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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 1, 1906)
42 wmmiTw suit g AC1I year the American woman I gains greater distinction in her manner of drossing.v The com pliment comes from a Frenchman, and he goes, on to say: "Gradually but surely she is learning to hav her clothes express grace as well as style, and the result Is that before many years have passed she will unques tionably hold the title of the best dressed woman In the world " Ifaving accorded hor due share of praise, ho continues: "She lias yet, however, to learn the value of lines, that is to say, perfect contour of the llgure from tip to toe on all sides. It is this very thing which distinguishes the Parisian woman above all hor sis ters in the world of dress, for she will not tolerate straight and uneym- ntrlntil lltme In nnv nnrt nf lirr rat lin. And her rivals across the water must Insist upon undulating curves and plcturesquo lines at whatever an glo they may view themselves If they hope to gain the coveted goal of be ing perfectly attired." The advlco comes at an opportune moment. Those last few weeks when thn feminine world American is pre paring for the sartorial event of the year, Easter promenade, not a single point which makes for stylo can be lost sight of. Least of all can be over looked Tor an Instant this Important question of lines, and in planning the Kaster costume, the first and last thought must be. "Docs this or that line in a frock or suit add or detract from my stylo of figure?" To begin with. In the maze of modes which are being presented for Spring and Summer, two styles stand out prominently as fnvorltcs for all Ea tor costumes. The voguo of tho Em pire and princetis effects Is as tre mendous as it is trying, arm" do what ho may. the woman of fashion can not evade It. Her Easter frock, no matter how simple nor how unpre tentious Its cut. Will embody surely In some way one of theso Ideas, and which it shall be will "be determined largely by which displays lines best suited to her individual figure. Outside of costly experiments with dressmakers, there is but one metnod of finding this out. and that is to try on ready-made garments. Hard a task as this may seem, if her Easter ult Is to bo a success, a woman must search through the shops until she finds a variation of one of those styles which is really becoming to her. Fall ing to obtain a pprfect fit, she then has the alternative of having her dressmaker evolve tho frock or suit on similar lines. But only keen dis appointment can await the woman who attempts to have an Empire or princess dress mado before she has seen herself in one. and knows its shortcomings and unshapely ILbcs for her particular stylo of figure. Among tho ready-mado garments the princess gown in its many phases has found most decided favor, and it is shown in every color and cloth from tho most striking voiles and silk crepes. through variegated plaid tweeds and panamns, to exquisite soft cheviots and broadcloths. Colors will riot in the Easter prom enade, for the new shades are distinct ly brilliant, and the combinations are unlimited. Peacock blue shades, both light and dark, are prime favorites, though no color will ever wholly sup plant lavender and violet those deli rate hues which seem to have become a part of tho great Spring festival, so Inevitably do they make their appear anco at each year's dress parade. Black, too, always has its devotees, and among the creations of fashion able modiste, none is more noteworthy than a chiffon broadcloth suit with oorselet skirt and short bolero. Pan els of white guipure lace run ithe length of the skirt In front and back and over cither hip, and theso are trimmed at the sides by a single row of small Mask broadcloth buttons. Black suspender bands cxtond from the top of the corbclot over the shoulders. An all-lace bodice in pure white is worn with the suit, and the hat de signed to accompany it Is a pure white Panama straw with azure blue roses and white aigrette. Another more modest but very ele gant example of the corselet suit snows a severely plain, tight-fitting skirt In the new shade of brown a dud golden liue with an extremely chic bolero. The sole trimming is an ivory colored galloi sprinkled with gold threads, which sets off the sharp points of tho bolero, the simulated cuffs on the elbow sleeves and tho rever collar. A single row of braid also lines the top of a deep hem on tne skirt. The costume is finished off by a tip-tilted hat of brown and white straw laden above and massed beneath with pler.tcd rosettes of brown tulle. held in place by a largo gilt buckle. White osprey falls with charming grace over the side of the brim. In spite of these stunning dark cos tumes, light colors reign Jn the most popular of this year's Eastern suits. A wonderfully Jaunty corselet suit without the severe princess lines is shown in a mauve broadcloth with trimmings of liberty satin quilling and gold filigree ribbon. The skirt having circular sides reveals the approved pleated paniers at front and back which reach up over the deep corse let or girdle, and carry out the prin cess effect. And now to come to the one-piece princess frock, which demands so much of its wearer, but which, nevertheless, is unapproachable in its stunning ef fect for the woman to whom its un compromising lines are becoming. Of the fetching Spring models, it would be difficult to find ono which 1 more satisfactory in every regard tlnfn the check frock pictured. Hade of vollo over a silk slip, the frock