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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 28, 1903)
THE SUNDAY OREGOiNIAiSf, PORTLAND. JUNE 28, 1903. St PICTURESQUE WAY OF ACQUIRING POSE, POISE AND ADORABLE CURVES "BEAUTy CULTURE FQR THE SLIMMB'R G1RL IT has become the modern mald'a duty to be light and lithe and Incidentally gay. s The present fashion of flowing draperies and wreath-crowned tresses demands a development of those -womanly curves "which are so adorable and so lovable. How. then, shall she acquire this grace and poise? By wrestling dally with wands, dumb-bells and Indian clubs? By pound ing a bag, setting up a chest-weight In her boudoir or by going in for fencing? No, these exercises fine muscle-developers though they are she dismissed with the advent of warm weather. Her Summer programme for retaining a lithe figure and acquiring pose, poise and grace Is much more interesting. That It Is also much more picturesque adds to the beauty of the scheme. When she walks in-her country garden In the cool of the morning she carries the basket of flowera, which she has culled, upon her head. She is told that she looks distractingly sweet by some one who has met her "by chance, the usual way," when she Is practicing her garden athletics. She replies that she feels like a market woman, and will he buy a rose? She realizes, however, that she never felt more buoyant or stepped forth with a more elastic tread that she is giving her figure the benefit of every inch of stature to which it is entitled. In fact, walking about with a weight on the head is the short woman's best ally. It gives that erectness of figure which the woman who is undersized must cultivate If she desires to triumph over her shortness of stature. The woman who will hold herself erect and walking about with a weight on the head Is the quickest and easiest way to acquire the art can apparently add to the height of her figure and Impress behold ers with a far greater sense of Impor tance than another woman with natural advantages Indifferently cultivated. She also grows more thoroughbred in looks and movements. If it happens that you are not in a po sition to gather roses at early morn or dewy eve, and rove around in a highly romantic state of mind, poising flowers upon your head, it is yet possible, in the seclusion of your room, to follow out this system of beauty-culture. Take up any weight a book, a box, or, better still, something breakable, a vase or a pitcher and make the tour of your room. Walk on tiptoe, as this is an ex cellent balance movement The shoulders should be kept level throughout the exer cise, which Is then one of the best means of' correcting the habit of tipping the shoulders from side to side when walking. In walking on tiptoe one lands on the balls of the feet, which is the great de- MIDSUMMER They Dazzle by Their IN the toilettes ordered for mid-Summer wear, the very pinnacle of the season's splendor has been reached. Nothing which savors of the economical or the unpretentious will be worn by the smart woman at this time. The costumes being prepared for her, and those on hand which she will sport, are of a sort to daz zle tho eye with their loveliness and take away the breath by their prices. Fine laces over chiffons and other silken gauzes reign supreme as textures for out-of-town carriage gowns, costumes for casino wear and what not. The more diaphanous their look the better, and when tho billowy train is lifted satin slippers, silk stockings and airy petti coats in tho same tints are revealed. For her finest raiment the sophisticated dresser eschews anything in the nature of a kid shoe unles it is in the bronze shade. Such footwear, which is considered the top notch of smartness, she displays only with brown or blue gown. If her hoisted furbelows display white petticoats, they are of the most filmy na ture and elaborately trimmed with lace. By a curious contrariness tho wash petti coat will go with a silk and lace gown and the silk one with a wash frock. The latter combination is almost alwaj's necessary to preserve a good effect, for even the heaviest linens are made to hang limply. So, unless supported by a silk drop or underskirt, the rich braid and em broideries which embellish these and other stout wash textures would not be seen at their best. Some beautiful gowns prepared for the chatelaines of out-of-town houses betray fashion's tenderness for the young mat ron. The jeune Alio she will tolerate even tenderly indulgo up to a point and with the middle-aged women sheris more often benignant than unkind. But for cherishing love, admiration and