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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 7, 1903)
THE SUNDAY OREGONIAIS, PORTIMTD; JUNE 7, 1903L - 37, BEW7VRE. OF THE IM'P'ROPE'R USE OF THE HANT) MIKKCR KO. Ill NOR SOLD MIRROR LOW OR DOUBLE CHIN 3IAY APPEAR. NO. I IT ENCOURAGES WRINKLES TO SCOWL LIKE Till 5. THE hand mirror is responsible lor more wrinkles than -woman's hered itary enemy, time. Do you doubt the -truth of this state ment? Just -watch a friend when she Questions with her looking-glass. And In that sincere crystal seeks to get a side light on her back hair, for example, or to view the effect of a rose placed low in her coiffure. You will And her brow distorted by an ugly scowl, or her mouth twisted out of all shape by her grimaces. Narcissus never would have fallen In love with his reflection in the glassy sur face of the deep pool if distortions of this kind had been necessary. It never occurs to milady, until perhaps too late, that the Medusalike faces she thinks It necessary to adopt every time she takes up a hand glass are laying the foundation for strong, tleep wrinkles, and that still greater facial disaster, the dou ble chin. A charming face may soon become pre maturely aged In this way. unless a word of caution is given and heeded. "Thy lady love may deceive thee by the brightness of her eyes, her glossy hair, her white teeth, or her damask cheek, but look you and count the wrinkles at her temples. Count ten years for every long and one year for every short fur row." Thus runs a Spanish proverb. The proverb, however, is not always true. A maiden of 21, by unfortunate use of her looking-glass, may acquire wrin kles, both long and short, and age have nothing whatever to do with It- The mirror, on the other hand, may be used to soften, rather than harden, the .face. It may be better even than balms, unguents and massage rollers, if used for spiritual or mental gymnastics. Look at yourself. If the corners of your mouth are drawn and you are an un- NO. II DON'T" DRAW THE MOUTH OUT OP SHAPE. happy-looking object, elevate your ex pression. Think of the pleasantest things that ever happened to you; the kindest thing that was ever done for you; the merriest time you ever had in your life. Send out the most generous, the sweet est, the' most helpful thought you over can think to your friends, and if your face is not softened more charmingly than ever a wrinkle rubber could make it, then you have not thought strongly, buoyantly or generously. After reducing the use of the mirror to an exact science, as regards the complex Ion, learning how to use but not to abuse it, and how to make It a help towards acquiring a beautiful expression, take up the study of the pillow. It, too, Increases the tendency to wrinkles. Cuddle down to sleep upon, a feather pillow, and notice how it increases the furrows around the eyes. One, two. three, four never mind how many wrinkles appear under and at the corners of the eyes. It Is marvelous to notice how the pillow pressed and deep ened the furrows about the temple that ,were not noticeable before. This experiment may be easily tried and noted by means of a hand glass. "What is the remedy suggested? Simply to substitute a flat pillow of curled hair, or a Mttle block like that used by a Jap anese woman. Her satinlike skin is due to her manner of sleeping with a little wooden, block under her head. The block is partly to protect her elaborate coiffure, and, It may be mentioned, that Is why she has auch luxuriant hair. It is never heat ed by a noxious pillow. It may seem heroic treatment, hut the block pillow works beautifully. Place It under the neck, and you will even enjoy the position. There will be so little strain on the facial muscles that they will not be distorted, and perfect placidity of the features may bo maintained throughout the night. In reality, the block .pillow Is a fad of a few fashionable women, and they have become so enamored of it that they are putting their children to sleep upon the mattress only, without any pillow, pre paratory to the block being used later. The use of mlrrows and pillows having been regulated with due regard to wrin kles and fadal muscles, there is .still an other matter for the beauty-seeker's con sideration. To prevent wrinkles about the eyes and to keep the 'skin fresh and smooth, affect the innocent,, round-eyed wonderment style of facial expression. The very act of thus opening widely the upper lid draws the skin about the Jower part of the eye taut and smooth. It Is to this end that Turkish mothers have the muscle at the corner of their girl babies eyes cut, at once securing wide eye3 and future freedom from crow's feet. This wide-eyed appearance goes well with the present style of old-fashioned draperies. Bending the head slightly ob viates the staring appearance which might otherwise be given the eyes, and opening them shyly gives the fawnlike look which Is not unbecoming to young girls. If heed were only, paid to some of these simple matters, we should not have the question asked, "Why do women look aged prematurely?' Nor