6157. Ladles' Over-Waist. Cut In sizes '.2 to 42 Inches bust
measure. The 36 Inch size will require VA yards of 44 Inch
n.aterlal. Among the smartest of the season's modes are the
over-waist effects. The one shown could form part of a cos
tum of voile or broadcloth or It could be worn with the odd
skirt. The front fulness Is taken up In deep pleats, and gathers
at the center give extra fulness.
6961. Ladles' Skirt. Cut In sizes 22 to 32 Inches waist meas
ure. The 26 Inch size will require i yards of 44 Inch material.
This Is one of the most attractive of the new skirt models. It
consists ui' four gores and Is laid In an Inverted box-pleat at
enci side team. The design would make up stylishly In broad
cloth, voile, Panama and the checked silks.
6149. Ladles' Over-Waist. Cut In sizes 32 to 42 Inches bust
measure. Th 36 inch size will require 1 yards of 44 Inch
material. This design for fancy over-blouse Is an excellent one
Etiquette of
p-l-t r-Ui. lift !:.
tf f- ', 'ji. 1 ti ;-f:;r a1 l'. '.I '-r-'- !.U".ii ;t hj r-
'HV ;.: : ,.f ,.' i ( :; n,vi 1 :: ' .lie
iut; t'.-v 9 , i'! t-rture r."Oi,, v.'! kl
are posto.l -on the bnllnr.l!i i.ouru. if
I iVt hu;i m l b'. 'n pos'l'Hl a' -llefi? Food
form il p lr..rnp y i :)rrl. nu'i iim"-, ,ir
fii. ant tl'Mt i:i why I t.tn i'ie.
r.,; i ' isy ffiw s'JiiK'.'Stl int, far die
j.rir! af tha t:fir.iu nf ui he u'ieird
ier. ,
I' li'si. ft Freshmun must .nc.k
: ny aijYBjv! exnp.'U to niombem f
'i- .- (i'."n i;Ki Kven If she happens ti,
ki.ow Winn utpr-clainn.n oi.tsMt of
jo : ! f? n.'.. not Uike It u.on her
self to mnli" t.he fiisl itep in mmtlnulnt,
the friendship. In' the college where
(here are "fraternities" or similar
societies the Freshman must step very
carefully. She must never, never,
Under any circumstance, mention one
of these societies to a -nember of a
society, and If by any ohance a mem
ber should mention her society, the
Freshman must act as If nothing had
been said In some colleges It Is bad
aste for a Freshman to pass the chap
ter houses of these societies excepting
In the company of one of their mem
bers. It is also In bad taste for a
Freshman to allow her eyes to rest
more than .casually on the pin of mem
bership, and many an unwary Fresh
fnan has been branded as too "fresh"
who has Innocently remarked that she
liked the pin that a certain girl was
wearing
A Freshman who Is being "rushei,"
or as they say In the West "spiked,"
by a society Is In great danger of
whqt Is known as "swelled head," and
nothing Is more detrimental than this
chances of "making" the society she
desires. And the Freshman who Is not
being "rushed" and who Is not "In
with" the girls who are, must take
great pains not to do what is known
as "butting In." The best thing for
such a girl to do. If she wishes to
find favor w,lth the fraternity or society
element, is to "go in" fof some college
activity, theatricals, class politics, ath
letics or high scholarship, and, by en
thusiasm and success In her chosen
line, prove her Independence and
ability.
An important chapter in the College
girl's book 6f etiquette might be called
"The College Oirl and Her Professor."
Especially in a college where there are
men professors many things may be
said under this head. The girl who
"fusses" her Instructors Is disliked even
more by them than by her fellow
students. It Is a grave mistake for a
girl to make a point to wait after
class to discuss her work with her In
structor unless she has been requested
to do so.
A great pitfall for the unwary
Freshman lies In "crushes." If a
Freshman Is so fortunate as to meet
the lnrarnatlon of all her Ideals of
feminine grace and virtue, good form
requires that she keepthe fact severely
to herself. If her enthusiasm gets the
better of her, if she sends her Idol
violets and orchids. French bon-bons
and opera tickets, she makes
Welsh rarebits and fudge for her.
mends her clothes and darns her stock
ings and tries to imitate her mode of
halrclrersing, gait and tone of voice,
she is apt to lose the friendship she
might otherwise gain.
