&5
School Wear Shows No Marked Change of Style lSJ'1
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SERGE REEFERS AND CRATENETTE RAIN COAT.
KINDERGARTENERS AND THE BIGGER FRY ARE EQUALLY SMART.
THE garments now "being made up for
Autumn school wear display no
marked changes in children's style?.
The lines are virtually unaltered from
those of the Summer, though many little
improvements in cut and individual
touches in trimming are encountered.
Some of the color effects, too, of the hot
season have been carried over, especially
the black and white checks and bolder
Slaids in the same combination, though,
for that matter plaids in all colore will be
worn by children, "with black band trim
mings to give them distinction. Upon
plain stuffs, wide and narrow tartan
braids -will also be used.
Of course, in getting up a practical
Echool wardrobe,- the fundamentals are the
first things to be considered. The every
day suits for lad and lassie, stout boots,
correct headgear and a wrap and rain
coat, not forgetting overshoes for mud
and snow, a neat umbrella and gloves of
several thicknesses these are the first re
quirements. And after they have been
carefully chosen, for even the purchase
of an umbrella requires thought, the dec
orative element of the trousseaux may
come in.
Beginning with the wrap, which is real
ly the first essential of a good Autumn
outfit, the best ready-made styles are to
be recommended as having some advan
tages over garments made to order. For
one thing, it can at once be seen if the
style chosen is becoming to the child for
whom It is intended. This Is an extremely
important point, especially for ungainly
and sensitive children, who are conscious
of all their defects, and are made su
premely wretched by any comment upon
their appearance. So, for spindling maids
and boys, in both suits and coats, a cer
tain looseness otx fit Is suggested, with
the coattails falling scarcely more than
hip length.
Pretty and practicable Autumn school
coats for girls from 5 to 10 are the little
reefers of serge, flannel and coatings so
long worn. Such styles are again seen
in great number, perfectly new models
for the larger girls showing fancy braids,
and sometimes skirls in the same texture.
These last, which are excellent for rainy
day use, are sometimes supplied with rib
bon suspender straps, and made of double-.
faced golf cloth In a light -weight Flan
nel or wash shirtwaists will be worn with
them, and the skirts, which are In the
majority of cases only stitched, are for
the most part made with a plain apron
and pleated side breadths. With plaid
gowns for the same ages, which have
gamp or high bodies, the serge, gilt-but-.
toned reefer may match a dominant line
in the dress texture. So with plaids and
checks in which red or blue prevails, the
little coat "will often be in one of these
shades, with a scarlet reefer and scarlet
hat, perhaps, for-black and white.
For elder girls school coats are longer,
some three-quarter, some skirt length,
and some in useful raglan or ulster
length. The raincoats of cravenette and
shower-proof silk for the missy ages are
very swagger, and unless the cravenettes
are palpably raincoats In style, they are
sufficiently heavy for first Autumn wear.
Those in the shower-proof silks are
"grown-up" and plainly for bad weather.
In rich automobile .reds and' blues, some
of the loose, baggy models are supplied
with attached automobile hoods, which
give fhem quite a .worldly air.
In gown textures, the tiny checks and
larger plaids are without doubt the new
est materials for any age above 7. The
latest wools In them are more smooth
than hairy, with some of the imported
sorts almost as tightly woven as men's
suiting. The-black and white designs, in
whatever pattern chosen, are considered
very smart and eminently suited to
schoolgirl wear. Narrow pipings of -bright
color are sometimes used with stylish ef
fect upon these, especially if the costume
is of a "flxy" description. But with
plainer frocks, such as the Russian blouse
styles worn by the smallest girls, only
a belt and tie of color are admitted qoth
In a flaming scarlet, maybe, and the cra
vat tying under a high turnover linen
collar.
The high linen collars are enormously
In vogue for both children and grown-ups.
and,- after the somewhat negligee effects
of the soft stocks, they seem very stylish.
But as the unstiffened collars are more
comfortable, as well as less damaging to
the throat, It Is likely that more little
frocks will be seen with . the easy stocks
and neckbands than without them. Many
of the more youthful and dressy of the
little toilets are still made with gamp
bodies. Gciwns for older girls are in
variably high, necked, with smart collar
effects and trimmed' skirts, though the
latest child skirt is the plain apron and
kilted model described.