have poeta write In pessimistic vein: . "AM then too late close In your - chambee keeping. It will bo told , That you aro old, .r1 By those, true tears you're weeping." KATHERIXE STOBTON". MEW NEGLIGEE 7VRE "RESPLENDENT IN AANQ eOLOKS SEA GREEN AND MIST GRAY TWO OF THE TINTS THAT VIE WITH MANY SHADES OF WHITE THE NEGLIGEE WHICH 2IAY BE SEEN. DELICATELY FEMININE ARB THE NEW TEAGOWNS. ALWAYS a fascinating garment, the new negligee is now more .than ever persuasive. Of the most tropical tint sa green, mist gray, or one of the many shades of white It is ephemeral in Quality and indescribably feminine In line. In this soft feminine essence lies the chief charm of all the dainty folderols fashion has designed for Summer boudoir use. These garments have always ex pressed some such appealing sentiment. When a graceful gown is in white the poetic feeling of the new designs is also marked, especially if the sleeves are wide and flowing, as many of them are. In fact, in this department, as in all the others of dress, everything Is done to en hance the charms of the fair, and new gowns destined for the most cloistered use radiate with a delicate coquetry. No matter whether the things have been fashioned with an eye to a man's appre ciation or not, they strike the gentle note a man loves. Somewhere on the stair cases of smart country homes, through the cracks of doors supposed to be closed. It is quite safe to assume that his heart will be gladdened by the sight of them. "For, after all, who does sweet"' woman dress for but man? The liberty silks employed for many of the most picturesque of the tea gowns are In colors as exquisite as novel. "Hortensia" is the title given to a deli cate shade of violet. In one Greek model this shade was trimmed with a narrow border band in gold and purple. The Greek look of this was obtained by the square-cut and flat treatment of the neck, and by the addition of a peplum jacket disposed over the gown proper, which hung from the shoulders with a closely gathered fulness. The flowing sleeves, which were shortest at the Inside arm, fell with Greek simplicity, and the border ing band was disposed around the edge of the peplum. Some Empire effects are eeen among the dressier of these gowns, and not a few have soft mull fichus, which becomingly drape open necks, and tie at the hack of the waist in regulation fichu fashion. One exquisite "slip robe," as the unique design was called, revealed the possibili ties of yellow in a marvelous blending of a half a dozen shades of this color. All the tints which He between the palest maize and wallflower yellow were used, and the gauzy silk manipulated in a way to appear shaded. Hanging from the shoulders In the usual tea-gown way, this distracting garment fell from neck to hem in Lois Fuller pleats, which is the French ! name for the finest made. Gowns in soft wools, destined for wear at cool resorts, are often lined with soft gauze silks in contrasting colors or white. A very tender and becoming shade of sage green is to be observed in some of these, as well as a magnificent shaae of liberty red called the "Morris." A certain London firm is more successful than any other firm in the world in the matter of artistic dyes, and the hest of American negligee models come from its establishment. The colors they employ owe their beauty to William Morris, and other gifted poets and artists, and more than one tea gown is an exact copy of some classic robe in a well-known picture. With definite picture effects, rich colors and stuffs are sometimes combined with Jeweled girdles and clasps, producing gor geous results, for the rose gems and unique settings used by the Arm are high ly effective. When a gown is shown off, the living model assumes the neck chain, belt, or bracelet which should he worn with it. with the result that the jewelry 1s sold as well as the garment. Some delightfully simple gowns sent over by these people and copied here In domestic stuffs, are in two or three shades of thin silk, one forming the garment, the others the trimming. The sleeves of these are large unllned puffs though, in fact, no part of such towns are lined three quarter length, and finished chiefly with a narrow cuff hand. Others have a shaped fall of silk for the sleeve finish, which is repeated "by a cape-like flounce around the cut-out neck. Only upon house garments of a preten tious nature is lace employed, and the neck and sleeve frills of . the silk used Instead show only modest edges of sel vage. Next In- importance to Ihe picturesque tea gown Is the coffee Jacket, which pre sents an appearance a little less careless, if we may employ the word. Many smart , women are now wearing this dainty little garment, which runs to unnumbered fur belows in lace and ribbon with skirts that match it in elegance Instead of the full length garment. Constituting an effect more "adjusted." as the French put it the coffee jacket may be worn on less Intimate occasions than are required by negligee models. Many very pretty coats are seen in the shQps, but a woman with the knack of the needle will