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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 21, 1907)
8 the Sunday oregoniax, Portland, jtjly i, 1907. TIMSE IFlEiny BY FRANK G. CARPENTER. (HAVE Just returned from Mechia, the great ou! which lies on the edge of the Libyan desert, east of Tripoli. It faces the Mediterranean and Is an Island of green on the edge of this mighty ocean of sand. It con tains more than a million date palms, fully an many olive trees, and vast groves of oranges and lemons. The oasis is cut up by roads, much like the streets of a city. Each little farm lias walls six or eight feet high and every where are to be seen the tall frame works of the wells by which the land Is Irrigated. The motive power for raising the water is cows, -camels, donkeys and women. In many places tunnels or long Inclined ditches, be ginning at the wells and sloping down ward for several hundred feet, have been dug, and In these as tracks, the -cow, donkey, camel or woman, trots up i&nd down, dragging the ropa, run nlng over a wheel on the top of the 'framework, which raises the water. At 'the end of the rope Is a huge bag of Sskln open at both ends. This . is 'dropped Into the well, and, when It 'fills, the lower end is pulled up, thus forming a closed bottom, and the whole ;J dragged high up Into the air. The bottom Is now released, and the water 3ours out Into a trough, which carries it off Into a reservoir. - One of these buckets will hold about thirty gal lons; and, as the work goes on all Viay, the supply raised Is enormous. An Oasis Farm. J During my stay I visited some of the gardens. They are of all sizes, and are beautifully kept. One I remem ber was ,cut up by cement .conduits, 'funning along on the top of the ground, so arranged that every little tract could be Irrigated at will. Under the rich orange groves bed of beau tiful flowers were to be seen here and there; and In most places three crops were growing on the same soil. Over the whole rose date palms, with theli rugged trunks, their wide-branched fan-like leaves quivering In the breeze end their yellow fruit shining like gold under the sun. The trees below were loaded with oranges, pale yellow lem ons, flaming pome-granates and even with peaches and pears. On the ground Itself vegetables were grow ing, and I saw even alfalfa and grain of different kinds. This garden was In the charge of a Bedouin and several of his wives. The women were boil ing dates In a pot, about the size of an apple butter kettle, over a fire, out In the open. I don't know whether they were making date butter or date honey, or whether they were merely cooking dates, for sale In the markets. The women were loaded with Jewelry. I bribed one with a franc, and she let me take her photograph. The others were more bashful, and they wrapped themselves up In their shawl when ever the camera was pointed their way. The Oases of Barbary. The oases of Trlpolitana. or Barbary, as It Is often called, contain practically Its whole population. They are scat tered over a territory one-ninth as large as the United States, and they have altogether about one million peo ple. A large number of them, such as Mechia, are found along the shores of. the Mediterranean; others are further south In the desert, In a great depres sion known as the Fezzah, and In ad dition there are others In the beds of the dry rivers, where' the water sup ply comes from springs or artesian wells. There are caravan routes lead ing from Tripoli to all of these oases. and also route's crossing the deeert to the Soudan from oasis to oasis. Tripoli is, In fact, the commercial me tropolis of the eastern Sahara. It lies almost directly north of Lake Chad. nd its Toutes across "the desert are the "Shortest; although by no means the safest. The roads over tjie Sahara lead not only to Lake Chad, but also to Tuat and Timbuktu, so that Tripoli gets much of the trade of the French Sahara as well. The French decidedly object to this, and they are now making special In ducements for the caravans to land their wares at Gabes In southern Tun isia. They have policed the Sahara with their, camel soldiers and are now sending escorts with such of the car avans as pas that way. So far they have not created the requisite market at Gabes. and within the past few months the reputation of that port has been greatly Injured, because it has no merchants at hand ready to buy out a iarge caravan when it arrives. The caravans often carry goods to the value of tens of thousands of dollars, and a big capital Is required to handle their trade. The last caravan which called at Gabes had to put its wares upon the steamers there and ship them to Tripoli. In Trlpolitana. all such companies luuit have their armed escorts, and every individual I see in this part of the desert has a gun strapped to his back. I passed several caravans com ing in and going out, during a ride which I took on a camel along one of the caravan -routes a few days ago. The only roads I could see were the fresh camel tracks, but these must be obliterated by every sand storm, and. In eome places, for quite a long dis tance, there were no tracks at all. Nevertheless the Arabs and Bedouins can travel two thousand miles over such wastes, and not once lose their way. The journey to the Soudan takes many months, and the freight must be valuable to stand the cost. In the Fezzan. I have heard much about the great oasis centers from the merchants of Tripoli. They tell terrible stories of the horrors of the desert, and of the gloomy villages scattered through It. Between here and the Fezzan there is a wide plain of hot stonea upon which travelers al most roast as they hurry across. This plain, known as the Hammada, Is about as big as Kentucky, and Its altitude Is near that of the Blue Ridge Mountains in Virginia. The Fezzan, which lies on the other side of the Hammada, also covers a large territory. It is a shallow depression In the desert, spotted here and there by oases. It lies just about 800 miles north of Lake Chad, and the chief caravan routes to Kuka and Bornu pass through It. The trans-Sahara trade of the past has largely consisted of slaves, and the laves are carried from the Soudan by that route through the Fezzan to Tripoli today. From here they are smuggled to Tunisia. Algeria and Turkey, finding a ready market in the harems of those cities. They are often taken on the steamers, as the nominal wives ofhelr masters. No Mohammedan will tolerate any inquiry into his family arrangements, and such a statement prevents Investiga tion. Not long ago the number of slaves carried across the desert through the Fezzan amounted to as many as 10,000 per annum, and it is said that the route from there to Lake Chad can even now be 'followed by the bleaching bones of the human beings who have died on the way. The capital of the Fezzan la Mur xuk. a, gloomy city containing about 7000 people. It depends almost entirely on the caravan trade. Anothjer Important caravan center la Life the oasis of Ghat, which lies in the bed of a dry river, and a third Is Ghadames, In another dry river some distance away. Ghat Is famous for Its great fair, which Is held once a year, bringing together traders from all parts of the Sahara. In ordinary times the town has only about 4000 population, and the fair has" to be held on a great plain outside. The city is surrounded by walls and entered only by gates. Its streets are dark passages, with bouses built over them, so that go ing through It is like traveling through the tunnels of a mine. . Gha-dam-es I hesitate to write the word. It .sounds so much like swearing Is another oaals center of about the same chaYacter as Ghat. It has been a trading place since the days of the Romans, aud the caravans of the Fezzan. Tuat, Tim buktu and Lake Chad all pass through It. Ghadames is twice as big as Ghat. It Is surrounded by a wall thfee miles in length, but the people live In only one corner of the lnclosure. The houses are box-shaped and are so laid out that the women can walk from one to another on the roofs, which are reserved for their use. Captured by tlie Americans. Some of the most Interesting parts or this region are along the Mediterranean Sea. Here in Tripoli we have 60,000 peo ple. Farther eastward. In Barka. is the town of Benghazi, which was a thriving city in the days of the Phoenicians and Romans, and. still further east is Derna, the only place on the African continent ever occupied by Americans. It was cap tured by our fleet in 1818. and the ruins of a battery which was then erected on the heights are still to be seen. I am told there are other tracts along the Mediter ranean coast whlfh might be cultivated, if properly handled, and that the ruina of many Roman settlements still exist there. It Is through that region that th Khedive expects to build his railroad from Alexandria to Tripoli. Products of the Sahara. The products of the desert are much larger than are generally supposed. The caravans which are now coming here bring quantities of ostrich feathers and also cotton, dates, tobacco and grain, as well as the ivory and gold dust of the Soudan. The output of the oases them selves is greater than that of any similar area on earth. As I have already said, Croker's Castle RICHARD CROKBR displayed a dis tinct appreciation of the beautiful when he pitched his Tudor castle on the slope of the hills that encircle Dublin Bay. . Mr. Croker is a man who wants to get things done promptly, and always goes right ahead. I wanted to linger over some of the beautiful things he had brought to his beautiful house, but as we passed through the rooms he was always most unconscionably marching on. Indeed, proud as he Is of his fine mansion, and of all the valuable things that are In Its many rooms. Mr. Croker is far prouder of his stud. That was what he wanted me to see all the, time. But before we came to the stables I was