An Important heading under college
etiquette Is "Dress." Two things ohlyj
are all-important, neatness and fitness.
The Freshman whose hilr always looks
trim, whose shoes always are well I
0
College Life
I '" ."Hi !'.., vbi never wears a discarded
' lo-m o '- n during college hours,
imi ;ui1' '.v. olen frock at dinner is
I I at t"wti n a thoroughbred, and is on
I (-. 1'.,;! I ira..k to social success.
J !t Is a t, ni.-.t mistake for a girl to
liiou! .-.' her Ideas of a "typical college
r-i-mi' Xhi. "Peter Tom," the Tam
n if. ri d sweater may do very
wv.l the c- npus of a country col-
;!:;- bat wfn a girl In a city college
appears In the treet in this attire she
Is In S',i,jrir 0? ailing forth the rebuke
of one 0 ths wise seniors who has her
Mina luster's interest at heart For
the athletic RiTi, especially, there Is
(treat te"-nmie!i to discard the closely
fitting collar and belt and to go about
In a costume that most girls outgrow
at fourteen or fifteen. The suitable
dress for a college girl is the dress that
Is suitable for any girl of her age con
structed on as simple a plan as pos
sible. In most college dormitories there Is
a great deal of borrowing and lending
01 clothing, jewelry, shoes, text-books
and money. College etiquette does not
taboo this practice, but It does taboo
the disagreements that It Is apt to lead
to. The tactful girl who makes It clear
at the beginning that her supply of
clothing, money and Jewelry la suffi
cient only to satisfy her own demands,
loses none of the right kind of popular
ity and avoids the embarrassment of
having to force the return of her right
ful possessions.
But the most Important chapter in
the college girl's book of etiquette
should be on the art of being enter
taining. When s group of college girls
get together they want above all things
to be entertained. It is never enter
taining to hear a girl boast of her high
scholarship or her numerous so-called
"suitors." No one wants to hear about
how hard another girl Is working, how
little she sleeps, how much the weather
annoys her or how she "loathes" the
dormitory fare. And above all things,
guests do not want to hear about an
other girl's family. At a college
spread, when a girl begins, "Well, my
mother says," "When my sister went
abroad," or "That reminds me of my
father's aunt," she Is generally inter
rupted. The girl who can tell the pattest
story, who can lead off In the latest
college song; the girl who forgets her
own affairs and can laugh heartily
after five or six hours of hafd brain
work Is the girl who obeys the most
Important rule of college etiquette.
MAKING SANDWICHES
In making sandwiches, bear In mind
that all orusts are removed with a
sharp knife, and that butter Just
melted but not piping hot, can be
spread wltli a fine paint brush much
better than firmer butter witft a knife.
Also at every housefurnlshlng counter
you can buy fancy cutters for making
sandwiches more attractive. And last
ly, sandwiches that must stand should
he wrapped in moist cloths.
Stuffed Green Peppers. Wash and
plunge Into boiling water, simmering
gently for five minutes. Drain and cut
off the stem-end to remove the seeds
snd partitions of soft fibre inside, leav
ing bare shells. Wipe dry. and fill with
minced sausage meat, flavored well
with, finely chapped onion, bread
crumbs, parsley and a little lemon Juice.
Bake fifteen minutes, basting with
melted butter or better still soup stock.
for part of a costume of linen or voile, and will also serve as
a separate waist. It open in front and back from shoulder
waistline, the lingerie waist worn underneath showing dain
tily through the openings. Satin, pongee and the pretty
checked silks are all adaptable.
5931. Ladles' Box-Pleated Skirt. Cut In sizes 22 to 32
Inches waist measure. Size 26 will require 514 yards of 44
Inch material. A five gore model cut In practical round length.
Box-pleats are laid in at each of the side seams, stitched down
over the hips. Box-pleats are also arranged In the lower part
of the skirt. Broadcloth, Panama and other seasonable suit
ings are available for reproduction.