do well to fashion hers at home, as ready-made fineries are always expensive. It is only the indispensable garments sanctioned by custom and pro vided in large numbers which are cheap. In form the approved coffee or teacoat is a sort of flouncing bodice. It is only waist length, with deep lace, embroidery frills falling from square, pointed or round yoke effects. The sleoves are elaborately picturesque, generally falling away from bare arms to disclose dimples and brace lets. The neck is cut out as much as propriety and afternoon will allow. All the soft silks, batistes and nets in the market may be used for them, and if the tea-pouring Is a modest occasion the simplest batistes may be employed. A society girl who" Is to summer at the seashore has provided 'herself with three charming coffee jackets, which cost all told $6. They ore made of striped dimity in pale yellow, azalea pink, and azure white point d'esprit. The trimming Is edg ing at S cents the yard. It Is put on the edges of the frills, which are in clusters at the top, and this butterfly prettiness is worn with white duck and pique skirts. The gjrl calls her delicious and inexpensive finery "hot weather duds." For footwear she has bought Igllsl sandals of tan leather. Remember these wonderful foot coverings if you have small feet to shoe, for no healthier shoes can be found in the world. In the most pretentious quarters of London elegantly dressed children go by with the bare skin of their small feet only covered by sandal straps, and their legs entirely bare. These sandals are sold at several of the good shops In New York. But to return to our mutton negligees and the lesser splendors that come under that head. Kimona gowns and sacques of crinkled cotton crepe and of plain and figured wools in gauzy qualities are to be had in all the shops at moderately low prices. Flowered and striped wash ribbons. In dainty Watteau and pompadour designs, border them prettily around the neck and sleeves, where such modes are alone trimmed. Philippine suiting and, tissues thin cotton weaves somewhat like cheese cloth in quality compose some of the odd kimonas. They are decorated with bands of a similar material In a contrasting ef fectplain bands with figured textiles or figured borders with plain bands. These imported cottons are new to the country, and they show the brilliant vege table dyes employed alone In the Philip pines. The most gorgeous yellows, blues and reds wash without losing a tinge of their brilliancy. Some of the tints, espe cially a deep blue on the Mazarine order, are Indescribably rich. Upon coarse straw hats, intended for rough country wear, scarfs and bands of the Philippine tissues are sometimes seen. Headgear thus decorated is, of course, considered very modest, but the smart world has indorsed the Philippine stuffs of all sorts. A dame who might buy and sell her neighbor wears the gadzy cot tons of the. Oriental peasant, while the neighbor disports herself In the silks and satins which are supposed to indicate gen tility. Another hot weather wrinkle comes from the Philippines i nthe shape of bedroom slippers. In that land of perpetual sun shine, ladies of exalted station think noth ing of going out with bard feet thrust into slippers without heel or heel-piece. These slippers are held on merely by the vamp, which ends in a blunt point. They are spelled "chenilles" and jronounced quite differently. Those worn by the common Philippine women are of coarse carpet stuffs and gaudy flowered velvets, which are warranted to last a lifetime. But the great lady has her little "chenilles" of the finest satins and silks with rich embroid eries of lace medallions appllqued on. Such slippers, and others of his own In vention, the American merchant now offers for bedroom use In the "dog days." One of the inventions is a slipper of thin French kid of correct "chenille shape" in delicate pastel shades. These make a charming accompaniment to a gown of the same color. MARY DEAN. WAYS OF USING ROSE LEAVES WITH the blooming of roses the woman who keeps abreast of the times is on the alert to gather In every leaf of the fragrant harvest. From time Immemorial the Orientals have utilized roses for their choicest sweets and con fectlonst and for their perfumes and fla vors. Our great grandmothers were adepts in the preparation of rose flavors and pot pourris, but the modern woman has been slow in awakening to their pos sibilities. The rose pillow is now esteemed the acme of daintiness for the riew baby's carriage or the bride's outfit. To collect a sufflclent supply, make a systematic tour of the garden each morn ing while the dew is still on, provided with basket and shears. Select the roses whose petals are ready to fall, shake Into the basket, snip off the denuded stem and throw it away. Carry the fragrant burden to the garret or spare room, where pa pers have been spread upon the floor, and and empty the petals upon them. Stir and turn every day until perfectly dry, trans ferring to bags when that is accomplished. When a sufflclent amount of petals has been collected, put in