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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 21, 1907)
6 THE SUNDAY OREGONIAX,. PORTLAND, APRIL 21, 1907. GOWNS FOR THE SWEET GIRL GRADUATE BEAUTY HINTS FOR THE BABIES MANY an easy-going mother has Uvea to dread the oft-repeated question from her child: "Why Aid you let me do It?" Thla Is particularly true in the matter of personal disfigure ment. A. trifling habit, easily broken in mere babvhood. is indulged until some feature of an otherwise pleasant face is dlv contorted. It is so much easier lo let babv-boy suck his thumb- and stare t the ceiling in silent contentment than to fight the habit with a thumb cot vet only the other day I met a boy who never, never smiled while I was at his house. When I had gained his confid ence. I learned that by sucking his thumb as a babv. ho bad spoiled the shape of his mouth. Now. whenever he smiles, the upper lip Is lifted hideously, display ing not only his upper teeth but promi nent upper gums as well. As soon as this boy has earned the money, he says he Is going to an, eminent surgeon to have that Up operated upon. That Is why ha is afraid to smile. A lime gin wno permitted to suck her thumb until she was old enough to go to school, now has two prominent upper teeth that stick out llkn tusks. Many mothers who sit up night to make baby clothing fine enough for a rich man's child, are too busy to see that the same baby gets a fair start toward per sonal attractiveness, if not beauty. If your baby has prominent ears, make some little night caps that will fit down snugly over the offending members and never let bim sleep without a cap. The curs should not be strapped close to the head, but they should be held In posi tion during the sleeping hours so that they are not pushed further from the head. If his noee la broad and shapeless, mas sage it gently, always working It out be tween thumb and forefinger to a point. Think how often you alt reading with baby lying content upon your knee. 3ust suppose that if, with the book In one hand, you massaged his misshapen little nose with the other for ten fir 16 minutes, morning and afternoon, how much you could do toward Improving; Its shape! If It has a tendency to turn up in a pug, massage It gently but firmly with a down ward stroke toward the lips. If the eyebrows are scant, begin train ing them before baby in a month old. Rub them gently each nfght with vase line: and. after the bath each morning, brush them into a good arch with a tiny soft brush which you can buy for this purpose at any drug store. If the laahes are thin. ak your family doctor to cut them at least twice before baby Is three montha old. Thla encourages the growth. I knew a young mother whose principal facial defect had always been colorless, thin lashes and brows. Her husband's face also lacked character along these lines. When her babies 'came, she used the treatment outlined above: and, though both children had light hair like their parents, their appearance was' greatly helped by long lashes and well-formed brows, quite a little darker than the hair. Children object so strenuously . to shampooing that easy-going mothers are apt to neglect this important fea ture of the care of the hair. As a re sult, dandruff assails the scalp when it should be clean and sweet. The little head should be washed at least once a week with an egg shampoo, so long as the child Is in the dirt-scattering- age. and later, when more tidy, the head should be shampooed at least once a fortnight, . with a raw egg beaten up In warm, not hot, water. Unless the hair is extremely oily, the scalp may be massaged once a week with pure olive oil. This Is a dandruff preventive which is absolutely safe. An excellent tonic for a child's scalp. If dandruff or itching is present. Is this: Sulphato of quinine, 1 drachm: rose- Hints for the Spring Cleaning WHEN Spring sunlight and air rush Into the house with the ardor of housecleanlng days, spots and stains galore come to notice. Marks, soft ened by the hangings and " shaded lights of Winter, stand out conspicu ously when curtains come down and uncompromising daylight enters. Here are some excellent suggestions for re moving unsightly spots and stains and giving the furnishings a clean, Spring like look: If a quantity of silver is to be cleaned, try this method: Mix sweet oil and whiting to a smooth, creamy paste. Apply with a flannel cloth. Al low It to stand pntil dry. Polish first with cotton flannel, then wltt chamois. This method will not eat or injure the silver plating. For a finger-marked piano or other highly polished piece of furniture, try cold water and chamois skin. Have two skins, both very soft and pliable; dip one In cold water, wring It very dry and wipe off the polished surface: then polish with the dry skin. Never apply coal oil or any patented polish whose Ingredients you do not know to your piano. One woman who used coal oil on cleaning days soon found that the entire surface of her piano was marred by tiny cracks. Leather picture frames, portfolios, etc., can be cleaned with benzine. Ap ply with a soft cloth, and if the ben zine removes the polish, apply the well beaten white o( an egg. For removing spots from wallpaper and window shades, fill small cheese cloth bags with cornmeal and rub the soiled surface as you would with a plain cloth. Sometimes a large grease water. 