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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 7, 1906)
SUNDAY OREGONIAX, POHTLA1), JANUARY at the right of the crown graces a crown 'K9HHt 13 ft? HtBsBBs I hmMe 'yIIIII (II mTP of ermine, minu-s the tiny black tails. I BB-, JteV I JtfJ llLIi When u really desirable plume Is pro- 1 IBMBBBy j- 4-1 i l i.irifUl IImTTL il Ml llUKV hlbltive lu price. Parisian advices say I HW BMKiL '.J J LBBBbI i4it aUrAiLW II l(ir'TEU" 1 that flowers In combination with tulle are I BBBBBBBW B; : 'iiiLW'lBBaBBai 1 1 iiWWl Wjfi&iM very much in evidence. All of which I HHK.'Y ' r-WZ BBBB wMIVlti MlnBBtfWTr If' means that a bit of millinery laden with I HKr ' 'HSBYi WMl JMl MTmWE I 1 ill Whether the craze for tinsel trimmings 1 HV mt t K l will last over another season is a doubt- V S3 MX - BBBv 1 tu question. Previous experience with I wEBg flf? - '--''' Hl these brilliant embellishments -would so 1 lfBBLB " - BBB I Aw to show that their life is for oqe season BmAB BBBBm I only, first because of their expense 1 SBBBBBBBBf BBBBB 1 and second because they have never yet VB . Ji lBBBl been made so they will not tarnish. I P lR Another Winter of -which I BBBBBBBBw lBVSml the continued vogue, however. as- I BBBBBBBBT - BVSftl surcd is the trimming of feathery BBBBBBBY 1 osprey. In -spite of the annoying: faculty I BBBBBBBY .BBBBB 1 these long- plumes have for sweeping in I vB SmT . near-by faces, they give a remarkably I fewc, IBvBl stunning touch, which is dear to the up- 1 tcBBY " "4 H to-date feminine heart. I ugjVBW' VBbW Pliame-Decked Shapes io fiats Aire Latest Pot Eveeleg Frock, Silk Bodice With Skirt ' of Chiffon or Silk HmsMo Is Very flodish mm By Katharine Anderson. WHILE the greater part of a wom an's wardrobe has been settled by this time, with the season of gayctics at its height, an addition here and there to the street or evening -costume Is always necessary that the toil ette ma' hayc a fresh appearance at each djfferent function. The shopkeepers, too, with a view to bracing up post-holiday trade, are offering all sorts of induce ments in the way of really charming gar ments for dressy wear, at astonishingly low prices. So the woman who has not spent all her money on Christmas shopping, or hns waited until this time before purchasing all her evening costumes, will find any number of choice selections to pick from, including marked down hats, evening wraps and light, youthful dinner and theater frocks. In the millinery world are offered tho greatest number of desirable bargains. Plumes adorn most of the Winter even ing models and hats with ostrich feather trimmings are always a spfendld invest ment. It pays to buy full plumes and one of fairly good length is worth - three short ones. Hence, in choosing a hat from these mid-season bargains, If the contents of the pocket-book permit, choose one from the counter that dis plays the plume decked shapes. They are most youthful, as well, and will be worn another year without doubt. Old Rose Shades Fetching. In illustration of smart -plumc-trlmmed headgear, an old rose beaver- carries the distinction of an imported hat. Becom ingly bent with the large flaring ."hape now gaining a marked vogue In Paris. Prince of Wales feathers in various old rose shades droop majestically at the left, while old rose chiffon velvet, forms a full Tarn o'Shanter crown. Another fetching evening hat that is destined to be a favorite next year shows a flat brim of deep amethyst velvet. A white plume under the back of the left brim tilts the hat slightly over ithe right eye. To emphasize this tilt, a silver rose V A Striking Black Hut. A striking Parisian model, -which shows this style of adornment. Is a black hat in mushroom shape, with a decided. pitch over the face. Peeping over the front of the brim a silken blackbird has its body almost hidden in choux of black tulle, from which the osprey emerges 1h a sweeping slant to the left. Black tulle conceals the bandeau at the back. No headgear could set off a light frock him! a pretty face more youthfully nor more effectively than a black hat on the order of this extremely smart model. It would be difficult to find any greater bargains in evening coats than have been shown all the Fall. The season has been a noteworthy one for fetching wraps of fered at most reasonable prices. An Im provement In the cut is perhaps tne one feature which characterizes the mid-season models. Broadcloth reigns all su preme as the material for the drossy cloak, while for the wrap intended for evening use alone delicate shades of ivory, biscuit color, dead rose and petunia, arc prime favorites. Of two popular cuts, the empire corse- Simple Desserts That Aid Digestion let effect has attained an " enormous . vogue. A striking method of setting off 'this deep yoke, Is to braid it all over in : simple design. Soutache braid, with J glintlngs of sliver or gold, accomplish this most handsomely. This Is applied by hand. -High rolling collars, very wide J sleeves and flaring braided revers give ! thoe coats an essentially smart linlsh. The second of the season's models hangs from tho shoulder?, and in most instances has