able to get a good general Impres sion of Glencalrn itself, says the New York World. The entrance gate, in solid cut granite, seems rather strange to an Irish eye, and looks like the gablo of a house In an old Belgian town like Bruges. The lawns and flower beds are laid out with great taste, and today are a perfect riot of green and colors. There are few buildings in Ireland like Glencairne. Most of the great residential houses in this country were erected in the eighteenth century, when domestic architecture was conceived in somewhat commonplace vein. Glencairne . Is not unique, but Is certainly exceptional in Ireland. It Is a noble pile, crowned with an Irish tower In the center and a beau tifully ohaste Italian portico running from the hall door on the west, round the building to the south, and so to the gardens. The house Is built of cut gran ite, and part of the wall of the original building, once the residence of a well known Irish Judge, Is incorporated in It. The Japanese room Is Indeed a gem. There are no corners In it as In an ordV nary room. The "corners" are .all cir cular, and they are covered with charm ing and quaint Japanese tapestry. The celling Is Japanese, with a perfect avi ary of Japanese birds painted with ex cellent taste, full of life and movement. At the other side of the hall Is Mr. Croker's own study. Here on the wall Is an address from the Democratic Club of New Pork, of which the ex-leader Is obviously proud. Here, too, are some books, nfany of them relating to Ameri Farming-Business in the Oases of Tripolitana, as Seen by Frank G. vyjz Sahara afs OUZ SZ4ZS: " these desert islands comprise altogether . kind of grain. Outside of them there are a tract about twice as big as the State of I vast tracts which are used for the graz Vlrginia. and they produce almost every ing of millions of camels, sheep and on the Shore of can affairs, one by his friend, W. J. Bryan.. And here, aboe all, are two large pho tographs of Mr. Croker's two dead sons. He shows the pictures to you without any apparent emotion, because he Is a man who has mastered emotion. Pres ently, as you go through the house, you wlll( see, off the large and handsome cor ridor upstairs, a very beautiful little ora tory, the stained glass windows of which he has erected to the memory of these two boys. Tho grand hall, however, to whloh wa retired from the study is the principal feature of the house. It Is a large apartment in dark mahogany, with an elaborately carved and massive old Irish mantelpiece. Around are tables and writ ing materials, chairs, etc., as in a sit ting room, and on the walls are por traits in oils of Mr. Croker's favorite horses and photographs of some of their famous relatives. All the chief rooms of the house radiate off this central hall, Including the two I have already named, and the dining room and drawing room. In fact, standing in the grand hall you feel that you are In touch with the whole house, for the main staircase rises out of the hall also and so brings you at once to the upper part of the mansion. But before going upstairs note the stained glass celling illustrating the king of birds and the little waen soaring to ward the sun on the back of an eagle. Mr. Croker is especially fond of. this de sign, for the eagle Is the one dear to Americans. This stained glass celling can be seen by night as well as by day, as the electric lights shine through when dark ness falls. And, by the "way, I noted as I entered the grounds that Glencairne makes its own illumlnant, as the steady thump-thump of the engine-house Indi cated. -' The staircase is a noble one, six feet wide, also in carved dark mahogany. At the top there is a stained glass window, with the arms of the various branches of the Croker family given in Burke. On the left o the staircase, as you go up, there is a fine piece of tapestry, showing Glencairne Itself, with gaily dressed women on the lawn. Setting aside the oratory and the fine corridor, there is nothing upstairs that Mr. Croker seems to be anxious to show ; you, except an old fashioned bed in one MBS ; and Social Carpenter Doublin Bay of the rooms, which once," it appears, be longed to Daniel 0"Connell. After this substantial piece of domestic comfort, the thing that seemed to excite Mr. Croker's Interest most was an old and quaint engraving of a meeting of the'puglllsts. Heenan and Sayere, hanging among other thugs of the kind. In a pas sage leading to the billiard-room. I mentioned the billiard-room. Like the large strong room, with . the Croker archives. It Is oft Mr. Croker's study, and Is a noble apartment, containing two tables especially made for Mr. Croker 1n the United States. This room can be entered not only from Mr. Croker's own room, but also from the hall and again from the grounds; and, Anally, there Is communication with the kitchen, to facili tate the attendance of servants. The walls are oak paneled, and decorated with oil paintings In chocolate