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About Eugene weekly. (Eugene, Oregon) 1993-current | View Entire Issue (July 3, 2003)
Spirit of Great Cuisine EXPANDING ITS FOCUS, ADAM’S PLACE REMAINS TRUE TO FINE FOOD. by Marina Taylor S tepping from the bright, hot down- town sidewalk into Adam’s Place’s cool interior is a luxury. Soft music, quiet sophisticated bustle, dark polished wood and brocade upholstery: Luxury is what Adam’s is all about. The tables are set with creamy white linens and crystal glass- ware, and the wait staff in their crisp black and white uniforms are gently formal and dedicatedly polite. The space splits into three separate zones, each with its own atmos- phere. The lounge area and bar to the left feels less formal, with smaller tables and an after work crowd. The regular dining room and the banquet room curl around a fire- place, muffled from the kitchen and from the neighboring Luna. Luna is the swank night- club side project on the right. In the past seven years Adam’s has expanded from food into a stronger focus on drinks, winning awards for its martinis and kudos from Wine Spectator for its wine lists. Great food, however, has not been neg- lected. I appreciate the menu: It is simple and readable, listing the main elements of the dishes without giving so much information that the essence of the dish gets lost. It resists the tendency of some formal restaurants to list every single spice and condiment. Many familiar names pop out, such as Greener Pastures Poultry, Alsea Acres Goat Cheeses, local free-range beef. If fish were certifiable as organic, the menu would be close to 95 percent certified organic. The first course selections include Cedar- Scented Salmon Salad (try saying that three times fast), Manilla Clams Agave and, of course, the ever impressive Cambazola Fondue ($11), which has been on Adam’s menu from its inception: When you find a recipe like this, you keep it in your reper- toire. Big, tender buttered garlic croutons surround a bread bowl overflowing with melted cheese and fresh herbs. The flavor is insistent, tangy even, but creamy and so smooth it melts in your mouth. Little ghost- ly squares of cheese rind float with the herbs. When the entrees arrive, they make an even bigger splash with their flashy presen- tation and exciting flavors. The Toasted Sesame Encrusted Hawaiian Ahi ($20) was a vision to behold, picture perfect with fried noodles in a towering confection over a pat of jasmine rice, heaps of flowery pink pick- led ginger and lime-green wasabi. The fish is buttery smooth, crusted in bi-colored sesame seeds, delicious and very delicate. The Vegetarian Trio ($18) is less lovely to look at, but perhaps more creative. It con- sists of a roasted, stuffed chard leaf filled with a white bean salad, grilled eggplant on a bed of soft sweet zucchinis, and a sugar snap pea and slivered carrot salad with a rich, thick chervil-mint pesto-like dressing. inside. The whole meal is set at a slow pace, Each on their own are wonderful and well meant to be savored, not rushed. I like that thought out, however they lack something to there is never a feeling of trying to clear out tie them all together. The dish’s only unify- the table for the next wave of diners. ing theme is its lack of meat. As a first Eugene offers a few great restaurants for course, the Veggie Trio would be interesting special occasions, places to celebrate or and satisfying; as an entree it doesn’t stand indulge, to share with friends from bigger up. Unfortunately, until the new menu comes cities or show off to relatives. Adam’s Place out this month, it is the only vegetarian stepped into that category when it opened entree. seven years ago. Though it has gone through At dessert I fall in love all over changes, focusing on its drink list and adding again. The choices are difficult. Luna, the dedicated spirit of great cuisine One particularly tempting option treated with respect and creativity is the Chocolate Volcano, a remains true. molten centered soufflé for two. It has to be ordered with your ew entree, as it needs about half an hour of preparation time. Eat lightly before you dare to tread there. I opted instead for the Maple Crème Brûlée. It is a clever and surprising twist on a traditional creme brûlée. The usual crisp caramel topping is instead mixed with almonds to make a thin, delicate praline bowl, with a serving of maple fla- DAVID NIELSEN, LYDIA REICHERT AND JACK M. 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An all-day menu is served from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Brunch is served on Sundays. 1000 Valley River Way • Eugene, OR 97401 (541) 687-0123 • 800-543-8266 www.valleyriverinn.com westcoasthotels.com • 800-325-4000 CHOW! JULY 3, 2003 5
