THE StriVJDAr OKEG4JSIAX, PORTLAXD, JULY 21, 190T.
1
Midsummer Stitchery for Wee Girlies
BY the middle of July, soap, sun and
iron have done their deadly work
In the wardrobe of Miss Baby, so
admirably planned and daintily executed
al the beginning of the season. Laces
which were guaranteed to wash well,
now look bedraggled and lifeless. Colors
that the busy mother was quite sure
would not fade, have deteriorated Into
. streaked yellows and spotted blues. And
sometimes the mother who thought she
would not have to put hand to needle
or machine until September, at least,
finds herself wondering whether she will
not have to make a second complete
wardrobe, and certainly she regretted
the fancy stitchery on which she spent
so much time In May and 'June.
To begin with, overhaul Miss Baby's
wardrobe with a view to stretching its
possibilities. It Is practically Impossible
to make over frocks for 2-year-olds, but
some little garments can be made to do
another duty. For Instance, if the fine
lucking and lace from which you built a
yoke and cuffs for the puffed sleeves has
given away, cut out the yoke and do
away with the cuffs. Over the shoulders
run straps of tucking or bands of In
sertion, and finish the cuff simply with a
narrow band. Then with arms and throat
bare, use this little frock for very hot
days. If both yoke and upper part of the
dress are worn or stained, cut these
parts away and use the bottom of the
dress for a petticoat. A very good way
to do this is to buy a combination petti
coat and waist pattern, such as is shown
in the accompanying Illustration. The
waist portion can be built from cambrio
or even lawn for hot weather wear,
though long cloth will outlast either of
the other fabrics, and the discarded sec
tions of the half-worn dress can be re
shaped and attached to the waist with
buttons. Incidentally, use the flat bone
buttons or flat, cheap pearl buttons, never
the large porcelain kind, for attaching
skirt to waists like this.
Sometimes a half-worn frock can be
made over Into a princess petticoat
which is the very best sort for wear
under one piece frocks. As little dresses
" generally . give out around the neck
and at the wrists (from much rubbing
in the process of laundering), the body
of the dress of the skirt pieces are
worth making over Into skirts. The little
princess garment shown in the illustra
tion, requires only one and one-eighth
A Favorite Coat.
The Gentle Art of Taking Infinire Pains
ONE reason why the French woman
has an air seldom attained by the
American girl is the infinite pains
which she expends, on little touches
of her toilet, especially in Summer.
The American girl, however particular
she may be about the finishing touches
in Winter, is very apt to be careless
and hasty in Summer, and then won
der why the dainty Summer frocks,
hats and parasols do not lend the
charm to her appearance which she
had anticipated. Daintiness in a dress
or hat merely serves to accentuate
any carelessness in facial makeup or
hair-dressing, and that is why so many
women who spend large sums on dress
secure such unsatisfactory results.
Part of the . expenditures diverted to
the care of hair and face, exquisitely
dainty inake-up of complexion and
dressing, of the hair, would give far
better effect.
The athletic girl is admirable In
homespun or linen with rolling collar '
and upturned sleeves. But her sun
burned face, her peeling nose and
wind-tossed hair never combine well
with silk mull and lace. Daintiness is
rather at a premium this Summer, so
take a few of these following tips to
heart and make use of them when
seated before your toilet table.
First, keep your hair free from per
spiration and . matting by frequent
shampoos and drying in the sun. If it
looks a bit heavy or oily. In spite of
recent shampooing, try this treatment
before retiring: mix orris root (pow
dered) with a.3 much pure alcohol or
cologne water as will shake up well
together. Pour this Into a shallow dish
and dip your lialr brush into the mix
ture: then brush tho hair thoroughly,
making sure to get into the scalp.
The orris root and alcohol will carry
off most of the oil and perspiration
and leave the lmlr fluffy and dry. Then
part your hair In a circle all the way
round, front, 3ldes and back, like a
long fringe. Braid what is left at tho
crown and twist lightly. Then with
kid curlers or patent crimpers of any
sort, or even soft rags, put the fringe
up tightly, and in the morning you will
have an effective wave that will last
longer than If you use the Irons.