8271. Ladies' Fancy Blouse. Cut in sizes 32 to 42 inches bust
measure. Size 36 will require 4 yards of 24 inch material. The
design Illustrated would make up charmingly In the sheer
vellin-js and soft silks. The waist Is mounted on a fitted lining
and provision Is made for either high or low neck. The bre-
Maddening Mixtures in Autumnal Styles
SsWHE woman shopping bound needs
I J to have her nerves steady and
her head clear. This is a season
to undo the one and unsettle the other.
It Is a season of bewildering pe
riods, hopelessly commingled with In
describable results. And it is a season
of dismaying extravagance in quanti
ties and prices.
Usually a woman has a fairly good
Idea of what the prevailing modes will
be. This season It takes the seventh
daughter born with a veil at that, to
tell Just which modes will survive the
first onslaught of feminine shoppers.
Last season the princess gown for
house wear and the pleated skirt with
cutaway coat led all other designs.
This year there seems absolutely no
leader, but an awful struggle for su
premacy among a dozen modes, each
of which Is equally trying to the needle
of the Inexperienced home sewer. Even
the most successful modistes tremble
before this year's modes.
Suggestions of the princess do re
main, but the waist line Is raised al
most to the bust, and unless this high
girdle effect Is treated with Infinite
care, the figure Is hopelessly shortened.
Then instead of the panel and tucked
or pleated effect In the gores of the
princess robe, you have absolutely no
pleats, and perfectly fitted skirts with
a few draped effects, particularly In the
front of the bodice.
One thing hear In mind, the sheath
skirt as exploited by the dally press is
not being accepted by any one except
stage managers who desire to secure
startling effects In the way of costum
ing. Neither will well-dressed Ameri
can women wear the Dlrectolre gown
generally. The sheath gown Is simply
a very snug-fitting, one-pieca robe,
split up on the side to disclose either
the right limb enclosed in silk tights
of contrasting color or an extremely
diaphanous under skirt of chiffon or
similar fabric which might Just as well
be omitted so far as lending any re
spectability to the garment No Ameri
can woman or modiste Is taking this
costume seriously.
The Dlrectolre costume, a shapeless
yet perfectly cut robe, is so tight
that Its wearer has to edge along, not
really walk. It Is all In one piece,
with a very short waist, and (a straight
line smoothly fitted over the hips. It
gives the effect of being narrower
around the feet than at the waist line.
It is being worn by ultra-fashionable
HINTS ON
D".VKR pour water Into the pan
'n which you roast lamb. Bub
the meat with salt and pepper
and scatter flour lightly over the top.
Then cover with the "leaf" of fat
which comes with the roast Cover
with a second pan of same size and
haste with the Juices of the meat
Water destroys the flavor. .
When ordering Hamburger teak,
select the meat Do not permit the
butcher to put In tailings and dis
colored scraps. Fresh rump or round
Is befit Have it first ground, then laid
on the neat blork and the onion
chopped into It with a cleaver.
To get best results In stewing chic
ken according to the good old-fashlnned
methods, disjoint the fowl, wipe each
piece clean, and drop Into water Just
women In the privacy of their home or
at exclusive entertainments, but well
bred women do not sport It In public
places.
The Dlrectolre influence, however, Is
making Itself felt and this In combina
tion with certain classic or Greek lines
that are hard to attain. Unquestionably
the-straight lines prevail, everything
hag a sllmpsy. sleazy look that unless
carefully and artistically attained Is
absolutely dowdy, and all styles are cal
culated to strike terror to the heart of
the stout Woman.
The fabrics are all clinging and very,
very supple. Broadcloth and other
cloths for house and street frocks are
soft sa silk and not much thicker. All
the silks and eatlns ara woven in very
light weights and crumple in the hand
like chiffon cloth. Plain supple silks
and satins are offered for costumes to
be worn for calling and even the woman
who has no carriage Is using silk or
satin for her autumn suit A new cord
ed silk called cotole bengallne, not un
like an ottoman weave, Is very popu
lar for coat suits, the long shapeless
Dlrectolre or Louis cqats. Chiffon
moussellne, marqulesette and new Cash
mere silks, the latter looking like love
ly old Cashmere shawls, with a satin
sheen are In great demand. Some bor
dered goods are still shown but In dif
ferent designs from those offered this
summer, the pattern now being In flow
ers of the most exquisite tonos, so
woven as to simulate hand-palntlng.
