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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 21, 1904)
&5 School Wear Shows No Marked Change of Style lSJ'1 .,.-.... . . . . , ..-.o. ...... . - .....,,.,.... ,,,,.,,,,.. ....-m - .no,-- ............ .n. . . SERGE REEFERS AND CRATENETTE RAIN COAT. KINDERGARTENERS AND THE BIGGER FRY ARE EQUALLY SMART. THE garments now "being made up for Autumn school wear display no marked changes in children's style?. The lines are virtually unaltered from those of the Summer, though many little improvements in cut and individual touches in trimming are encountered. Some of the color effects, too, of the hot season have been carried over, especially the black and white checks and bolder Slaids in the same combination, though, for that matter plaids in all colore will be worn by children, "with black band trim mings to give them distinction. Upon plain stuffs, wide and narrow tartan braids -will also be used. Of course, in getting up a practical Echool wardrobe,- the fundamentals are the first things to be considered. The every day suits for lad and lassie, stout boots, correct headgear and a wrap and rain coat, not forgetting overshoes for mud and snow, a neat umbrella and gloves of several thicknesses these are the first re quirements. And after they have been carefully chosen, for even the purchase of an umbrella requires thought, the dec orative element of the trousseaux may come in. Beginning with the wrap, which is real ly the first essential of a good Autumn outfit, the best ready-made styles are to be recommended as having some advan tages over garments made to order. For one thing, it can at once be seen if the style chosen is becoming to the child for whom It is intended. This Is an extremely important point, especially for ungainly and sensitive children, who are conscious of all their defects, and are made su premely wretched by any comment upon their appearance. So, for spindling maids and boys, in both suits and coats, a cer tain looseness otx fit Is suggested, with the coattails falling scarcely more than hip length. Pretty and practicable Autumn school coats for girls from 5 to 10 are the little reefers of serge, flannel and coatings so long worn. Such styles are again seen in great number, perfectly new models for the larger girls showing fancy braids, and sometimes skirls in the same texture. These last, which are excellent for rainy day use, are sometimes supplied with rib bon suspender straps, and made of double-. faced golf cloth In a light -weight Flan nel or wash shirtwaists will be worn with them, and the skirts, which are In the majority of cases only stitched, are for the most part made with a plain apron and pleated side breadths. With plaid gowns for the same ages, which have gamp or high bodies, the serge, gilt-but-. toned reefer may match a dominant line in the dress texture. So with plaids and checks in which red or blue prevails, the little coat "will often be in one of these shades, with a scarlet reefer and scarlet hat, perhaps, for-black and white. For elder girls school coats are longer, some three-quarter, some skirt length, and some in useful raglan or ulster length. The raincoats of cravenette and shower-proof silk for the missy ages are very swagger, and unless the cravenettes are palpably raincoats In style, they are sufficiently heavy for first Autumn wear. Those in the shower-proof silks are "grown-up" and plainly for bad weather. In rich automobile .reds and' blues, some of the loose, baggy models are supplied with attached automobile hoods, which give fhem quite a .worldly air. In gown textures, the tiny checks and larger plaids are without doubt the new est materials for any age above 7. The latest wools In them are more smooth than hairy, with some of the imported sorts almost as tightly woven as men's suiting. The-black and white designs, in whatever pattern chosen, are considered very smart and eminently suited to schoolgirl wear. Narrow pipings of -bright color are sometimes used with stylish ef fect upon these, especially if the costume is of a "flxy" description. But with plainer frocks, such as the Russian blouse styles worn by the smallest girls, only a belt and tie of color are admitted qoth In a flaming scarlet, maybe, and the cra vat tying under a high turnover linen collar. The high linen collars are enormously In vogue for both children and grown-ups. and,- after the somewhat negligee effects of the soft stocks, they seem very stylish. But as the unstiffened collars are more comfortable, as well as less damaging to the throat, It Is likely that more little frocks will be seen with . the easy stocks and neckbands than without them. Many of the more youthful and dressy of the little toilets are still made with gamp bodies. Gciwns for older girls are in variably high, necked, with smart collar effects and trimmed' skirts, though the latest child skirt is the plain apron and kilted model described. Such serge, flannel, tweed and cloth gowns as are trimmed employ simple gar nituresnarrow braids, ribbons and vel vets put on in the old Greek bands and graduating rows. The thinner stuffs, such as challie, cashmere, delaine,' eta, run mostly to self-trimmlnings, quillings and puffs, edged with black velvet or taffeta. The deckings are all taken from the 1830 period, which, it is claimed, will like wise lend Its high-crowned hats for missy's dressy headpiece. The elbow length sleeve for this time will also be seen for smart wear, puffed at the upper arm and ending with stiff quillings. This delightful arm covering has quite set aside the longer and heavier sdrts, and may run thraugh the entire "Winter. It will be worn