tints, of many of the chief streets and buildings of New York, Including Wall street, Tammany Hall, the Postofflce. the City Hall, Cen tral Park, Fifty-ninth street. Fifth ave nuo and the Democratic Club. The bedrooms are in the Adam style. The bathrooms, etc., are sumptuously fit ted and have beautiful, tiled walls and floors, and all -the bedrooms have their own supply of hot and cold water. The drawing-room and dining-room were the two last apartments to whloh Mr. Croker conducted me. The most striking adornment of the drawing room is a gigantic tiger rug with the head raised, the jaws open and the ter rifying; teeth fully displayed. The pan eling; is in bird's-eye maple, and here again the elaborate decorating of the ceiling is In the refined and delicate Adam style. The dining-room is the most spacious room at Glencairne. The walls, like those of the ball, are mahogany pan eled, the paneling being filled in with tapestry. The celling is also in mahog any, elaborately carved and molded. There is a beautiful sideboard in the same material, designed by the archi tect to harmonize with Us surround ings. The thing In this room, however, which Mr. Croker shows you with most Interest is a quaint and Oriental look ing bow, which he tells you with much satisfaction once belonged, like the old bed upstairs, to Daniel O'Connell. And so to the stables, which, as I 1 have already, hinted, are the great 1 "v. ovwjji):'-. i i. .... . . ; ,4 aAM&L goats, as well as horses and cattle. And of late years a new crop has been found which Is bringing fortunes Into the Sahara. This last Is aifa grass. It grows wild along the edges of the desert and upon the plateaus where there is only a slight rainfall. A few years ago this crop went to waste, but now the Arabs are gather ing it and it is brought in from every where by car and caravan. I' saw it stacked up along the railroad In the deserts of Algeria and Tunisia; the trains were loaded with It, and there were mountains of it on the wharves of every port I visited. Here In Tripoli the alfa grass Is brought In upon camels. It is picked by the Bedouins. Arabs and Berbers, every blade of it being pulled from the ground. It is packed In bags about four'feet wide and eight feet In length. Two of these bags are slung over the hump of a camel, and are thus carried for miles over the desert. When the grass arrives at Tripoli It Is weighed upon steelyards and paid for at about J10 a ton. It 13 then baled up like hay and shipped on the steamers to England, where It is used for making the best of book and writing papers. Some of the great newspaper companies of England have put up factories in Alge ria for the handling of alfa grass: and.it Is said that Its value was originally dis covered by the Lloyds of Lloyd's Register. It makes a much better paper than wood pulp; but It Is more costly, and there Is no possibility that It will displace the latter. A large part of the caravan business at the ports Is handled by Greeks and Ital ians. The alfa grass Is bought by Ital ians, who act for the English, shipping this stuff to Liverpool and London, and bringing back hardware and Manchester' cottons. The date exports also are In the hands of Italians; although the bringing of the dates here Is largely through na tive tribes, who make a specialty of mer chandising. ' Have you ever heard of the Mozabites? They are sometimes called the Jews of the Sahara. The Arabs say that while It takes five of their people to beat a Jew at a bargain, it requires at least five Jews to get the better of one Mozablte. Indeed, many believe that the Mozabites are of Jewish origin. They are the de scendants of the old Carthaginians, who were driven down Into the desert and settled there. Carthage was founded by Jews, and It was ruled by Queen Dido the Jewess. At any rate, the Mozabites are superior to the Jews In their trading ability, and; they have monopolized certain kinds of trade In the desert. source of Interest at Glencairne to Mr. Croker himself. He tells you as you look around the stables that he has 20 racers, but his chief Interest at pres ent is In Orby. "After S1, Mr. Croker." I ventured to say, "after a strenuous political and public life, this is a pleasanter place than New York in which to spend the evening of one's days." He replied very quietly and without the least trace of a smile: "It is Quieter." All this time, whether inside the house or outside It. Mr. Croker puffed away at his big pipe, as contented as one could desire to see. Bor dads 915,000 and Gets 200. Copenhagen, Denmark, Cables Dispatch in New York Sun. A messenger boy found a bag con taining jewelry and American notes to the value of $15,000 In the ' principal square. Cards in the bag bore the name of George Hamfeldt and gave his residence as the United States, found Hamfeldt, and received a reward of 200. The Summer Argument. Detroit Fr Press. A problem of wedlock. That never Is settled. , That makes fatbar mad. And that gets mother nettled; It comes up each year At the Summer resort; Who'll clean the fish That father has caught? Mother says that ?he won't. Father fays that she should; It Is clearly her task. And Is so understood. "If I catch tho fish. And I head 'am and tall 'em. It's really your duty To dig In and scale 'em." To this mother says. In a positive way: When I clean your fish, , It will be a cold day. You havs all the fun. When you angle and book 'em. I'm doing- enough, If I'm willing to cook 'em." 