Practically no suitings are shown ex
cept for what are known as strictly
tailored costumes. Everything for house
wear and calling, receptions, etc., Is
either In silk or with so much silk com
bined with the wool that the latter Is
Invisible.
The trimmings are beyond words, so
rarely beautiful, so perfect In tone and
handwork. Net forms the foundation of
nearly all the new trimmings, and this
Is either braided with soft silk sou
tache or embroidered In padded stltch
ery, with a few beads. For combination
with white silks, satins, chiffons and
marquisettes, a charming trimming In
various widths shows a dot and Greek
pattern combined, all In white. You
cafi get the same design In all the pale
and neutral colors. For combination
with a brown Satin comes a net of gold
silk rather dull, embroidered In soft
mauve and mossy grey green, with
here and there a very few gold beads.
On an oyster white net was an em
broidery of delicate pastel silks and
opalescent beads. This trimming comes
COOKING VARIOUS DISHES
coming to a boll. Cover tlghtjy and
set back on the stove to simmer very
gently. When about half done, add
salt When the meat Is Jurt ready to
drop from the bone, you will And your
stock greatly reduced. Add an equal
quantity of milk, thicken with ftou-,
and then add pepper aid parsley chop
ped fine. Serve on crisp toast.
. If you Intend to serve erfld ham
whole, parboil and then bake it. Scrub
the ham thorouRhly and soak over
night In cold water. Next morning
wipe off clean, lay In cold water In i
granite Iron pot and bring Just to a
boll. Pour off this water, add more
cold and bring to a boll the second
time: add a handful of bay leaves and
some whole cloves. Simmer for two
hours, remove from the pot peel off
telleS that extend over the shoulders may be made of the ma
'ferial or oi ribbon, or they may be omitted.
" 8272. Ladles' Skirt. Cut In sizes 22 to 32 Inches waist meas
ure. Size 26 will require i yards of 24 inch material. This
graceful skirt Is shaped by nine gores. The top Is extended In
corsage effect, but if preferred it may be cut off at the regular
. waistline. A suitable development may be had In pongee, voile
, and net.
5962. Ladles' Blouse. Cut In sizes 32 to 42 Inches bust meas
ure. Size 36 will require 2 yards of 44 Inch material. This
Is one of the season's newest and prettiest designs. The low
cut neck discloses a dainty chemisette which may be of dottod
net or tucked chiffon. The three-quarter sleeves are prettily
finished by flaring . cuffs.
8266. Ladles' Skirt. Cut In sizes 22 to 32 Inches waist meas
ure. Size 26 will require B yards of 44 Inch material. This
not only In banding, motifs and galoons,
but It can be 'had In complete sets,
forming boleros to be worn over Dl
rectolre or -Empire gowns, glrdlei,
sashes, etc. Not a few tasseled orna
ments are offered, but little fringe Is
shown.
A marked feature of the fall open
lngs has been, the long sleeve, which
modistes are doing their best to force
upon the American woman. Even some
of the decollette gowns so far as shoul
ders are concerned, are accompanied by
the regulation Bernhardt sleeve, crlnk
ly, soft and long enough to come clear
down over the knuckle.
The blouse shown In today's Illus
trations gives a very fair idea of the
application of the trimming described
above, on a foundation of chiffon cloth
over messaline. The odd little reveres
are embroidered to match the banding.
The calling costume Was drawn from
a model In ottoman silk of a most beau
tiful shade of peacock green with Just
a touch of the same shade of green, a
harmonious oyster-white and old-gold
In the embroidery on collur and cuffs,
The skirt, with Its high girdle coming
almost to the bust line, was absolutely
plain but perfectly fitted, and the coat
had long points on the sides, but was
cut very short In the back.