by girls as young as 6, whose finest skirts will imitate with their robe fronts and trimmed side breadths other ancient qualntnesses. But children's styles are. In the most part, conventional, and as far as school clothes are conderned they seem scarce ly even new. School headgear Is espe cially familiar in. silhouette for girls will wear the fiat brim shapes with single ribbon and velvet bows, and boys tweed caps and felt alpines, scarcely diverging a thread from former styles. Only there is a tendency to thrust the derby for ward as the only possible dress for boys of any age. A new overcoat, which goes with this admirably, Is double-breasted and covers the knickers entirely. It Is called the Chesterfield. The most correct models in this style are of plain cloth In dark blue, brown or black, with matching lin ings, and a velvet collar. The Chester field is admired for boys from 7 to 10. Above these ages lads will often wear over their tweed knlcker suits ankle length ulsters of rough iron-gray serge. These will have the ulster strap at the back and be provided with storm collars to turn up as the occasion requires. In dressing the feet, a heavy and com fortably big look is the thing for children, for all of their every-day shoes hai-e ex tension soles. Laced calfskin boots, in almost exactly the same common-sense form, are worn by both boys and girls. Patent button boots with cloth uppers are dressier footwear, and, for smarter serv ice still, small girls have the tops of the same shoes in white kid. But in settling the school question it must be remembered that these faint gradings in style are not everything. A comfortable supply of fitting garments counts for far more. There should be suf ficient changes in dresses and suits to in sure neatness, and wraps of different weights to warrant comfort during the many changes peculiar to this climate. A variety of ties and other small accessories is also requisite for a good appearance, and a generous, even lavish, supply of handkerchiefs should be considered a ne cessity. Cunning and inexpensive handkerchiefs, which seem to please the kindergarten ers Immensely, have narrow borders pat terned with brownies In color. Bigger boys sport handkerchiefs bordered with bulldog and horse heads, but, fortunate ly for the esthetic eye, their .shirtings are more daintily patterned. Collars and cuffs in a solid color sometimes orna ment a shirt in delicate hair lines or fig ures. MARY DEAN. Keturn of the Girl Feminine: The Family Dorcas She Is the Up-to-Date Young Lady Who Delights in Doing the Family Sewing. THE return of the girl feminine in the guise of the family Dorcas is a physical expression of the mental tide -which has set in for the garment stamped "made for you." The ready-made garment is no longer in vogue, hence the revival of Miss Dor cas in all her former charm. The family Dorcas has discovered lhat the secret of tailored effects lie3 in the finish. She selects a reliable pat tern, fits the dress carefully and has the stitching ahd pressing done by the tailor on the next block. But the "blouse more than any one article of feminine dress is responsible for the Important position in the family now occupied "by Miss Dorcas. The ready-to-wear blouse at a reasonable figure Is not satisfying to the American girl's love of daintiness. Many a young business woman has stopped in front of a shop window and gazed longingly, almost tearfully, at a $25 blouse, In the realization that if she only had the time she could do handwork fully as fine herself. In fact, not only -would her handwork be as dainty and ar tistic, but the seams of the blouse would he better sewn and the small final touches, such as hooks and eyes and catches, -would be more secure. The girl -who is bright, naturally artistic in designing and making color combinations, and who has also a nat ural bent for sewing, will really do well If she takes in her family the position of general dressmaker. One young woman has made a bargain with her two sisters, -who work down town, and -with her mother, who is ao tively' engaged in club and social du ties. She has taken entire charge of the family sewing for a considera tion and she goes at it in as business like a fashion as any modiste, who swings to the breeze the sign "Robes et Manteaux." She designs, buys and makes every gown worn by the -women of her family, and she makes just as good an income as either of her business-like sisters, and has easier hours. At first this happy condition did not prevail, because she did. not understand how to manage her work. She allowed herself to become nervous, and for many weeks her hours were too long. She sat. up late at night to finish off bits of work that could very well wait another day, and she ac quired a case of indigestion. Now she sews systematically and regularly. As a rule she goes down town twice a week, and is at the shops when the doors open. During what is known as her rush season she has a girl to help her with the stitching and finishing. So well has she system atized her work that she Is able to attend an occasional afternoon func tion or concert even in the busiest sea son. Her sewing-room Is on the top floor of their old-fashioned house, and a skylight which cost $50 was the fath er's gift to the enterprise, which, man like, he heartily approved. The bare floor is oiled and the wall is covered with a soft green paper restful to the eyes. In "Winter she has a thick jute rug on the floor, but in Summer she prefers no covering at alL The most important article of fur niture in this room is a discarded book case of the old-fashioned sort, with glass doors. Arranged on its shelves are dressmaking supplies, linings