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About Oregon City courier. (Oregon City, Or.) 1902-1919 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 20, 1908)
6157. Ladles' Over-Waist. Cut In sizes '.2 to 42 Inches bust measure. The 36 Inch size will require VA yards of 44 Inch n.aterlal. Among the smartest of the season's modes are the over-waist effects. The one shown could form part of a cos tum of voile or broadcloth or It could be worn with the odd skirt. The front fulness Is taken up In deep pleats, and gathers at the center give extra fulness. 6961. Ladles' Skirt. Cut In sizes 22 to 32 Inches waist meas ure. The 26 Inch size will require i yards of 44 Inch material. This Is one of the most attractive of the new skirt models. It consists ui' four gores and Is laid In an Inverted box-pleat at enci side team. The design would make up stylishly In broad cloth, voile, Panama and the checked silks. 6149. Ladles' Over-Waist. Cut In sizes 32 to 42 Inches bust measure. Th 36 inch size will require 1 yards of 44 Inch material. This design for fancy over-blouse Is an excellent one Etiquette of p-l-t r-Ui. lift !:. tf f- ', 'ji. 1 ti ;-f:;r a1 l'. '.I '-r-'- !.U".ii ;t hj r- 'HV ;.: : ,.f ,.' i ( :; n,vi 1 :: ' .lie iut; t'.-v 9 , i'! t-rture r."Oi,, v.'! kl are posto.l -on the bnllnr.l!i i.ouru. if I iVt hu;i m l b'. 'n pos'l'Hl a' -llefi? Food form il p lr..rnp y i :)rrl. nu'i iim"-, ,ir fii. ant tl'Mt i:i why I t.tn i'ie. r.,; i ' isy ffiw s'JiiK'.'Stl int, far die j.rir! af tha t:fir.iu nf ui he u'ieird ier. , I' li'si. ft Freshmun must .nc.k : ny aijYBjv! exnp.'U to niombem f 'i- .- (i'."n i;Ki Kven If she happens ti, ki.ow Winn utpr-clainn.n oi.tsMt of jo : ! f? n.'.. not Uike It u.on her self to mnli" t.he fiisl itep in mmtlnulnt, the friendship. In' the college where (here are "fraternities" or similar societies the Freshman must step very carefully. She must never, never, Under any circumstance, mention one of these societies to a -nember of a society, and If by any ohance a mem ber should mention her society, the Freshman must act as If nothing had been said In some colleges It Is bad aste for a Freshman to pass the chap ter houses of these societies excepting In the company of one of their mem bers. It is also In bad taste for a Freshman to allow her eyes to rest more than .casually on the pin of mem bership, and many an unwary Fresh fnan has been branded as too "fresh" who has Innocently remarked that she liked the pin that a certain girl was wearing A Freshman who Is being "rushei," or as they say In the West "spiked," by a society Is In great danger of whqt Is known as "swelled head," and nothing Is more detrimental than this chances of "making" the society she desires. And the Freshman who Is not being "rushed" and who Is not "In with" the girls who are, must take great pains not to do what is known as "butting In." The best thing for such a girl to do. If she wishes to find favor w,lth the fraternity or society element, is to "go in" fof some college activity, theatricals, class politics, ath letics or high scholarship, and, by en thusiasm and success In her chosen line, prove her Independence and ability. An important chapter in the College girl's book 6f etiquette might be called "The College Oirl and Her Professor." Especially in a college where there are men professors many things may be said under this head. The girl who "fusses" her Instructors Is disliked even more by them than by her fellow students. It Is a grave mistake for a girl to make a point to wait after class to discuss her work with her In structor unless she has been requested to do so. A great pitfall for the unwary Freshman lies In "crushes." If a Freshman Is so fortunate as to meet the lnrarnatlon of all her Ideals of feminine grace and virtue, good form requires that she keepthe fact severely to herself. If her enthusiasm gets the better of her, if she sends her Idol violets and orchids. French bon-bons and opera tickets, she makes Welsh rarebits and fudge for her. mends her clothes and darns her stock ings and tries to imitate her mode of halrclrersing, gait and tone of voice, she is apt to lose the friendship she might otherwise gain. An Important heading under college etiquette Is "Dress." Two things ohlyj are all-important, neatness and fitness. The Freshman whose hilr always looks trim, whose shoes always are well I 0 College Life I '" ."Hi !'.., vbi never wears a discarded ' lo-m o '- n during college hours, imi ;ui1' '.v. olen frock at dinner is I I at t"wti n a thoroughbred, and is on I (-. 1'.,;! I ira..k to social success. J !t Is a t, ni.-.t mistake for a girl to liiou! .