and carpet trade. He
is of opinion that they are contracted
from handling the fabrics and breathing
the air in which they are opened and agi
tated as they are shown to customers.
The doctor also expresses the opinion that
some otherwise unaccountable outbreaks
of tropical enteric disorders that have
taken place in Paris were due to infection
from Oriental rugs.
The most thorough and efficient process
of cleansing would be disinfection by
steam. This would do no harm to the
rugs, and it is an absolutely certain meth
od of killing bacteria. He thinks that It
should be generally adopted as a prelim
inary to the importation of Eastern fab
rics into any Occidental country.
How to Overcome
Nervousness
HAVE plenty of fresh air. You can
not handicap yourself In any more
serious manner than to work or sleep In
stale air.
Do not expend any more energy than
is necessary in accomplishing your daily
tasks. W'hen you talk do not contort
your face, move your hands and feet.
What Is the use of spending so much
unnecessary strength in talking or In
listening?
Do not clinch the hands. Do not tap
the feet. Learn to be reposeful.
If you learn to relax In a general way
you will worry less about unavoidable
delays in cars and ferry boats and will
save your temper and prevent wrinkles.
The disposition Is so quickly affected
by the state of the nerves that one
owes it to those about them to learn
the lesson of relaxation. Do not try to
do a hard day's work without a fair
start.
Learn to eat a sensible breakfast, and
remember, too, that before you can
overcome nervousness you will have io
pay attention to a sensible diet, and
In acquiring the proper sort of rest each
night.
Do you know how to go to sleep?
The benefits which you derive from
the night's rest will depend to a great
extent upon the manner in which you
go to sleep.
In the first place, don't allow yourself
to think.
Never make any plans for the next
day's 'work, nor mourn about the failure
of the day that has gone.
Stretch and turn as much as you like
until you are ready to fall asleep. Re-
blouse are concealed. This blouse Is
trimmed to bring- about such an ef
fect. The shoulder line is by no means
broad, and It is consequently becoming
to almost all figures except to the
woman of very large proportions. The
one shown today was made of gray
green crepe de chine, with trimmings
of velvet lust one tone darker, the wall
of Troy 'pattern being outlined In gllt
soutach braid, and knire pleatings 01
gray green taffeta. The combination
of several materials in a single gar
ment marks the very latest styles, and
the blouse Js altogether one much to be
commended. It could be utilized as a
model for the entire, gown or made up
as a separate waist to be worn with
the new Fall street suit. -
A new color has shown itself within
the last few days, and Is known as
"Tea-Green." It is really almost a
black-green, yet with that tinge of
silvery gray. It Is a most charming
color for the elderly woman who dis
likes to shroud herself In blak from
one season to another. No striking
colors are seen at all everything
seems to have a so-called gray shadow
over it, and all contrasts of colors are
to be avoided. Everything Is artistic,
and bright colors are seldom seen and
are then only Introduced In touches.
Then, too, remember the little things
and be sure that you wear the right
little things with the right big things.
By that I mean do not wear a long
lavender chiffon veil In the morning
with your small walking hat. Do not
wear soiled white kid gloves with
your afternoon suit. See that your
shoes are kept up,- that your yells are
not torn and that your accessories are
in keeping with the garments you are
wearing. As In the great problems of
life, so It Is in dress I. e., little tilings
count most. MARY DEAN.
thus drawn off for soup. To give this a
good flavor, place In a separate saucepan
one carrot, one turnip, one onion, two
leeks, two branches of celery, the same
of parsley, all slice! and chopped, one
sprig of bay leaf, one clove and one
saltspoon of dried thyme. Cover with
hot water, set on the back of the stove
and simmer gently. Strain the chicken
broth and the water from the vegetables
into a common saucepan and skin all
the fat from the surface. Have ready
the rice, cooked as follows. Wash two
teaspoons of rice, plunge at once Into
salted boiling water, cook twenty min
utes, drain, add to soup and simmer
fifteen minutes longer. Serve In cups
with finger rolls.
lax all your muscles. Let the bed hold
you up; don't try to hold yourself.
The very shape of your bodv Is under
half conscious control. Perfect rest
means the relaxing of that control.
The Memoranda Habit.
"I think," said the doctor, "that
It's time, for somebody to utter a
word of warning about certain chains
of bondage which a good many people
are busy fastening on themselves. I
refer to mental bondage, not to
physical, and It's slavery to lists.
memoranda, notes whatever you want
to call It that I d like to register my
protest against. .
Go into any store any day and pick
out the mo&t harrled-looking woman
you can find among the customers;
sooner or later you will see her con
sulting a list of things to do, and then
nervously push on to the doing. l,She
has mapped out a plan of campaign
which. In nine cases out of ten. Is more
than she can reasonably expect to ac
complish, and she Is making herself
thoroughly unhappy In realizing the
situation.
"Not even the most systematic man
or woman can tell exactly what Is go
ing to happen the next day or hour, and
the emergency, which la apt to be much
more important than the routine hap
pening fully expected, finds people ill
prepared when there Is annoyance or
positive conrern as is usually the case
over the breaking up of a schedule.
There ought to be for comfort, and for
progress as well, a certam elasticity in
arrangements, and it's the part of w IB
Increasing his burdens, isn't aware of It
and he suffers in consequence,"
i . i
8TRAPFINS FRONT AND BACK.
