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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 28, 1903)
3g THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, SUMMER WKAPS FINEK THAN EVE"R I SHATOEFS m mGH - TJjUjrLfciJ wraps aw? oiten more ot an adornment than a necessity- The dainty stole or fichu adds attraction to the simplest dress. The shawl hangs in clinging folds, which give grace even to the angular figure, while the filmy meshes of a silken scarf add piquancy to the face "which it encircles. These are the Summer girl's deadliest "weapons, and she Is never without a number "which will match "with, every costume. For the breezy veranda, after the heated atmosphere of a Summer's ballroom, and for the moonlight sali. something more substantial than silk or lace is to be recommended. The thin shawls ofShet land "wool are soft and pretty and they come in all the delicate shades. This year they have extra heavy fringe, to cater to the fringe craze which has be set Dame Fashion. Indeed, most of the shawls, whether they are of wool, crocheted, and of generous proportions, or are infinitesimal head shawls, or fascinators of silk, are adorned with fringe. Sometimes the fringe is of chenille, sometimes it Is formed of rib bon loops or ends. Or it may be of knotted silk cords. One pale pink silk scarf has a fringe of ribbon and Small pink roses. A rose Is fastened to the end of each ribbon. Another white silk shawl has a fringe of white ribbon and white and purple violets. Among the silk shawls, those of change able silk are attractive. Shading off from salmon pink to salmon, from green to violet, and in many other delicate color combinations, they are dainty over a white or black gown. Then there are tartan plaid silk shawls for those who are true to bonnle Scot-! land, or who love the play of brilliant colors. The Roman stripe silk shawls have a steadily growing popularity. They come in striking color combinations, not only for ehawls, but for head scarfs. Head scarfs are a great feature of Sum mer wear. The Roman stripe scarfs have openwork gauze mingled with the silk. and are therefore as light as a thistle down. They are In all the pastel shades. A vivid crimson, white and green one will be becoming to a brunette, while her blonde sister will do well to choose a delicate pink and blue combination. The auburn-haired girl will find a sapphire blue and white scarf ready for her wear ing. The scarfs of chiffon, either printed or hand-painted, are even more attractive. They well deserve the old-fashioned name of cloud. The scarfs and squares of lib erty silk are also filmy and cloud-like. They come both in plain colors and In stripes. A cloud of green and white lib erty silk. In broad stripes, has fringed ends, and will become either brunette or blonde. Among the latest scarfs are the che nille. They are soft and velvety to the touch. For those who object to their ap parent thickness, there is the chenille scarf, interwoven with silk braid. A pure white scarf of this variety has Its ends trimmed with chenille fringe fully eight inches in depth. If thinner head scarfs are desired, there are lace ones of every sort and price. Malta lace is the season's chief favorite. Indeed, white or cream laces have quite superseded the black laces la popular favor. The scarfs of Malta lace have both elegance and distinction. The silken meshes stand dampness better than the linen and cotton thread laces. If milady has an unlimited purse she will have a shawl of Malta lace. The widespread use of lace has resur rected the old-fashioned lace shawls. Those who rejoice In such family heir looms will be taking them out of old chests to wear with their most recherche toilettes. A gown of vivid silk looks doubly attractive when veiled by a lace shawl. The black Spanish lace shawls are also being worn both over the shoul ders and as a head scarf. The desire to obtain long-shoulder ef fects has much to do with the popularity 01 stoies, ucnus ana pelerines. They will accompany most of the dressy Summer gowns. It is predicted that this fact will have further outgrowths in the form of capes, but so far It is little more than a prophecy. The stoles, fichus and peler ines are fashioned in feathers, chiffon, lace, muslin and tulle, and there is no wait to attractive styles. A dainty pelerine has long ends which reach to the hem of the skirt. Nothing will so emphasize a tall and slender