-.' her Ideas of a "typical college r-i-mi' Xhi. "Peter Tom," the Tam n if. ri d sweater may do very wv.l the c- npus of a country col- ;!:;- bat wfn a girl In a city college appears In the treet in this attire she Is In S',i,jrir 0? ailing forth the rebuke of one 0 ths wise seniors who has her Mina luster's interest at heart For the athletic RiTi, especially, there Is (treat te"-nmie!i to discard the closely fitting collar and belt and to go about In a costume that most girls outgrow at fourteen or fifteen. The suitable dress for a college girl is the dress that Is suitable for any girl of her age con structed on as simple a plan as pos sible. In most college dormitories there Is a great deal of borrowing and lending 01 clothing, jewelry, shoes, text-books and money. College etiquette does not taboo this practice, but It does taboo the disagreements that It Is apt to lead to. The tactful girl who makes It clear at the beginning that her supply of clothing, money and Jewelry la suffi cient only to satisfy her own demands, loses none of the right kind of popular ity and avoids the embarrassment of having to force the return of her right ful possessions. But the most Important chapter in the college girl's book of etiquette should be on the art of being enter taining. When s group of college girls get together they want above all things to be entertained. It is never enter taining to hear a girl boast of her high scholarship or her numerous so-called "suitors." No one wants to hear about how hard another girl Is working, how little she sleeps, how much the weather annoys her or how she "loathes" the dormitory fare. And above all things, guests do not want to hear about an other girl's family. At a college spread, when a girl begins, "Well, my mother says," "When my sister went abroad," or "That reminds me of my father's aunt," she Is generally inter rupted. The girl who can tell the pattest story, who can lead off In the latest college song; the girl who forgets her own affairs and can laugh heartily after five or six hours of hafd brain work Is the girl who obeys the most Important rule of college etiquette. MAKING SANDWICHES In making sandwiches, bear In mind that all orusts are removed with a sharp knife, and that butter Just melted but not piping hot, can be spread wltli a fine paint brush much better than firmer butter witft a knife. Also at every housefurnlshlng counter you can buy fancy cutters for making sandwiches more attractive. And last ly, sandwiches that must stand should he wrapped in moist cloths. Stuffed Green Peppers. Wash and plunge Into boiling water, simmering gently for five minutes. Drain and cut off the stem-end to remove the seeds snd partitions of soft fibre inside, leav ing bare shells. Wipe dry. and fill with minced sausage meat, flavored well with, finely chapped onion, bread crumbs, parsley and a little lemon Juice. Bake fifteen minutes, basting with melted butter or better still soup stock. for part of a costume of linen or voile, and will also serve as a separate waist. It open in front and back from shoulder waistline, the lingerie waist worn underneath showing dain tily through the openings. Satin, pongee and the pretty checked silks are all adaptable. 5931. Ladles' Box-Pleated Skirt. Cut In sizes 22 to 32 Inches waist measure. Size 26 will require 514 yards of 44 Inch material. A five gore model cut In practical round length. Box-pleats are laid in at each of the side seams, stitched down over the hips. Box-pleats are also arranged In the lower part of the skirt. Broadcloth, Panama and other seasonable suit ings are available for reproduction. 8271. Ladies' Fancy Blouse. Cut in sizes 32 to 42 inches bust measure. Size 36 will require 4 yards of 24 inch material. The design Illustrated would make up charmingly In the sheer vellin-js and soft silks. The waist Is mounted on a fitted lining and provision Is made for either high or low neck. The bre- Maddening Mixtures in Autumnal Styles SsWHE woman shopping bound needs I J to have her nerves steady and her head clear. This is a season to undo the one and unsettle the other. It Is a season of bewildering pe riods, hopelessly commingled with In describable results. And it is a season of dismaying extravagance in quanti ties and prices. Usually a woman has a fairly good Idea of what the prevailing modes will be. This season It takes the seventh daughter born with a veil at that, to tell Just which modes will survive the first onslaught of feminine shoppers. Last season the princess gown for house wear and the pleated skirt with cutaway coat led all other designs. This year there seems absolutely no leader, but an awful struggle for su premacy among a dozen modes, each of which Is equally trying to the needle of the Inexperienced home sewer. Even the most successful modistes tremble before this year's modes. Suggestions of the princess do re main, but the waist line Is raised al most to the bust, and unless this high girdle effect Is treated with Infinite care, the figure Is hopelessly shortened. Then instead of the panel and tucked or pleated effect In the gores of the princess robe, you have absolutely no pleats, and perfectly fitted skirts with a few draped effects, particularly In the front of the bodice. One thing hear In mind, the sheath skirt as exploited by the dally press is not being accepted by any one except stage managers who desire to secure startling effects In the way of costum ing. Neither will well-dressed Ameri can women