Nothing is more unsightly than a
girl who curls her hair just on the
surface and rats the straight hair be
neath. If you wave your hair at all,
wave it so deeply that the straight
locks beneath -are completely hidden.
Do not rat your hair at all. Good coif
fures now are brushed to satin smooth
ness after being waved. Do not wave
or curl the front of the hair and dress
the back plainly. The back hair, and
especially tho scolding locks, should be
dressed a3 carefully as tho front, or
the lines of your head w-ill be out of
proportion.
Do not apply makeup or even pow
der to your face and forget your neck
and ears. If you have a harsh, dry
kin, apply cold cream, rubbing it In
)
Bishop Dxess for Play Wear.
yards of material 36 Inches wide, so It
will be seen that a half-worn little froelc
will do admirably for the body of the wee
garment. The embroidery' may have been
part of the dress, with perhaps a fresh
bit around neck and sleeves. Torchon
lace or a good imitation thereof. Is much
better for trimming children's clothe
than the daintier Vals. and Point da
Paris should have no part In the 2-year-old's
wardrobe.
The advantage of this combination of
petticoats and waist In a princess gar
ment lies in the fact that on very hot
days, the dress may be laid aside and
Miss Two-year-old can play about the
house or even on the veranda in her
princess petticoat. Its disadvantage
lies in the fact that a second waist
must be worn under it, on which to at
tach the drawers. For this reason,
many mothers prefer the combination
waist and petticoat. detahed. so that
both petticoat and drawers may be but
toned to the same waist on a different
set of buttons.
Simplicity marks the lingerie of
Miss Baby. . Plain scalloped edged and
dotted embrqldery has taken the place
of more elaborate designs for trimming
and very few tucks are used.
The picturesque, developed along
simple lines. Id a feature of .juvenile
raiment this season. That Is. little
frocks that are quaintly old-fashioned
in their lines are made from plain ma
terials and are little trimmed. This
means very short puffed sleeves, square
or round necks, showing the flesh lib
erally, rather long skirted effects, no
ruffles or tucks, but deep hems, and
short stockings or sox with diminutive
black slippers. s
This innovation of extreme simplicity
is a boon to both mothers and children.
It means far less labor to the mother,
far less fussing for the children. Five or
six of these simple little dresses In the
weekly laundry does not mean so much,
but were they covered with tucks, frills,
lace and embroidery the work would be
trebled. The materials themselves are
tine and very sheer, except in the case
of the linen frocks for cool mornings,
and most of the embroidery is what is
known as "blind" work that is no
holes in It, but more on the order of
shadow embroidery. This sort of trim-
with a rotary motion, firBt on the face,
then on the throat and finally behind
the ears, until you feel that it is all
absorbed by the pores. Then dust the
lace, throat and back of the ears with
powder, taking care that you put it
on evenly. Frnally, just before leav
ing your room, rub the nose again
lightly with powder. If you have large
pores, you had best apply the powder
with a chamois or piece of silky flan
nel, as a puff is useful only to the girl
with the absolutely flawless skin. It
you have a fine down on your face, rub
the powder in firmly with the chamois,
so that It gets beneath the down, then
dust any traces of powder off the down
with a clean puff. Be careful nol to
get powder in your eyebrows or lashes.
I am not an advocate of cosmetics,
but as many girls insist upon using
them, I can only say that if you must
do so, then apply them with infinite
care. If you use rouge, apply It after
the cold cream and before applying the
powder. Rub it in Very lightly with
a bit of fur or rabbit's foot, not too
high on the cheeks and never running
it up into the temples. Use a rotary
motion in applying it, and work it off
gradually in a cfrele, with the outer
edges lightest, and the center deepest.