is plaited to fit snugly to the figure about the waist and down over the hips. Below this it falls In pressed plaits and is finished by two wide tucks. The plaits also open out to give, a broad bust line, and a more charming dressing for the neck than the dainty lace and lawn collar and yoke cannot be Imagined. The material itself is sprinkled with a pal 6 green silk dot. which appears also on each of the cloth-covered but tons which line cither side of the front breadth., Touches of dark green silk give a certain character to the cos tume, and a green straw, trimmed with white primroses, completes a most effective and modish Easter frock. Handsome plaids, showing many of the season's bright hues, njso fashion these one-piece princess gowns. They are of necessity made very plain, with llttlo adornment, save pipings to match the dominant color in the ma terial. In tho plain fabrics, old-rose continues its vogue of the "Winter, and when set off by trimmings of black satin, it effects one of tho most un usual of the eccentric and striking Easter suits. Another odd Importation among the season's display shows an onion brown cloth In severe princess style, topped by . a lace trimmed bo lero and edged with very narrow bands of mink. To close this style of gown at the back, one of the most successful devices Is a shaped piece of tho material, which extends beyond the central opening and fastens at one side of the waistline, where it is gath ered or plaited Into a large cloth-covered button. In the matter of adapting lines to the figure, the Empress dress in Jts purest form requires infinite care in klts shuptng below tho bust line, and is anccicc -consequently ay very rew women for street wear. Modifications of this style of dress, though, are be ing accepted by the fnore daring followers or Dame Fashion, and ono of the Frenchlest of these effects shows a shirred skirt from hips to bustline with a simulated bolero tak- I lng the 2lacc of the Empire yke- If mmwSSmmmmmWmr JaLLLLLLILHaBalaLLv 11 The latter is given an ornate but very smart appearance by its sprinkling of heavy French Knots, A Grecian braid ing edges the Jaunty curves of tho coat yoke. Fine lace fills in the neck and the loose sieves, while a. gath ered band of black satin encircles the bustline and terminates directly at tho front in a huge metal buckle. ICATIIARIXE AXDERSON. Wires and Jfoncy. Delineator. TTtuallr It Is the shadow of money that brings the first partial eclipse to the honeymoon, and unless the problem Is rightly handled the eclipse may become total. The modern wife cannot be always Peking lor money and retain either her happiness or her self-respect. The hus band could not keep his business going if he did not have a. pay-day for his em ployes or If he was careless about settling his bills. He cannot expect to keep Jils house going without a financial arrange ment that will giro It regularity and se curity. It is passing strane that this matter saould be a ceastaat diSculty la millions of homes, but It Is a hardship which wives arc supposed to bear un complainingly. Sho Is a wise woman who rebels early and secures her rights, for che will never bs a successful wife until sho has her' part of the income without days of grace or discounts. This is im portant: It is vital. Unless It is made plain and duly fixed, all her other pur. poses and aspirations will be forever handicapped. A Joke on "Uncle Joe." Somebody played a. Joke on Speaker Cannon tne other day and "Uncle Joe' is looking for tho perpetrator. fVhes the Speaker sat.down at his desk he found a slip o: paper asking him to call up number o-&ad-so on the phone. He- did as requested, say ing: "Do you want mer "I doa't know, came back the aaswer. "Well. I haven't time to be fooUag arosad here; do you want mcT' insisted the Speaker. "Who are you. anyway r "This Is the Government hospital for the insaae was the reply. "If you think yom ought to be atrewsy coae ngat aiesg. Gifts for Post Jo Attempt Xow to Outshine Dar Mrs. It : Inclosed pltiM fled check for SIO -with which I am color to a J 2c you to do a favor for me. Tho Invitation for your Cousin Mary wedding with Mr. B reached me last week.' and I hare ben racking my brains erer sicca to know what I should end them. Now will you b so good as to reUsve me of this difficult task; I- feel saro that you will know Immediately what will be to her liking; and I shall b mora than Indebted to tou If too will see that he receives It with the inclosed card. Until 1 a week from Tuesdar. I am sincerely. T. is. c jlm K3- k tnrew tne letter rather 11 Impatiently on the desk before hr Jtnd Ml hark In VtT- hrlr "Bessie." to her daughter who was reading a letter of her own in an oppo site part of tho room. "Here's a letter from T C asking me to select a present for him for Mary, and I haven't yet decided what I'm going to give her myself. It's shockingly late, too, to be sending a gift to one's own relative, but I can't make up my mind Just What to giro on the money your father has al- fowed me. and now with another one to choose I sliall be at my wits' ends." "I wouldn't give any present at all If it was as hard work as that." interrupted the daughter of Independent spirit. "I'm sure it It was my wedding I shouldn't care to receive a gift which coat anyone as much worry as this seems to cause you. mother. 