wear the Dlrectolre gown generally. The sheath gown Is simply a very snug-fitting, one-pieca robe, split up on the side to disclose either the right limb enclosed in silk tights of contrasting color or an extremely diaphanous under skirt of chiffon or similar fabric which might Just as well be omitted so far as lending any re spectability to the garment No Ameri can woman or modiste Is taking this costume seriously. The Dlrectolre costume, a shapeless yet perfectly cut robe, is so tight that Its wearer has to edge along, not really walk. It Is all In one piece, with a very short waist, and (a straight line smoothly fitted over the hips. It gives the effect of being narrower around the feet than at the waist line. It is being worn by ultra-fashionable HINTS ON D".VKR pour water Into the pan 'n which you roast lamb. Bub the meat with salt and pepper and scatter flour lightly over the top. Then cover with the "leaf" of fat which comes with the roast Cover with a second pan of same size and haste with the Juices of the meat Water destroys the flavor. . When ordering Hamburger teak, select the meat Do not permit the butcher to put In tailings and dis colored scraps. Fresh rump or round Is befit Have it first ground, then laid on the neat blork and the onion chopped into It with a cleaver. To get best results In stewing chic ken according to the good old-fashlnned methods, disjoint the fowl, wipe each piece clean, and drop Into water Just women In the privacy of their home or at exclusive entertainments, but well bred women do not sport It In public places. The Dlrectolre influence, however, Is making Itself felt and this In combina tion with certain classic or Greek lines that are hard to attain. Unquestionably the-straight lines prevail, everything hag a sllmpsy. sleazy look that unless carefully and artistically attained Is absolutely dowdy, and all styles are cal culated to strike terror to the heart of the stout Woman. The fabrics are all clinging and very, very supple. Broadcloth and other cloths for house and street frocks are soft sa silk and not much thicker. All the silks and eatlns ara woven in very light weights and crumple in the hand like chiffon cloth. Plain supple silks and satins are offered for costumes to be worn for calling and even the woman who has no carriage Is using silk or satin for her autumn suit A new cord ed silk called cotole bengallne, not un like an ottoman weave, Is very popu lar for coat suits, the long shapeless Dlrectolre or Louis cqats. Chiffon moussellne, marqulesette and new Cash mere silks, the latter looking like love ly old Cashmere shawls, with a satin sheen are In great demand. Some bor dered goods are still shown but In dif ferent designs from those offered this summer, the pattern now being In flow ers of the most exquisite tonos, so woven as to simulate hand-palntlng. Practically no suitings are shown ex cept for what are known as strictly tailored costumes. Everything for house wear and calling, receptions, etc., Is either In silk or with so much silk com bined with the wool that the latter Is Invisible. The trimmings are beyond words, so rarely beautiful, so perfect In tone and handwork. Net forms the foundation of nearly all the new trimmings, and this Is either braided with soft silk sou tache or embroidered In padded stltch ery, with a few beads. For combination with white silks, satins, chiffons and marquisettes, a charming trimming In various widths shows a dot and Greek pattern combined, all In white. You cafi get the same design In all the pale and neutral colors. For combination with a brown Satin comes a net of gold silk rather dull, embroidered In soft mauve and mossy grey green, with here and there a very few gold beads. On an oyster white net was an em broidery of delicate pastel silks and opalescent beads. This trimming comes COOKING VARIOUS DISHES coming to a boll. Cover tlghtjy and set back on the stove to simmer very gently. When about half done, add salt When the meat Is Jurt ready to drop from the bone, you will And your stock greatly reduced. Add an equal quantity of milk, thicken with ftou-, and then add pepper aid parsley chop ped fine. Serve on crisp toast. . If you Intend to serve erfld ham whole, parboil and then bake it. Scrub the ham thorouRhly and soak over night In cold water. Next morning wipe off clean, lay In cold water In i granite Iron pot and bring Just to a boll. Pour off this water, add more cold and bring to a boll the second time: add a handful of bay leaves and some whole cloves. Simmer for two hours, remove from the pot peel off telleS that extend over the shoulders may be made of the ma 'ferial or oi ribbon, or they may be omitted. " 8272. Ladles' Skirt. Cut In sizes 22 to 32 Inches waist meas ure. Size 26 will require i yards of 24 inch material. This graceful skirt Is shaped by nine gores. The top Is extended In corsage effect, but if preferred it may be cut off at the regular . waistline. A suitable development may be had In pongee, voile , and net. 5962. Ladles' Blouse. Cut In sizes 32 to 42 Inches bust meas ure. Size 36 will require 2 yards of 44 Inch material. This Is one of the season's newest and prettiest designs. The low cut neck discloses a dainty chemisette which may be of dottod net or tucked chiffon. The three-quarter sleeves are prettily finished by flaring . cuffs. 