a keen appreciation of the duty in hand go to the young married woman if you want to know anything about the state of Dame Fashion's heart. In the finery In question all tho arts of this good lady were exhausted to pro duce effects at once womanly and coquet tish. One beautiful dinner gown of blue and pink rosebud silk even suggested a delicate statellness, for the stiff bodice with Its tight elbow sleeves and square neck had a courtly flavor, which the eklrt opening over a lace petticoat de lightfully emphasized. The cut of this at the bottom also leaned to ancient methods, the fall of the skirt meeting the floor with the short, square look of the patch and powder period. This charming gown, with Its open neck and elbow sleeves, afforded ample oppor tunity for the pearl necklace and minia ture bracelet now the rage. So much are pearl necklaces of all 'de grees of splendor the fashion that women possessing genuine gems display them on all occasions. Many carriage gowns are cut out at the neck to accommodate the Btlff dog collars with diamond slides; and strings of single stones will be hooped with Oriental carelessness over gauzy Ftocks that cost nothing by comparison If everything else falls the Barroque pearl the irregular fresh water stone is resorted to. and so exquisitely are these combined with other gems that the owner of such a. necklace rarely regrets her lack of tho mbre precious sort. The most economical phase of the pearl necklace fad Is the wearing of one or three Barroque stones on a thin gold chain. These are in pear shape with calyx setting in silver and rose diamonds. and with a high gown only the misshapen pearl is seen, falling over the front of the stock pendant fashion. Simple materials are used to accomplish the most elegant results with many fine dresses. For example, one exquisite evening gown of white net and lace was made charming by a treatment anything out expensive m itself. Pink rose gar landsthe simple, cheap sort that are bought In yard lengths were put on the bodice and skirt between shlrrlngs of the net. which was almost as fine as tulle. Those on the bodice formed a deli. rate bertha band for the round neck, and those on the skirt shaped a hip yoke Blthout increasing the figure at this point. Only a French mind could have 'thought of such a combination, but deft Ingers all over the world may achieve It. Anotner ana even more brilliant use B being made of black bebe velvet, which s now woven in elaborate embroideries. L dress ordered for Newport of a swag fer maker displays these embroideries in pj1f" form of bis sunflowers. Net Is the NO. I PRACTICING HER NEW SYSTEM OF BEAUTY CULTURE. 7iO. II sideratum if poise is to be cultivated. The way to learn the art of true balanc ing or standing on tiptoe is to raise the heels quickly from the ground and stand GOWNS RICH IN SPLENDOR Loveliness and Take Away the Breath fcy Their Prieces texture of the gown, and blue in a curi ous deep yet faded shade Its color; and over this effective background the flowers appear upon the skirt, which is made with a deep shirred flounce and train. The bodice is entirely of shlrrlngs over a fitted lining, with the velvet looped over the markings and caught down with rosettes. The tops of the puffed sleeves are also shirred, creating a snug fit .at this point, while square tabs of blue silk, heavily stitched, form a graceful bertha fall. The sacque Influence Is felt In all Sum mer wraps, and in those of an elaborate nature this looseness is especially domi nant. Superb laces are employed over silk and chiffon for coats for the carriage or the stroll during a moment idly through some country club house. The sleeves of' the garment are as wide in proportion as the rest of it, and if there is a collnr, it Is more like a cape than a collar, so deep and limp and enveloping is its fall. A number of the less expensive of the loose models are made of soft finished poplin. Shantung pongee and raw silk, which uneven texture suggests both of the former ones. Into these textiles the squarely figured Greek laces are inserted. for everything with a maltese pattern Is "Greek" just now. Some of the elaborate hotel frocks the fashionable resort hotels get the larger crop of the Summer's magnificence show laces in tints never seen before. Those odd colorings arc confined to the novel webs, which everywhere sprang up like mushrooms the moment the word for laco as high on tiptoe as possible, then lower the heels with moderate speed. To increase the difficulty of balancing, after becoming expert, go through this ex went forth. Especially do the Paraguay laces show them. Examined