'As a matter of fact." replied Mrs. It . laughing, "there Is nothing In the world I enjoy more than buying wedding presents, but between you and me. I'm bound that whatever we send shall show up as well as any other and finer gifts which Mary may have. All of which means that I must buy something out of the ordinary which must still be useful and within my price." "Don't you remember at Dorothy's wed ding last year, the moat striking thing among the display of presents was a huge. eolld gold pitcher sent by her husband's college chum who is so very rich? Yet with all its unusual magnificence and cost liness It was not a bit more remarked up on nor admired by the guests than a pair of, antique candlesticks, duplicates of which I found later at a curiosity shop, and they cost only SO." This question of wedding presents. which comes to the average person at least once or twice a year. Is vexing to the individual and to the family alike. Should the individual be a man it is al ways an unsolvable enigma, and he gen erally falls back oa some woman friend. The result is that upon the mother or feminine members of a household devolves the task of selecting not only one. but many gifts at this season when wedding invitations are maxing tneir appearaace. and in case each person in the family gives personal remembrances, the problem does iateed become "brain racking." Novelty this year is unquestionably the k emote to the swart offerings to the Easter bride. Costliness has loeg deter mined the value of the wedding preseat. Neighbors and friends have vied with each other to nave nis or tier gift out' sbise the one of the person's next to theirs. Employes have delved deep Into their pockets to ted a. dollar or two mere wkiek weald increase the elega&ce aad efcewisea of tkeir presentaties. eat of res-sect to the bride or Kleegreea's fata er or mother wbeee favor they sottgat. School friends renewed the rivalry ef stu dent days, and sent this or that csstly souvenir that It might re ntct the present IjHreeperity f the seeder. Aad lastly, - Easter Brides Her Neighbor In the Offering. the maids and men who assisted at the ceremony felt that this above all occa sions was the time when they must spend the last cent if necessary on a really splendid token of friendship which would show their appreciation of the honor ac corded them, as well as prove a fitting memento of this Important event. This custom now, however. Is quite out of fashion. Showlness and tawdry ex pense no longer characterize the approved wedding gift of the hour, and the conver sation given at the beginning presents the gist of the problem which is being dis cussed seriously In the averago middle class household these last weeks before Easter gaieties set In. "What can we give this or that cousin or friend or ac quaintance which out of the ordinary. and still within a stipulated sum?" The amount of this stipulated sum has a very minor Importance. "Whichever member of the household has charge of the purse strings allows as much or as little money as can be readily spared at the moment. Then It is the duty of the feminine contingent to put their heads to gether and study out the very smartest, most unique bridal present which their imagination can conjure up. And woe be tide that adviser who has her suggestion accepted, and finally after a number of weeks discovers a similar offering in the brilliant array spread out to the view of curious guests on the day of the wed ding! And now as to the component parts of that array which Is of such a dif ferent character to its predecessors in years past. Crystal is the very favor ite gift this Spring, and among the many offerings in this transparent substance Is first and most novel of all a cutlery service for the table with strong oblong handles of clear, bright crystal. The knives and forks are most practical, and as glass playa such a large part In table decoration, these new additions serve admirably to carry out the scintillating prism effects which beautifully cut bowls and com pote dishes shower on the snowy cloth. Handsome carving knives and forks with the best quality of steel blades also make a wonderfully ac ceptable gift. Rock crystal salad bowls, drinking glasses, decanters, eta. rivaling as they do the very finest ot the more usual cut glass, are cov eted by every young woman who loves a perfectly equipped dining-room. Another charming gift, and one which la seldom thought of, is a serv ing tray of some sort or description. and the crystal variety find favor ahead of all others. Circular and dla raond-shaped trays of heavy plate glass show nickel frames with plain or twisted crystal handles, and the more costly ones reveal exquisite carv ings. Quite the newest silver tray of the season is for after-dinner coffee service, and Is two or three feet long and cot over eight Inches wide. This holds a tall, old-fashioned coffee pot. with sugar bowl and cream pitcher, and In the case of the large-size trays six or seven after-dinner coffee cups and saucers set along In a single or double row. Less costly trays of sil vered metal or inlaid wood In this same shape can also be obtained. Framed plctares are always wel corned as bridal gifts, but they should be set In simple moldings which will leek well la almost any room. Prints of famous pictures are always sure to please, and delicately printed photo graph give nearly tne enect -or an jarlglaal paiatisg. The fasaR) sable method of framing just now displays a wide gilt molding so arranged as to loolc like an, old-time mirror. It shows a long narrow shape, and when made to surround a lovely" little' water color seems lor allthe world as If "one-were looking at a perfect reflection in -a plate looking-glass.