The Sunday Oregonian., August 21, 1904, PART FOUR, Page 34, Image 34

3
Delicate
liESSED Is that woman who, through
.much girlish tribulation,' learned to
wield a deft needle. For now truly
has she passed through a tear-washed ap
prenticeship to a position of authority
among her kind- If she fan array her
eelf in a frock laden with hand-run tucks,
insets whose junction with the fabric de
fies the sharpest eyes of her dearest
enemy, and ruchings that crimp entic
ingly, she is envied of her sex and detested-
of dressmakers who are reaping
fabulous prices for handwork and noth
ing but handwork.
The fashion cf the gown counts less
and less as the days roll round. A well
fitting lining Is, of course, essential to
secure a well-hanging garment, and after
that little else counts, so complete are
lines and seams hidden by masses of
needlework. Sleeves may puff at the
shoulder or over the wrist, bodices may
blouse at the waistline or sway in bouf
fant lines around the shoulders. All is
well so long as there be tucks upon
tucks, lace applied upon chiffon or even
lace upon lace, and the shadow of the
sewing machine hang not over the gar
ment at all.
The woman who imagines that she can
Summer Breakfasts Ideal Functions
This Odd Hour for Entertaining: Finds Favor With Host as "Well as Guest.
REAKFAST, formal or informal, is
a Summer function to be considered
with respect by the would-be host
ess. As a break In the interminable round
of afternoon teas, garden parties and
porch parties, it is a decided relief and
particularly among Summer loiterers It is
accepted with enthusiasm.
In the larger cities Sunday morning
breakfasts have been counted among the
most pleasing functions of the "Winter,
to which only intimate friends are in
vited, and this Summer there have been
more morning entertainments than ever
before in suburban history. Eleven o'clock
is the preferred formal breakfast hour,
hut in Summer, when even the most fash
ionable folk are astir early. It Is a mov
able feast, varying from 9 until 11.
If the hostess has a large, secluded
porch, .the breakfast may be- served there,
or. If the dlnlngroom Is used, the guests
then adjourn to the porch for the final
cup of coffee.
The breakfast table is set forth in sim
ple fashion, the bare, polished wood being
preferred to any cloth, no matter how
beautiful the weave. Elaborate favors,
candelabra" and all other paraphernalia
of the formal dinner are distinctly out
of place on the breakfast table. The cen
terpiece should be of pure white linen,
showing an open work pattern. If a low
mound of flowers Is used, there is noth
ing more effective at this season of the
year than wild flowers and ferns. If a
high centerpiece Is desired, roses or
gladioli may be used, but they must be
long-etemmed and absolutely fresh. If
sprinkled just before breakfast is serv
ed they will carry the suggestion of dewy
morning.
At each place Is a plate doiley matching,
if possible, the centerpiece. There must
be also a smaller doiley for the bread-and-butter
plate, and a smaller one still
for the glass. A napkin and fork are
placed to the left of the plate doiley, a
knife, a dessert spoon and two teaspoons
at the right. If the table is rather long
and the guests number eight or more,
at the head and foot of the table may
he placed dishes of fruit garnished .with
crisp, fresh leaves. Tnere is a great
fancy this year for low fruit dishes
with handles in the center, in the bright-
hued glazed English ware. If this ware
is used the water pitcher should match It.
There is also a tendency toward the
Handwork
come back to town and have a few In
teresting sessions with her modiste over
a few little simple costumes Is laying up
trouble for herself and the modiste. There
will be no "simple little things" this
season that Is, for the woman who is
ambitious to appear smart. Aside from
the strictly tailored garment, everything,
from tea-gowns or negligee to balldress,
will be buried in needlework. And the
thinner the fabric the more ornate Its
treatment.
Consider a so-called simple frock of
silky white net wnose lines are quite de
mure and whose color combination, black
and white, would suggest the "country
mouse" type of woman. The foundation
is white glace silk of the most supple
weave, such as moussaline. The skirt
measures more than five yards round the
foot, and a shallow band of hair cloth
is set into the hem of the drop-skirt to
Insure that slight "flou" effect which is
essential In the frock of the hour.
Presumably the gown is of net, but
it is a real case of lfi to 116 yards of
lace to one of net The net appears in
the skirt in two sets of hand-run shlrr
ings, to the lower of which is attached
a flouncing, or rather an inset of repousse
use of .the small individual salt-cellars
of cut glass. If these are not used, then
there should be placed at frequent inter
vals salt and pepper shakers in pairs,
wun a small lndlvloual bowl ror pulver
ized eugar.