fig ure. The foundation, as it were. Is a Russian lace cape collar. From this de pends an accordion pleated ruffle of white chiffon. It is fully ten Inches deep and is edged with a fun niching. Above the lace collar falls a short turnover collar of white silk over a stiff foundation. It is trimmed by triple runnings of narrow black velvet ribbon, and with Innumerable French knots worked in heavy white silk. The long ends are of the chiffon edged with the accordion pleated ruffle. They cross slightly over the bust and are held In place there by a bunch of white ribbon carnations tied with many long loops and ends of black velvet. Another handsome pelerine Is also of white chiffon. A four-Inch band of shirred white chiffon, edged with narrower bands of chiffon, ruchlng combined with narrow white velvet ribbon, circles the shoulders like a fichu. Long ends hang down the front to below the knee. A wide accor dion pleated ruffle, similarly trimmed with ruchlng and baby i-elvet, depends from the shoulder band and ornaments both edges of the stole ends. Rosettes of white chiffon give -a finish to the points where the pelerine is pinned to each side of the front of the bodice, to prevent its slipping fron the shoulders. A pelerine of "white mallne has a cape collar of the mallne over a white silk foundation. On this are appllqued black lace butterflies, and It s edged with ruchings of dotted black net. From this depends triple ruffles of the accordion pleated mallne, graduated in length. Bach is edged with a narrow ruffle of the dotted net. The wide ends, which hang down the front to the knees, are of the accordion pleated mallne. They are ornamented by alternate triple rows of black net ruffling and irregular appliques of the black lace butterflies. Many of the tulle hats, in white or delicate colors, have tulle stoles or peler ines to match. This Is a distinctively new feature of the season. The parasol may also match, and the whole effect Is ex tremely dainty. HARRIET HAWLEY. FOU-RTH OF JUIy PieJNIC BASKET PIRST on the roster of the Fourth of July picnic edibles comes the sand wich. In making the sandwich almost anything will do if the maker knows how to transform, supplement and put to gether In an appetizing way. Bread is no longer cut In "hunks" and meat in "chunks." The bread should be cut thin and lightly buttered. The crust. If tender, may be left on, as many count it the best part of the loaf. The sandwich must not be left mussy or greasy around the edges, and each sandwich made of whole slices of bread must be cut into two or four pieces, ac cording to the size and shape of the loaf. A big sandwich which obliterates the en tire face when eating is not to be en dured. The bread may bo white, brown, whole wheat, Indian, rye or pumpernickel, It may take the form of rolls or biscuit, cold gems or crackers, but the "filling" must accord with Its binding. The bread should be a day old and be spread after cutting, and not on the loaf, as Is often advised. Beef Sandwiches. Mince cold rare steak or roast very fine, discarding every fragment of gristle. Sea son with salt and pepper, spread It on buttered bread, over it lay a few sprigs of water cress or chopped pickle, and cover. Ebst Sandwich. If there is a bit of scrambled egg left over from breakfast, spread between thin1 slices of buttered bread, or slice cold, boiled eggs crosswise, season with salt nnd pepper, put on a little chopped dill pickel, and put between slices of brown bread. Gingerbread Sandwich. Cut plain home-made gingerbread Into rather thick slices, spread with butter, and for a filling use minced raisins, some smooth apple sauce flavored with nutmeg or orange marmalade. Cottage Cheese Sandwich.. Cut slices or rye or brown bread with out removing the crusts. Rub a half pint of cottage cheese to a smooth paste with a little melted butter, half a teaspoonful of salt and two tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Put between the buttered slices. This may be varied and improved by using a lettuce leaf with each cream cheese fill ing, or mixing with the cheese a half cup ful of chopped nuts. Gingerbread is also nlee with the filling of cream cheese and nuts. N"nt Sandwiches. These are always timely, and a Jar of peanut butter kept on tap will prove use ful many times. The easiest way to pre pare the nuts is to run them through the meat chopper. Then they may be moist ened with cream, melted butter or