a voluminous hood at tached at th back. Wool wadding and a soft taffeta lining, that matches the broadcloth, render theae loose wraps delightfully cozy. if trimmings are employed, roft quillings of silk arc charmingly youthful and much in evi dence. These emerge from cither edge of wide' collar and cuffs, while rosottes of the pleated silk, with fancy button centers, adorn the jabot revers of broad cloth. Stltchings of silk In three or four rows outline the hems, and In one In stance a deep silt In the two seams on either side of the full coat skirt. Youthful Evening Frocks. Among the most youthful evening frocks arc thefce built of chiffon. moun llne. or, lovelier than all. diaphunous spotted nets. Lace Is an Inevitable ac- compauiment of these clinging materials and supple liberty ribbons and satins add a touch of brilliance to these otherwise lusterless fabrics. An ivory white evening frock of chif fon that Is a nass of finest hnnd shlr rlngs. Is unique in its style. Topped by a black-plumed hat with maline and rose undertrimmlngs. it mukes an unusually fetching and picturesque costume. Ivory white satin ribbon intercepting- rows of closely shirred chiffon, shapes a deep bolero. Around the edges of this baby Irish lce piped with black vel vet almost conceals a dninty vest set off by Jet buckle trimmings. An over skirt effect of the ribbon and shirred chiffon distinguishes the slightly trailing- jupe. For subtle color combinations, a plaited evening- gown stands out with marked distinction. Pale mauve chif fon stamped with wreaths in coppery pinks and reds falls over pale blue silk in wide kilt plaits. Two lines of wide insertion worked with a thread of gold down the front of the skirt give a desirable slim look. The neck -cut low In the shape of a deep V from the shoulders Is piped with folds of mauve chiffon. Brctelles of chiffon i with edges of gold-run Insertion en- circle the shoulders like a bertlm, tho right side crossing- the left and extending- in surplice fashion to tho waist line. As a practical evening- frock which is extremely modish, the silk bodice with a skirt of chiffon or silk muslin has no rival. A wide liberty satin bund gives body to the hem of tho jupe. The waist takes tho form of a tight-fitting- basquo with shaped pep lum. Very short sleeves and low oval neck may be tinished or not. as de sired, with lace cuffs and yoke. Ring- spotted and dotted net frocks that somehow reveal the essence of youthful dressing- are made up over Inexpensive mull or chiffon to soften their almost stiff texture. A very dain ty crontlon of spotted net displays a pale Ivory lining- 'of silk moussellne. The graceful lines of the waist and skirt are outlined by mullne insertion run with a combination of shell pink and pastel blue ribbons. The sleeves are short puffs with ruffles of maline lace. On simpler frocks of spotted net white ruched ribbon forms the trim mings. A daintily gathered vest Is out lined by a wide kilting- of ribbon edged net that extends from shoulder to waist line. . A COMMON custom In the up-to-date household is to omit dessert as a last course at dinner. This lias come about largely because of the heavy old-fashioned sweetmeats which by their unnecessary richness delayed the diges tion of the more nourishing foods which had preceded them, and caused a general discomfort for at least an hour after the meal. There are simple desserts, how ever, which if prepared with care not only make a delicious finish for a good dinner, but by the peculiar blending of their Ingredients, aid in the digestion of the heartier foods. One of the most pal atable and economical of these is: Chocolate Brea.d Pudding To fill a two quart pudding dish, soak two cups of stale breadcrumbs in four cups of scald ed milk for SO minutes. In the meantime melt two squares of unsweetened choco late in a saucepan over hot water. To this chocolate add half a cup of sugar not more and enough milk taken from the break and milk to make a liquid that will pour easily. Now gradually mix this chocolate with the milk and breadcrumbs. Stir in a quarter of a cup of sugar, one quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of vanilla and two eggs that have been whipped gently together with a fork. Butter a porcelain pudding dish, turn In the above mixture and bake in a moderate oven for one hour. When cooked this should have a rich dark brown surface that is slightly crusty, and if served hot with whipped cream will lend a zest to any dinner. Caramel Cream Pudding Put two cups of milk and one cup of thin cream into a .saucepan with rfour ounces of loaf sugar and the thinly pared rind of balf a lemon. Beat the yolks of four eggs very thor-. oughly and whisk the whites to a stiff froth, finally mixing them with the yolks. As soon as the mlk .reaches the boiling point pour it intp the basin containing 'the eggs. Stir until it becomes a smooth custard, remove from the fire and leave to cool. Put four ounces of loaf sugar into a small enamel saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of cold water. Stir oc casionally until the sugar has melted and then let it boll gently -until the syrup becomes caramel and turns