'You're wrong." declares father, "Yon swore to obey: It was one of your vows On our glad wsddlng day. True." resiles mother. "I'll bow to your wish.' When the minister says That I swore to clean fish." Oh. endless the worry. And ceaseless the row; The Summer 1s here. ' They are arguing now. They want to decide. And the prdblem Is great; BhouM Ma clsn the fish, IX Pa digs the baltr t 1 i i M mm. V; its 7 ' SI :. 7 :.v4? .i-.-X-' v- MV;?t They have seven cities, tar down below Algiers In the middle of the Sahara, at Just where the caravan tracks cross. They are engaged In commerce there, and also In Algiers. In Tunis and in nearly every trading center of North Africa. These men stay away from home only for two years at a time. Their laws require that they come back every so often, and their wives can claim a divorce If they remain longer. If a man absents himself more than two years, his wife has not only the right to marry agatn. but she can take possession of all the property belonging to the family and keep It. I am told that the Mozablte women are true to their husbands. They wear black while their husbands are absent, and make great feasts when they come home. Among the viands served, on such oc casions are barbacued camels and sheep. At the same time a dinner Is given to the poor, and this, strange to say, takes place at the cemetery. Here the wife plays the Lady Bountiful, sitting on the tomb of her parents, while she hands out the soup and dispenses her alms. I have seen many of the Mozabites dur ing my travels. They are short, stout and light complexloned", with features Jewish in cast. They are noted for their stinginess. Most of them sleep in their shops, where they sometimes do their own cooking, saving every cent to take home. Love and Marriage in the Sahara. All the women of the Sahara marry young. A girl Is often betrothed at 8 or 9; she Is married at 12 or 13, and Is an old woman at 30. At 10 she begins to primp and look at the men, and something is supposed to be wrong with her If she is not married at 17 or 18. As to the age of the husband, that matters not. He may be 16 or 60, and he may have several wives. The marriage is usually arranged by a female matchmaker, employed by the groom, who Is supposed to find out all the details as to the" character and wealth of the bride. She goes with her to the bath and investigates her beauty; she makes such Inquiries at home about her cooking and house keeping ability as enables her to fur nish a full description. The groom Is supposed to pay a certain sum for the bride, and she is expected to bring "nlm a small fortune in jewelry and house hold effects. Preparatory to the wedding the bride is put through a course of train ing. She Is bathed and greased again and again, and her akin Is coated with powder. On the wedding uay she Is Stingless Bees ONE of the most fascinating experi ments ever attempted In apiculture, According to Discovery, was begun last Summer at the American Museum of Natural History, New York City, and has ended, as was expected. In failure through the death of the insects. The subjects of the experiment were a colony of brown Btlngless bees probably the first ever seen In this city, if not in these latitudes. They were brought from the interior of Venezuela by W. K. Morrison. In the Insect gallery visitors could see them busily at work In a glass-covered box, In which they had built the queerest nest Imaginable. Rising to a peak, it resem bled nothing so much as an irregular, jagged mountain, of a very dark choco late color. The box was placed at a sunny win dow. In the lower frame of which small apertures connecting with the box af forded egreSB and ingress to and from the outside world. The little foreigners when Installed Immediately set about making themselves familiar with the city and its parks and the surrounding country. . Hard by, at another window, was a colony of our familiar American honey bees, stingers these. Tbe visitors were brought to the United States with the idea that they might be crossed with the honey bees and a new stingless spe cies thus produced combining this ad vantage with the superior qualities of the native insect. The species were so remotely related and the habits of the stingless variety so highly specialized however, that tho scientists at the museum considered hy bridization to be an impossibility. The honey of the stingless bee, al though much appreciated In Cuba and South