SUNDAY OREGONIAX, POHTLA1), JANUARY
at the right of the crown graces a crown 'K9HHt 13 ft? HtBsBBs I hmMe 'yIIIII (II mTP
of ermine, minu-s the tiny black tails. I BB-, JteV I JtfJ llLIi
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these brilliant embellishments -would so 1 lfBBLB " - BBB I Aw
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only, first because of their expense 1 SBBBBBBBBf BBBBB 1
and second because they have never yet VB . Ji lBBBl
been made so they will not tarnish. I P lR
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the continued vogue, however. as- I BBBBBBBBT - BVSftl
surcd is the trimming of feathery BBBBBBBY 1
osprey. In -spite of the annoying: faculty I BBBBBBBY .BBBBB 1
these long- plumes have for sweeping in I vB SmT .
near-by faces, they give a remarkably I fewc, IBvBl
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Pliame-Decked Shapes io fiats Aire Latest
Pot Eveeleg Frock, Silk Bodice With Skirt
' of Chiffon or Silk HmsMo Is Very flodish
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By Katharine Anderson.
WHILE the greater part of a wom
an's wardrobe has been settled by
this time, with the season of
gayctics at its height, an addition here
and there to the street or evening -costume
Is always necessary that the toil
ette ma' hayc a fresh appearance at each
djfferent function. The shopkeepers, too,
with a view to bracing up post-holiday
trade, are offering all sorts of induce
ments in the way of really charming gar
ments for dressy wear, at astonishingly
low prices.
So the woman who has not spent all
her money on Christmas shopping, or hns
waited until this time before purchasing
all her evening costumes, will find any
number of choice selections to pick from,
including marked down hats, evening
wraps and light, youthful dinner and
theater frocks.
In the millinery world are offered tho
greatest number of desirable bargains.
Plumes adorn most of the Winter even
ing models and hats with ostrich feather
trimmings are always a spfendld invest
ment. It pays to buy full plumes and one
of fairly good length is worth - three
short ones. Hence, in choosing a hat
from these mid-season bargains, If the
contents of the pocket-book permit,
choose one from the counter that dis
plays the plume decked shapes. They are
most youthful, as well, and will be worn
another year without doubt.
Old Rose Shades Fetching.
In illustration of smart -plumc-trlmmed
headgear, an old rose beaver- carries the
distinction of an imported hat. Becom
ingly bent with the large flaring ."hape
now gaining a marked vogue In Paris.
Prince of Wales feathers in various old
rose shades droop majestically at the left,
while old rose chiffon velvet, forms a full
Tarn o'Shanter crown.
Another fetching evening hat that is
destined to be a favorite next year shows
a flat brim of deep amethyst velvet. A
white plume under the back of the left
brim tilts the hat slightly over ithe right
eye. To emphasize this tilt, a silver rose
V
A Striking Black Hut.
A striking Parisian model, -which shows
this style of adornment. Is a black hat
in mushroom shape, with a decided. pitch
over the face. Peeping over the front of
the brim a silken blackbird has its body
almost hidden in choux of black tulle,
from which the osprey emerges 1h a
sweeping slant to the left. Black tulle
conceals the bandeau at the back. No
headgear could set off a light frock him!
a pretty face more youthfully nor more
effectively than a black hat on the order
of this extremely smart model.
It would be difficult to find any greater
bargains in evening coats than have been
shown all the Fall. The season has been
a noteworthy one for fetching wraps of
fered at most reasonable prices. An Im
provement In the cut is perhaps tne one
feature which characterizes the mid-season
models. Broadcloth reigns all su
preme as the material for the drossy
cloak, while for the wrap intended for
evening use alone delicate shades of
ivory, biscuit color, dead rose and petunia,
arc prime favorites.
Of two popular cuts, the empire corse-
Simple Desserts That Aid Digestion
let effect has attained an " enormous .
vogue. A striking method of setting off
'this deep yoke, Is to braid it all over in :
simple design. Soutache braid, with J
glintlngs of sliver or gold, accomplish
this most handsomely. This Is applied
by hand. -High rolling collars, very wide J
sleeves and flaring braided revers give !
thoe coats an essentially smart linlsh.
The second of the season's models
hangs from tho shoulder?, and in most
instances has a voluminous hood at
tached at th back. Wool wadding and
a soft taffeta lining, that matches the
broadcloth, render theae loose wraps
delightfully cozy. if trimmings are
employed, roft quillings of silk arc
charmingly youthful and much in evi
dence. These emerge from cither edge
of wide' collar and cuffs, while rosottes
of the pleated silk, with fancy button
centers, adorn the jabot revers of broad
cloth. Stltchings of silk In three or four
rows outline the hems, and In one In
stance a deep silt In the two seams on
either side of the full coat skirt.