pretty cases made of fine hemstitched handkerchiefs fagotted together, through which white or rose colored ribbon may be run. These wash beautifully. If something more elaborate is desirable, a bolting cloth cover, em broidered or hand-painted with roses, is dainty and effective. For rose syrup, collect fresh petals each morning and spread on a tray to dry. When enough have, been collected .for a tumbler of preserve, jut in a fresh gran ite of porcelain kettle with Just enough water to cover, and simmer until tender. Add sugar in the proportion of a pound to each pint of the leaves and water, and cook to a rich syrup. The Turkish wom en frequently use honey in place of sugar; one-half pound, of the honey equalling a pound of sugar. This syrup gives a delicious flavor to a pudding sauce or mince meat, or it may be utilized as a sweet at a Turkish tea. Pour in glasses and seal. To secure rose flavoring, fill a wide mouthed bottle with fresh petals, packing them down as tight as possible. Then pour over them enough, alcohol to sub merge. xvicher and stronger Is rose brandy. Fill a glass Jar with fragrant petals and cov er with French brandy. Next pour oft the brandy, take out the leaves and. replace with fresh ones. Return the brandy. Do this several times, until the brandy Is strongly impregnated. Then strain and bottle tightly. Keep the can covered dur ing the distillation process. The petals of the yellow rose Infused In boiling water furnish a delicate dye, which is attractive1 with old-fashioned rose desserts and for home-made candy. To make candled rose leaves, gather fresh leaves and spread them on an in verted sieve or oiled paper in the open air until slightly dry, but not. crisp. Make a syrup, using a half-pint of water and a half-pound of granulated sugar, and boll until it spins a thread. Dip each roso leaf in this syrup, using a hat pin or fine wire. Then lay back In place. After sev eral hours, melt a half cupful of fondant, add two or three drops of essence of rose, a drop of cochineal to color, and a few drops of water to thin. Dip the leaves in this one by one, sprinkle with crystalized sugar, and return to the oiled paper to harden. Lead, Kindly Light. John Henry Newman was born in Lon don In 1S01. and his 91 years on earth were years' of love and truth. He was or dained as a priest in the Episcopal Church in 1834, and in the following year his friend. Dr. Whately. having been ap pointed head of St. Alban's Hall. New man was by him selected as vice-principal. He was one of the most active in commencing and carrying on the so-called Oxford movement the great object of which was to counteract as well the Ro manizing as the dissenting tendencies of the time by restoring and bringing Into notice what Newman and his friends be lieved to be the Catholic character of the English Church. With this view he com menced, in 1SS3, the series known as the Oxford tracts, to which he was himself one of the chief contributors; and. la 1S3S he also became editor of the British-Critic- In October, 1S54, he was admitted Into- the Roman Catholic Church, a step which was immediately followed by the publication of a work on the "Develop--ment of Doctrine." Soon afterward New man repaired to Rome, where, after soma preparation, he was admitted to order in the Roman Church, and In ISIS, on his re turn to England, he established a branch of the Congregation of the Oratory of St. Philip Neri, of which he himself was ap- pointed the superior. In 1832 be was ap- pointed rector of the Catholic university established in Dublin, and in 1879 he was made a cardinal by Pope Leo XIII. Cardinal Newman was a voluminous; writer, his printed books numbering near ly 40. Of his poetry the hymn or prayee known as "Lead, Kindly Light," written while sailing on the Mediterranean Sea. is probably the best known. It was an outburst of an earnest heart looking for light. He had just been in Rome and was still in doubt as to certain points in the new cause he had taken up. Tha words of this beautiful hymn aro as fol lows: Lead, Kindly Light, amid tha encircling gloom Lead thou zne on; The- ntcht is dark and I am fas away frotn homo. Lead thou ma on; j Keep thou my feet I do not ask to tee 'i Tea distant scene; cad step enough for ma. I was not ever thus, nor prayed that Hum i Shonldst lead me on; J I lore to choose and see my path, bat sow Lead thou zne on; I love the gornlsa day, and, splta of fears. Pride ruled my -will; remember not past years. So long thy power baa blessed mm, sur ifc still Will lead me on O'er moor and fen, o'er crag and torrent, tin The night is gone-. And with the mora those sagel faces emtio Whom I have loved Iocs since sad lost awhlta. , This has been set to music and given a deserved place in many of the Protest--ant hymnals. Tito recently appointed board on the National trophy rlfla contests recommends that tha schoolchildren throughout the United States be given small arms practice. Dr. F. P. Noble says that "No follower oC scientific progress has ever taken a locoaotiva Into Africa before rrtfctilonsrtas ted pc 3$&r4' tb war'