The house gown of block and white
messaline tells how the striped fab
rica are employed as trimming. It shows
also the high-cut skirt and the ublqult
ous vest of shirred chiffon and ex
qulsltely embroidered banding. This
striped material In black and white Is
very dashing but the color combination
In the strip of embroidered net Is most
delicate, soft pinks, blues an dead
white.
Tly) evening frock shows a tendency
oward classic drapery. The silk Is trim
med with matching fringe around the
tunic and the draped bodice Is finished
at the back with long streamers of the
silk, trimmed with fringe. The bodice
section or what was once. called gulmpe
Is made from embroidered net, per
fectly matching the shade of silk with
Persian tones In the embroidery.
A word of warning In making up all
fall raiment. Avoid the conventional
petticoat or drop skirt. Dressmakers
still stand out for taffetas because t
has body, but get a supple taffetas, and
If you can Induce the lady of autocratic
habits to use It. select messaline of the
softest quality. Your frock must not
be bouffant, but must -;Ive the effect
of no lining, no petticoat, to be truly
smart.
the skin, lay In a dripping pan' In
which you have poured a cup of water
and one of sherry. Cover with bread
crumbs and pepper, bake until gulden
brown.
Knrui!oped Tomntneat In the bottom
of a baking dish put a layer of dry
bread crumbs, seasoned with salt, but
ter and pepper. Now add a layer of
tomatoes sliced rather thick, and sea
son in like manner. If the flavor of
onlnn Is liked add a sli'-e or two of
onion on top of the tomatoes. Tnenodl
another layer of bread crumbs, and so
on until the dish Is full with bread
crumbs on top. Scatter butter freely
through the dish, and bake In medium
oven.
modol shows the fashionable close adjustment at the top while
the lower edge Is given extra fulness by the pleated gores that
are Inserted In each of the side gores. Suitable development
may be had in broadcloth, panama serge, linen and voile.
6128. Ladles' Waist. Cut In sizes 32 to 42 Inches bust meas
ure. Size 36 will require 4ft yards of 27 Inch material. This
charming bodice consists of an over-blouse, made with front,
back and sleeve all In one piece, made over a full under
blouse. The whole mounted on a dart-flttlng lining, which may
be omitted, if desired.
5961. Ladles' Skirt. Cut Irt sizes 11 to 82 Inches waist meas
ure. Size 26 will require 1 yards of 44 Inch material, A most
attractive four-gored 'model laid In ah Inverted box-pJeat tit
each of the seams. The design would make up stylishly In
t'tevlot, serge, panama, taffeta and linen.
Patterns 10 cents each. Address all orders to MarJofU
Dane, 46 West Thirty-fourth Street, New York City.
Post-Vacation Complexion
H 1TE tendency of the young woman
f during vacation days Is toward
complexion-carelessness. She
htt heard so much of the efficacy of
out-door life and sunlight on her gener
al health that she forgets that sun and
wind also hold possibilities for ruining
her good looks, temporarily at least
There Is nothing which will make a
girl look so ungroomed and "blowzy"
as intemperate tanning. A good color,
the sort which comes ,wlth a health
ful out-door life, la entirely different
from the extreme complexion-carelessness
of which the would-be summer
girl Is guilty. I know of girls who de
liberately alternate plunges In the surf
with long rests on the unshaded sands
for the express purpose of securing
a lobster-like tan. This causes talk
on their return to town but it also
causes uncomplimentary comment later
on when the social season opens and
dainty evening frocks make mottled,
blistered skins look the worse by vio
lent contrast.
, If you have abused your skin In this
fashion, try to undo the mischief as
soon a possible.
For general roughness and perhaps
ft tendency to fine, minute white scales,
use water as hot as you can bear It,
with almond meal shaken Into It. The
following formula gives a very soothing
meal:
nitter almond meal 6 ounces
Orris root (powdered) 4 ounces
Wheat flour 4 ounces
White castlle soap (powdered). 1 ounce
ftornx (powdered) ............ 1 ounce
Oil of bergamot 2 drachms
Extract of musk J drachm
(ill of bitter almonds 10 drops
Mix the dry Ingredients thoroughly,
then sift and add the perfumes. HI ft a
second time und pour Into a large, wldo-
mouthed Jar. Have ready a amollor box
with a perforated top, and from time to
time fill this with the meal and keep
It on your wash-stand. T-h powder
may then be sifted Into your complexion
bruHh or on your washrag.