On the plate doiley Is a fruit plate,
and on top of this si smaller plate cover
ed with n rtnllv nn toVi!Vi mtn tho flncr-
bowl and fruit knife. It is a pretty fancy
in summer to substitute for the slice of
lemon SOmetlmM SCPn nflnnf In the flnror.
bowl, a crisp, sweet-scented geranium
leai. un tne second-sized doiley is a
bread-and-butter plate, with the Individ
ual butter knife, and on the smallest
doiley of all Is a glass half lull of
chopped Ice.
Just now the fruit course Is a simple
one for the hostess 'to select. Cantaloupes
and peaches are at the height of their
season, and, of the two, peaches dress
the table more prettily. Many hostesses
like to serve grape fruit In some shape
or form for the first course, and a grape
fruit cocktail is an excellent appetizer
for the morning meal. It may be served
In glasses or in the grape-fruit shells;
In the latter case It must be served the
instant it is poured In the shell.
As a rule, when there are men present,
a first course of nelon or peaches is pre
ferable. At the Conclusion of this course
the fruit plates, knives and finger-bowls
will be removed and the maid will bring
on with the cereal course the coffee-pot,
the jug of boiling water, the cream and
the loaf sugar, which, she sets on a large
doiley at the hostess right The average
man's soul yearns for coffee in the morn
ing, and a wise hostess serves it promptly.
Before the host is placed the cereal.
A dainty Summer dish is cold rice, served
with dates. For this dish, wash a cup of
rice and place in a double boiler with a
pint of milk and a pint of water; cook
until soft enough to mould; add a dash of
salt, sweeten to taste and flavor slightly
with vanilla. Pack into a fancy mould
and set ort Ice. "Wash and stone enough
dates to fill a cup, and stew them until
tender with half a cup of sugar and one
cup of water, winch should form a syrup.
"When ready to serve turn out the rice
In the center of a flat dish and pour the
dates and syrup around it. Eaten with
cream this is a delicious dish.
The third course may bo as elaborate
as the hostess desires. Where men and
women have been surfeited jail "Winter
with the rich-made dishes .which have be
k come a feature of America's social life,
. ; SUNDAY
Rules the
lace, which Is connected by handwork
with triplicate shlrrlngs, very fine and
narrow, just, above the knee. Then comes
another inset of the lace set into a wide
band of the net, which, in turn, is ap
pllqued wjth black chantllly. The frou
frou which finishes the bottom is .still an
other shirred flounce of the white re
pousse. The decollete bodice is of shirred net,
completely hidden by a bolero of repousse
lace. The three-quarter sleeves are of
hand-shirred net running lengthwise and
with a lace flounce set in the back seam.
Single chantllly motifs are applied on
the blouse and the girdle is shirred net,
run with narrow hlack velvet ribbon. The
finishing touch of handwork Is given In
the application of the chantllly lace. This
shows a fern-leaf pattern, and the middle
vein of each leaf Is outlined with a num
ber of tiny silver pallettes.
This same design has been reproduced
in chiffon cloth of a delicate yellow tone,
with lace of the same tint and applied
motifs in orange velvet of the tone which
promises to be one of the dlrectolre ear
marks of the Fall fashion.
Black lace is. much seen in appliques
on white net or white lace. Here the
contrast is apt to be rather strong. Black
a simple breakfast course appeals most
strongly. Slices of real Virginia ham,
with the freshest of eggs and the crlep-
est of French potatoes, crusty rolls and
some garden relish, like iced cucumbers
or sliced tomatoes, will tempt appetites
where more elaborate dishes fall.
If the hostess lives, in a neighborhood
famous for some kind of fish, such as
mountain trout or blueflsh, she should
specialize this for her visitors. On some
inland streams a very popular dish Is
catfish and waffles. The catfish must
be washed thoroughly, dipped In eggs
and bread crumbs and fried in a wire
basket dipped In boiling lard. It should
be served In a bed of parsley and lemon,
and sauce tartare should be passed with
It. This sauce Is simply mayonnaise
dressing, to which are added olives, gher
kins, capers and parsley chopped fine.
An old-fashioned but very dependable
recipe for waffles Is this: One pint sour.
cream, same of sweet milk, one-half cup
butter, melted; three eggs, teaspoonful
soda, flour for thin batter. "Whip cream
with milk, butter and yolks of eggs.
Dissolve soda and add with flour, then
stir in one-third of beaten whites and
the rest as you bake.
