Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 7, 1903)
3G THE SUNDAY .OBEGONIAN, PORTLAND, JUNE 7, 1903. SIMPLieiTU THE KEyTNOTE OF fRAVELlNG TOILETTES THE LONG COAT IS THE FAVORITE GARMENT NEW STYLE WATERPROOFS --" fe; ' " DESPITE THIS FEATURE, HOWEVER, THEY HAVE m Mbtf. PLENTY OF DISTINCTION lOW that traveling .days are near. It behooves every woman to see that there Is something more substantial In her Summer wardrobe than frills and furbelows. The picturesque hat, the dain ty white lace coat, and the filmy Summer dress are sadly out of place for even a journey of a few hours. A long coat will cover a multitude of sins, and therefore will be in favor for either a short or a long journey. In the choice of fabric care should be taken to choose that which will not show dust and whjch may readily be cleaned. Unless a sea voyage is contemplated, light-weight coats will be found most serviceable, and rainproof materials will be Invaluable. The waterproof garment will be the fa vorite for traveling with many women. Besides the cravenette rain coat, the old fashioned waterproof is to be seen, but it Is unlike the dingy chrysalis which once bore that name. The up-to-date water proof has. a silky finish and is almost as gaily colored as the wings of a butterfly. AH the tartan plaids and many other plaids and stripes are obtainable. Some are made with hoods, others with mili tary capes. The majority are trimmed with bands of solid color. A brown and white plaid, trimmed with a broad band of brown both down the front and as a finish for the triple shoulder capes, makes a stylish traveling garment. Then there are 6llk coats lined with rubber, which are both dressy and serviceable. Pongee and other light linen colored fabrics are most suitable for the long coats, -whether full length or three-quarters. Most of them are loose affairs, belt ed in at the waist for the sake of freedom of motion. Their studied simplicity Is in striking contrast to the pongee dress coats. Lace and embroideries are entirely out of place on the traveling coat, and stitched bands of the same or contrast ing colors, or colored pipings, are the only suitable trimmings. One loose pongee traveling and coaching coat has medium-sired black, velvet but tons and a deep turn-over collar and cuffs of black velvet. The contrast between the silky pongee, and the dull tone of the velvet Is striking. Among the three-quarter length coats the tight-fitting corset model is the most stylish. Although tan covert cloth seems to be the favorite fabric, the woman in search of novelty finds the style applica ble to other materials and shades. A three-quarter length coat made after the corset model has the seams strapped with bands of black cloth of a dull fin ifh. Another of black mohair has strap pings of black silk. It Is predicted that strappings of a contrasting color will be used as the season advances, but so far it is only hearsay, excepting, perhaps, the corset coats of Inn with strappings of leather in a slightly darker shade. For the woman who eschews long coats a traveling suit Is necessary. Short skirts not the ballet type In vogue a season or two ago, but modest skirts which escape the ground only by an inch or two are the most serviceable. Yet, since to some minds the aversion to short skirts is in surmountable, long .skirts are eminently correct even for traveling. It is quite true that the skirt coats now so fashion able look far better with a long skirt. The simplicity of the traveling dress is as studied as that of the traveling coat. Light-weight cheviots, mohairs, pongee and linen-colored linens are the favorite fabrics. Pipings and stitched bands fur nish the only acceptable trimmings. The traveling dress relies for effect on Its cut; Hot on Its ornamentation. A stylish traveling suit Is of light green cheviot shot with white. Narrow vertical tucks give a panel effect to the front of the long slightly flaring skirt. The tight fitting coat blouses slightly in the front. It has a moderately deep sklrtvand is belt ed in at the waist. Tucks similar to those on the skirt, and black velvet buttons form the trimming down the front. There is a -turn-over collar of the velvet gsx nlshed at intervals with the buttons. Ths sleeve flares slightly to. the wrist over an Inner sleeve of the material. It is orna mented with several wide vertical tucks garnished with the small black velvet buttons. The Inner sleeve has a cuff of the velvet. A cooler traveling dress is of gray bas-ket-weavo cotton cheviot. The tight-fitting waist is laid In deep vertical tucks, each piped with black silk. Ithas a skirt on the waist, running half way down to way down to give a flare, the knees. The tucks are released half Sun -plaiting Is popular In the short skirt traveling suits. Such a skirt is be coming even to a woman who Is blessed with embonpoint. If use is made of the hip yoke. A stylish traveling suit is of black and white check silk. The skirt has a hip yoke running down to a slight point In the front. The skirt is plaited below this. A simple shirtwaist of the checked silk and a short round jacket of black taffeta is worn with this. The traveling hat is important, for it may make or mar the costume. The days are past when an old hat was considered "plenty good enough for traveling." The smartest millinery shops ' are filled with hats designed exclusively for use with a traveling toilet. They are simple, but they have a style all their own. Panama hats in the crush shapes that were popular last year are still correct for traveling wear. They are trimmed with scarfs of Indian muslin, loosely tied about the crown. Scarfs of coarse weave net ting of dull green, red, blue or tan are also stylish. The stitched linen hat has come into unexpected prominence. To the womai who desires to be exclusive, it has th( charm of being made to order to suli each costume. "When worn with a linen traveling suit it is bound with the sama; material which is used for the suit strap Ping. If these simpler models do not suit any individual woman, she has, a wide range of more elaborate headgear from which tQ choose. But she must see to it that her choice does not violate the 'rules of traveling simplicity. Toques and turban effects are the most practical. Flowers and plumes must be avoided, and rib bons and quills form the only trimmings. Champagne and ecrue are favorite colors in straw. Made hats are much in favor with women of fashion. A stylish traveling toque is of black and white chrysanthe mum straw. A flat bow of the straw" mixed with black velvet ribbon orna ments the left side. HARRIET HAWLEY. A BATCH OF CHERRYTIME RECIPES 'ROM the time that a sudden burst of bloom transforms the bare branches of the garden cherry tree Into a bil lowy mass of fragrance until the last dead ripe cluster of fruit is gleaned from the topmost branch by bird or boy. the cherry is a delight to eye and palate alike. First in the list of fresh fruit desserts stands the cherry pie. A deep tin should be used for cherry as well as all other juicy fruit pies, whose tendency is to run over during the baking. Line with a good crust, put in a layer of cherries, the tart ones preferred, sprinkle generously with sugar, dust with just a trifle of corn starch or flour, wet the rim with cold water and cover the top crust. Eat cold or hot with sugar sifted over the top. A strip of clean cloth wrung out of cold water and bound around the edge of the pie just before putting It into the over will prevent the loss of the rich, delicious juice which is its characteristic The flour and water hold the cloth in place until the pie Is baked, when It can be pulled off without injuring the pie. Cherry Itolj--Poly. Make & light paste as for apple dum plings, roll in an oblong sheet. All with cherries, sprinkle with sugar and roll closely, folding the end over to preserve the syrup. Boll in a pudding bag for an hour and a half and serve with hot, sweet sauce. Cherry DnniplinRH May be either baked or boiled. For the former make a light biscuit crust after the receipt that comes with the baking pow der. Roll the dough out a quarter of an inch in thickness and cut in squares large enough to hold several cherries, stoned or not. as preferred. Sweeten, dust with flour, and fold the pastry over the fruit, lapping the four corners at the top and Pressing down firmly. Place in a well greased baking pan and bake In a moder ate oven. Serve with liquid sauce. For the boiled dumpling, make a thick batter of two cupfuls of flour, a table spoonful of butter and one of sugar, two eggs, one cupful of milk or water, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder -and one cupful of pitted cherries. Have ready a kettle of boiling salted water and drop the mixture in by t&bleapoonfuls, taking care that the water does not stop boil ing. Cover closely and boll 12 minutes without lifting the cover. Lift carefully on to a hot dish and serve at once with a sauce made by creaming together one tablespoonful of butter and one scant cup of sugar. Add gradually one beaten egg and half cupful mixed cherry and lemon juice, beating constantly. Tapioca. Cherries. "Wash one cupful of pearl tapioca through several waters, cover with cold water, and soak over night. In the morn ing put over the fire In a double boiler with one pint of boiling water and sim mer slowly until the tapioca Is perfectly clear. Pit" V& pounds of sour cherries, stir with the boiling tapioca and sweeten to taste. Take from the Are, turn into the dish from which It is to be served, and eet away if cool. Serve cold with cream. This receipt makes enough for eight per sons. Cherry Charlotte. Pit fresh cherries to make a quart, sweeten, and put in a basin on the back of the range to heat. Butter some slices of light stale bread, first trimming off the crust. Butter a pudding dish, and fit a layer of buttered bread on the bottom. Pour over it some of the hot fruit. Re peat until the dleh is full. Let it stand until thoroughly cold with a weight on the top. Turn out and serve with cream. Cherry Pudding-. This is easily made and proves as satis factory as many a more elaborate des sert. Put pitted and sweetened cherries an inch or so deep in the bottom of a buttered pudding dish and cover with the following mixture: One cupful of sugar beaten to a cream, with two tableopoon f uls of butter, one egg, one cupful of milk, two cupfuls of flour and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Flavor with a bit of nutmeg or lemon. Bake, turn from the dish