8 ounces: rectified spirits, 2 ounces: dilute sulphuric acid, 15 drops. Mix: then add: glycerine, ounce; es- - i .. x o r u t n till so lution is complete, and, after standing 24 hours, strain prr. A child's nails should receive reg- . . 1 .,Annn I na mnnn an lie rati be trusted with an orange stick he should be taught to care ror nis own nails. The child who has never known tV..,t 4 mac o nmA tn tahla ftf fiTO tO bed with dirty finger nails will not nave to be broken or tnis airiy naou In later years. If the skin Is kept back with an orange stick, the little white crescent will always show In his finger nail and be will never suffer from hangnails, which often torture small hands. If the fingers are flat and shapeless, they must be massaged twice a day from the very day of baby's mrtn. stain on the wall, for instance, above a couch where members of the family have rested their heads, can best be removed by the use of blotting paper and a hot iron. The heat draws the grease through the blotting paper. To remove grease stains from floors, mix a quarter pound each of Fuller's earth and pearl ash with a quart of boiling water. Soak the floor with this for 24 hours and scrub with sand. . Clean soiled photographs with bread crusts, rubbing the surface lightly, or with Fuller's - earth, using the latter dry. The burners of lamps should be boiled in water containing vinegar and ammonia. When new wicks are to be inserted, allow 24 hours for soaking them in vinegar, and then dry them thoroughly before using. This will pre vent the unpleasant odor peculiar to a new wick. Home. Outer Book. In the evening, after the rain. At home with the north and the trees, I turn from the world again. And find me a world In these. The glories of continents seen. And all that my ears have) heard Are lost In a garden's green And the chirp of a nested bird. IF PERPLEXED IN MATTERS OF DRESS, beauty, or etiquette, write to Mlas Dean. Miss Morton or Miss Standish, eacloeln a self-addressed and stamped envelope for reply. This l quicker method than hav ing? your Queatlon answered In the columns of the paper. Bealdeo, yon receive n personal. Intimate answer. Be careful to address your return envelope accurately. Letter, come hack- to us every day, stamped "lneuffl cleot addrcsa or Mparty cannot he found. X thousands of family circles, the coun- j try over. Commencement Day now looms up Importantly. Next to a wedding in the family, there Is no event more intensely Interesting to the women of the household at least. The college girl's .Commencement Day now involves the selection of a small trousseau, so numerous " are the incidental functions. Every high school has Its social events In addition to the graduation exercises prop er, and even the grade schools "graduate" highest class pupils with more or less ceremony. In fact the large number of girls who go direct from the grade schools to business college, make the grade school commencement quite an event In public school circles. And all these conditions mean more work for the home dressmaker and more loosening of the parental purse. The high school graduate, like her col lege sister, feels the need of at least three new frocks, a pretty Spring suit for wear to church, when the baccalaureate sermon Is preached,- a delicately tinted evening frock for the class reception and whatever prlvate'functions may be given during the week, and, last but most im portant, the graduation dress Itself. In every class, there are two or more girls who InslBt upon wearing colored frocks at the graduation exercises, thereby annoying their more conventional class mates and destroying the alignment on the stage. And so, despite pleading let ters to the contrary, a rule' for all-white in the graduation dress must be laid down. Furthermore the girl who Imagines that white Is not becoming should wake up to the realization that this Is an error. White is becoming so every girl ff properly de veloped In a well-chosen fabric. The girl who looks homely in a stiff linen will be fairly tranformed by chiffon and lace or even a soft, pliable net softened by supple