In tho fragment, Paraguay lace is not overwhelming In Its beauty, more nearly resembling a web worn to its warp than a new dentelle. But see the flimsy, ragged looking lace made up In a gown colored brown and white or green and brown and the feminine mind and eye are conquered by its effectiveness. A reception frock of Paraguay lace, shaped from the softest brown to pale plstache green, was exceedingly beauti ful. The sense of color, more than form, was felt, and this was as haunting as an ingle in the wood, a white silk lining supplying the gleam of light needed. An other Paraguay laco dress was in dull pinks and whites, with a'elvet trimmings in the deepest shade of pink. The new Oriental blues are also seen in this lace, as well as superb shades of orange some of which border on saffron. Tho mid-Summer hat was not a sort sold alone for this purpose, but the law which adjusts all things now shapes it Into a dis tinct species. A composite photograph of all the Summer headgear in Christen dom would result in a transparent back ground and a llowery thatch. Even if the shape is of straw. It is of a straw so fragile that It can almost be seen through. It Is fiat besides, large In circumference and invariably flower trimmed. Many transparent black hats of drawn tulle with ostrich plumes are seen, the shapes running much to Gainsborough effects. The crownless plateau Is almost as much in evidence, a stiff hair band rais ing this for fit and becomlngsness from EXQUISITE DINNER FOR CORRECT POISE AND CHAR3IING ercise with . the arms raised upright. Grasping some object a ball, for example helps to give life to the movement. Circle the arms back and 'forth, making the head. Such wire shapes are some times loosely covered with" tulle, which black velvet ribbon In turn bars into loose puffs. The flowers are massed flat on the top In small flower sprays or single roses as big as saucers.' A hat of shaded lichen Is a novel and stylish freak In millinery. If It is trimmed with blood root leaves and blooms, all the better. The cool and -sylvan are qual ities much remarked in Summer millinery, though such a headpiece, nine times out of ten, will rub elbows with something baking hot In suggestion. In this cate gory may be ranked tho hats of vivid red geranium, which, even though they are hot looking, are effective with white or black dresses. The Summer veil, like the -Summer glove, is mainly to be found on the counters of conscientious shopkeepers. Few women are wearing veils at this period, and when they do patronize them, it Is either to get something extravagant as a dra pery for the hat brim t)r else something transparent and insignificant as a guard for wind-blowing- locks. Here and there a Summer girl will garland her hat brim with a vivid scarlet, orange, apple green or mazarine blue veil of sewing-silk va riety. She wears this over a black ma llne and chenlllo mesh, with tho conscious ness that her beauty is thereby enhanced; but tho maid who fears neither sun nor man goes without face covering and 13 recognized as the true-blue thing. In the same way the aristocrat of fash ion scorns to cover her hands except for the most exacting occasions. During dancing, walking and boating, her tanned fingers defy criticism with their beauti fully kept nails, which are no longer cut pointed as formerly, but in a deep oval. MARY DEAN. The Australian colonies have a greater rail way mileage. In proportion to population, than cny other part of the world. GOWNS AND COAT ORDERED FOR A jjlj CURVES. NO. Ill SWAYING XJICE A the movement with some force. This ex ercises the shoulders. Almost everybody has a low shoulder. This Is caused In various ways. Certain FAMOUS . MOUNTMELLICK EMBROIDERY It Is Leading Just Now Among the Fancy Work of the Day JT MONG the especially favored embroi r deries of the day is Mountmellick. This style of embroidery originated In the town of Mt. Melllck, Ireland, and has since been Introduced throughout the world, continually Increasing in popu larity. Durability is one of its chief rec ommendations, and, while apparently elaborate. It is by no means beyond tho skill of the average worker. The foundation of this work Is the sat iny surfaced Mountmellick jean, so sub stantial and pretty. The wording cottons are more satisfactory than silk for the execution, and the unmercerized varie ties are preferable, as they show to better advantage against the rich surface of the foundation material. In ofder to produce a shaded effect, two sizes of cotton are generally used on the same piece of work. Bold, striking designs are employed, and the stitches may be varied