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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 21, 1907)
THE StriVJDAr OKEG4JSIAX, PORTLAXD, JULY 21, 190T. 1 Midsummer Stitchery for Wee Girlies BY the middle of July, soap, sun and iron have done their deadly work In the wardrobe of Miss Baby, so admirably planned and daintily executed al the beginning of the season. Laces which were guaranteed to wash well, now look bedraggled and lifeless. Colors that the busy mother was quite sure would not fade, have deteriorated Into . streaked yellows and spotted blues. And sometimes the mother who thought she would not have to put hand to needle or machine until September, at least, finds herself wondering whether she will not have to make a second complete wardrobe, and certainly she regretted the fancy stitchery on which she spent so much time In May and 'June. To begin with, overhaul Miss Baby's wardrobe with a view to stretching its possibilities. It Is practically Impossible to make over frocks for 2-year-olds, but some little garments can be made to do another duty. For Instance, if the fine lucking and lace from which you built a yoke and cuffs for the puffed sleeves has given away, cut out the yoke and do away with the cuffs. Over the shoulders run straps of tucking or bands of In sertion, and finish the cuff simply with a narrow band. Then with arms and throat bare, use this little frock for very hot days. If both yoke and upper part of the dress are worn or stained, cut these parts away and use the bottom of the dress for a petticoat. A very good way to do this is to buy a combination petti coat and waist pattern, such as is shown in the accompanying Illustration. The waist portion can be built from cambrio or even lawn for hot weather wear, though long cloth will outlast either of the other fabrics, and the discarded sec tions of the half-worn dress can be re shaped and attached to the waist with buttons. Incidentally, use the flat bone buttons or flat, cheap pearl buttons, never the large porcelain kind, for attaching skirt to waists like this. Sometimes a half-worn frock can be made over Into a princess petticoat which is the very best sort for wear under one piece frocks. As little dresses " generally . give out around the neck and at the wrists (from much rubbing in the process of laundering), the body of the dress of the skirt pieces are worth making over Into skirts. The little princess garment shown in the illustra tion, requires only one and one-eighth A Favorite Coat. The Gentle Art of Taking Infinire Pains ONE reason why the French woman has an air seldom attained by the American girl is the infinite pains which she expends, on little touches of her toilet, especially in Summer. The American girl, however particular she may be about the finishing touches in Winter, is very apt to be careless and hasty in Summer, and then won der why the dainty Summer frocks, hats and parasols do not lend the charm to her appearance which she had anticipated. Daintiness in a dress or hat merely serves to accentuate any carelessness in facial makeup or hair-dressing, and that is why so many women who spend large sums on dress secure such unsatisfactory results. Part of the . expenditures diverted to the care of hair and face, exquisitely dainty inake-up of complexion and dressing, of the hair, would give far better effect. The athletic girl is admirable In homespun or linen with rolling collar ' and upturned sleeves. But her sun burned face, her peeling nose and wind-tossed hair never combine well with silk mull and lace. Daintiness is rather at a premium this Summer, so take a few of these following tips to heart and make use of them when seated before your toilet table. First, keep your hair free from per spiration and . matting by frequent shampoos and drying in the sun. If it looks a bit heavy or oily. In spite of recent shampooing, try this treatment before retiring: mix orris root (pow dered) with a.3 much pure alcohol or cologne water as will shake up well together. Pour this Into a shallow dish and dip your lialr brush into the mix ture: then brush tho hair thoroughly, making sure to get into the scalp. The orris root and alcohol will carry off most of the oil and perspiration and leave the lmlr fluffy and dry. Then part your hair In a circle all the way round, front, 3ldes and back, like a long fringe. Braid what is left at tho crown and twist lightly. Then with kid curlers or patent crimpers of any sort, or even soft rags, put the fringe up tightly, and in the morning you will have an effective wave that will last longer than If you use the Irons. Nothing is more unsightly than a girl who curls her hair just on the surface and rats the straight hair be neath. If you wave your hair at all, wave it so deeply that the straight locks beneath -are completely hidden. Do not rat your hair at all. Good coif fures now are brushed to satin smooth ness after being waved. Do not wave or curl the front of the hair and dress the back plainly. The back hair, and especially tho scolding locks, should be dressed a3 carefully as tho front, or the lines of your head w-ill be out of proportion. Do not apply makeup or even pow der to your face and forget your neck and ears. If you have a harsh, dry kin, apply cold cream, rubbing it In ) Bishop Dxess for Play Wear. yards of