LATEST DEVELOPMENT OF
Ghats With Half-Grown-Ups
EN'T she the ' daintiest, dearest
thing," said an enthusiastic ad-
mlrer of a certain young woman,
who was flitting among her mother's
guests, passing sandwiches and tea.
Her frock was a simple affair of white
barred muslin, but fresh as if It had
just come from the laundry. Her hair
was brushed until it shone like burn
ished gold. Her slippers were finished
with smart little leather bows and trig
black lisle stockings showed just at
the ankle. Inexpensive was her whole
outfit, yet It radiated daintiness, as the
young man had said.
But the serpent was In this modern
Eden, for a small brother, not too small,
however, to be most observing, gave
vent to the snort peculiar to knicker
bockers and the awkward age, and re
plied: "Yep, but "you ought to see her in
the morning, when her hair ain't curled.
Dad said the other morning If she
didn't burn that old flowered wrapper,
he would. Girls are queer. They dress
so much sometimes, and so little
others."
Of course It was very, very naughty
of younger brother to thus betray the
skelton In the domestic closet, and In
cldentally do his sister harm tn the
eyes of her admirer, but then, who was
really to blame?
The girl and her mother!
The mother probably had started out
her domestic career all wrong; by think
ing; that any old thins was good enough
to wear at her housework. She never
dressed up save 'when she was going
out or company was coming In, and
strangely enough that sort of woman
is always talking about how dreadful
ly overworked she Is. and how she
never has time to dress. The Idea of
having simple, washable and attractive
dresses in which to do her work never
THE LARGE ARMHOLE IDEA.
entered her head. Working- ,hours were
not worthy of attrr-ctlve frocks.
And so the daughter fell Into the
habit and did not put on her pretty
school frocks until just time to leave
the house or to go to the matinee. Or
If she worked In an office or shop, she
would lie around all day Sunday in a
kimono, and dress Just in- time to go
out In the evening.
The kimono and negligee have done
much to make the American girl slov
enly and unuattractive. Often they are
not really respectable, but are worn
with a single safety-pin or brooch at
the throat, flying open to dlsclpss
skirts and other lingerie. A young
man who collects for a piano firm was
telling me the other day that the
visions he had of untidy women In
their own homes, women whom later
he saw on the Btreet, arrayed In all
the srlory of Solomon, made him wonder
why men married at all, or why, mar
rying, they ever remained within their
own doors.
The kimono, or cotton erepe negli
gee, .long or short, with heelless slip
pers to match. Is meant for bedroom
wear alone. It Is not Intended for
wear at the breakfast table. And once
girl begins to wear a. negligee or
kimono to breakfast she Is apt to ap
pear also with her hair twisted care
lessly atop her unbrushed head or In a
rough braid down her back. If she
has no slippers, she comes down with
her shoes unbuttoned and unlaced.
She means to dress right after
breakfast, but she does not. Instead,
she straightens up the parlor with
kimono flying and hair hanging and
shoelaces tripping her up. She daw
dles a bit at the piano and finally goes
to the door to receive the mall at the
hands of the postman. Oh, such femi
nine sights as the postman must see
and In nice-looking houses, too!
And then she goes up to her room.
makes her bed and sits down to sew
or read, thinking she will change to a
house frock after she has rested a '
bit. But the lunch bell finds her still
untidy, and it Is mid-afternoon before
she really dresses herself respectably.
Of course, the man - who wants to
marry her sees her only after she has
discarded the kimono, after she has
laced her shoes, after she has brushed
her hair and he does not dream that
before the honeymoon is over such a
vision of untidyness will greet blm at
the breakfast table, because the girl
Is bound to slip back Into her untidy
ways after the first pleasure of wear
ing the trousseau frocks Is over.
It does not take long In the
morning to slip on a house dress or
neatly fitted wrapper, instead of the
loose, flowing kimono. No girl will
wear unlaced shoes or run-down slip
pers with a pretty house frock. More
over, she will not be able to endure the
sight of an untidy head with a clean
frock and so the mission of the dainty
house frock Is fulfilled.
Just try this method, girls. Give
some thought to the drees you wear
before your brothers and fathers at the
breakfast table, and then your small
brothers will have no reason for dis
closing family skeletons to admlreri
whose admiration Is really justified.
PRUDENCE STANWSH.
Socialist Husband's Farewell,
Puck.
Fare thee well! It is forever.
So forever fare thee well!
It la bent that we should sever;
Circumstances so compel.
We have lived ten years together.
Side by side, like podded peas.
But we now must break the tether
We are not affinities.
Ten long years were we connected
Each the other thought a prize;
And I never once suspected
That we didn't harmonize.
But I've recently been bitten -
By the Socialistic bus. ,
And as recently been smitten
By the charms of Laura Huge.
LAura is my heaven-born fellow;
Laura Is a thoroughbred:
Laura's hair, like mine, is yellow; "
Laura's soul, like mine, la red.
Laura is my bright aurora.
And the idol of my eye- ,r
But you've had enough of Laura!
Very likely so shall L
Bon voyage! And stop your crying!
AM aboard! Here comes the tug;
In a moment I'll be flying
To the arms of Laura Hugf.