Such serge, flannel, tweed and cloth
gowns as are trimmed employ simple gar
nituresnarrow braids, ribbons and vel
vets put on in the old Greek bands and
graduating rows. The thinner stuffs, such
as challie, cashmere, delaine,' eta, run
mostly to self-trimmlnings, quillings and
puffs, edged with black velvet or taffeta.
The deckings are all taken from the
1830 period, which, it is claimed, will like
wise lend Its high-crowned hats for
missy's dressy headpiece. The elbow
length sleeve for this time will also be
seen for smart wear, puffed at the upper
arm and ending with stiff quillings. This
delightful arm covering has quite set
aside the longer and heavier sdrts, and
may run thraugh the entire "Winter. It
will be worn by girls as young as 6,
whose finest skirts will imitate with their
robe fronts and trimmed side breadths
other ancient qualntnesses.
But children's styles are. In the most
part, conventional, and as far as school
clothes are conderned they seem scarce
ly even new. School headgear Is espe
cially familiar in. silhouette for girls will
wear the fiat brim shapes with single
ribbon and velvet bows, and boys tweed
caps and felt alpines, scarcely diverging
a thread from former styles. Only there
is a tendency to thrust the derby for
ward as the only possible dress for boys
of any age.
A new overcoat, which goes with this
admirably, Is double-breasted and covers
the knickers entirely. It Is called the
Chesterfield. The most correct models
in this style are of plain cloth In dark
blue, brown or black, with matching lin
ings, and a velvet collar. The Chester
field is admired for boys from 7 to 10.
Above these ages lads will often wear
over their tweed knlcker suits ankle
length ulsters of rough iron-gray serge.
These will have the ulster strap at the
back and be provided with storm collars
to turn up as the occasion requires.
In dressing the feet, a heavy and com
fortably big look is the thing for children,
for all of their every-day shoes hai-e ex
tension soles. Laced calfskin boots, in
almost exactly the same common-sense
form, are worn by both boys and girls.
Patent button boots with cloth uppers are
dressier footwear, and, for smarter serv
ice still, small girls have the tops of the
same shoes in white kid.
But in settling the school question it
must be remembered that these faint
gradings in style are not everything. A
comfortable supply of fitting garments
counts for far more. There should be suf
ficient changes in dresses and suits to in
sure neatness, and wraps of different
weights to warrant comfort during the
many changes peculiar to this climate. A
variety of ties and other small accessories
is also requisite for a good appearance,
and a generous, even lavish, supply of
handkerchiefs should be considered a ne
cessity. Cunning and inexpensive handkerchiefs,
which seem to please the kindergarten
ers Immensely, have narrow borders pat
terned with brownies In color. Bigger
boys sport handkerchiefs bordered with
bulldog and horse heads, but, fortunate
ly for the esthetic eye, their .shirtings
are more daintily patterned. Collars and
cuffs in a solid color sometimes orna
ment a shirt in delicate hair lines or fig
ures. MARY DEAN.
Keturn of the Girl Feminine: The Family Dorcas
She Is the Up-to-Date Young Lady Who Delights in
Doing the Family Sewing.
THE return of the girl feminine in
the guise of the family Dorcas is
a physical expression of the
mental tide -which has set in for the
garment stamped "made for you." The
ready-made garment is no longer in
vogue, hence the revival of Miss Dor
cas in all her former charm.
The family Dorcas has discovered
lhat the secret of tailored effects lie3
in the finish. She selects a reliable pat
tern, fits the dress carefully and has
the stitching ahd pressing done by the
tailor on the next block. But the
"blouse more than any one article of
feminine dress is responsible for the
Important position in the family now
occupied "by Miss Dorcas. The ready-to-wear
blouse at a reasonable figure
Is not satisfying to the American
girl's love of daintiness. Many a young
business woman has stopped in front
of a shop window and gazed longingly,
almost tearfully, at a $25 blouse, In
the realization that if she only had
the time she could do handwork fully
as fine herself. In fact, not only -would
her handwork be as dainty and ar
tistic, but the seams of the blouse would
he better sewn and the small final
touches, such as hooks and eyes and
catches, -would be more secure.