8266. Ladles' Skirt. Cut In sizes 22 to 32 Inches waist meas ure. Size 26 will require B yards of 44 Inch material. This not only In banding, motifs and galoons, but It can be 'had In complete sets, forming boleros to be worn over Dl rectolre or -Empire gowns, glrdlei, sashes, etc. Not a few tasseled orna ments are offered, but little fringe Is shown. A marked feature of the fall open lngs has been, the long sleeve, which modistes are doing their best to force upon the American woman. Even some of the decollette gowns so far as shoul ders are concerned, are accompanied by the regulation Bernhardt sleeve, crlnk ly, soft and long enough to come clear down over the knuckle. The blouse shown In today's Illus trations gives a very fair idea of the application of the trimming described above, on a foundation of chiffon cloth over messaline. The odd little reveres are embroidered to match the banding. The calling costume Was drawn from a model In ottoman silk of a most beau tiful shade of peacock green with Just a touch of the same shade of green, a harmonious oyster-white and old-gold In the embroidery on collur and cuffs, The skirt, with Its high girdle coming almost to the bust line, was absolutely plain but perfectly fitted, and the coat had long points on the sides, but was cut very short In the back. The house gown of block and white messaline tells how the striped fab rica are employed as trimming. It shows also the high-cut skirt and the ublqult ous vest of shirred chiffon and ex qulsltely embroidered banding. This striped material In black and white Is very dashing but the color combination In the strip of embroidered net Is most delicate, soft pinks, blues an dead white. Tly) evening frock shows a tendency oward classic drapery. The silk Is trim med with matching fringe around the tunic and the draped bodice Is finished at the back with long streamers of the silk, trimmed with fringe. The bodice section or what was once. called gulmpe Is made from embroidered net, per fectly matching the shade of silk with Persian tones In the embroidery. A word of warning In making up all fall raiment. Avoid the conventional petticoat or drop skirt. Dressmakers still stand out for taffetas because t has body, but get a supple taffetas, and If you can Induce the lady of autocratic habits to use It. select messaline of the softest quality. Your frock must not be bouffant, but must -;Ive the effect of no lining, no petticoat, to be truly smart. the skin, lay In a dripping pan' In which you have poured a cup of water and one of sherry. Cover with bread crumbs and pepper, bake until gulden brown. Knrui!oped Tomntneat In the bottom of a baking dish put a layer of dry bread crumbs, seasoned with salt, but ter and pepper. Now add a layer of tomatoes sliced rather thick, and sea son in like manner. If the flavor of onlnn Is liked add a sli'-e or two of onion on top of the tomatoes. Tnenodl another layer of bread crumbs, and so on until the dish Is full with bread crumbs on top. Scatter butter freely through the dish, and bake In medium oven. modol shows the fashionable close adjustment at the top while the lower edge Is given extra fulness by the pleated gores that are Inserted In each of the side gores. Suitable development may be had in broadcloth, panama serge, linen and voile. 6128. Ladles' Waist. Cut In sizes 32 to 42 Inches bust meas ure. Size 36 will require 4ft yards of 27 Inch material. This charming bodice consists of an over-blouse, made with front, back and sleeve all In one piece, made over a full under blouse. The whole mounted on a dart-flttlng lining, which may be omitted, if desired. 5961. Ladles' Skirt. Cut Irt sizes 11 to 82 Inches waist meas ure. Size 26 will require 1 yards of 44 Inch material, A most attractive four-gored 'model laid In ah Inverted box-pJeat tit each of the seams. The design would make up stylishly In t'tevlot, serge, panama, taffeta and linen. Patterns 10 cents each. Address all orders to MarJofU Dane, 46 West Thirty-fourth Street, New York City. Post-Vacation Complexion H 1TE tendency of the young woman f during vacation days Is toward complexion-carelessness. She htt heard so much of the efficacy of out-door life and sunlight on her gener al health that she forgets that sun and wind also hold possibilities for ruining her good looks, temporarily at least There Is nothing which will make a girl look so ungroomed and "blowzy" as intemperate tanning. A good color, the sort which comes ,wlth a health ful out-door life, la entirely different from the extreme complexion-carelessness of which the would-be summer girl Is guilty. I know of girls who de liberately alternate plunges In the surf with long rests on the unshaded sands for the express purpose of securing a lobster-like tan. This causes talk on their return to town but it also causes uncomplimentary comment later on when the social season opens and dainty evening frocks make mottled, blistered skins look the worse by vio lent contrast. , If you have abused your skin In this fashion, try to undo the mischief as soon a possible. For general roughness and perhaps ft tendency to fine, minute white scales, use water as hot as you can bear It, with almond meal shaken Into It. The following formula gives a very soothing meal: nitter almond meal 6 ounces Orris root (powdered) 4 ounces Wheat flour 4 ounces White castlle soap (powdered). 