to any extent of which the design will admit: still, a development of a single fancy stitch com bined with a chain or outline stitch will give good results. This suggestion ap plies generally to floral designs; conven tional designs provide ample opportunity for the display of stitches. If colors are Introduced, the brighter shades should be avoided. The one-color treatment, particularly in dull blue or green, using perhaps three shades of the same color, with a touch of white to lighten. Is very effective. Tho shades should be distributed equally, keeping the edges of the design light and the deep tones within. The border, when formed LENOX HOUSE TARTY. FLOWER MOVED BY THE WIND, muscles are contracted In walking, or one shoulder is held higher than the other, or the head is carried a little to one side. Often this one-sldedness is the result of of scallops, is done in the palest shade and heavily underlaid. For purposes other than dinner table adosnment a foundation of colored linen is sometimes selected, the whole being worked In heavy white thread. This com bination Is attractive and serviceable, and especially adapted to cushions, portieres or bedspreads for cottage use. A handsome centerpiece of Mountmel lick measures 27 Inches In diameter. The foundation is white jean, and thread Is here selected for the working, but silk may be used with good results. Oppor tunity is given In the bold, conventional design for a display of stitches. So dis tinctly are the stitches marked on the linen that no dlfllculty should vbe experi enced in reproducing- them; however, i description of several may prove help- llll. The couching stitch is selected to cover several of the larger spaces. For this stitch use the heavy thread, placing tho lines in single Ion? stitches one-half inch apart, covering the figure; cross them, di agonally in equal measurements, forming diamonds. Each diamond is Caught at the intersection with a straight stitch of the finer thread. A decoration of French knots, crosses or bullion stitches may be placed In fours In symmetrical arrange ment at each joining or in tho threads. Anoteher stitch employed is designated as the brick stitch. Evenly place along side of each other three straight, heavy threads, repeating every quarter of an Inch until the space Is entirely covered; bisect with short horizontal lines to cover the stamping; pull the needle out and thrust It through at the oujer point of seemingly trifling habits, like leaning to one e4do while sitting. To correct a want of uniformity In tha shoulders. In addition to the exercisa sug gested, several times during the day raisa the low shoulder slowly but strongly and as high as possible, holding it there whila counting ten. Then lower slowly. Th'la will by degrees Increase the heisht of tha shoulder. A shoulder may be too high as well as too low. In such a case draw the high shoulder down, keeping it so for a few mo ments. Practice thl3 at intervals during; the day. Although there may bo no Inequality In the shoulders. It Is nevertheless good ex ercise to raise and lower the shoulders simultaneously. This not only develops the muscles, strengthening them if they are weak, but lifts up the upper ribs so that the upper portion of the cavity of the chest is enlarged and activity of res piration promoted. Before practicing these athletics, learn to stand properly that Is, squarely upon both feet, or with the weight evenly bal anced upon the -feet, although It is not necessary to stand with the heels to gether. Draw the knees In firmly, but do not hold them tensely; draw the hips well back and contract the abdominal muscles. The chest must be thrown out. and then the shoulders will drop down and back as they should. The next step is to raise the head slight ly and then draw in the chin. The maid of today also knows that the secret of grace is to teach every joint of the body to bend as much as It can. and that the curves' that most bewitch the eye are made by sideway movements and attitudes, which always please more than those forward or backward. By taking thought and making Intelli gent use of the knowledge of athletics, she teaches her body to acquire the wil lowy grace of a swaying orchid. Swaying back and forth does not mean exaggerated bending at the waist, but taking correct standing position Imagin ing, In fact, that one Is a flower swayed, back and forth by the wind. The weight of the body must be well oft the heels, and on the balls of the feet. If the body can then move easily to and fro, from, the feet up, the posture Is correct. In this way physical buoyancy and lithe, melodious movements