The girl -who is bright, naturally
artistic in designing and making color
combinations, and who has also a nat
ural bent for sewing, will really do
well If she takes in her family the
position of general dressmaker. One
young woman has made a bargain
with her two sisters, -who work down
town, and -with her mother, who is ao
tively' engaged in club and social du
ties. She has taken entire charge of
the family sewing for a considera
tion and she goes at it in as business
like a fashion as any modiste, who
swings to the breeze the sign "Robes
et Manteaux." She designs, buys and
makes every gown worn by the -women
of her family, and she makes just
as good an income as either of her
business-like sisters, and has easier
hours. At first this happy condition
did not prevail, because she did. not
understand how to manage her work.
She allowed herself to become nervous,
and for many weeks her hours were
too long. She sat. up late at night to
finish off bits of work that could very
well wait another day, and she ac
quired a case of indigestion.
Now she sews systematically and
regularly. As a rule she goes down
town twice a week, and is at the shops
when the doors open. During what is
known as her rush season she has a
girl to help her with the stitching and
finishing. So well has she system
atized her work that she Is able to
attend an occasional afternoon func
tion or concert even in the busiest sea
son. Her sewing-room Is on the top
floor of their old-fashioned house, and
a skylight which cost $50 was the fath
er's gift to the enterprise, which, man
like, he heartily approved. The bare
floor is oiled and the wall is covered
with a soft green paper restful to the
eyes. In "Winter she has a thick jute
rug on the floor, but in Summer she
prefers no covering at alL
The most important article of fur
niture in this room is a discarded book
case of the old-fashioned sort, with
glass doors. Arranged on its shelves
are dressmaking supplies, linings of all
sorts, bindings, featherbone, and the
different trifles that go to make up a
well-ordered dressmaker's stock of
supplies. On the top shelf, in compact
rolls, ar8 kept pieces of the gowns
made up, so that if renairs are needed
she can easily lay her hands on a
scrap of the goods. In the two draw
ers on which the glass bookcase stands
are kept button boxes, threads of all
kinds, hooks and eyes, and other small
articles.
Another useful article of furniture for
the family Dorcas Is a circular coat and
suit rack with projecting arms, such as
can be seen in any suit department in a
big store. From this she hangs Individual
coat racks carrying dresses under way
or, gowns laid up for repairs. It Is rather
high, preventing the gowns from drag
ging and gathering dust. To further
protect them she has a balloon-shaped
cloth of unbleached muslin which fits
over them, stand and all, at night. Tills
does away with the practice of laying
a half-finished garment in mussy condi
tion on a table or bed.
A device which economizes strength
and nervous force is a drop-leaf at
tached to the back of her sewing ma
chine. This leaf can be raised when she
has a large, heavy piece of stitching to
do, and saves her the effort of support
ing as well as guiding the goods.
Every home dressmaker knows the
strength required to hold a heavy dress
skirt in place during the stitching pro
cess. Another attachment for the machine
which is comforting in hot weather is a
small fan designed after the fashion of
electric fans. It is operated by the
mechanism of the machine, and as the
wheel revolves so does the fan, sending
grateful breezes toward the sewer.
Every woman, who has knelt on the
floor to cut out garments, or struggled
to keep her pattern straight on the soft
foundation of a bed, will appreciate the
cutting table which this family Dorcas
has made for a trifle over a doller. It is
merely a pair of broad, planed boards
riveted together and set firmly on a pair
of supporters, or horses, such as paper
hangers use." Like the paperhanger's
table. It is built rather high, so that Miss
Dorcas does not stoop to the Injury of
her figure and her health when she is
cutting a garment.
A cutting or basting table of smaller
dimensions, which 3he uses when seated,,
was the gift of her two sisters last
Christmas. Instead of the ordinary
foiling sewing table with folding legs,
this pretty mahogany rests on a brass
stand and turns up and down when not
In use like the inlaid card tables. It is
a good Imitation of mahogany and has
the yard measure marked off on it.