mayon naise. A few chopped dates or figs can be added to nuts if desired. N'nuturtlnm Snndvrleb. Is dainty and appetizing, especially when the flowers or leaves may be gathered fres'a from the home flower garden. Drop into ice water to crisp while the rest of the lunch is being made ready. Cut the bread in thin slices and butter, then place a thin layer of the yellow petals or one pungent leaf 'between the slices. No seasoning is required aside from a light sprinkling of salt, as the nasturtium has a delightfully distinctive flavor of its own. Mayonnaise Is often used with the leaves, but it is in no wise necessary. Olive and Caviar Sandwiches. Chop the olives fine and moisten with xnavonnalso. Cut th rrpnrf vor-tr butter slightly, and put two slices to gether. Spread one with the caviar and the other with the olives. Flub Sandwiches. Take any cooked fresh fish left over from dinner, free from the bones, press to a paste, season with salt and pepper and moisten with mayonnaise. A little chopped pickle Is esteemed an addition to this filling, which Is excellent with white or whole wheat bread. Tomato Sandwiches. Cut whole wheat bread Into circular slices, using a cake cutter for the purpose. Butter, lay on it a round of tomato of the same size, sprinkle with salt and pep per and a little grated cheese, and press the rounds together. Cucumber Sandwich. Put thin slices of crispy cucumber. Sipped into French dressing or mayon naise, between two small slices of buttered bread. Petite Pains Force. For these delicious sandwiches use the small dinner rolls. Cut lengthwise, remove a little of the crumb and fill with a mix ture of chopped meat, eggs and celery, moistened with mayonnaise. Press to gether and skewer in place with a tooth pick. Spinach Sandwich. Chop boiled spinach fine, mix with an eqUal amount of cream cheese, season with lemon Juice, moisten with mayon naise and spread. Wrap the sandwiches In parafflne paper and pack in a tin bis cuit box. Deviled Egg. Make an appreciable addition to the lunch basket. Boil the eggs 20 minutes, and then put in cold water until thoroughly cold. Then shell, cut In two in the middle and remove the yolks, putting them In a small bowl and setting the whites on a platter In pairs, so that they will fit when placed together agalnl Mash the yolks with the bowl of a silver or wooden Bpoon. Season with salt and pepper and moisten with melted butter, olive oil or mayon naise. Add Just a suspicion of chopped pickle or parsley, if you like, and refill the cavities. Put the original halves to gether. Skewer with wooden toothpicks and wrap each egg in a square of oiled paper, twisting the ends to hold. Cheese Straws Are appetizing and easy to pack In a little box by themselves. Wft together one cupful of flour and a quarter teaspoonful of baking powder. Add half a teaspoon ful of salt and chop two tablespoonfuls of butter Into the flour. Mix In a quarter saltspoonful of cayenne and one cup of grated cheese. "Wet with cold water to a stiff paste and roll out very thin. Cut in narrow strips and bake on greased letter paper on the bottom of an inverted tin. A little salt sifted over them Just before they are taken from the oven Is considered to be an Improvement. A good plan is to make cheese straws on baking day, using scraps of puff paste. Ficaic Tarts. At the same time cut out and bake a dozen or a half dozen tart crusts from the pie paste. Cut out an even number of circles with the cooky cutter, and in half of them mark three little round holes, using a thimble. When getting ready for the picnic, put a good spoonful of tart Jelly, like currant, plum or cranberry, on the lower crust and cover with the eye leted one. Pack separately from the rest of the luncheon in a Bmall tin, or bonbon box. In packing the basket put the fruit, the sweets and cako at the bottom, each wrapped In Its own paper, and then 'eat down" to them. BEAUTY DON'TS FOR ALL -WOMEN D ONT think that you can lay the cor ner-stone of beauty and health un less the laws of hygiene are observed. Don't be afraid of fresh air. Not fresh air, but the lack of It, is the cause of a sallow skin and dull eyes. Don't be afraid to take deep breaths from an erroneous idea that the lungs are favored in this way. Conscious, deep breathing practiced dally makes strong lungs and clear complexions. Don't carry your worries to bed with you, if you want to have a smooth skin and attractive expression. Don't