A breakfast course which is always
satisfactory Includes broiled chicken and
waffles, or hominy bread. New peas and
cream sauce,' may be served with the
chicken. A sweet jelly, such as crab
apple, may also be passed with the
chicken. .
To Broil or Pan Chickens. Split them
down the back and draw carefully, wipe
the chicken Inside and out, then cross the
legs and tuck back the wings and flatten
the breast down so that the 'fowl Is com
pact and In shape. Lay them in a pan,
baste them with nielted butter and a
dash of pepper, pour around them half
a cup of chicken stock, and cook them
In a veryhot oven for about 15 minutes.
Draw them to the front of the oven and
baste again with melted butter; slat them
lightly and cook half an hour longer.
Remove from the oven and dash them on
a bed of parsley.
If a sauce Is to be served with them,
place them In the warming oven In a
clean pan, lined with paper to absorb
the grease. Place'the pan in which they
rere cooked oh top of the stove, and to
every tablespoonful of drippings left In
it add one tablespoonful of flour. "When
the flour Is rubbed smoothly into the
drippings, to the above-named propor
tions allow half a pint of milk. Add the
milk slowly, stirring constantly, and
OBEGONIAN, FOETIiAKD,
Kealm of
motifs in guipure or Arabian .lace are
seen on white chantllly, Valenciennes or
point de paris, while black chantllly or
other fine transparent laces are used as
Insets or banding with heavy white or
cream laces.
The most delicate of fabrics are com
bined tactfully with heavy, weighty laces.
This requires exquisite handwork, to en
hance the contrast. Picture, If you can,
this combination of pale, pink chiffon
cloth and point de venlse lace. The skirt
Is built in sections of shirring and tucks
when smooth and creamy add salt and
pepper In the proportion of half a tea
spoonful of salt and one level salt spoon
ful of pepper to each one-half pint of
milk. Strain Into a, gravy boat and pass
with the chicken, which Is now laid on
its bed of parsley.
To the man or woman who has lived
much in tho city and been surfeited on
"Vienna rolls and their like, breakfast
bread, in tho making of which our grand
mothers were very proficient, will appeal
particularly. For Instance, there Is the
Sally Lunn recipe, which hails from the
kitchen of a famous Ohio cook: Three
cups flour, one cup sugar, one cup corn
meal, half cup butter, one and a half cups
milk, four eggs, two teaspoons baking1
powder.
Popovers are. very delicious, but rather
old-fashioned. Take one cup of flour and
mix smooth with one cup of sweet milk,
and one well-beaten egg. add a piece of
butter the size of a walnut and a pinch
of salt. Bake In gem pans in a quick
oven.
If the hostess must choose between of
fering her guests an elaborate made meat
dish and a substitute for the ordinary
breakfast roll, by all means let her
choose the latter. The hearts of men (and
of many women) hunger for the Sally
Lunns and sweet potato rusks and corn
meal muffins which were popular In the
middle of the 13th century.
Sweet Potato Rusk. One cup yeast, one
cup mashed sweet potatoes,'- one cup
sugar; set this to rise in the" evening. In
the morning add one cup butter, four eggs
and a little salt; stiffen like soft bread
dough; let rise again until very light.
Roll and cut In small biscuits.
If a made-dish la desired for the prin
cipal 'course, chicken melon Js both
sightly and easily digested.
Chicken Melon. Mix yolks of four eggs
with one quart of bread crumbs and line
a buttered melon mold. Have ready one.
pint of thick, white sauce, td' which add
one quart of cooked chicken meat, chop
ped quite fine; add one tablespoonful.
minced parsley, one teaspoonful grated
horseradish, juice of half a melon, stiffly
beaten whites of four eggs; pour into
lined mbia; cover with, a thick layer of
crumbs; "set In oven to bake for 30 min
utes; let stand a moment, 'then unmold
on to a bed of watercress.
'Trouble In the Dime Museum.
' Chicago 'Tribune.
The Boa Constrictor What's making
that whistling sound in the next room?
The Educated Pig The fat man. leaned
up against the cage of the porcupine and
got a puncture, - .
TJGFUST 21, 190.
Fashion
divided by lace panels. Lateral tucking
forms a yoke around the hip. Inset with
lace, which runs horizontally. Then
comes a wide band of lateral tucking and
a narrow band of the lace. This is. fol
lowed by a band of tucked chiffon cloth,
with the tucks running horizontally and
a band of the lace set beneath It. Last
comes a graduated flounce of the chiffon
cloth, tucked laterally and inset with
panels of the lace, with deeper horizontal
tucks forming the finish at hem. '
The blouse is of shirred chiffon, with a
The Luxurious Modern Bath Room
Fittings Typify Extravagant Tendencies of the Twentieth Century.