Youthful Evening Frocks.
Among the most youthful evening
frocks arc thefce built of chiffon. moun
llne. or, lovelier than all. diaphunous
spotted nets. Lace Is an Inevitable ac-
compauiment of these clinging materials
and supple liberty ribbons and satins add
a touch of brilliance to these otherwise
lusterless fabrics.
An ivory white evening frock of chif
fon that Is a nass of finest hnnd shlr
rlngs. Is unique in its style. Topped by
a black-plumed hat with maline and rose
undertrimmlngs. it mukes an unusually
fetching and picturesque costume. Ivory
white satin ribbon intercepting- rows
of closely shirred chiffon, shapes a
deep bolero. Around the edges of this
baby Irish lce piped with black vel
vet almost conceals a dninty vest set
off by Jet buckle trimmings. An over
skirt effect of the ribbon and shirred
chiffon distinguishes the slightly trailing-
jupe.
For subtle color combinations, a
plaited evening- gown stands out with
marked distinction. Pale mauve chif
fon stamped with wreaths in coppery
pinks and reds falls over pale blue
silk in wide kilt plaits. Two lines of
wide insertion worked with a thread
of gold down the front of the skirt
give a desirable slim look. The neck
-cut low In the shape of a deep V from
the shoulders Is piped with folds of
mauve chiffon. Brctelles of chiffon
i with edges of gold-run Insertion en-
circle the shoulders like a bertlm, tho
right side crossing- the left and extending-
in surplice fashion to tho
waist line.
As a practical evening- frock which
is extremely modish, the silk bodice
with a skirt of chiffon or silk muslin
has no rival. A wide liberty satin
bund gives body to the hem of tho
jupe. The waist takes tho form of a
tight-fitting- basquo with shaped pep
lum. Very short sleeves and low oval
neck may be tinished or not. as de
sired, with lace cuffs and yoke.
Ring- spotted and dotted net frocks
that somehow reveal the essence of
youthful dressing- are made up over
Inexpensive mull or chiffon to soften
their almost stiff texture. A very dain
ty crontlon of spotted net displays a
pale Ivory lining- 'of silk moussellne.
The graceful lines of the waist and
skirt are outlined by mullne insertion
run with a combination of shell pink
and pastel blue ribbons. The sleeves
are short puffs with ruffles of maline
lace. On simpler frocks of spotted net
white ruched ribbon forms the trim
mings. A daintily gathered vest Is out
lined by a wide kilting- of ribbon
edged net that extends from shoulder
to waist line. .
A COMMON custom In the up-to-date
household is to omit dessert as a
last course at dinner. This lias
come about largely because of the heavy
old-fashioned sweetmeats which by their
unnecessary richness delayed the diges
tion of the more nourishing foods which
had preceded them, and caused a general
discomfort for at least an hour after the
meal. There are simple desserts, how
ever, which if prepared with care not
only make a delicious finish for a good
dinner, but by the peculiar blending of
their Ingredients, aid in the digestion of
the heartier foods. One of the most pal
atable and economical of these is:
Chocolate Brea.d Pudding To fill a two
quart pudding dish, soak two cups of
stale breadcrumbs in four cups of scald
ed milk for SO minutes. In the meantime
melt two squares of unsweetened choco
late in a saucepan over hot water. To
this chocolate add half a cup of sugar
not more and enough milk taken from
the break and milk to make a liquid that
will pour easily. Now gradually mix this
chocolate with the milk and breadcrumbs.
Stir in a quarter of a cup of sugar, one
quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, one
teaspoonful of vanilla and two eggs that
have been whipped gently together with
a fork. Butter a porcelain pudding dish,
turn In the above mixture and bake in a
moderate oven for one hour. When
cooked this should have a rich dark
brown surface that is slightly crusty,
and if served hot with whipped cream
will lend a zest to any dinner.
Caramel Cream Pudding Put two cups
of milk and one cup of thin cream into a
.saucepan with rfour ounces of loaf sugar
and the thinly pared rind of balf a lemon.
Beat the yolks of four eggs very thor-.
oughly and whisk the whites to a stiff
froth, finally mixing them with the yolks.
As soon as the mlk .reaches the boiling
point pour it intp the basin containing 'the
eggs. Stir until it becomes a smooth
custard, remove from the fire and leave
to cool. Put four ounces of loaf sugar
into a small enamel saucepan with two
tablespoonfuls of cold water. Stir oc
casionally until the sugar has melted and
then let it boll gently -until the syrup
becomes caramel and turns a deep gold
en brown. Pour the caramel Into a
warm china bowl and turn the latter
round and round until it is evenly coat
ed with the brown caramel. Place the
bowl, which should be one of good size,
in a basin of ice cold water or crushed
ice so that the caramel will set at once.