ribbons. On the other hand the selection of a tint makes the unattractive girl all the more conspicuous. Therefore let us start with white and end with white, so far as the graduation frock is .concerned, leaving the dainty pink,, blue or la-sender mull for which the girlish heart yearns to be used in the gown worn at the reception given the graduation class by the Juniors. The white material to be chosen then be comes merely a question of the amount to be spent. . While chiffons, gauzes and silks are offered In graduation gowns. some of the daintiest models come in wash fabrics, batiste, .mull, fine lawn, nainsook. all-over embroidery In inexpensive pat terns, cross bar dimities, etc. "Voiles are also among the most popular fabrics this season varying from a silk and wool, to an all-silk veiling, while the better grades of cotton voiles which are double width and cost from a dollar a yard up will also work into very effective models. One of the prettiest materials for these frocks is organdie trimmed with fine lace, but It must be classed with silks and chiffons, because it does not show to ad vantage unless made on a silk foundation The voile frocks as a rule show Jumper designs, trimmed with many little pleat tngs or frills of soft silk or ribbon, over guimpes of lace, which may vary in weight from the finest of French Val. to Irish crochet, though a good medium weight with voile Is baby Irish which can be bought In excellent quality as low as 14 a yard In all-over, with matching inser tion, and galloons as low as 65 cents a yard. Guimpes for these voile frocks are also made from net. Inset with heavy lace medallions, edged with frills of ribbon, net or Val. lace. In fact. It Is mostly on the guimpes and upper part of the Jumpers that the elaboration occurs. Skirts as a rule are rather full and plain, with per haps deep tucks or bias folds for trim ming above the hem. Insertion is used on wash dresses, while on the more dressy chiffons, nets and gauzes, conventional patterns are outlined around the bottom of the skirt with ribbon or fine double ruchlngs. One lovely model in chiffon cloth over silk was made Empire style with a Greek border in white liberty taf feta ribbon seven inches deep around the hem. The short, waist was made very full with shirring, best described as "baby fashion and worn over a guimpe of fine German Val. lace. The junction of the round yoke with the waist proper was out lined with white ribbon twisted like a cord over a double ruching of Val. edging, and here and there were tacked palest pink rose buds made of liberty silk, so delicate in coloring that at a distance the color did not show. The full, elbow sleeves were finished with lace and the same twist ed ribbon and rose effect and the high girdle, coming up like an inverted V. in the back, was of white liberty taf feta. The prettiest of wash frocks show modified princess designs, and for very slender girls they are all shirred, not tucked, snugly at the waist. On the mull frocks some particularly pretty fichu designs are shown. For example, a very simple two-piece frock of mull showed Inch-wide German Val. lace in set Into the skirt Just above the hem in a Wall of Troy or old Greek key pat tern. The waist was cut square at the neck to admit a guimpe of tucks, inset with interlacing squares of the Val. In sertion. The puffed sleeves were fin ished with deep flounces at the elbow, above whose hems a smaller Greek pat tern of narrower insertion was Inset. The girdle of mull was shirred snugly over a fitted lining and starting at a point about an inch and a half from the center of this girdle was the fichu, made of strips of tucked mull. and in sertion, with matching edging on both sides. This fichu was broader over the shoulders than below, giving the effect of rather' broad, yet soft revers. In the back it almost met, being fastened to the girdle in back and front with rosettes of lace edging and tiny loops of baby ribbon. The ends of the fichu hung down in the back like a sash. For a thin girl, this dress could be made fuller and more becoming by finishing the plain space between the fichu in the front with flounce upon flounce of the mull edged with lace, or flounces of two-Inch lace. For a thin girl the puffed sleeves should also kbe made with flounces Instead of. plain. A very pretty model is here shown In mercerized batiste with Insertion and frills of German Val. lace. - The chem isette is of baby Irish. The pattern can also be developed In chiffon or net over silk, in voile or in smooth pongee or China silk. The waist Is made In one piece and can be arranged over the fitted lining or left unllned and a chemisette Joined to it Is as material renders desirable. It is shirred at its lower edge while the