THE modern bathroom and Its fit
tings typify the extravagant ten
dencies of the 20th century in all things
pertaining1 to personal comfort and lux
ury. In tho new mansions built by
millionaires the decorations of the
bathrooms vie with those in the drawing-rooms.
Marble, mosaics and tilings
of the most extravagant designs cover
the floors andwalls. Many of the more
luxurious rooms have a plunge as well
as a tub bath, in which case the room
is almost lined with niches Inset with
mirrors and filled with exquisite mar
ble statuary." The latter are usually
mythological figures.
In the new apartment-houses which
are being- erected in all the larger
cities, the bathroom fittings are re
garded as the apartment's hall-mark.
In such a New York apartment, re
cently thrown open to tenants, the
suites, consisting of two rooms and a
bath, rent for $3000 a year, unfur
nished. The, bathrooms are in pure
white and nickel, and in one end of tho
room Is a pqculiarrlooklng. case, which
is a cross between a china closet and
the glas3 and nickel cases used by
surgeons in their offlpes for keeping
supplies and instruments. In reality,
this bathroom attachment is a cold
storage plant on "small scale, and Is
used by the tenants for storing liquors,
fruit and otherVtable dainties for In
formal suppers given by the apartment-house
hostesses who have no
kitchen. t
The pre'f erred two styles 'of fitting
out the bathroom are the nickel and
glass combination and the all-white
furnishings. The. nickel and srlass
equipment Is considered particularly
sanitary, and among the fittings of
.fered are these:
A shaving mirror, oval and unframed.
18 inches in length, is set on a nickel
bracket which extends a foot from the
wall and which can be swung In any
direction to catch the light. Such a
mirror Is considered essential to every
well-furnlshed bathroom.
A medicine chest is a pocket addi
tion of the surgeon's case, 'it is. of
solid glass, half an inch thick, mounted
with nickel-plate, and- has two, three
or four shelves, according to the size
desired. It can be hung from a stout
picture molding or by means of screw
eyes in the wall, just as an ordinary)
wooden medicine chest is hung. This
offers ao.d.yiinJtageYhoxdiaary
Popular Fabriqs Demand Hand
Appliques Will Be Seen
bolero of the lace faced with lingerie
ruffles of white- chiffon with finest mech
lin lace edging, all put on by hand. The
sleeves are formed of six graduated ruf
fles, hemmed and lace-edged by hand,
falling over a puff of chiffon cloth, and
this in turn over a tight-fitting under
slceve of mousquetaire build, set with
Innumerable tiny lace frills. The girdle
Is of tucked chiffon cloth, each tuck sep
arated by a slender line of gold em
broidery. This is one of the simple
handwrought house frocks of early Fall
fashion!
An elegant design shotvs an entire gown
built from two-Inch hand-run tucks of
cream-colored moussellne, laid on skirt
and bodice in "V-shaped points, appllqued
with St. Gall lace, showing white, lacy
tissue with shaded brown embroidery.
The entire flounce Is appllqued with these
motifs, and the flounce has for its bot
tom and top finish, double rows of brown
velvet ribbon connected kby the St. Gall
motifs. A deep bertha with stole ends
is built entirely from triple rows of vel
vet ribbon, connected and appllqued with
St. Gall motifs.
The boulllinne or puffed niching, so
medicine chest in that while it keeps
the bottles free from dust, the house
wife can always see her stock of fam
ily remedies, and she knows just what
she has on hand without going
through a dark closet.
A great convenience is a combina
tion shelf of thick glass mounted with
nickel. On either corner is a nickel
standard. One holds an ordinary
jglass and the other holds a glass which
has a nickel cover, perforated to sup
port tooth and nail brushes. Depend
ing froim the shelf Is a towel rack, and
between this rack and the shelf Is
swung a soapr dish supported by nickel
rods. Two screw holes In the nickel
serve to hold this shelf In place on the
wall. A combination soap dish and
spongeholder In heavy nickel has a
handle bent so that It will fit right
over the sloping sides of the porcelain
tub. This Is a saving of soap as well
as temper.