That IS. blend It from the center out
ward until the last circle of rouge
Colors in Linen Neckwear
DAINTY TOUCHES of color showing
on all sorts of white neckwear
Is one of the marks of this season's
novelties. Fancy has let itself" loose
In the matter of bowe, ties and fancy
frills for women to wear at the throat;
and nothing Is more alluring than to
lean over the counters filled with doz
ens of varieties of theBe attractive
little accessories to the Summer ward
robe. The return of the tailored shirt
waist is largely responsible for these
neckties, although their adoption is
quite universal for blouses of all de
scriptions, except the dainty lingerie
waists.
Some of the smartest' suits are showing
turnover collars and cuffs of eyelet em
broidery, mostly white, yet here and there
-Just a touch of color the same shade as
the dress. The dainty little lawn ties,
some of them not over an inch In width,
have tiny polka dots of pink, blue or
black at the ends. Nothing is striking in
color It is just ' a mere suggestion, and
it is this difference that makes the smart
tie stand out pre-eminent among the
cheap ones. The necktie that once went
around the neck, stained the waists often
times and was always exceedingly warm,
has now been superseded by the little
how sewed on a shaped bit of celluloid
that has a patent catch to slip over the
melts right into the tint- of vour skin.
Then over this dust powder lightly.
Do not use cold cream, powder and
rouge, if you have an oily skin. Bet
ter far to select a liquid powder, whose
foundation is- a stringent lotion.
Cleanse the face first with hot wnter
and a pure unscented soap, then give
at least 10 minutes to rubbing the
lotion, not forgetting the-line where
hair and face meet and also the im
portant space behind the ears. 1 will
be glad to furnish the formula for this
excellent lotion on request, though It
has often been published in this col
umn. If your eye-brows and lashes are
colorless, your face will lack character
and strength and contrast, so it really
pays to have your eyebrows and lashes
colored. This is not an expensive pro
cess, but it must be repeated at regu
lar intervals, as all hair dyes fade. Do
not-darken your lashes and brows for
a daylight appearance, but In the even
ing, you can apply Just a little touch
of brown or black with a pencil which
comes for this purpose. Do not ima
gine that you can get the same results
by using a buvnt match. This always
smears and makes an irregular line of
dark color. Eyebrows must be etched
delicately, not blurred.
KATHERINE MORTON.
front collar button. These fit in closely
to the collar, and prevent that thick look
that was caused by the tie going around
the 'neck. Some of these bows are made
of finely pleated blue silk, with Just an
edge of white the entire bow not meas
uring over an Inch and a half In length.
In fact, all neckwear this year Is small
In slxe
The Windsor tie is seen on the girl
who likes a flowing effect at her throat,
but this girl should be slight, and the
stout woman1 should confine herself to
the plainer rosettes, or those with long
straight ends that can be pinned to the
front of the shirtwaist with a scarf pin.
Women can. If they choose, show great
Individuality in these touches of color
at their throats. Select the colors that
are becoming, no matter what the fash
ion may be. Let the blonde girl, select
the dull blues and dull greens, while the
brunette can occasionally wear a touch of
red. browns, tans and yellow. The new
colors that are now invading the shops
and have just arrived from the other side,
IF PERPLEXED ISf MATTERS OF DRESS, beauty or etiquette, write to Miss Dean, Miss Morton . or Miss
Standlsh, care of The Sunday Orcgonlan, Inclosing; a self-addressed and stamped envelope for reply. This Is
a quicker method than having your question answered In the columns of the paper. Besides, yon receive a
personal, Intimate answer. Be careful to address your return envelope accurately. .Letters come back to us
every day, stamped "Insufficient address" or "party cannot be found."
'
liy v .
give one the impression of being faded.
None of them are bright, and many of
them are. dull, but they are new, and
hence will be much worn by the up-to-date
girl.
The piece of ribbon that was worn
around the neck and tied in front with
the turnover collar. 1b quite out of date,
and the smart-looking llnert collar has
taken its place with perky lfTtie bows
and rosettes to offset It.