pkirt is shirred at the upper and the two are joined to give the princess effect. For a girl of moderate size will be required, for the waist 3 yards of material 37 Inches or 24 yards 44 THE VOGUE OF THE NET BLOUSE UNQUESTIONABLY uie summer girt of 1907 Is pinning her faith on the net blouse. "Peter Pans" have al most run their course, embroidered linen Is chic but & little passe, silk, set off by lace medallions, -suggests factory work, but the hand-made net -waist, to quote an enthusiast. Is "the real thing." All the enegry which the up-to-date girl spent last Fall . on embroidered bands, collars, cuffs, etc., or panels, and last Summer on embroidered robes and waists, she is expending this season on her net blouses, and the more odd the combina tion of nets and laces and embroidery and tiny buttons and bits of ribbon. which she can work out artistically, the more smart will her handiwork seem to her less deft neighbor. Net. blouses can be bought, factory made, irom $4.50 up, but no matter how high the price of the waist soars, f ma chine stitcbery and conventional design betray that it Is one waist of many in similar style, Its owner feels that some thing is lacking, something which can be supplied only by handwork and ex clusive design. Nets are fascinating In their pattern and weave. From simple point d'esprit at 40 cents a yard to cobweb meshes almost as delicate as" real lace, at $5 or more per yard, there is opportunity for every taste to be satisfied. Nearly all the simpler patterns come in white, cream, deep ecru and black, with a fair sprinkling of delicate colors like pink, blue and lavender. Most of the high priced, ready-made waists and all hand or made-to-order blouses show a lining of silk, generally white under either white, cream or ecru net, and even under black, and this silk in turn is voiled in chiffon before the net is draped over the form. The dot or ring Is the commonest of all patterns. A long, narrow . dash, some thing like a tiny lozenge . or caraway candy, is newer and more effective than the dot or ring. Tiny figures like con ventional flowers. . fleur de lis, interlacing squares or circles, etc., are powdered over both fine and coarse net meshes and show up to best advantage over silk, veiled by chiffon. In the more ornate patterns very little of the real net mesh shows, the figure being worked out with a silk thread that suggests Chantllly lace. Grenadine striped effects are reproduced in these nets, and one of the prettiest designs shows an alternate stripe of finely dotted net with a more solid stripe of silk thread, carrying out the old Greek pattern or Wall of Troy. All the new seats are veryN wide, some of them nearly two yards, and if a waist is to be grently elaborated .with lace and ribbon trimming, a yard and a half or two yards at the most will make the waist and leave some sizeable pieces over to make up later in vests, yokes, stocks, etc., for silk or allover lace waists Every scrap of trimming, lace or net should be saved religiously this season, for the smartest waists look like mere culllngs from piece bags, so varied are the open-mesh fabrics which make up its artistic whole. Ribbon, when applied to net waists as trimming, is of the softest weaves, like liberty taffeta or louisine, and is twisted into very Frenchy devices. For instance, an inch-wide ribbon is caught down at close intervals with fine stitchery until it becomes a succession of shell-shaped convolutions. Again it is caught down on either side at intervals until it looks like a succession of llliputian calla lilies. It is applied under lace insets as flat pleating and It appears as rosettes. The most Important phase of making up a net waist is to combine with the net some material so heavy as to afford a contrast. For Instance, If your net shows a fine weave and a Chantllly silk thread In its small pattern, select coarse filet or Irish lace or even medallions used as insets. Never use a Chantllly lace with Chantllly net, nor French Val. with point d'esprit. Cluny Is good on either of the nets described, but even then a heavier lace Is often introduced as me dallions with the Cluny or a transparent yoke of finest Val. or Chantllly will be outlined by the Cluny. Sometimes the coarse or fine lace cm ployed by contrast appears only in small medallions or ruchlngs, but this contrast must exist. Also cream or ecru nets are Inset with pure white laces, while the clear white net Is often set off by trim mings of deeper net and lace. Ruchlngs of the plain net are used to outline medallions of lace or embroidery, and odd little Jabot, fichu and soft tie effects in liberty silk or similar weaves, and in most delicate colorings like baby blue, pale lavender, apricot pink, coral