The new nickel mountings for
shower baths have swung from them
a curtain of white silk rubber, and the
seats, which are fitted across the bath
tubs, are covered with white rubber to
render them less slippery. Rubber
mats with little protuberances, similar
to those used on cigar and restaurant
counters for change, are used in the
bottom of the tub, and wili be grate
fully received by those who have
known the discomforts of slipping
around in a tub rendered slippery by
soapsuds. T,hese mats are about two
feet one way and one foot the other,
and are not expensive. Rubber gloves
made on the same principle as the rub
ber flesh brushes are excellent for
opening the pores of the skin. They
come In various sizes for men and
women.
The white-finish fixtures are of hard
wood, enameled, and everything is of
fered In this "ware from mirror frames
to towel racks. For use with this fin
ish come mugs and soap dishes of
heavy glazed crockery. In this ware
Is shown a very effective shaving set,
which includes a cupboard for holding
brushes, razors, mugs, ec, and which
has a shaving mirror on the outside
of the door.
An exclusive and high-priced plumb
ing establishment has just fitted out a
white and silver bathrom that is a
marvel of elegance. From the silver
whiskbroom-holder to the spongeholder
on the edge of the bath tub every piece
of metallic work is in quadruple plate
and bears the owner's monogram.
A novelty is ixaaa tas&U xacK of
Sewing Embroidery and
on All Fall Frocks..
much used for the finish of silk frocks,
are made entirely by hand.y It consists
of a band of taffetas, with the edge turned
back and covered by very narrow velvet
ribbon run on by hand. This velvet
edged band is then gathered on either side
to form a puff and applied by hand in a
scroll of arabesque design on the cloth
all by hand, of course.
The bouilllnne may be run with a cord
edging and the cord finish is best for
heavy materials. Cloudy Dresden ribbon
is used for the bouilllnne, and plain, nar
row ribbons, for ruchings, which are laid
on gowns in conventional designs.
The rage for long, graceful scarfs is
another demand upon handwork. Net
foundations are covered with applied mo
tifs, run with gold thread. Chiffon andr
moussellne scarfs are masses of fine tuck
ing and shirring.
Handwork belts show pin-tucks or tiny
shlrrings, separated by band3 of gold or
sliver embroidery- Insets of lace are
edged with tiny ruchings and run with
bullion thread. And last, but not least,
Milady buys inexpensive chiffon veils and
finishes the hems with French knots or
other dainty handwork.
KATHERINE ANDERSON.
octagonal shape, mounted with nickel
and finished with brass balls. These
decorations, however, are not as popu
lar as the other fittings mentioned.
In the line of bath towels a new
coarse-mesh foundation, not unlike
crochet wash cloths. Is offered in lieu
of Turkish toweling.
A word to the. woman who has an
old-fashioned bathroom which she
wishes to have done over in white.
Have the walls covered with washable
or oilcloth finished paper in a white or
cream tiled pattern. Before painting
the woodwork white, sandpaper off all
the colored paint until you get down to
the natural wood, then give It a coa
of pure white paint and one of enamel
paint. Use bath tub enamel for the
tub, and not an ordinary enamel.
There is a difference between the
two. In selecting nickel fittings for the'
bathroom, such as tooth-brush holders,
towel racks, etc, remember that With
ordinary care, "seconds" in light
weight nickel will wear well if taken
care of. They will not stand belnff
knocked around as heavier weights do,
but they do not tarnish any sooner.
The Norsk Nightingale.
"W. F. Kirk, In Milwaukee Sentinel.
"Ven Romeo and Yuflet
Ban making plarity love
He say to her: "Ay lak to bet
Yu ban my turtle dove."
She say: "Val, Romeo, ay gueas
Yu ban high card In deck.
But ef my dad ban catch yu har
Ay tenk he'll break yure neck."
Den Romeo get gude and mad
And say: "Dar ant no Svede
(Ay ant care ef he ban yure dad)
Can mak my nose tu bleed I
Ay ban gude smart Norveglan guy
Vlthout no yellow streak.
And ay skol black your fader's ey
. And tak gude smasii at beakj"
Miss Yulie tenk dls ban all right,
And so she tal her beau,
"Ef yu ban having any flght
Ay' 11 back yu, Romeo."
Den out on porch In rocking chair
She stick so tight lak burr
"While Romeo give her gude not air
And making love to her.
Her fader tenk dls ban a sin
And dey skol have some spats;
Mies Yulle give him lots of chin
Den take some Rough on Rats
And Romeo grab big butcher knife
And cut himself clean tru;
Ven you ban looking after vif
lH3k0UJt for fader, tul