of all sorts, bindings, featherbone, and the different trifles that go to make up a well-ordered dressmaker's stock of supplies. On the top shelf, in compact rolls, ar8 kept pieces of the gowns made up, so that if renairs are needed she can easily lay her hands on a scrap of the goods. In the two draw ers on which the glass bookcase stands are kept button boxes, threads of all kinds, hooks and eyes, and other small articles. Another useful article of furniture for the family Dorcas Is a circular coat and suit rack with projecting arms, such as can be seen in any suit department in a big store. From this she hangs Individual coat racks carrying dresses under way or, gowns laid up for repairs. It Is rather high, preventing the gowns from drag ging and gathering dust. To further protect them she has a balloon-shaped cloth of unbleached muslin which fits over them, stand and all, at night. Tills does away with the practice of laying a half-finished garment in mussy condi tion on a table or bed. A device which economizes strength and nervous force is a drop-leaf at tached to the back of her sewing ma chine. This leaf can be raised when she has a large, heavy piece of stitching to do, and saves her the effort of support ing as well as guiding the goods. Every home dressmaker knows the strength required to hold a heavy dress skirt in place during the stitching pro cess. Another attachment for the machine which is comforting in hot weather is a small fan designed after the fashion of electric fans. It is operated by the mechanism of the machine, and as the wheel revolves so does the fan, sending grateful breezes toward the sewer. Every woman, who has knelt on the floor to cut out garments, or struggled to keep her pattern straight on the soft foundation of a bed, will appreciate the cutting table which this family Dorcas has made for a trifle over a doller. It is merely a pair of broad, planed boards riveted together and set firmly on a pair of supporters, or horses, such as paper hangers use." Like the paperhanger's table. It is built rather high, so that Miss Dorcas does not stoop to the Injury of her figure and her health when she is cutting a garment. A cutting or basting table of smaller dimensions, which 3he uses when seated,, was the gift of her two sisters last Christmas. Instead of the ordinary foiling sewing table with folding legs, this pretty mahogany rests on a brass stand and turns up and down when not In use like the inlaid card tables. It is a good Imitation of mahogany and has the yard measure marked off on it. An adjustable skirt form for draping and hanging skirts, and a bust form for draping blouses, arranging trimmings, etc., are other" essential features of her equipment. It is amazing, the number of pretty little gifts this fair Dorcas has received since her hobby has become known among her friends. An observing young man sent her a pair of buttonhole scissors with the regulation adjustment screw and handles of gold Inlaid with mother-of-pearl. She has two gold thimbles, and one of her girl friends last Christmas sent her a little box filled with glove threads. Her sisters had never known before that silk thread cuts kid and that glove threads can be bought to match every fashionable color In gloves. Miss Dorcas has brought to bear on her work a degree of intelligence which makes it pleasant and easy. She never fails to visit the notion counters regularly and to keep in touch -with all the Innovations which simplify the dressmaker's work. She keeps in stock petticoat yokes -which fit the various -women in her family. These have three buttons and button holes in the back and are fully as good as anything which can be made at home. For wash shirtwaists she buys the regulation neck bands, kept in stock by haberdashers for. men's shirts. ; This particular Dorcas took a course of Jessons in cutting and fli tlng, for which her father paid, saying that she had as much right to a train ing for this work as her sister, who is a stenographer, had to hef course at the business college. Many girls are "born dressmakers" and succeed without a course of training, but the latter gives a sense of security. Miss Dorcas has been urged by her friends to enlarge the scope of her -work, and make frocks and furbelows for women outside the family circle, but for her health's sake she clings to her original purpose and sews for the family only. She has no desire to succumb to the nervous strain which comes with the dressmaker's shop and Its scores of apprentices. Her sewing-room is a pleasure' as well as a business office. Flowers bloom at the windows. A few attrac tive prints are on the wall. An easy couch on one side of the room, which, when raised, shows a deep cavity for holding materials. It Is supplemented by several comfortable chairs, for Miss Dorcas' friends have learned to drop in for a social chat and do not expect their busy hostess to stop her work because of their coming. Few parents could withstand the pleadings of a Dorcas for such a room as this. Aside from the excellent training it affords the girl, the family saves that Item on the dressmaker's bill which reads "Findings, $ ." For it is on the findings that the dressmaker makes and her patron loses. Such a room is a rare incentive to work, and many a girl who struggles almost tearfully with the family sew ing in narrow quarters called sewing rooms would do better work and do it gladly and cheerfully in harmonious surroundings. ANNA S. RICHARDSON. The Extravagances of Rainy-Day Toggery - THE FAMILY DOE CAS WELL SAVE HER RELATIVES X ANY A DRESSMAKER'S BELL, THE girl of the hour pays almost as much for her rainy day outfit as for her ball gown. In