and serve with warm, sweet sauce. Cherry Panch. Stem and pit three pounds of cherries, saving the pits to cook with the cherries In three quarts of boiling water. Cover and set on the back of the range, where they should be allowed to simmer slow ly for two or three hours. Turn into a jelly bag and allew them lo drip until all the juice has -passed through that will without squeezing. Make a syrup of three cups of sugar and the same amount of water, boll ten minutes, add the cherry Juice, cook Ave minutes longer, and put In a cold place. Serve with a little cracked- Ice and two or three fresh cher ries in each glass. Pickled Cherries. Boll together one quart of vinegar, two pounds of sugar, one-half ounce each of cinnamon, cloves and mace, the spices be ing tied In a thin muslin bag. Pour this while scalding hot over five pounds of large perfect cherries on the stem and seal. Cherry Vinegar. Put two quarts of cherries In a large earthen bowl, mash slightly and pour over them one quart of vinegar. Cover and set in a cool place for two days. Strain through a muslin bag, and -to each pint of juice allow three-fourths pound of sugar. Phce over the fire and scald for 15 minutes. 8ain, set aside 15 minutes to cool, and tAen bottle. Diluted, this makes, a refreshing Summer drink. Cherry Salad Cherry salad Is made in various ways. It may be simply ripe eour cherries pitted and served with a French dressing. It may consist of cherries and nuts, cher ries and currants, cherries and bananas, or cherries and strawberries. It may be dressed with wine and sugar, fruit Juice and sugar, or with a dressing made by beating together the yolks of four eggs until lemon colored and smooth, .adding slowly a cupful of sugar and one-halt tea spoonful of salt. Have ready the strained juice of two lemons. Stir in and pour at once over the. salad. Cherry Ice. Bruiao & quart of cherries with their pita In a mortar. Squeere through a jelly bag. and add to the juice a pint of sugar, a pint of water, the juice of two lemons and a wineglass of brandy. This juice re quires longer to freeze than ordinary Ices on account of the brandy. Crystallized Cherries; Select plump,, perfect cherries, leaving them on the stem. Dip first Into the beaiea' white cf an egg, then Into pow dered sugar, and place In a warm oven to dry ior five or ten minutes. Then set away in a cool, dry place until served. Cherry Soup Cherry soup is one of the delights of the season. Cook soft, mash, add sutfl plent "water with a little thickening, sugar and spice. The soup may be served hot or cold. BEAUTY DONTS DON'T expect children to be beautiful unless healthy, happy and contented. This, indeed, goes far towards making them lovely. Don't think too much time can be de voted to physical development. In noth ing is It of more Importance to take time by the forelock. Don't let children sit without support to their backs; and encourage them to rest their spines by lying back In a chair. Once a day make both boys and girls lie flat on the floor for half an hour. This will make fine figures. Don't give children chairs that are soft tind low In the middle, or their necks will be certain to sink within their shoulders, and their figures become distorted. Don't let them eit still too long at a time; if they do, they will fidget, move restlessly from side to side, and take atti tudes which may make them grow crooked. Don't let a stooping lesson, such as writing or drawing, end without some simple arm exercises. Don't have heavy curtains at bedroom windows; let the sunshine pour in. Don't paper bedroom walls; paper catches all floating gases. Finish the walls with some non-absorbent material. Dqn't have any carpets on bedroom floors; use rugs instead. Have few hang ings and little bric-a-brac. x Don't let them spend any more time in the bedroom than is absolutely neces sary. Don't allow a child to sleep with an older person. Don't give a child a harsh rub after a bath. Drying should be done carefully with a soft towel; there should be a warm "rub" in the morning and a quick sponge bath at night Don't comb a child's hair too much. Brush carefully with a soft brush. Don't coax a child to eat. Lack ot ap petite often indicates lack of nectselty. UNIQUE PORCH ENTERTAINMENTS ."TB of tho most unique and pleasant modes of Summer entertaining has been evolved from the "brains of a few clever women blessed with original ity and adaptability to all conditions of living. Unless one is the fortunate possessor of a large and picturesque lawn, a home party in the open air seems out of the question. Yet the typical Indoor affair, with piano playing, lco cream, cake, desul tory dancing and eard playing, has be come altogether an old story, and a thing not to be desired on a warm, dreamy, midsummer evening. But If you have a porch, and clever fin gers to decorate it, you may give a pretty and pleasant outdoor party, even If you do not possess a square inch of grass around the house. Of course, there aro porches and porches. In fact; there are porches, verandas and plain, every-day stoops. The stoop is out of the question, because on a- moonlit night it only takes two to make a successful party. Even a Chinese lantern would be de trop. If you live in a whole house, with a large veranda