Add one teaspoonful and a half of vanll
la to the custard and pour It .into the
caramel-lined bowl. Cover securely with
buttered paper and cook for 33 minutes
In a moderate oven. Pour out of the
bowl onto a platter and serve at once.
Mocha- Pudding Make a scant cup of
very strong coffee by boiling the freshly
ground coffee beans with boiling milk
rather than water. When this Is cooked
and free from all grounds, place in a
saucepan with six tablespoonfuls of but
ter and as soon as these ingredients have
blended, add six ounces of finely grated
sponge cake or stale lady fingers. Stir
the mixture over the fire until It is suf
ficiently thick to leave the sides of the
pan. Take from the stove and add four
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, one
teaspoonful and a half of vanilla extract
and the yolks of four eggs, beating one
at a time into the mixture before add
ing another. Add a pinch of salt to the
whites of the four eggs and whisk them
to a stiff froth. Stir them lightly Into
the pudding. Pour the mixture into a
mold and steam for two hours. Serve
with the following custard:
Coffee Custard Put one cup and a half
of milk in a double boiler and add one
tablespoonful of cornstarch "which has
bepn dissolved In a .little. .cold milk. Al
'low Ihe willk and cornstarch Xo become
thoroughly blended and add one tea
spoonful of sugar. Whip one egg to a
froth and pour into the cornstarch mix
ture, stirring all the time until it is per
fectly smooth, but not too thick. Two
minutes is usually sufficient to leave on
the fire. Add one-half teaspoonful of
coffee extract.
Lemon Pudding Put two tablespoonfuls
of butter In a saucepan and when molted
stir in by degrees one tablespoonful of
flour and one tablespoonful of corn flour,
the two having been previously mixed
together. As soon as the ingredients
form a perfectly smooth paste, add grad
ually, stirring all the time, one pint of
milk. Continue to stir until the mixture
has boiled and thickened. Remove the
pan from the stove and. add three table
spoonfuls of granulated sugar, the grat
ed rind of a large lemon and a table
spoonful of brandy or one teaspoonful of
vanilla. Beat In by degrees the yolks
of two eggs which have been whipped,
and If handy one tablespoonful of finely
chopped candled lemon peel. Add a pinch
of salt to the whites of the two eggs
and whisk to a firm froth. When the
pudding Is cool stir in the strained juice
of the lemon, a little at a time, and then
the whites of the eggs. Line a' pudding
dish with very light pastry, pour In the
lemon mixture and bake In a fairly quick
oven until the top is lightly and evenly
browned. The heat must not be fierce
nor should the pudding be allowed to re
main in the oven more than 20 or 30 min
utes or It will curdle and 'be spoiled.
, Meringue with Whipped Cream Fill
ing Whisk the whites of four eggs to
a very stiff froth. Great care should be
taken In separating the yolks from the
whites as the smallest portion of yellow
would spoil all chances of obtaining the
requisite Stiffness which is the secret of
a successful meringue Mix in quickly
and lightly with a wooden .spoon, half a
pound of granulated sujjar that hzs been
pounded almost to a powder. Cover the
bottom of a large flat pudding dish with
oiled paper and drop the meringue paste
on it. one tablespoonful at a time, so
that It forms an oblong shape the size
of an egg. When the paste is disposed
of in this way, dredge with powdered
sugar and place the tin in a moderately
hot oven. When done they should be a
pale fawn color. If the oven Is too slow
the mixture will spread and the shape
will be spoiled. After taking the me
ringues from the oven, carefully remove
the yoft paste from the Inside wth a
spoon. Return to the oven for a few
minutes to dry and then let them cool
on a sfeve. Filled with whipped cream
flavored with vanilla, the meringue makes
a most delicate and satisfying dessert.
Mousse of Apricots Stew half a pound
of apricots until they become a. very
soft pulp and pass through a sieve. To
each pint of pulp add the grated rind of
half a lemon, a teaspoonful of lemon
Juice, one teaspoonful of vanilla and half
a cup of hot cream. Dissolve one ounce
of gelatine in half a cup of hot cream,
add the sieved apricots. WThlp two cups
of sweet cream and add one teaspoonful
of ugar. Add to the gelatine mixture
beating all together lightly for a few mo
ments, and pour Into a fancy mold un
til cold and firm.
Brown Betty With Cider Sauc Pare
and cut six tart apples into quarters. Dry
four slices of bread in the oven and when
crisp break into small pieces. Cover the
bottom of a baking dish with a layer of
bread, then a layer of apples and dust
with granulated sugar. Continue these
layers, having the bread last. Cut one
tablespoonful of butter into small bits
and scatter them among the pieces ot
bread. Bake in a quiet oven for 30 min
utes. Cider Sauce Mix together one-half .pint
of sweet cider, one-half cup of sugar and
two tablespoonfuls of lemon Juice. Boll
for about three minutes until it begins
to thicken.