" MARY DEAN.
Household Helps.
When ants are troublesome, sprinkle
sugar through small pieces of
sponge and leave these about the pantry
shelves. In a short time the ants will
be holding a high carnival. Plunge the
sponges in boiling water and set again.
If you wish to make your own panne
velvet, first dip your velvet In cold water,
getting every part of it thoroughly wet,
but be very careful not to crush It. Shake
the water out with the nap held down.
While wet put the face of the velvet
on a cloth and Iron on wrong side, iron
ing In one direction. Turn and Iron once
with the nap through the cloth and on the
right side. Remove cloth and iron once
with rather a hot iron on right side. Iron
with the nap. pressing hard. This is a
very successful method. If In doubt just
try a bit of old velvet.
To laundry silk successfully make a
lather of white soap and water that Is
merely warm; hot water will yellow silk.
Immerse the silk and rub it well with
the hands. Squeeze and rinse In water of
the same temperature to which a little
blue and a little turpentine have been
added. Squeeze again and rinse In rather
cool water, to which alcohol has been
added In proportion of one tablespoonful
to a quart of water. This Imparts the
sheen and finish found on new silk.
Squeeze and shake each piece well and
roll up in a clean sheet till ready to press.
Iron with a moderately hot iron, while the
silk is still damp.
A good remedy for keeping moths out
of furs and woolen pieces Is to wrap the
fur tightly in a piece of newspaper that
has been soaked in turpentine. Place
In an old pillow case or bag. There Is
absolutely no danger that the moths will
disturb any piece so treated.
Discarded dimity skirts make very at
tractive bureau scarfs. They may be
bleached white. If necessary, and then
conventional designs worked on them
with floss or cut out cretonne designs
appltqued on.
Providing for the Season.
Baltimore American.
"Dear, let us take a little cottage in
the country-this Summer."
"All right, darling; but be sure and
insist on a furnace in good order."
1 'ML Made Over for Heal Hot Days.
Rules of Calling That All Should Observe
MANY pleasant friendships and ac
quaintances have been ' missed in
this world by one person waiting
for the other to call, and neither one of
them ever making the Hrst break. There
are certain set rules about the first
call that everybody should observe. The
stranger who moves to your town, and
the bride who has Just come there to live
must wait for the older Inhabitants to
call upon her. Thjs call should not be
delayed from. day to day, and week to
wejk, for It is hardly a compliment to
your new neighbor. Give her a chance
to get settled, and some afternoon go
over to see her. If you are married you
should leave one of your own cards and
two of your husband's. This, call should
be returned by the newcomer within a
fortnight. By that time you will find
you have many things to talk about and
most of the formality will have worn
away.
At this season of the year many girls
are entertaining friends from out of town
and they are deserving of immediate at
tention in the way of calls. If you have
a friend who has a girl visiting her, you
should call on them both within a day
or two. At this call you need only stay
a short time, and it can be informally
made In the morning if you know the
hostess very well. If you are so situated
in your home life that you can enter
tain this friend and her guest during
the latter's stay, you should ask them
over for supper, an afternoon at cards
or some slight form of entertainment.
The friend and her guest must then re
turn your call within a few days.
This same rule will, of course, apply
to you when a friend Is visiting in your
home. The other girls In your homt
town. must call at once, and If possible,
offer some return of the hospitality you
showed their guest.
Perhaps one of the most dreaded calls,
and one so often delayed, is the call of
condolence. In time of grief, your
friends are apt to be hyper-critical, and.
In a way, they are Justified in this feel
ing. As soon as a death is announce
you should send a card if you only,
know the people slightly; but should they
be intimate friends of yours, send around
a note asking If there Is anything you
can do for them. Then within three
weeks, after the funeral you should call
in person. Unless you are a person of
rare tact and know the family very well.