attached, invite all the guests you want. The overflow will sit on the steps and railings, and think it all the more fun. Chinese and Japanese lan terns are ''the first essentials. The toy ones, which can be bought for 10 cents or 15 cents a dozeiv are pretty to string on cords and loop overhead, while the large ones may be hung between the posts. Beg, borrow or steal a few palms or rubber plants. They are cool and decorat ive, but put them in places where no one will stumble over them. Flowering olean ders or azaleas look well in the soft light, and some climbing vines on the outside will transform your porch into a veritable fairy bower. One woman, who lives in the suburbs and had no chance of getting any palms or plants, gathered loose bunches of sweet clover and .palled them around the top of the porch and In the corners. The effect was delightful, and the faint, sweet fragrance added & rustic charm. One corner should be utilized for the re freshment table. Place It conveniently near an open window, so that the jdishes jnag he xaseed In and out of It. and .tho avoid going around among' the guests. The table should either have a. pretty girl in. attendance or "run itself in buffet style. Ice cream, cake and sandwiches are the standard eatables, but variation is possible, especially with the sand wiches. It is-best to choose filllng3 that are easily kept cool. Deviled yolks of eggs on lettuce are dainty, or ham and nuts chopped together very fine, and mixed with mayonnaise, may be used. Salad sandwiches are to be preferred to plain meat, as butter Is then unneces sary. "We have all experienced plain ham or cold meat sandwiches In warm weather, with the butter in a hopeless state of liquid collapse. Iced tea should be on hand In abun dance. A separate, smaller table may be used for drinks. Have the tea In a large glass pitcher, flanked by a fancy bowl of loaf sugar and slices, of lemon placed In a glass dish with cracked Ice. Fruit lemonade Is delicious, Inexpensive and easy to make. Use as many oranges as you do lemons for a foundation, and add either crushed strawberries or red raspberries. The dark berries aro not good to use, as they give a bluish- color to the water, which spoils the effect. Save some of the finest berries whole to put in last. Add slices of orange, some red cherries and sprigs of green pepper mint, and you will have a tempting- bev erage for a warm night. Ices may take the place of ice cream if desired, and the menu may be varied lo suit the taste or ability of the hostess. A girl who gave a porch party to her classmates decorated entirely with wild crab-apple blossoms, and all the refresh ments were strawberries served In differ ent styles. Another, with a taste for the unique, gave a flower costume party, where each guest represented some flower. Prizes were given for the best costume, and also for the most complete list of correct guesses. One young man was de clared Ineligible because he had not com plied with the spirit of the party by coming in fancy costume, but a sharp eyed girl spied a safety-pin fastened, on the lapel of his coat, and put him down as a "bachelor's button;" In one'of the top" floor eyries of a four- story apartment hous a porch party wa$ given last July which Is to be duplicated, this year, owing to its great success. The; inhabitants of the eyrie are a. trio ot young bachelors, who long ago fled fron, boarding-houses and pitched their tent, under the flag of commonwealth. Being: under obligations to many "of the gentler sex, in the line of entertaining, they gave a flrework3 party on their back porch, and invited the girls and the most congenial of the mothers. The decorations were according to the masculine idea. Skyrockets and bunches of fireworks were festooned here' and there, and a pan of red Are burned inter mittently. From the roofing overhead dangled an assortment of Chinese curi osities, sprawling green frogs and griffins, and fat, speckled spiders, with red and gold dragons and gorgeous butterflies In terspersed. Fire balloons were set free to sail out upon the sea at night, and skyrockets and hissing Aery serpents were sent up. It does not matter what kind of a porch you have, so long as it is a porch all things are possible. Only a little ingenu ity is needed. A few hammocks may he swung where they will not be in the way, and there should be a plentiful supply of cushions ana mats. The Japanese braided grass mats are good if one has them: if not, trot out all the cosiest easy chairs you own, and don't disdain camp stools and foot rests. Try to include among your guests that blessed feature of Summer, the boy or girl who plays the mandolin or guitar, for there is no time when music has such witchery as on a moonlit Summer night, with plenty of voices to Join In the choruses. To the inodern city cliff dweller the problem is a little harder, but provided there Is a back porch tho Test Js easy. Decorate as much as possible and cut down your list of guests so that there will he no crowding. Banish the clothesline and the ashcan to the realm of the Jani tor, and let the lanterns and decorations do the rest. If the moon Is kind enough to beam on that particular night your porch party will be as succewful as yew suburban couste'g, -