An adjustable skirt form for draping
and hanging skirts, and a bust form for
draping blouses, arranging trimmings,
etc., are other" essential features of her
equipment.
It is amazing, the number of pretty little
gifts this fair Dorcas has received since
her hobby has become known among her
friends. An observing young man sent
her a pair of buttonhole scissors with the
regulation adjustment screw and handles
of gold Inlaid with mother-of-pearl. She
has two gold thimbles, and one of her
girl friends last Christmas sent her a
little box filled with glove threads. Her
sisters had never known before that silk
thread cuts kid and that glove threads can
be bought to match every fashionable
color In gloves.
Miss Dorcas has brought to bear
on her work a degree of intelligence
which makes it pleasant and easy.
She never fails to visit the notion
counters regularly and to keep in
touch -with all the Innovations which
simplify the dressmaker's work. She
keeps in stock petticoat yokes -which
fit the various -women in her family.
These have three buttons and button
holes in the back and are fully as
good as anything which can be made
at home. For wash shirtwaists she
buys the regulation neck bands, kept
in stock by haberdashers for. men's
shirts. ;
This particular Dorcas took a
course of Jessons in cutting and fli
tlng, for which her father paid, saying
that she had as much right to a train
ing for this work as her sister, who
is a stenographer, had to hef course
at the business college. Many girls
are "born dressmakers" and succeed
without a course of training, but the
latter gives a sense of security.
Miss Dorcas has been urged by her
friends to enlarge the scope of her
-work, and make frocks and furbelows
for women outside the family circle,
but for her health's sake she clings
to her original purpose and sews for
the family only. She has no desire
to succumb to the nervous strain which
comes with the dressmaker's shop and
Its scores of apprentices.
Her sewing-room is a pleasure' as
well as a business office. Flowers
bloom at the windows. A few attrac
tive prints are on the wall. An easy
couch on one side of the room, which,
when raised, shows a deep cavity for
holding materials. It Is supplemented
by several comfortable chairs, for Miss
Dorcas' friends have learned to drop
in for a social chat and do not expect
their busy hostess to stop her work
because of their coming. Few parents
could withstand the pleadings of a
Dorcas for such a room as this.
Aside from the excellent training it
affords the girl, the family saves that
Item on the dressmaker's bill which
reads "Findings, $ ." For it is on
the findings that the dressmaker makes
and her patron loses.
Such a room is a rare incentive to
work, and many a girl who struggles
almost tearfully with the family sew
ing in narrow quarters called sewing
rooms would do better work and do it
gladly and cheerfully in harmonious
surroundings.
ANNA S. RICHARDSON.
The Extravagances of Rainy-Day Toggery
- THE FAMILY DOE CAS WELL SAVE HER RELATIVES X ANY A DRESSMAKER'S BELL,
THE girl of the hour pays almost as
much for her rainy day outfit as for
her ball gown. In fact, a thoroughly up-to-date
equipment of rainy day toggery Is
one of the most extravagant Items of a
woman's wardrobe. The efforts of manu
facturers to get away from the odorous,
heavy materials connected In the past
with waterproof garments has resulted In
some fabric marvels, but they are exceed
ingly high-priced.
Last year the height of comfort in
rainy day fabrics seemed to have been
reached in light-weight cravenette. This
year a silk rubber clothT not much heav
ier than a good quality of taffetas, Is the
correct thing for rainy day coats. It
comes In pure white, and in th" most bril
liant colors, such as blue, green and red,
and in the more quiet browns, olives and
tans and In plaids. Rainy day coats fol
low very much the lines of automobile
wraps, and seem almost too long and
sweeping for street use.
An English model in a. fine blue rubber
silk has a very large sleeve with a turn
back cuff, a deep shoulder cape and a
high military collar. On the cuffs, cape
and collar are appliques of lighter blue
silk edged with black braid shot with
gold, and It Is fastened down the front
with large gold buttons. This coat has
a decided dip In the back, and Is best suit
ed to motoring In stormy weather.