pink. finish . the ecru waists most beautifully. Sometimes these soft silk ties are woven In and out of a wide lace pattern very much as wash ribbon Is worked through beading on lingerie. Tiny enameled or Jeweled buttons finish some waists. They are set on the yoke or vest and cufTs in two rows at a distance of an Inch or more apart and then laced with black velvet ribbon in baby width, or, if a color Is preferred, some very delicate, harmoni ous tint is employed. In the Illustration, A shows a very simple but efTective waist of striped net with 3'oke of German Val. lace, with epaulets of Irish crochet. Just across the bust line the net is laid In five cross wise tucks to give fulness to a slender figure. Figure B is a trifle more elaborate. The foundation is a deep ecru net, show ing circles Inside a cross-bar pattern. The yoke is finished with three saucy bows of golden brown velvet ribbon, below which is a full vest. Inset with pointed straps of German Val. lace to give long lines. A broad suspender effect Is added ovr the shoulder and down both back and front. This Is a shaped piece made of silk Interlined with rather soft canvas, covered with tucked net and outlined on either side by galloons of imitation Irish Inches wide with H yard of all-over lace for the chemisette, 1 yard of in sertion and 3 yards of lace edging; for the skirt yards 27 Inches or Z yards 44 inches wide with 16 yards of inser tion. Some of the models in voile will prove most useful for wear other than Commencement Day, and this Is partic ularly true of the gowns softly ahlrred In princess or jumper effects, with strappings of . silk . or embroidered pieces, and- yokes or guimpes of lace. The voile gown for general use should not be made in a pleated design, but should be soft, clinging and straight in Its lines. White satin shoes plain, beaded, with buckles, or rosettes of lace are used with silk, chiffon or gauze frocks, but kid. either glace or suede, plain or MET- via lace In pure white. The tucking and Irish lace also finish the sleeves. Figure C shows a combination of dotted net with point de Venlse. Rosettes of pale blue satin ribbon are tacked where the point de Venlse insertion is used to simulate a bolero. . In figure D there is shown a combina tion of very coarse ecru net with a deep square bertha effect of very fine yal lace in pure white, alterating with tucked net. Figure E represents a plain net made very effective with small medallions of Cluny, outlined by fine Val. and finished 'across the front with straps of white velvet ribbon. It will be noticed that in nearly all these models square lines prevail. The square yoke, jumper and guimpe effects are gaining over the curved, and par ticularly the oval lines so popular last Winter. Also there is a decided move ment in the direction of high necks and the newest collars curve down in the front for the comfort of the chin, but creep up very high behind the ears and at tile nape of the neck. Girdles to be worn with these net waists are often the simplest of crushed belts made from the material Itself of soft liberty taffeta silk or ribbon. Chains of coral, topaz, turquois and other delicately colored semi-precious stones are worn over these blouses and give Just the right dash of color. In buying lace, particularly medallions for trimming a net waist, remember that a small medallion in a good quality of lace, affording the necessary contrast in tint and weight, is more desirable than quantities of cheap trimming. And if you have plenty of net at your command, make fine ruchlngs or pleatings or double ruchlngs of this to edge your good lace medallions and to outline the vest and cuffs, rather than a cheap grade of VaL beaded, can be worn with wash fabrics. The popular canvas shoe, however light In weight. Is not sufficiently dressy for Commencement Day. Silk stockings add greatly to the general effect, for even the finest of white lisle look "cottony" beneath a dainty frock. Glace kid gloves are the preferred hand-covering, though the girl who perspires excessively under nervous strain, making kid gloves unsightly, must take refuge In long silk gloves. Lace mitts are not used this year at all.