1 ounce ftornx (powdered) ............ 1 ounce Oil of bergamot 2 drachms Extract of musk J drachm (ill of bitter almonds 10 drops Mix the dry Ingredients thoroughly, then sift and add the perfumes. HI ft a second time und pour Into a large, wldo- mouthed Jar. Have ready a amollor box with a perforated top, and from time to time fill this with the meal and keep It on your wash-stand. T-h powder may then be sifted Into your complexion bruHh or on your washrag. Trifling Bargains Worth Seeking MHfc-MIT8 Is the season of the yeaf f C when the average shopper Is apt to overlook the bargain counter r square. She Is eager to see the new things, not the "left-overs." She Is desperately-afraid that she might buy something Just a little passes. Later she will realize that some of those very summer left-overs would have been must wise purchases. To begin with watch the silk coun ter. Do not turn your hack upon a remnant of flowered or figured sum mer silk of a soft quality. The smart est of chiffon, voile an marquesette frocks will ho made over flowered, fig ured and even striped silks showing two or more colors. A lovely chiffon cloth robe recently noted at an open ing was of palest ecru over flowered silk in dellrate blues, pinks and grey ish green on a white ground. Odd little sleeveless Jackets will also he worn about the house this winter, over net or lace robes, and for these flowered. Persian or Cashmere silk remnants are most desirable. Pompa dour effects trimmed with black vel vet ribbon and Jet or rhlnestone or naments will be very smart over a white, cream or mode colored house robe. Look out for scraps of embroidered Ills and How to Treat Them A very good lotion for whitening the skin Is this: - " Tincture of bentoln 1-2 ounoe Tincture of vanilla 2 drachma RoBe-water, triple 11-1 pints Mix the two tinctures first and then add the water very slowly to guard against curdling. The result should be a milky looking lotion. Bathe the face at least twice a day with this, using oft old linen or anti-septlo gauze. This lotion will redyce the burning sensatldn of over-tanning. Another milky emulsion which will not only reduce Inflammation, but re move the shine from an oily face la this: , j Tincture of benzoin ...1 ounce Tincture nf musk I drachms Tincture of ambergris 4 drachms Rectified spirits ,..t...t ounces Orange-flower water.. , ......18-4 pints Mix the tincture together, then the spirits and finally add the orange-flower water. In mild cases of freckles, this Is most efficacious. Very often an ugly, scaly rash Is the penalty of over-indulgence In summer resort sweets. This Is particularly an noying wherever pressure of clothing Is felt, like waist bands, collars, eto. If permitted to go on Unchecked, these rashes sometimes superate and became quite painful. A soothing lotion Is as follows: Elder-flower water........... .7 ounces. Glycerine i ounoe Borax ......... i 1-1 drachm Apply at least twice dally with soft linen or antiseptic gause. The hewest colors for Fall are all on the dull tones. All the shades of gray are fashionable, especially smoke and stone gray. Other colors that will he much used are the peacock blues, reseda and bronze greens, dull red and dull amethyst. Black la mingled with all of those In the form of heavy em broldory and braiding, thus adding to their somberness. or braided net. If It I" slightly soiled and therefore ridiculously ehenp lucky you! It can be cleaned a! home with French chalk or gasolene and will prove Just the right touch on your net or silk blouse. Strips of heavily beaded net or bead or pearl ornaments large enough to simulate a huge clasp or barbaric orna ment best described as a long, narrow girdle buckle will be Invaluable. They will be used on soft, short-walsted evening gowns, stretched right across the bust, like a huge clasp. A strip of plain or fancy net In cream, black or white Is a good bargain. Net flounces are replacing silk ones on silk petticoats. A few little rhlnestone ornnments or fancy buttons with flat shanks are a good plek-up. likewise, for velvet rib bon bands will be worn around the throat. On these a touch of rhlnestone trimming Is most effective. Don't despise three or four handsome buttons tossed Into the remnant bas ket. If they will combine In coloring with your house frock or street suit, they will be useful. Three striking big buttons on the front of a coat or to fasten the drapery ot a blouse will give Just the needed touch of dis tinction to the costume.