- instead of at a framed picture. Among the smaller gifts, tapestry desk and bureau tlttings strike the very keynote of popular fancy.' and a single frame covered with fawn-colored tapestry worked in pink and blue Marie Antoinette wreaths and flowers and edged with dull gilt braid has a practical value which doubles Its In herent worth. In the same way boxes, trays and all the handy accessories that furnish the bride's new home meet with her most gracious approval and also make a splendid showing even among more pretentious silver and glass gifts. A revival of the winter, bric-a-brac af many kinds In glazed porcelain of fers a wide field from wlucn to choose unique gifts. Elephants, crouching cats and dogs, or lions and tigers in springing posture, and charming groups of flower maidens or Dutch boys holding a basket or a fern pot. have each a decorative value of their own. and are not very expensive. Porcelain vases showing figures of nymphs and pretty gold filigree through which green stems may ho seen, will also come . in very handy bath for use and beauty. Lastly, and of great importance to the bride personally, are the sets of lingerie, hand macje or the best quality ready-made garments. which girl friends have chosen to make as their wedding gifts this year. Fine linen dollies or table napkins or damask cloths for the best table service should not be forgotten, for no true woman can ever have more handsome napery than she can make use of. Proper Coiffure With Easter Hats FOR the first time since the early .Vic torian era of fashions, the coiffure or chignon and not the Easter hat. is the absorbing question of the moment. You may touch the top notch of prices in millinery and yet. neglecting to pay your devotions to the hair dresser's altar, be hopelessly out of style. In fact, it is th? hairdresser and not the milliner who will set the seal of success on your Easter get-up.. For more than half a century women have been permitted fo dress their hair In a manner which, despite many, ex. tremes of bangs and pompadour lias still suggestive naturalness. Today the end and aim of the hairdresser seems to be the suggestion of a wig. and it mat ters little whether the effect Is accom plished by a woman's own hair or the multiplicity of hirsute devices which nimble-fingered halrworkors now evolve. And mark you. tho smartest woman has these evolved from her own combings and not from tlie hair supply of the shop. No combings are too small to command the attention of the modern maker of trans formations, curls, fringes, bangs, etc. Presupposing that you have just ordered from your milliner one of those chic and indescribably trying chapeaux that resem ble a lid ten Inches In diameter or less, tip-tilted on the left side with feather. and flowers, make your very next duty a visit to an expert coiffeur. Above all things do not let your husband or your sweetheart catch a gllmps of you In tho new creation until the dapper Frenchman in your favorite halrdressing establish ment has used his skill In the becoming arrangement of your coiffure. The aver age man 13 strongly prejudiced against the new hat. and -you should only let him see you wearing it when you are at your beat. Therefore, tuck the hat back in th bandbox as soon as It arrives, and hi you to the aforementioned builder of coiffures. If your head" has been sham-" poocd and Is full of electricity and dis porting "ends." his first act will be to oil It with a preparation whose secret is his own. This will smooth down the objec tionable ends and give the entire head or hair a packed appearance that reminds you of the locks In bronze work. Now the greater part of your hair is drawn forward or away from the center of the scalp. In a thick fringe back and front and sides, and the mere whisp left at the crown of the head Is knotted or twisted into a little mat. Then with Infinite care the fringe is marccled. If you have a small amount of hair, thf coiffeur fastens on the crown of your head a wire cushion, and this, by the way. is wonderfully light and sanitarx-. very different from the mat of coarse hair or hair cloth once used for this purpose. Over this cushion is drawn the wisp of hair left on the crown, after whicli It Is padded with the ends of the fringe rolled and fastened with Innumerable in visible hat pins. Very few large hair pins are employed and the marcel at the back is pronounced but not baggy. It is allowed to drop enough to give the chignon effect, yet not fall on the neck and give an untidy look. Now If you arc fortunate enough to possess a handsome switch made from your own combings, this is braided in four streams instead of three and is laid around the cushion standing up like a coronet, the higher the better, if you are dressing for the street no orna ments are used save jeweled combs, ir for the evening, the ostrich feather or sparkling aigrette is employed. And lastly, the entire coiffure is touched up with brllllantine and is ready for the dinky little hat. for which It has been especially built, and which will now find favor in the eyes of any man not. wise to hairdressers wiles. A Candid Confession I often think if I -were rich of how I'd help th poor. Of how Pd have both food and clothes de livered at the door Of soma poor fetlow who was sick- and frleadless as a rat. And how I'd go about all day performing stunts like that But when I seriously reflect on what X fall to do (And possibly this selfsame thing may have occurred to you). Unto myself I must admit, although the thought doth stlag. If I were rich the chances are I wouldn't do a thing. Atlanta, CoastituUon. '