material 36 Inches wide, so It will be seen that a half-worn little froelc will do admirably for the body of the wee garment. The embroidery' may have been part of the dress, with perhaps a fresh bit around neck and sleeves. Torchon lace or a good imitation thereof. Is much better for trimming children's clothe than the daintier Vals. and Point da Paris should have no part In the 2-year-old's wardrobe. The advantage of this combination of petticoats and waist In a princess gar ment lies in the fact that on very hot days, the dress may be laid aside and Miss Two-year-old can play about the house or even on the veranda in her princess petticoat. Its disadvantage lies in the fact that a second waist must be worn under it, on which to at tach the drawers. For this reason, many mothers prefer the combination waist and petticoat. detahed. so that both petticoat and drawers may be but toned to the same waist on a different set of buttons. Simplicity marks the lingerie of Miss Baby. . Plain scalloped edged and dotted embrqldery has taken the place of more elaborate designs for trimming and very few tucks are used. The picturesque, developed along simple lines. Id a feature of .juvenile raiment this season. That Is. little frocks that are quaintly old-fashioned in their lines are made from plain ma terials and are little trimmed. This means very short puffed sleeves, square or round necks, showing the flesh lib erally, rather long skirted effects, no ruffles or tucks, but deep hems, and short stockings or sox with diminutive black slippers. s This innovation of extreme simplicity is a boon to both mothers and children. It means far less labor to the mother, far less fussing for the children. Five or six of these simple little dresses In the weekly laundry does not mean so much, but were they covered with tucks, frills, lace and embroidery the work would be trebled. The materials themselves are tine and very sheer, except in the case of the linen frocks for cool mornings, and most of the embroidery is what is known as "blind" work that is no holes in It, but more on the order of shadow embroidery. This sort of trim- with a rotary motion, firBt on the face, then on the throat and finally behind the ears, until you feel that it is all absorbed by the pores. Then dust the lace, throat and back of the ears with powder, taking care that you put it on evenly. Frnally, just before leav ing your room, rub the nose again lightly with powder. If you have large pores, you had best apply the powder with a chamois or piece of silky flan nel, as a puff is useful only to the girl with the absolutely flawless skin. It you have a fine down on your face, rub the powder in firmly with the chamois, so that It gets beneath the down, then dust any traces of powder off the down with a clean puff. Be careful nol to get powder in your eyebrows or lashes. I am not an advocate of cosmetics, but as many girls insist upon using them, I can only say that if you must do so, then apply them with infinite care. If you use rouge, apply It after the cold cream and before applying the powder. Rub it in Very lightly with a bit of fur or rabbit's foot, not too high on the cheeks and never running it up into the temples. Use a rotary motion in applying it, and work it off gradually in a cfrele, with the outer edges lightest, and the center deepest. That IS. blend It from the center out ward until the last circle of rouge Colors in Linen Neckwear DAINTY TOUCHES of color showing on all sorts of white neckwear Is one of the marks of this season's novelties. Fancy has let itself" loose In the matter of bowe, ties and fancy frills for women to wear at the throat; and nothing Is more alluring than to lean over the counters filled with doz ens of varieties of theBe attractive little accessories to the Summer ward robe. The return of the tailored shirt waist is largely responsible for these neckties, although their adoption is quite universal for blouses of all de scriptions, except the dainty lingerie waists. Some of the smartest' suits are showing turnover collars and cuffs of eyelet em broidery, mostly white, yet here and there -Just a touch of color the same shade as the dress. The dainty little lawn ties, some of them not over an inch In width, have tiny polka dots of pink, blue or black at the ends. Nothing is striking in color It is just ' a mere suggestion, and it is this difference that makes the smart tie stand out pre-eminent among the cheap ones. The necktie that once went around the neck, stained the waists often times and was always exceedingly warm, has now been superseded by the little how sewed on a shaped bit of celluloid that has a patent catch to slip over the melts right into the tint- of vour skin. Then over this dust powder lightly. Do not use cold cream, powder and rouge, if you have an oily skin. Bet ter far to select a liquid powder, whose foundation is- a stringent lotion. Cleanse the face first with hot wnter and a pure unscented soap, then give at least 10 minutes to rubbing the lotion, not forgetting the-line where hair and face meet and also the im portant space behind the ears. 1 will be glad to furnish the formula for this excellent lotion on request, though It has often been published in this col umn. If your eye-brows and lashes are colorless, your face will lack character and strength and