a deep gold en brown. Pour the caramel Into a warm china bowl and turn the latter round and round until it is evenly coat ed with the brown caramel. Place the bowl, which should be one of good size, in a basin of ice cold water or crushed ice so that the caramel will set at once. Add one teaspoonful and a half of vanll la to the custard and pour It .into the caramel-lined bowl. Cover securely with buttered paper and cook for 33 minutes In a moderate oven. Pour out of the bowl onto a platter and serve at once. Mocha- Pudding Make a scant cup of very strong coffee by boiling the freshly ground coffee beans with boiling milk rather than water. When this Is cooked and free from all grounds, place in a saucepan with six tablespoonfuls of but ter and as soon as these ingredients have blended, add six ounces of finely grated sponge cake or stale lady fingers. Stir the mixture over the fire until It is suf ficiently thick to leave the sides of the pan. Take from the stove and add four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, one teaspoonful and a half of vanilla extract and the yolks of four eggs, beating one at a time into the mixture before add ing another. Add a pinch of salt to the whites of the four eggs and whisk them to a stiff froth. Stir them lightly Into the pudding. Pour the mixture into a mold and steam for two hours. Serve with the following custard: Coffee Custard Put one cup and a half of milk in a double boiler and add one tablespoonful of cornstarch "which has bepn dissolved In a .little. .cold milk. Al 'low Ihe willk and cornstarch Xo become thoroughly blended and add one tea spoonful of sugar. Whip one egg to a froth and pour into the cornstarch mix ture, stirring all the time until it is per fectly smooth, but not too thick. Two minutes is usually sufficient to leave on the fire. Add one-half teaspoonful of coffee extract. Lemon Pudding Put two tablespoonfuls of butter In a saucepan and when molted stir in by degrees one tablespoonful of flour and one tablespoonful of corn flour, the two having been previously mixed together. As soon as the ingredients form a perfectly smooth paste, add grad ually, stirring all the time, one pint of milk. Continue to stir until the mixture has boiled and thickened. Remove the pan from the stove and. add three table spoonfuls of granulated sugar, the grat ed rind of a large lemon and a table spoonful of brandy or one teaspoonful of vanilla. Beat In by degrees the yolks of two eggs which have been whipped, and If handy one tablespoonful of finely chopped candled lemon peel. Add a pinch of salt to the whites of the two eggs and whisk to a firm froth. When the pudding Is cool stir in the strained juice of the lemon, a little at a time, and then the whites of the eggs. Line a' pudding dish with very light pastry, pour In the lemon mixture and bake In a fairly quick oven until the top is lightly and evenly browned. The heat must not be fierce nor should the pudding be allowed to re main in the oven more than 20 or 30 min utes or It will curdle and 'be spoiled. , Meringue with Whipped Cream Fill ing Whisk the whites of four eggs to a very stiff froth. Great care should be taken In separating the yolks from the whites as the smallest portion of yellow would spoil all chances of obtaining the requisite Stiffness which is the secret of a successful meringue Mix in quickly and lightly with a wooden .spoon, half a pound of granulated sujjar that hzs been pounded almost to a powder. Cover the bottom of a large flat pudding dish with oiled paper and drop the meringue paste on it. one tablespoonful at a time, so that It forms an oblong shape the size of an egg. When the paste is disposed of in this way, dredge with powdered sugar and place the tin in a moderately hot oven. When done they should be a pale fawn color. If the oven Is too slow the mixture will spread and the shape will be spoiled. After taking the me ringues from the oven, carefully remove the yoft paste from the Inside wth a spoon. Return to the oven for a few minutes to dry and then let them cool on a sfeve. Filled with whipped cream flavored with vanilla, the meringue makes a most delicate and satisfying dessert. Mousse of Apricots Stew half a pound of apricots until they become a. very soft pulp and pass through a sieve. To each pint of pulp add the grated rind of half a lemon, a teaspoonful of lemon Juice, one teaspoonful of vanilla and half a cup of hot cream. Dissolve one ounce of gelatine in half a cup of hot cream, add the sieved apricots. WThlp two cups of sweet cream and add one teaspoonful of ugar. Add to the gelatine mixture beating all together lightly for a few mo ments, and pour Into a fancy mold un til cold and firm. Brown Betty With Cider Sauc Pare and cut six tart apples into quarters. Dry four slices of bread in the oven and when crisp break into small pieces. Cover the bottom of a baking dish with a layer of bread, then a layer of apples and dust with granulated sugar. Continue these layers, having the bread last. Cut one tablespoonful of butter into small bits and scatter them among the pieces ot bread. Bake in a quiet oven for 30 min utes. Cider Sauce Mix together one-half .pint of sweet cider, one-half cup of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of lemon Juice. Boll for about three minutes until it begins to thicken. Solomon, Slightly Altered. Atchison Globe. A good. cook is. more to.be desired, than Ereat!ricl- Some Odd Trinkets Worn for Luck JVJIDWAY between sentiment and su I 1 pcrstitlon lies a feminine trait which cherishes odd little trinkets that seem to bring luck. That any Jeweled bauble can possibly change the capricious whims of Dame Fortune remains as always a shadowy possibility. That a pleasant memory attached to some small orna ment can be constantly recalled by the treasured trinket is without doubt. So with divided affection, women still cling to the savage luck charm as closely in 1S0S as did their barbaric sisters whose calendar was the setting sun. It Is with the most up-tb-datc business women that one finds the most novel trinkets. Actresses particularly wear un usual luck ornaments and not the least fetching of these is a gold chain which never leaves the neck of a very pretty leading woman In a favorite stock com pany. Caught between the delicate links at Intervals of two Inches are all sorts of semi-precious stones as well as genu ine gems. Each Individual stone represents the gift of some good friend who has been associated with her in her stage career, and the chain already holds twenty jewels as well as a souvenir pendant gold and enameled brownie with diamond eyes. The different stones include a rare yel low diamond and topaz, several oddly shaped water pearls, and clasping the chain at the back a large square garnet of richest hue. Then there is' a very popular ttacher who has been at the head of a shorthand school for a number of years. Her luck souvenir is a coin waist belt made en tirely of ten-cent pieces. It was started by her first class of girls, everyone of whom was devoted to her. When their term was over, however, their very meagre pocket books would allow the ma jority of them to give only ten cents "sL&tecc So .on of their .members con ceived the happy idea of having the dimes joined in the form of a bracelet, and each girl's Initial was scratched on Liberty's cap. Ah class followed class, the idea took root and the ten link bracelet has grown to a good-sized waist belt with four rows of coins. Some are thick and some are thin and many bear hardly a resemblance to the newly-mlntcd dime, but they all carry the Initial of some young pupil to whom the cheery teacher was an Inspira tion, and the corns stand for everything in the world to their owner. In fact, so much a part of her has the belt become, that she never thinks of going anywhere without It, and she sleeps with it under her pillow at night. In contrast to this luck charm of friend ship is the luck trinket of a very attrac tive young matron. Five years ago, in reply to her wedding Invitation, came a tiny white kid box from a well-known jeweler. It contained two beautiful fancy gold stock pins, each a perfect Imitation of a peacock feather. The card inclosed bore the name of a girl with whom she had the very slightest acquaintance.' but whom she knew to have a liking for her future husband. Undaunted, the bride-to-be Immediately pinned one of these unlucky feathers on her dress, and from that day to this she has never been without one or the other of them fastened somewhere about her costume. Not long since, when this very happy matron received the wedding Invi tation of her husband's one-time friend, he suggested that his wife send a hund-somely-mounted rabbit's foot as a pres ent. She decided, however, that Fate had been In the way of this jocular revenge. Sisters of the 'Pope Rosa, Maria and Anna Sarto, the sisters of the Pope, continue to be the subjects of much excusable curiosity and admira tion in Rome. They live In a plain but comfortable apartment over a store where prayer-books, pictures, medals, rosaries and like goods are sold. In a street close to tho Vatican. They live and dress very plainly, and give all their time outside of household duties to visiting the sick and poor In hospitals and at their homes. As sisters of the Pope they are entitled to be called Countesses and have car riages and servants and make and re ceive calls among the aristocracy. ' But tho Pope and they were one in refusing the honor and all it entailed, and they are a model to. the world of humble industry and peaceful contentment. They are not In "socleti." The Sarto sisters have a telephone to tho Vatican, for they go to see their brother only by appointment. "Do you see the holy father often?" I asked Maria. 'Twice a week, on "Wednesdays and Sundays, for half an hour or an hour." I remember Rosa having told me of his habit of looking at his watch when they go to see him, often from stress of work being obliged to hurry them off: She also had Informed me that the report that tho sisters dine with him once a week was quite untrue. " 'Santo Padre' or 'Sua Santita before people, but 'Guiseppc always wL-.n wa are alone with him." On Sundays the sisters assist at tha mass of the holy father: on other days they go to mass at the Church of Santa ilaria In Transpontlna. New Century.