Trifling Bargains Worth Seeking
MHfc-MIT8 Is the season of the yeaf
f C when the average shopper Is apt
to overlook the bargain counter
r square. She Is eager to see the new
things, not the "left-overs." She Is
desperately-afraid that she might buy
something Just a little passes. Later
she will realize that some of those
very summer left-overs would have
been must wise purchases.
To begin with watch the silk coun
ter. Do not turn your hack upon a
remnant of flowered or figured sum
mer silk of a soft quality. The smart
est of chiffon, voile an marquesette
frocks will ho made over flowered, fig
ured and even striped silks showing
two or more colors. A lovely chiffon
cloth robe recently noted at an open
ing was of palest ecru over flowered
silk in dellrate blues, pinks and grey
ish green on a white ground.
Odd little sleeveless Jackets will also
he worn about the house this winter,
over net or lace robes, and for these
flowered. Persian or Cashmere silk
remnants are most desirable. Pompa
dour effects trimmed with black vel
vet ribbon and Jet or rhlnestone or
naments will be very smart over a
white, cream or mode colored house
robe.
Look out for scraps of embroidered
Ills and How to Treat Them
A very good lotion for whitening the
skin Is this: - "
Tincture of bentoln 1-2 ounoe
Tincture of vanilla 2 drachma
RoBe-water, triple 11-1 pints
Mix the two tinctures first and then
add the water very slowly to guard
against curdling. The result should be
a milky looking lotion. Bathe the face
at least twice a day with this, using
oft old linen or anti-septlo gauze. This
lotion will redyce the burning sensatldn
of over-tanning.
Another milky emulsion which will
not only reduce Inflammation, but re
move the shine from an oily face la
this: , j
Tincture of benzoin ...1 ounce
Tincture nf musk I drachms
Tincture of ambergris 4 drachms
Rectified spirits ,..t...t ounces
Orange-flower water.. , ......18-4 pints
Mix the tincture together, then the
spirits and finally add the orange-flower
water. In mild cases of freckles, this Is
most efficacious.
Very often an ugly, scaly rash Is the
penalty of over-indulgence In summer
resort sweets. This Is particularly an
noying wherever pressure of clothing
Is felt, like waist bands, collars, eto.
If permitted to go on Unchecked, these
rashes sometimes superate and became
quite painful. A soothing lotion Is as
follows:
Elder-flower water........... .7 ounces.
Glycerine i ounoe
Borax ......... i 1-1 drachm
Apply at least twice dally with soft
linen or antiseptic gause.
The hewest colors for Fall are all
on the dull tones. All the shades of
gray are fashionable, especially smoke
and stone gray. Other colors that will
he much used are the peacock blues,
reseda and bronze greens, dull red and
dull amethyst. Black la mingled with
all of those In the form of heavy em
broldory and braiding, thus adding to
their somberness.
or braided net. If It I" slightly soiled
and therefore ridiculously ehenp lucky
you! It can be cleaned a! home with
French chalk or gasolene and will
prove Just the right touch on your net
or silk blouse.
Strips of heavily beaded net or bead
or pearl ornaments large enough to
simulate a huge clasp or barbaric orna
ment best described as a long, narrow
girdle buckle will be Invaluable. They
will be used on soft, short-walsted
evening gowns, stretched right across
the bust, like a huge clasp.
A strip of plain or fancy net In cream,
black or white Is a good bargain. Net
flounces are replacing silk ones on
silk petticoats.
A few little rhlnestone ornnments or
fancy buttons with flat shanks are a
good plek-up. likewise, for velvet rib
bon bands will be worn around the
throat. On these a touch of rhlnestone
trimming Is most effective.
Don't despise three or four handsome
buttons tossed Into the remnant bas
ket. If they will combine In coloring
with your house frock or street suit,
they will be useful. Three striking
big buttons on the front of a coat
or to fasten the drapery ot a blouse
will give Just the needed touch of dis
tinction to the costume.