contrast, so it really pays to have your eyebrows and lashes colored. This is not an expensive pro cess, but it must be repeated at regu lar intervals, as all hair dyes fade. Do not-darken your lashes and brows for a daylight appearance, but In the even ing, you can apply Just a little touch of brown or black with a pencil which comes for this purpose. Do not ima gine that you can get the same results by using a buvnt match. This always smears and makes an irregular line of dark color. Eyebrows must be etched delicately, not blurred. KATHERINE MORTON. front collar button. These fit in closely to the collar, and prevent that thick look that was caused by the tie going around the 'neck. Some of these bows are made of finely pleated blue silk, with Just an edge of white the entire bow not meas uring over an Inch and a half In length. In fact, all neckwear this year Is small In slxe The Windsor tie is seen on the girl who likes a flowing effect at her throat, but this girl should be slight, and the stout woman1 should confine herself to the plainer rosettes, or those with long straight ends that can be pinned to the front of the shirtwaist with a scarf pin. Women can. If they choose, show great Individuality in these touches of color at their throats. Select the colors that are becoming, no matter what the fash ion may be. Let the blonde girl, select the dull blues and dull greens, while the brunette can occasionally wear a touch of red. browns, tans and yellow. The new colors that are now invading the shops and have just arrived from the other side, IF PERPLEXED ISf MATTERS OF DRESS, beauty or etiquette, write to Miss Dean, Miss Morton . or Miss Standlsh, care of The Sunday Orcgonlan, Inclosing; a self-addressed and stamped envelope for reply. This Is a quicker method than having your question answered In the columns of the paper. Besides, yon receive a personal, Intimate answer. Be careful to address your return envelope accurately. .Letters come back to us every day, stamped "Insufficient address" or "party cannot be found." ' liy v . give one the impression of being faded. None of them are bright, and many of them are. dull, but they are new, and hence will be much worn by the up-to-date girl. The piece of ribbon that was worn around the neck and tied in front with the turnover collar. 1b quite out of date, and the smart-looking llnert collar has taken its place with perky lfTtie bows and rosettes to offset It. " MARY DEAN. Household Helps. When ants are troublesome, sprinkle sugar through small pieces of sponge and leave these about the pantry shelves. In a short time the ants will be holding a high carnival. Plunge the sponges in boiling water and set again. If you wish to make your own panne velvet, first dip your velvet In cold water, getting every part of it thoroughly wet, but be very careful not to crush It. Shake the water out with the nap held down. While wet put the face of the velvet on a cloth and Iron on wrong side, iron ing In one direction. Turn and Iron once with the nap through the cloth and on the right side. Remove cloth and iron once with rather a hot iron on right side. Iron with the nap. pressing hard. This is a very successful method. If In doubt just try a bit of old velvet. To laundry silk successfully make a lather of white soap and water that Is merely warm; hot water will yellow silk. Immerse the silk and rub it well with the hands. Squeeze and rinse In water of the same temperature to which a little blue and a little turpentine have been added. Squeeze again and rinse In rather cool water, to which alcohol has been added In proportion of one tablespoonful to a quart of water. This Imparts the sheen and finish found on new silk. Squeeze and shake each piece well and roll up in a clean sheet till ready to press. Iron with a moderately hot iron, while the silk is still damp. A good remedy for keeping moths out of furs and woolen pieces Is to wrap the fur tightly in a piece of newspaper that has been soaked in turpentine. Place In an old pillow case or bag. There Is absolutely no danger that the moths will disturb any piece so treated. Discarded dimity skirts make very at tractive bureau scarfs. They may be bleached white. If necessary, and then conventional designs worked on them with floss or cut out cretonne designs appltqued on. Providing for the Season. Baltimore American. "Dear, let us take a little cottage in the country-this Summer." "All right, darling; but be sure and insist on a furnace in good order." 1 'ML Made Over for Heal Hot Days. Rules of Calling That All Should Observe MANY pleasant friendships and ac quaintances have been ' missed in this world by one person waiting for the other to call, and neither one of them ever making the Hrst break. There are certain set rules about the first call that everybody should observe. The stranger who moves to your town, and the bride who has Just come there to live must wait for the older Inhabitants to call upon her. Thjs call should not be delayed from. day to day, and week to wejk, for It is hardly a compliment to your new neighbor. Give her a chance to get settled, and some afternoon go over to see her. If you are married you should leave one of your own cards and two of your husband's. This, call should be returned by the newcomer within a fortnight. By that time you will find you have