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About The daily Astorian. (Astoria, Or.) 1961-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 10, 2019)
12 // COASTWEEKEND.COM COLUMBIA BAR Wandering Mountain Cider and kombucha make a potent potion. By RYAN HUME FOR COAST WEEKEND S o there is a thing — one of those viral, internet phenom- ena that invades the zeit- geist by way of Reddit or some other outlet — called Dry January, when peo- ple decide to starve off booze for 31-or-so days (I assume because they expe- rienced an opulent Happy New Year and then take a moment to repose, clear- eyed and level-headed). This is the kind of reso- lution that seems plausible, as it has an expiration date, just like a carton of milk. No need to take on gran- diose ambitions like los- ing X-number of pounds or fi nally quitting smok- ing when you can just take a month to get your mind right. It’s an honorable and downright doable project for many. In years past, this col- umn has devoted its Jan- uary messages to sim- ple cocktails, usually built around a few bumps of champagne and non-alco- holic hangover cures, like a hefty plate of biscuits and gravy, or a pour of soda water jacked with a few dashes of bitters (a common drink for bar writers who fi nd themselves in a fl eeting moment of abstinence). Shrubs, those concoc- tions of drinkable vinegar and herbs and/or fruit, pep- pers or more, like the ones produced by Pilot House Distilling’s sister company Grumpy Dog Shrub Co., is another growing market for those pursuing a Dry Jan- uary. In fact, nationwide, virgin cocktails are mak- ing an unashamed come- back as consumers reassess their needs (or how to drive home), though the North Coast and Lower Columbia still tend to favor well-en- dowed craft cocktails or a shot of Fireball and a pint, depending on where you land. This year, as the clock struck 2019 amid a govern- mental shutdown, this duti- ful reporter had no interest in chasing such lofty trends of sobriety, but did come upon a happy medium by way of the venera- ble Bridge & Tunnel Bot- tleshop & Taproom. Co-owners Dwayne and Pam Smallwood will cel- ebrate their fi rst in-busi- ness anniversary come Feb- ruary. With about 17 beers and ciders usually on tap (often including fi ve or six sours in the mix), and prob- ably the most diverse selec- tion of craft brews in bot- tles outside of Portland or any other metro area in spitting distance, this shop is incredibly knowledgeable and friendly. Case in point: On a recent visit, everyone sitting at the bar was a local brewer or distiller. This is the place that people who Ryan Hume The ‘Wandering Mountain’ at Bridge & Tunnel Bottleshop & Taproom in Astoria. make beer get their beer. Dwayne Smallwood noted in a recent conver- sation that the small block in downtown Astoria com- prising Reach Break Brew- ing, Revielle Ciderworks and Bridge & Tunnel is now starting to be called the “Duane Street Trian- gle,” though consider- ing that you could throw a stone at Fort George or Pilot House Distilling in either direction, perhaps the “Duane Street Penta- gon” should be tossed in as an alternative. Bridge & Tunnel should also be noted for their com- mitment to the local arts community: They display a new artist’s work every month on their walls and are open for Second Satur- day Art Walks in downtown Astoria. Upcoming events include the pFriem Flanders Roadshow on Wednesday, Jan. 23, which will bring one of Hood River’s most celebrated breweries out to the mouth of the Columbia River we all share. But back to that happy medium: It should be rec- ognized that Dwayne Smallwood was up to head- ing out to grab fresh orange juice once I pounced upon them unannounced, as they make beer-mosas at special events, but learning they had kombucha on tap, we wandered upon another one of their specialties. And wandering is an important part of this story: Kombucha and cider are amazing together. You cut down your ABV while introducing probiotics into the mix — it’s a kind of magical thinking while drinking. Something nearly everyone wants to do after a robust New Year. Happy medium! This 50/50 potion includes a ginger-infused kombucha from Happy Mountain, off Division Street in Portland, topped by an equal pour of Wan- dering Aengus cider, which hails from Salem. Ginger and apples have long been enemies — oh wait ... I’m wrong on that one — check a lot of desserts to see my error. But what to call it? The generous owners of Bridge & Tunnel allowed me to christen this combination as a Wandering Mountain (at the moment it is still on tap, but any cider and kombu- cha should work). WANDERING MOUNTAIN • 50 percent Wandering Aengus cider • 50 percent Happy Mountain Kombucha, ginger-infused —Recipe courtesy of Dwayne Smallwood, co-owner and proprietor of Bridge & Tunnel, Astoria, Oregon. CW