take your beauty sleep after 6 in the morning, but before 11 at night. Don't wash your face before going out in the sun or wind. Don't go out In the sun sans hat, sans veil, sans gloves, unless you want the complexion of a North American Indian. Don't use the complexion brush with a heavy hand. Don't put the complexion brush away without scalding It Don't put sticky cold creams on the face. Don't wear a facemask at night. Your skin needs all the air It can get. Don't flatter yourself that It Is enough to have glossy hair, pearly teeth and a brilliant complexion. You must also have a graceful gait and a sweet voice, and top all off with a pleasing expression. A PELERINE OF ACCORDION PLEATED 2IOLINE. A PELERINE OF ACCORDION' PLEATED CHIFFON A Jill LACE. A PLEA FOR THE KITCHEN TOILERS L, E. BERTELS BARRIGER THERE Is no labor to which such odium Is attached, which so belittles the laborer, and from which our girls so shrink In these days, as being employed to do housework. Some of the dearest; most virtuous, best girls that I know are doomed to such labor for a livelihood; not because they do not deserve a better posi tion and are not capable of a more hon ored task, but because of lack of advant ages in early life. Their parents were poor and at an early age it was necessary to support themselves and sometimes to render assistance to the home. Can you not see here a self-sacrifice, a beauty of courage, a grace In endurance which some of you, who sneer at the working girl, fail to possess? Now let us Inquire, Is kitchen work a thing to be despised, ac counted low, vulgar and unbecoming a lady? We answer, it Is a part of an in stitution which we all consider the most refined, elevating and love-crowned In the world the home. In order to keep up that which we all must have a home somebody must cook, wash dishes, clean house, etc. If the home, as a whole. Is elevatwl and honornhlft thin nmvtrrtlnir I to true reasoning, the parts which const!- I A CLOUD OF WHITE CREXILLE GLORIFIES A PRETTY FACE. GRACEFUL FOLDS OF A GREEN AND WHITE STRIPED LIBERTY SCARF. tute the whole, must be equal with the whole In quality of honor. But in these days girls will do almost anything rather than do housework. Why? Because, as they say, "We are looked down upon, and utterly ostracised from society, because we work In somebody's kitchen." Frequently, these dear girls, down-trodden and weary of their exist ence, talk out their heartaches, asking for sympathy and comfort. Nobody wants them at any, social functions, public or private; nobody wants to be seen walking or talking with them for fear of being uiuuucu u a. Kiicnen gin; noDoay wants them coming to their front door or going out of the same; they are only "my ser vants," so say the girls and so they are made to fseL Now, why Is this class of labor made so odious and held in such contempt; thereby branding, as mere menials, those engaged in it? Whose fault is it? The fault lies at the door of the church. A great number of those who employ help In the kitchen are church members. There are enough of these alone to wipe out the evil if they would. How shall It be done? My sisters, who profess to follow the meek, the lowly Jesus who was not above serving. It lies in your power to make honorable tho calling of the working girls. When this vocation shall be counted re putable and on a level with other meth ods of wage-earning, then will the girls who fill these places share the elevation given to their employment. Now then, is it not our duty as Chris tian women to make kitchen work an hon orable sphere? We can do It, and must do it to be Just before Him who Is no re specter of persons. How would you like your daughter shut up in somebody's kitchen, not allowed any privileges of the home, compelled to eat the victuals when they are cold ordered to go in and' out the most rear entrance to the TMMpnnp no place to entertain her lady friends or even ner minister wno cans uppn ner, and never Invited among guests to any re spected doings! Would It not crush the life out of her If she were possessed ol any spirit and family pride? A girl may be as true a lady In your kitchen as you are In your parlor. How then shall we elevate her sphere and thus elevate her? Of course, good Judgment and common sense must be consulted. Study your girl. Whoever she be. give her the advantage of your courtesies, your Dra.vers. ana vour instruction tr oh a be fit for a