many things to talk about and most of the formality will have worn away. At this season of the year many girls are entertaining friends from out of town and they are deserving of immediate at tention in the way of calls. If you have a friend who has a girl visiting her, you should call on them both within a day or two. At this call you need only stay a short time, and it can be informally made In the morning if you know the hostess very well. If you are so situated in your home life that you can enter tain this friend and her guest during the latter's stay, you should ask them over for supper, an afternoon at cards or some slight form of entertainment. The friend and her guest must then re turn your call within a few days. This same rule will, of course, apply to you when a friend Is visiting in your home. The other girls In your homt town. must call at once, and If possible, offer some return of the hospitality you showed their guest. Perhaps one of the most dreaded calls, and one so often delayed, is the call of condolence. In time of grief, your friends are apt to be hyper-critical, and. In a way, they are Justified in this feel ing. As soon as a death is announce you should send a card if you only, know the people slightly; but should they be intimate friends of yours, send around a note asking If there Is anything you can do for them. Then within three weeks, after the funeral you should call in person. Unless you are a person of rare tact and know the family very well. It is wisest only to refer to their recent loss. This is not an easy thing to do, and oftentimes just the fact that you are there is sufficient evidence of your sympathy. However, in cases of be reavement, your good judgment must mln. will mitwenf nil th nnpnwnrlr 1 goods ever manufactured, as it is not so apt to tear with the inon. not to catch on furniture, etc., while the little ones are playing. Last year at the bottom of the sim ple dresses the embroidery was fulled on. like a- ruffle, while this year, if embroidery is used at all, it is simply stitched on the same width as the goods, just as if you were lengthening the dress. Occasionally, flouncing is used for little square-necked dresses, but on the whole the plain materials, with a row or two of blind insertion, or perhaps Just a few tucks, are more universal. Another old style that Is revived is the bishop dress for the youngsters to play in, and if made in fine material Is quite pretty enough to visit In. How ever, it works up so well in little checks with Just a touch of white em broidery at the neck and sleeves that I think It is most popular developed In that sort of material. The sleeves of these-bishop dresses form a part of the dress and are Joined right on to the neck band, and you cannot imagine how a child welcomes the freedom of these little play frocks. The same simplicity Is found In outer garments, and the plain long coat that falls in unbroken lines from the shoul ders is the favorite for young children, and it is always becoming to then). Time was when belts were used, fancy buttons, colored braids and even lace, but those must all be put away for an other time. A little velvet collar can hardly be classed as trimming . To some children who are particularly pale or sallow. It lends a tone to their cheeks, and for such children it Is recommended. Even in midsummer the little ones are apt to need a light-weight Jacket, such as n reefer, and this year pongee seems to have the lead. Do not put a bright, red reefer on the baby In the hot weather. Pongees come in every beauti ful shade that could be desired, dull guide you largely as to what you most say. There are times when two women who meet at the home of some mutual friend, they find ihey are congenial and exchange cards. Then the question arises, who shall call first? It is, per haps, a good rule to follow that If one of them Is married and the other single, let the single woman call first on the matron. Or let the younger woman call on the older. Every month I receive letters say ing: "I was Invited to dinner, but I did not go must I pay a call?" To this I say most emphatically, "Yes." It matter not whether you went to the function or not the fact that you were invited demands that you call on the hostess. These calls should be made within two weeks after the dinner, ball, reception or luncheon. If you do not call, your hostess has every reason to feel offended, and to realize that her hospitality wras not desired. It is never necessary to remove your hat or gloves in making the average call, even If tea is served. Of course, in in formal calls wbere you stay perhaps an hour, you may remove your gloves, but generally speaking, you do not re move them. Men, however, should never enter a parlor with their over coats on, their hat and stick in their Two Ways to THERE! are two ways of making starch, and it is Just a question of convenience and suitability which would be best. One kind is called boiled starch or boiling water starch; the other cold water starch. Now It Is only when starch of any kind comes to boiling heat that it has any stiffening property whatever, there fore, in the one case the stiffening prop erty Is brought out by the boiling water, in the other case it is only brought out by the heat of the iron. , All articles that are heavy, or that are wanted to be