- All ribbons used for trimming graduation gowns, for the hair or for girdles are of the softeat weavea. lib erty taffetas leading. White velvet ribbon Is used on some of the silk and chiffon cloth gowns.' but soft silk ll more effective for Summer wear. MART DEAN. or Chantilly. These fine ruchlngs of nel are very effective and one of the fads of the moment. Moreover, if you have a bit of softly tinted St. Gall or fine French silk embroidery, either as a narrow band, galloon or medallion, do not hesitate in work It Into your blouse for the touch of color. These delicately colored appliques or medallions are much more effective if outlined by narrow frills or plealinga of Val. or Chantllly lace. MART DEAN. Good Form in Pub lic Places YOUNG people frequently become most embarrassed when they suddenly realize that on the street, In a public conveyance, at the theater, the restaurant, or church they have done some trifling thing to make themselves conspicuous. Here are a few simple rules which the uninitiated will do well to memorize: When a young man meets one or more girls on the streetcar, by accident he does not offer to pay their fares. That la Ills privilege only when he Is their escort for the trip. Girls in business are often joined at lunch by young men employed In the same offices. Under these - circum stances there need be no embarrass ment over the check. The girl pays her own bill precisely as if the man had not appeared on the scene. When escorting a girl to the theater, church or restaurant, the man must first ascertain whether there Is an usher or head waiter at the. door. If there Is,-he permits the girl to enter first, holding the door open for her. The usher or waiter leads the way down the aisle, the girl following and the man coming last. If no usher or waiter Is In attendance, then the man goes first to find a seat or table. On the streetcar or in a public audi torium. If a man accompanies two girls he does not sit between them," bat "oh the end seal. Y. utMi U. uimi lias avacca wnn n Bin. he thanks, her for the pleasure; she mnv marolv rnmnl mnt Mb Ha.iflnir after he has expressed his appreciation. Neither does she thank the young man who has escorted her home from the ' residence or a mutual acquaintance. The pleasure Is supposed to be his.- When two persons are walking to gether and one meets an acquaintance with whom she wishes to speak Just a few words. Introductions are not. nec essary. The disinterested party can stand apart, apparently looking into a shop window or at the stream of ve hicles or pedestrians, until the conver-' : sation. which should be very brief, is completed. Only the confirmed invalid or aged woman takes a man's arm on the street In rin vllflrhr. The man alina bis band under a woman's arm only when be is assisting her Into a vehicle or across a crowded thoroughfare. When a man has performed some trifling courtesy for a girl he does not know, such as picking up a parcel, rescuing her i-.i a sudden Inrush of pas sengers, etc., she may acknowledge the kindness with a slight inclination of the head and thanks, but she 2oes not . continue the conversation. A man helps a girl into the car or carriage and then follows; but on leav ins the car he goes first, in order to assls. her to alight. The girl leaves all orders to her es cort. Never signal to a conductor to stop the car If you are nearlng your stopping place. Tell your escort that the next corner is yours. In a restau rant never signal for the waiter. That duty Is your escort's. If a man desires to chat with a wo man friend whom he meets on the street, he may walk for a short dis tance at her side, but unless she ex presses by word and act a willingness to be stopped, he will not detain her in conversation and thus make her con- ' spicuous. Tr a vminr man meets a srirl Who Is accompanied by another man whom he does not know, he will not offer to stop them and talk unless the gtrl makes the first move In this direction, as if desirous of Introducing the two men. When walking beside a girl who Is bound for a call, a shop or church, the man does not leave her .-.bruptly In the middle of the sidewalk, but goes to the door with her. ringing the bell for her if it Is a private residence, or opening the door of a public place, like restaurant, -shop or church. PRUDKNCE STANDISH. Tcmpora Mutantur. Harper's. A hook of verses underneath the tree Served Omar V. Khayyam right handily. Tour modern Omar, on the other hand. Is scarce content with anything so m. He wants a hammock iwung from limb te limb. And at his side, when rather Sol grew' dim. To keep bis eyes u-nstrained. lie calletta for A pocket Edlaon Electric Glim. And on the bough, beneath which he dots plan To He and take whatever eie he can. To keep him cool and hoo the flics aay He ha a braien-wlnged dynamic fan. When these are set bis idle fancy roams Not through one volume of soma maiden's ' po-m m But all the World's Best Letters he demand! Put forth in forty-ieven quarto tomes, . As for rh- Jus- and single loaf of bread Pon which our ptmpTe Omar one time fed. O'er that I draw the veil. Omar today Appears to have a better appetite and head. And Anally, a for that Item "Thou" That Omar wished for, sitting 'neath tha bough. Let it remain. In these days 'tis the same. For "thou" ' a synonym of "thousands"