companion, why not treat her an sucn: jiaae ner me nappy ana nome like. Give her all the privileges you can consistentlv with th amount nf InW t- be done. Treat her as If she were human ana nad reelings like yourself. Hold out to her little nleasures; enenurae her to confide In you; study her welfare. In snort, develop the lady In her though she bo your servant. Von trill train hr re spect, love and faithfulness to your In terests. If girls could bo treated with such consideration, more of them would be available where they are so much needed. Housewives' own treatment of their helD has made thp- flr-nr-rlti- of hnnca servants that exists. Factories, stores and an otner openings aro filled by girls who ought to learn to be housekeepers for the welfare of the race. Good material for wives is at a premium because of this state of things. Girls don't know how to keep house these days. Shall we do our Christian duty and open the Wav to these fHrla Into rin-liMii society, saving them from the Isolation, which is now forced upon them? Instead oi tne respectaDie aired girl being looked dOWn UDOn. there Should Via n horiira rf honor bestowed upon her whp Is brave enougn to iaco tne contempt of the silly, proud ones and earn an honpnt Hvin- Shall we not place a value upon her purity ana ner virtue wnich keeps her above sell ing ksr as do raanjk tor tho money that provides their clothes and comforts? General Superintendent Hart has said that "the church is the last place where should exist social distinctions or money qualifications." The true church rests upon the same principles which Christ lived out upon earth that "though he was rich, yet for your sakes he became poor." Shall we not deal as faithfully with this question as with other questions which we recognize in God's word and consider of moment? Pride, wicked pride, is the monster which sets Its foot upon the neck of the kitchen toller. Let me urge this plea for a higher standard for kitchen service, thereby up lifting those who serve. I appeal to those to whom God has given wealth, brains and influence, not to pass this matter by with a nod of the head and a significant "umph," as much as to say that the writer does not now what she ip talking about. You may be mistaken. Flesh and blood hath not revealed unto her, but God's spirit, the sinfulness of injustice meted dut to those in less opulent circum stances. I have marked this fact that those who have always been used to luxury and cul tured and refined homes, are more consid erate of their servants, as a rule, than are those persons, strange as It seems, who have suddenly risen from poverty themselves to fine surroundings. Justice is an attribute of the divine, and whoever Is born of God must be Just. Christ, who was tempted In all points like as we are, knew how to succor the tempted. Let us remember that "life Is not the gathering of pleasant surroundings, but the outgoing of effort and affection for others." Walton, N. Y. EMBROIDERIES FOR THE TABLE IT Is not good form to have any but pure white lace upon the table, and even the colored silk embroideries upon white linen, which have made lunch ta bles so bright in times past, are less pop ular, although still in use by people of fashion, to some extent. A pretty shade of light green linen, em broidered In whlte,has had something of a vogue, but the only really smart col ored linen for the table is the clear blue worked In white, and this is a fashion which, like all extreme novelties, will probably go out In a year. With the tremendous vogue for fine needlework which is sweeping the coun try comes the fad for more needlework In the way of hemstitching and fancy stitching upon table linen, while other household articles, such as pillows, scarfs and table covers, are being adorned with needlework In cross-stitching, embroidery and an the fancy stitches known to mod ern needlework. In this the numberless lace, braids, buttonhole, rings, embroidery cords and heavy silks aid in making' beautiful objects with far less exertion than In former years. Shameful "la some cities." Bald Mrs. Old castle, "they call women who run automobiles. chauffeu03.' " "Mercy sakes!" replied her hostess, "you don't tell me? I didn't s'poo they done anything worse than throw stones, unless a person happened to run over soma body." Chicago Record-Herald. EXQUISITE TOILETTE OF P ALE BLUE KET WITH REN'SIX AP PLICATIONS OF BLACK VELVET RIBBON. J 4