It is wisest only to refer to their recent
loss. This is not an easy thing to do,
and oftentimes just the fact that you
are there is sufficient evidence of your
sympathy. However, in cases of be
reavement, your good judgment must
mln. will mitwenf nil th nnpnwnrlr 1
goods ever manufactured, as it is not
so apt to tear with the inon. not to
catch on furniture, etc., while the little
ones are playing.
Last year at the bottom of the sim
ple dresses the embroidery was fulled
on. like a- ruffle, while this year, if
embroidery is used at all, it is simply
stitched on the same width as the
goods, just as if you were lengthening
the dress. Occasionally, flouncing is
used for little square-necked dresses,
but on the whole the plain materials,
with a row or two of blind insertion,
or perhaps Just a few tucks, are more
universal.
Another old style that Is revived is
the bishop dress for the youngsters to
play in, and if made in fine material Is
quite pretty enough to visit In. How
ever, it works up so well in little
checks with Just a touch of white em
broidery at the neck and sleeves that
I think It is most popular developed
In that sort of material. The sleeves
of these-bishop dresses form a part of
the dress and are Joined right on to
the neck band, and you cannot imagine
how a child welcomes the freedom of
these little play frocks.
The same simplicity Is found In outer
garments, and the plain long coat that
falls in unbroken lines from the shoul
ders is the favorite for young children,
and it is always becoming to then).
Time was when belts were used, fancy
buttons, colored braids and even lace,
but those must all be put away for an
other time. A little velvet collar can
hardly be classed as trimming . To some
children who are particularly pale or
sallow. It lends a tone to their cheeks,
and for such children it Is recommended.
Even in midsummer the little ones are
apt to need a light-weight Jacket, such
as n reefer, and this year pongee seems
to have the lead. Do not put a bright,
red reefer on the baby In the hot
weather. Pongees come in every beauti
ful shade that could be desired, dull
guide you largely as to what you most
say.
There are times when two women
who meet at the home of some mutual
friend, they find ihey are congenial
and exchange cards. Then the question
arises, who shall call first? It is, per
haps, a good rule to follow that If one
of them Is married and the other
single, let the single woman call first
on the matron. Or let the younger
woman call on the older.
Every month I receive letters say
ing: "I was Invited to dinner, but I did
not go must I pay a call?" To this
I say most emphatically, "Yes." It
matter not whether you went to the
function or not the fact that you were
invited demands that you call on the
hostess. These calls should be made
within two weeks after the dinner,
ball, reception or luncheon. If you do
not call, your hostess has every reason
to feel offended, and to realize that her
hospitality wras not desired. It is
never necessary to remove your hat or
gloves in making the average call,
even If tea is served. Of course, in in
formal calls wbere you stay perhaps
an hour, you may remove your gloves,
but generally speaking, you do not re
move them. Men, however, should
never enter a parlor with their over
coats on, their hat and stick in their
Two Ways to
THERE! are two ways of making
starch, and it is Just a question of
convenience and suitability which would
be best. One kind is called boiled starch
or boiling water starch; the other cold
water starch.
Now It Is only when starch of any
kind comes to boiling heat that it has
any stiffening property whatever, there
fore, in the one case the stiffening prop
erty Is brought out by the boiling water,
in the other case it is only brought out by
the heat of the iron. ,
All articles that are heavy, or that are
wanted to be very stiff or where a very
hot Iron can be used are better starched
with cold-water starch. In case of !p.co.
fine or . sewed muslin or any article that
should be flexible, a hot Iron would not
do at all. and so the starch would not be
cooked, but would have a floury appear
ance. Have everything at hand before
commencing to iron.
Lift the Irons as little as possible and
iron quietly, at the same time press well.
Ironing must be done in a good light, re
quires a great deal of practice and can
not be done well unless done with speed.
There is an art in the way clothes are
lifted and moved about. Handle the
clothes so as not to crush the parts that.
have been smoothed.
AU clothes must be thoroughly aired be
blues, reseda greens, and the natural
color are all more desirable than the
vivid shades which should be held in
abeyance until the "Winter winds are
fell.