are acquired. Many women, although beautiful of fea ture, are not creatures of curve and grace, and they fail to charm, while a compara tively plain woman with an erect, sup ple figure has a. great power of attractive ness. The svelte form possesses the "sw:et, attractive kind of grace" of which tho poets sang, and with its exquisite curves of lithe and shapely limbs has a charm to which a beautiful complexion, limpid eyes and tresses of "burnished raven'a wing" or molten gold cannot lay claim. KATHERINE MORTON. the grain to the under side. Repeat the stamping on the opposite side of tho grain. Continue until the wheat head is completed. Cotton in two weights is needed for the edge of the ribbon, the heavy being couched down with the fine. A herring bone stitch decorates between the line3 of the couching. When a touch of color is desired, select -two shades of green, using the lighter to couch the white edge oT the ribbon and the darker for the fancy stitching. Fin ish in a similar manner to the center piece aboe described. FOURTH OF JULY FUN FOR GROWN FOLKS "HE small boy Is not the only person who can enjoy the glorious Fourth. Hl3 grown-up sisters can have a novel celebration in honor of the day. Four girls can club together and give a four- course patriotic tea party, one course being served at the home of each of the girls. This Is the way it is done: The Invitations bear watercolor pictures of flags, cannons or firecrackers. A farmer's hay wagon, gaily decorated with flags, carries the guests from place to place, and they are given horn3 and packs of firecrackers with which to herald their coming. At the first house, after the formalities of reception are over, the hostess leads the way into the dining-room. Here th color scheme must be red. In the cen ter of the table a pan is placed in a nest ol foliage, the top covered with a wire net ting in which there stands erect, as II growing, the reddest of red poppies. Scattered hero and there in low bawls ara bouquets of popples intermingled wltn tapers of the same tint and dishes of red radishes, their green leaves surrounded by plenty of Ice. The edge of the cloth is draped with narrow red ribbon with firecrackers tied at regular Intervals. Ribbon strings of firecrackers hang from the chandelier In festoons. Beside every plate there stands bonbon box of imitation firecrackers, with the name and date in gilt, and also a booklet tied with red ribbon. The food takes the color of tho decora tions. First comes grape fruit cut into halves, the rough part removed and then the fruit sweetened, flavored and gar nished with chilled luscious red cherries. This Is followed by red tomato bouillon in crystal glasses, showing the rich eoler inside. After about half an hour, the time limit at each house, the sound of belle, reports of crackers and blowing- of horns an nounce that the crowd is expected to pro ceed to table No. 2. Here the predominant note of color is white. The long table is covered with spotless linen, ornamented with whit roses. Over the table hangs a liberty bell made of wire, twined with foliage and white flowers, the clapper being formed of white roses. The. eatables are creamed chicken, rice croquets, cottage cheese, hot rolls, olives, and pineapple, cut into dice. Iced lem onade should also be served. The souven irs are drum bonbon boxes filled with round candies twisted in white tissue pa per to represent torpedoes. Dining-room No. 3 Is a fairy land of blue flowers and green vines. The mantel and fireplace are banked with ferns and blue sweet flags, and the chandelier twined with feathery asparagus and blue forget-me-nots. In the center of the table, on a mirror wreathed with vines, stands a floral -ship of forget-me-nots. On every plate there is a little blue print of the man or woman who is to Bit there. Fruit salad is served in paper cases with blue tinted lining, and also sandwiches rolled, and tledwith blue-tinted ribbons. The fourth table, red, white and blue. Is placed on a porch brilliantly Illuminated, with colored lights. The visitors find plenty, of easy chairs, cushions and couches awaiting them. Tri-colored ice cream, angel food and iced Russian tea are served from a table gaily dressed- with flags. The last place is a delightfully roomy barn. For awhile King Gunpow der holds full sway on the grounds out side. Then the evening closes with & lively barn dance. Isolated. Doctoi-'What you need Is absolute quiet. Catterson Then I'll so and visit a certain friend of mine. Doctor Are you sure yoa will ba undisturbed? Catterson Abso lutely He was a hero of the Spaakh War. "Harper's "Bazar, .