very stiff or where a very hot Iron can be used are better starched with cold-water starch. In case of !p.co. fine or . sewed muslin or any article that should be flexible, a hot Iron would not do at all. and so the starch would not be cooked, but would have a floury appear ance. Have everything at hand before commencing to iron. Lift the Irons as little as possible and iron quietly, at the same time press well. Ironing must be done in a good light, re quires a great deal of practice and can not be done well unless done with speed. There is an art in the way clothes are lifted and moved about. Handle the clothes so as not to crush the parts that. have been smoothed. AU clothes must be thoroughly aired be blues, reseda greens, and the natural color are all more desirable than the vivid shades which should be held in abeyance until the "Winter winds are fell. Attention should also be called to the wane of the white shoes that were so much worn a season or two ago. This year the child that Is well dressed and whose mother knows what Is the right and the wrong thing to put on the baby, wears brown shoes and stockings or sox and little black slippers with white stockings or sox. There are times when white shoes are worn, but It is only occasionally. Any child un der five with little white sox and a black slipper with a strap over the in step, makes the quaintest picture pos sible. Putting a white shoe on a child and then sending him out to play in the dirt. Is obviously a silly thing to do. as nothing Is more repellant than dirty white shoes, and white shoes are very apt to be dirty. Almost all the babies wearing little plain pique hats, the tops of which are butoned on. These little hats protect the baby's eyes, and are readily laund ered. For the little one who stlU wears a cap. one made of a sheer handker chief is as pretty and effective as those costing much more. These should bo fitted to the head of the child and tied with a tiny pink or blue ribbon under the chin. Sunbonnets for the children who. play outdoors are again much worn, and can readily be made at home. While the older children who wear straw hats have them trimmed with Just an extreme ly large bow of ribbon or a wreath of flowers. MART DEAN. To Wash AVoolen Articles. First Turn Inside out and shake very well to remove all dust. Second Wash In warm soap lather, using soap jelly. Knead and squeeze the garment, well washing both sides, only rubbing the soap on the most soiled parts, as rubbing tends to harden the fabric. Third Rinse several times in warm water to remove the soap. Add a very small portion of soap to last rinsing water, as this makes the flannel soft. Fourth Wring as dry as possible and hang up to dry at once, shaking the garment and pulling It into shape once or twice during the day. This raises the pile and softens the material. In order to avoid the shrink ing of woolen things lukewarm water should be used both for washing and rinsing. hands. The latter should be left with his outer garments in the hall before he-enters the room. Nothing is so an noying and such bad form as to have a man in your drawing-room twirling a cane and fussing with fit's bat. There Is no excuse for bringing them into the room, and it should never be done. Calls of congratulations for engage ments, births, etc., are seldom made except among the most Intimate of friends. It is sufficient to tell your friends that you hope they will be happy when you meet them casually, but Is rarely necessary to make a formal call for that purpose. I often think if more women would take their growing daughter with them on the occasion of their "calls, that there would be less uncertainty as they arc Into womanhood. Everyone knows that the things done in childhood become to us as second nature, and the things wo do easiest we almost always . do best. As a rule, children like to do the thing their mother does, and they are easily persuaded to accompany you. Then as they approach - the time when it is necessary for them to go out in the social world, they do not fear It. but regard it as an event to which they have looked' forward with pleasure and for which they have been fully trained. PRUDENCE STANDISH. Make Starch fore they are laid away. Although they seem dry aftfr ironing, there Is always a certain amount of moisture which clings to them. After folding open out so far then hang up in a warm place until perfectly dry through. The greatest care and attention should be paid to this, as want of thought may lead to the gravest results. She Didn't Like Them. Last winter, in the North of England, a girl. 14 years old. fell into a deep pit while taking a Bhort cut across the fields to a town, and although two hundred people turned out and looked for her for five days, she was eventually found by a dog. The animal happened to run "by the mouth of the shaft and caught ber scent and began barking. The girl went without eating for three days, and then began on her cowhide shoes, and she had devoured one and part of the other when hauled up. It you never ate your shoes you can take her word for it that the taste Is not at all pleasant. She says she would rather sit down to one dish of oatmeal than to a dozen pairs of cowhides. Cryntal. malted and rlrrtroplated, has hn successfully used in France to coun terfeit gold coins. Princess Petticoat.
