12 // COASTWEEKEND.COM
COLUMBIA BAR
Wandering
Mountain
Cider and
kombucha make
a potent potion.
By RYAN HUME
FOR COAST WEEKEND
S
o there is a thing —
one of those viral,
internet phenom-
ena that invades the zeit-
geist by way of Reddit or
some other outlet — called
Dry January, when peo-
ple decide to starve off
booze for 31-or-so days (I
assume because they expe-
rienced an opulent Happy
New Year and then take a
moment to repose, clear-
eyed and level-headed).
This is the kind of reso-
lution that seems plausible,
as it has an expiration date,
just like a carton of milk.
No need to take on gran-
diose ambitions like los-
ing X-number of pounds
or fi nally quitting smok-
ing when you can just take
a month to get your mind
right. It’s an honorable and
downright doable project
for many.
In years past, this col-
umn has devoted its Jan-
uary messages to sim-
ple cocktails, usually built
around a few bumps of
champagne and non-alco-
holic hangover cures, like a
hefty plate of biscuits and
gravy, or a pour of soda
water jacked with a few
dashes of bitters (a common
drink for bar writers who
fi nd themselves in a fl eeting
moment of abstinence).
Shrubs, those concoc-
tions of drinkable vinegar
and herbs and/or fruit, pep-
pers or more, like the ones
produced by Pilot House
Distilling’s sister company
Grumpy Dog Shrub Co., is
another growing market for
those pursuing a Dry Jan-
uary. In fact, nationwide,
virgin cocktails are mak-
ing an unashamed come-
back as consumers reassess
their needs (or how to drive
home), though the North
Coast and Lower Columbia
still tend to favor well-en-
dowed craft cocktails or a
shot of Fireball and a pint,
depending on where you
land.
This year, as the clock
struck 2019 amid a govern-
mental shutdown, this duti-
ful reporter had no interest
in chasing such lofty trends
of sobriety, but did come
upon a happy medium
by way of the venera-
ble Bridge & Tunnel Bot-
tleshop & Taproom.
Co-owners Dwayne and
Pam Smallwood will cel-
ebrate their fi rst in-busi-
ness anniversary come Feb-
ruary. With about 17 beers
and ciders usually on tap
(often including fi ve or six
sours in the mix), and prob-
ably the most diverse selec-
tion of craft brews in bot-
tles outside of Portland or
any other metro area in
spitting distance, this shop
is incredibly knowledgeable
and friendly. Case in point:
On a recent visit, everyone
sitting at the bar was a local
brewer or distiller. This is
the place that people who
Ryan Hume
The ‘Wandering Mountain’ at Bridge & Tunnel Bottleshop & Taproom in Astoria.
make beer get their beer.
Dwayne Smallwood
noted in a recent conver-
sation that the small block
in downtown Astoria com-
prising Reach Break Brew-
ing, Revielle Ciderworks
and Bridge & Tunnel is
now starting to be called
the “Duane Street Trian-
gle,” though consider-
ing that you could throw
a stone at Fort George or
Pilot House Distilling in
either direction, perhaps
the “Duane Street Penta-
gon” should be tossed in as
an alternative.
Bridge & Tunnel should
also be noted for their com-
mitment to the local arts
community: They display
a new artist’s work every
month on their walls and
are open for Second Satur-
day Art Walks in downtown
Astoria. Upcoming events
include the pFriem Flanders
Roadshow on Wednesday,
Jan. 23, which will bring
one of Hood River’s most
celebrated breweries out to
the mouth of the Columbia
River we all share.
But back to that happy
medium: It should be rec-
ognized that Dwayne
Smallwood was up to head-
ing out to grab fresh orange
juice once I pounced upon
them unannounced, as they
make beer-mosas at special
events, but learning they
had kombucha on tap, we
wandered upon another one
of their specialties.
And wandering is an
important part of this story:
Kombucha and cider are
amazing together. You cut
down your ABV while
introducing probiotics into
the mix — it’s a kind of
magical thinking while
drinking. Something nearly
everyone wants to do after
a robust New Year. Happy
medium!
This 50/50 potion
includes a ginger-infused
kombucha from Happy
Mountain, off Division
Street in Portland, topped
by an equal pour of Wan-
dering Aengus cider, which
hails from Salem. Ginger
and apples have long been
enemies — oh wait ... I’m
wrong on that one — check
a lot of desserts to see my
error.
But what to call it? The
generous owners of Bridge
& Tunnel allowed me to
christen this combination as
a Wandering Mountain (at
the moment it is still on tap,
but any cider and kombu-
cha should work).
WANDERING
MOUNTAIN
• 50 percent Wandering
Aengus cider
• 50 percent Happy
Mountain Kombucha,
ginger-infused
—Recipe courtesy
of Dwayne Smallwood,
co-owner and proprietor of
Bridge & Tunnel, Astoria,
Oregon. CW