A much more sensible model for the
woman who walks Is the three-quarter
Inverness cloak In fawn-color rubber
cloth. It has two deep capes, the longer
one coming to the knuckles when the
hand hangs straight at the side. The sec
ond cape just covers the shoulders, and
the turn-over military collar Is very high.
Down the front of the coat are straps or
tabs of the rubber cloth, piped with crim
son silk and buttoned across with brass
cabochon. The cape and coat throughout
are lined with crimson ailk to match the
piping.
The number of Ivory white silk rubber
coats shown Is simply amazing. Some of
them are lined with pale blue or pink, and
look fit to wear over evening clothes
only. Others are piped with black and
have appliques of black silk and braid on
the capes. These will be much worn on
the street In large cities this Winter, and
they are less perishable than they seem,
as they can be easily cleaned with a
sponge and tepid water.
Business women who expect to be on
the street a great deal In rainy weather
and girls who go In or golfing, no matter
what the weather, aro having shirtwaist
suits made from cravenette. These are
very expensive, but they give the effect
of a Norfolk jacket and are exceedingly
trim for Fall wear. They are finished
simply with buttons covered with cloth
to match that used in the dress. Hats
of the cravenette cloth are made to or
der on the lines of the white duck naval
reserve hats so popular,. In Summer.
In the new cravenette coats both belt
and shirred models are seen, and the
waist line Is clearly defined. Brass but
tons are used very generally on these
coats. A tan-colored garment had two
rows of brass buttons from collar to hem
in the front, two rows of smaller but
tons on the sleeve and the enormous
buttons on the girdle In the back. Heavy
cravenettes In elaborate designs are be
ing offered as Winter coats to be worn
with furs. They are exceedingly warm.
"Women who prefer to face a light
shower clad In a cravenette suit or coat,
without the additional bother of an um
brella, have also a rainy day hat. A fine
quality of felt In a broad brimmed alpine
shape with a silk scarf in neutral tint
is preferred.
"Umbrellas come in colors to match all
the new waterproof cloths. In plain silks
and plaids. The woman who doesn't feel
that she can afford to own several um
brellas, and "has a good black one In
stock, has a case made to match her
rainy day dress or coat. But in the
new umbrellas the smartest modes are
shown in such colors as gneen, blue,
brown and dark red. Carved wood
handles showing grotesque animals and
quaintly carved bits of ivory are popu
lar. The rage for mother-of-pearl set
ting has disappeared entirely.
The question of footwear Is always a
vexed one with the rainy day girl. She
utterly despises overshoes, yet her shoes
are not built on lines or from materials
to shed water. The nearest approach to
the rubberless rainy day3 shoe Is a heavy
calf-skin boot made with rubber shoes.
For the Cuban or Spanish-heeled shoes
rubbers now come with specially deep
dents for heels, but the girl who wears
French heels must content herself with
sandals. With the advent of heavy
walking boots for women the storm rub
ber has practically disappeared. Both
white and gray overshoes aro offered,
this season to correspond with the light
colored footwear, but there Is not much
demand for them.
Supplication.
Anna Laetltla "Waring.
Father, I know that all my life
Is portioned out for me.
And the changes that will surely coma
I do not fear to see;
But I ask Thee for a present mind
Intent on pleasing Thee.
I ask Thee for a thoughtful love.
Through constant watching wiso.
To meet the glad with joyful smiles.
And to wipe the weeping eyes;
And a heart at leisure from Itself,
To soothe and sympathize.
I would not have the restless will
That hurries to and fro,
Seeking for some great thing to do.
Or secret thing- to know;
I would be treated as a child.
And guided where I go.
"Wherever In the world I am.
In whatsoe'er estate.
I have a fellowship with hearts
To keep and cultivate;
And a work of lowly love to do,
"For the Lord on whom I wait.
Bo I ask Thee for the dally strength,
To none that ask denied.
And a mind to blend with outward life,
"While keeping at Thy side;
Content to all a little space.
If Thou be glorified.
Miss Elderlelgh I see by the papers that
the craze for thfe antique is dying out. Mls3
Young Yea, dear; but I hope for your sake
that It will last through leap year at least.
Chicago Daily News,
t