America, where It is supposed to possess valuable medicinal properties and is an article of food, is very inferi or both in quality and quantity to that of the honey bee. As pollen gatherers, however, they are vastly superior to the latter, being able to carry much heavier loads and to work longer and In weather when the honey bee would not venture out. In this capacity they would have been important allies of the agriculturist in the cross-pollination of flowers and In Increasing the fruit supply. Through the hong warm days of Sum I 4 ;V;f wrapped up In so many veils that sin looks more like a bundle than a woman, and in this shape she Is car ried on a camel or donkey to the home of the groom. The first home of the desert bride is with her husband's family; but only when she Is the first wife. If be has other wives she goes to the common tent, and there takes her place as boss of the establishment. She holds this position for a year or so. but after that comes-down to everyday life and does her share of the work. She. aids in the rooking, in gathering fuel and in weaving the cloth for tents and the family clothing. Have you ever- heard of the Ouled Nails? Tiey are to he found In every oasis, and there is a whole street given up to them In Biskra, the so-called Paris of the Sahara.- They are noted for their beauty and are professional entertainers, much like the Nautch girls of India, the Ghawazt of Egypt or the Geishas of Japan. Robert HIchens rather effusively describes them In "The Garden of Allah," making- them more beautiful than I havs found them either In Biskra or here. The Ouled I.alls sing and dance fo money in the Moorish cafes. Any one who will pay for a cup of coffee ca see them, and 'scores of these dark faced, turbaned. long-bearded Arab will sit and watch them for hours. Th girls are paid by the owners of the es tablishments, but they also collect contributions from the foreigners pres ent, coming to them and kneeling down at the close of each dance. Thereupon the foreigner wets a sliver coin with his lips and presses It upon the fore head of the dancer. The coin stick and the girl rises and goes through tha wild abandon of another dance, mov. Ing her head so gently that the coin re mains where It wag placed. The dance of the Ouled Nails is tha well-known stomach dance, in vogue throughout the'Orlent. It consists of a series of contortions of the hips and abdomen, while the rest of the body remains stationary or perhaps twiyi back and forth. The girla are fully dressed; there is no exposure of per son, and they lack the ballet tights of our wicked stage. Nevertheless, their actions are more demoralizing than those of the worst of our dance halls. Their profession Is considered respect able, and after a time they take tha money they hav thus made and go home to marry their lovers. Tripoli, June 10. . Are a Failure mer and while the woods took on their Autumn tints the stingless bees, which when they arrived numbered about 300. thrived and multiplied amazingly; but the chill, drying winds of the late Fall brought disaster to the busy Inhabitants of the hive. ' They did not seem to mind the cold so much. Indeed their resistance to it was a matter of astonishment to the experts. What they could not bear up under was the dryness which comes with the approach of Winter. The hive box was taken from the window into the warmth of the steam-heated museum and honey in abundance was given to. the workers, who at once began storing It in their pots. But indoors the air. If comfortable from the point of view of temperature, possessed, like that outside, the fatal quality of being-too dry, and though fighting bravely against this un accustomed and impossible condition the bees one by one died off, until now son remain. Memory From Other Days. Nineteenth Century. As I walk along a dark lonely road, my ears are on the alert, I glance to right and left, I look over my shoulder. Where did I learn this habit? May it not be the memory disk giving off its record? My savage ancestor learned by long years of experience to "be specially on his guard In a lonely place, and in the dark. When my Indignation Is thor oughly roused, I find my hands clench, there Is a tightening of '. the lips, the teeth are more plainly visible, and tha whole attitude Is suggestive of making a spring. Here Is a trait of early man. who gathered himself together and sprang upon his enemy to rend him with tooth and claw. I have often noticed that when people use the word "offen sive" it Is accompanied by a quiver of the nostrils and an involuntary move ment of the nose. The Imagination Is still haunted by that piece of very offen sive carrion which my primitive ances tor with a prejudice for raw meat found, too strong for him, so strong that his nose rejected It at once. The pearl fishery, of Ceylon, leased hr the British government. Involved an expen diture of only $7S..M0 last year, with a net profit of 801.882. 7 i i '