fact, a thoroughly up-to-date equipment of rainy day toggery Is one of the most extravagant Items of a woman's wardrobe. The efforts of manu facturers to get away from the odorous, heavy materials connected In the past with waterproof garments has resulted In some fabric marvels, but they are exceed ingly high-priced. Last year the height of comfort in rainy day fabrics seemed to have been reached in light-weight cravenette. This year a silk rubber clothT not much heav ier than a good quality of taffetas, Is the correct thing for rainy day coats. It comes In pure white, and in th" most bril liant colors, such as blue, green and red, and in the more quiet browns, olives and tans and In plaids. Rainy day coats fol low very much the lines of automobile wraps, and seem almost too long and sweeping for street use. An English model in a. fine blue rubber silk has a very large sleeve with a turn back cuff, a deep shoulder cape and a high military collar. On the cuffs, cape and collar are appliques of lighter blue silk edged with black braid shot with gold, and It Is fastened down the front with large gold buttons. This coat has a decided dip In the back, and Is best suit ed to motoring In stormy weather. A much more sensible model for the woman who walks Is the three-quarter Inverness cloak In fawn-color rubber cloth. It has two deep capes, the longer one coming to the knuckles when the hand hangs straight at the side. The sec ond cape just covers the shoulders, and the turn-over military collar Is very high. Down the front of the coat are straps or tabs of the rubber cloth, piped with crim son silk and buttoned across with brass cabochon. The cape and coat throughout are lined with crimson ailk to match the piping. The number of Ivory white silk rubber coats shown Is simply amazing. Some of them are lined with pale blue or pink, and look fit to wear over evening clothes only. Others are piped with black and have appliques of black silk and braid on the capes. These will be much worn on the street In large cities this Winter, and they are less perishable than they seem, as they can be easily cleaned with a sponge and tepid water. Business women who expect to be on the street a great deal In rainy weather and girls who go In or golfing, no matter what the weather, aro having shirtwaist suits made from cravenette. These are very expensive, but they give the effect of a Norfolk jacket and are exceedingly trim for Fall wear. They are finished simply with buttons covered with cloth to match that used in the dress. Hats of the cravenette cloth are made to or der on the lines of the white duck naval reserve hats so popular,. In Summer. In the new cravenette coats both belt and shirred models are seen, and the waist line Is clearly defined. Brass but tons are used very generally on these coats. A tan-colored garment had two rows of brass buttons from collar to hem in the front, two rows of smaller but tons on the sleeve and the enormous buttons on the girdle In the back. Heavy cravenettes In elaborate designs are be ing offered as Winter coats to be worn with furs. They are exceedingly warm. "Women who prefer to face a light shower clad In a cravenette suit or coat, without the additional bother of an um brella, have also a rainy day hat. A fine quality of felt In a broad brimmed alpine shape with a silk scarf in neutral tint is preferred. "Umbrellas come in colors to match all the new waterproof cloths. In plain silks and plaids. The woman who doesn't feel that she can afford to own several um brellas, and "has a good black one In stock, has a case made to match her rainy day dress or coat. But in the new umbrellas the smartest modes are shown in such colors as gneen, blue, brown and dark red. Carved wood handles showing grotesque animals and quaintly carved bits of ivory are popu lar. The rage for mother-of-pearl set ting has disappeared entirely. The question of footwear Is always a vexed one with the rainy day girl. She utterly despises overshoes, yet her shoes are not built on lines or from materials to shed water. The nearest approach to the rubberless rainy day3 shoe Is a heavy calf-skin boot made with rubber shoes. For the Cuban or Spanish-heeled shoes rubbers now come with specially deep dents for heels, but the girl who wears French heels must content herself with sandals. With the advent of heavy walking boots for women the storm rub ber has practically disappeared. Both white and gray overshoes aro offered, this season to correspond with the light colored footwear, but there Is not much demand for them. Supplication. Anna Laetltla "Waring. Father, I know that all my life Is portioned out for me. And the changes that will surely coma I do not fear to see; But I ask Thee for a present mind Intent on pleasing Thee. I ask Thee for a thoughtful love. Through constant watching wiso. To meet the glad with joyful smiles. And to wipe the weeping eyes; And a heart at leisure from Itself, To soothe and sympathize. I would not have the restless will That hurries to and fro, Seeking for some great thing to do. Or secret thing- to know; I would be treated as a child. And guided where I go. "Wherever In the world I am. In whatsoe'er estate. I have a fellowship with hearts To keep and cultivate; And a work of lowly love to do, "For the Lord on whom I wait. Bo I ask Thee for the dally strength, To none that ask denied. And a mind to blend with outward life, "While keeping at Thy side; Content to all a little space. If Thou be glorified. Miss Elderlelgh I see by the papers that the craze for thfe antique is dying out. Mls3 Young Yea, dear; but I hope for your sake that It will last through leap year at least. Chicago Daily News, t