Attention should also be called to
the wane of the white shoes that were
so much worn a season or two ago.
This year the child that Is well dressed
and whose mother knows what Is the
right and the wrong thing to put on the
baby, wears brown shoes and stockings
or sox and little black slippers with
white stockings or sox. There are
times when white shoes are worn, but
It is only occasionally. Any child un
der five with little white sox and a
black slipper with a strap over the in
step, makes the quaintest picture pos
sible. Putting a white shoe on a child
and then sending him out to play in
the dirt. Is obviously a silly thing to
do. as nothing Is more repellant than
dirty white shoes, and white shoes are
very apt to be dirty.
Almost all the babies wearing little
plain pique hats, the tops of which are
butoned on. These little hats protect
the baby's eyes, and are readily laund
ered. For the little one who stlU wears
a cap. one made of a sheer handker
chief is as pretty and effective as those
costing much more. These should bo
fitted to the head of the child and tied
with a tiny pink or blue ribbon under
the chin. Sunbonnets for the children
who. play outdoors are again much worn,
and can readily be made at home. While
the older children who wear straw hats
have them trimmed with Just an extreme
ly large bow of ribbon or a wreath
of flowers. MART DEAN.
To Wash AVoolen Articles.
First Turn Inside out and shake
very well to remove all dust.
Second Wash In warm soap lather,
using soap jelly. Knead and squeeze
the garment, well washing both sides,
only rubbing the soap on the most
soiled parts, as rubbing tends to harden
the fabric.
Third Rinse several times in warm
water to remove the soap. Add a very
small portion of soap to last rinsing
water, as this makes the flannel soft.
Fourth Wring as dry as possible
and hang up to dry at once, shaking
the garment and pulling It into shape
once or twice during the day.
This raises the pile and softens the
material. In order to avoid the shrink
ing of woolen things lukewarm water
should be used both for washing and
rinsing.
hands. The latter should be left with
his outer garments in the hall before
he-enters the room. Nothing is so an
noying and such bad form as to have
a man in your drawing-room twirling a
cane and fussing with fit's bat. There
Is no excuse for bringing them into
the room, and it should never be done.
Calls of congratulations for engage
ments, births, etc., are seldom made
except among the most Intimate of
friends. It is sufficient to tell your
friends that you hope they will be
happy when you meet them casually,
but Is rarely necessary to make a
formal call for that purpose. I often
think if more women would take their
growing daughter with them on the
occasion of their "calls, that there
would be less uncertainty as they arc
Into womanhood. Everyone knows that
the things done in childhood become
to us as second nature, and the things
wo do easiest we almost always . do
best. As a rule, children like to do the
thing their mother does, and they are
easily persuaded to accompany you.
Then as they approach - the time when
it is necessary for them to go out in
the social world, they do not fear It.
but regard it as an event to which they
have looked' forward with pleasure and
for which they have been fully
trained. PRUDENCE STANDISH.
Make Starch
fore they are laid away. Although they
seem dry aftfr ironing, there Is always
a certain amount of moisture which clings
to them.
After folding open out so far then hang
up in a warm place until perfectly dry
through.
The greatest care and attention should
be paid to this, as want of thought may
lead to the gravest results.
She Didn't Like Them.
Last winter, in the North of England, a
girl. 14 years old. fell into a deep pit
while taking a Bhort cut across the fields
to a town, and although two hundred
people turned out and looked for her for
five days, she was eventually found by
a dog. The animal happened to run "by
the mouth of the shaft and caught ber
scent and began barking.
The girl went without eating for three
days, and then began on her cowhide
shoes, and she had devoured one and part
of the other when hauled up. It you never
ate your shoes you can take her word
for it that the taste Is not at all pleasant.
She says she would rather sit down to
one dish of oatmeal than to a dozen pairs
of cowhides.
Cryntal. malted and rlrrtroplated, has
hn successfully used in France to coun
terfeit gold coins.
Princess Petticoat.