Solomon, Slightly Altered.
Atchison Globe.
A good. cook is. more to.be desired, than
Ereat!ricl-
Some Odd Trinkets Worn for Luck
JVJIDWAY between sentiment and su
I 1 pcrstitlon lies a feminine trait which
cherishes odd little trinkets that seem to
bring luck. That any Jeweled bauble can
possibly change the capricious whims of
Dame Fortune remains as always a
shadowy possibility. That a pleasant
memory attached to some small orna
ment can be constantly recalled by the
treasured trinket is without doubt. So
with divided affection, women still cling
to the savage luck charm as closely in
1S0S as did their barbaric sisters whose
calendar was the setting sun.
It Is with the most up-tb-datc business
women that one finds the most novel
trinkets. Actresses particularly wear un
usual luck ornaments and not the least
fetching of these is a gold chain which
never leaves the neck of a very pretty
leading woman In a favorite stock com
pany. Caught between the delicate links
at Intervals of two Inches are all sorts
of semi-precious stones as well as genu
ine gems.
Each Individual stone represents the
gift of some good friend who has been
associated with her in her stage career,
and the chain already holds twenty jewels
as well as a souvenir pendant gold and
enameled brownie with diamond eyes.
The different stones include a rare yel
low diamond and topaz, several oddly
shaped water pearls, and clasping the
chain at the back a large square garnet
of richest hue.
Then there is' a very popular ttacher
who has been at the head of a shorthand
school for a number of years. Her luck
souvenir is a coin waist belt made en
tirely of ten-cent pieces. It was started
by her first class of girls, everyone of
whom was devoted to her. When their
term was over, however, their very
meagre pocket books would allow the ma
jority of them to give only ten cents
"sL&tecc So .on of their .members con
ceived the happy idea of having the dimes
joined in the form of a bracelet, and each
girl's Initial was scratched on Liberty's
cap.
Ah class followed class, the idea took
root and the ten link bracelet has grown
to a good-sized waist belt with four rows
of coins. Some are thick and some are
thin and many bear hardly a resemblance
to the newly-mlntcd dime, but they all
carry the Initial of some young pupil to
whom the cheery teacher was an Inspira
tion, and the corns stand for everything
in the world to their owner. In fact, so
much a part of her has the belt become,
that she never thinks of going anywhere
without It, and she sleeps with it under
her pillow at night.
In contrast to this luck charm of friend
ship is the luck trinket of a very attrac
tive young matron. Five years ago, in
reply to her wedding Invitation, came a
tiny white kid box from a well-known
jeweler. It contained two beautiful fancy
gold stock pins, each a perfect Imitation
of a peacock feather. The card inclosed
bore the name of a girl with whom she
had the very slightest acquaintance.' but
whom she knew to have a liking for her
future husband.
Undaunted, the bride-to-be Immediately
pinned one of these unlucky feathers on
her dress, and from that day to this she
has never been without one or the other
of them fastened somewhere about her
costume. Not long since, when this very
happy matron received the wedding Invi
tation of her husband's one-time friend,
he suggested that his wife send a hund-somely-mounted
rabbit's foot as a pres
ent. She decided, however, that Fate had
been In the way of this jocular revenge.
Sisters of the 'Pope
Rosa, Maria and Anna Sarto, the sisters
of the Pope, continue to be the subjects
of much excusable curiosity and admira
tion in Rome. They live In a plain but
comfortable apartment over a store where
prayer-books, pictures, medals, rosaries
and like goods are sold. In a street close
to tho Vatican.
They live and dress very plainly, and
give all their time outside of household
duties to visiting the sick and poor In
hospitals and at their homes.
As sisters of the Pope they are entitled
to be called Countesses and have car
riages and servants and make and re
ceive calls among the aristocracy. ' But
tho Pope and they were one in refusing
the honor and all it entailed, and they are
a model to. the world of humble industry
and peaceful contentment. They are not
In "socleti."
The Sarto sisters have a telephone to
tho Vatican, for they go to see their
brother only by appointment.
"Do you see the holy father often?" I
asked Maria.
'Twice a week, on "Wednesdays and
Sundays, for half an hour or an hour."
I remember Rosa having told me of his
habit of looking at his watch when they
go to see him, often from stress of work
being obliged to hurry them off: She also
had Informed me that the report that tho
sisters dine with him once a week was
quite untrue.
" 'Santo Padre' or 'Sua Santita before
people, but 'Guiseppc always wL-.n wa
are alone with him."
On Sundays the sisters assist at tha
mass of the holy father: on other days
they go to mass at the Church of Santa
ilaria In Transpontlna. New Century.