Spirit of Great Cuisine
EXPANDING ITS FOCUS, ADAM’S PLACE REMAINS TRUE TO FINE FOOD. by Marina Taylor
S
tepping from the bright, hot down-
town sidewalk into Adam’s Place’s
cool interior is a luxury. Soft music,
quiet sophisticated bustle, dark polished
wood and brocade upholstery: Luxury is
what Adam’s is all about. The tables are set
with creamy white linens and crystal glass-
ware, and the wait staff in their crisp black
and white uniforms are gently formal and
dedicatedly polite. The space splits into three
separate zones, each with its own atmos-
phere. The lounge area and bar to the left
feels less formal, with smaller tables and an
after work crowd. The regular dining room
and the banquet room curl around a fire-
place, muffled from the kitchen and from the
neighboring Luna. Luna is the swank night-
club side project on the right. In the past
seven years Adam’s has expanded from food
into a stronger focus on drinks, winning
awards for its martinis and kudos from Wine
Spectator for its wine lists.
Great food, however, has not been neg-
lected. I appreciate the menu: It is simple and
readable, listing the main elements of the
dishes without giving so much information
that the essence of the dish gets lost. It resists
the tendency of some formal restaurants to
list every single spice and condiment. Many
familiar names pop out, such as Greener
Pastures Poultry, Alsea Acres Goat Cheeses,
local free-range beef. If fish were certifiable
as organic, the menu would be close to 95
percent certified organic.
The first course selections include Cedar-
Scented Salmon Salad (try saying that three
times fast), Manilla Clams Agave and, of
course, the ever impressive Cambazola
Fondue ($11), which has been on Adam’s
menu from its inception: When you find a
recipe like this, you keep it in your reper-
toire. Big, tender buttered garlic croutons
surround a bread bowl overflowing with
melted cheese and fresh herbs. The flavor is
insistent, tangy even, but creamy and so
smooth it melts in your mouth. Little ghost-
ly squares of cheese rind float with the herbs.
When the entrees arrive, they make an
even bigger splash with their flashy presen-
tation and exciting flavors. The Toasted
Sesame Encrusted Hawaiian Ahi ($20) was a
vision to behold, picture perfect with fried
noodles in a towering confection over a pat
of jasmine rice, heaps of flowery pink pick-
led ginger and lime-green wasabi. The fish is
buttery smooth, crusted in bi-colored sesame
seeds, delicious and very delicate.
The Vegetarian Trio ($18) is less lovely
to look at, but perhaps more creative. It con-
sists of a roasted, stuffed chard leaf filled
with a white bean salad, grilled eggplant on
a bed of soft sweet zucchinis, and a sugar
snap pea and slivered carrot salad with a
rich, thick chervil-mint pesto-like dressing.
inside. The whole meal is set at a slow pace,
Each on their own are wonderful and well
meant to be savored, not rushed. I like that
thought out, however they lack something to
there is never a feeling of trying to clear out
tie them all together. The dish’s only unify-
the table for the next wave of diners.
ing theme is its lack of meat. As a first
Eugene offers a few great restaurants for
course, the Veggie Trio would be interesting
special occasions, places to celebrate or
and satisfying; as an entree it doesn’t stand
indulge, to share with friends from bigger
up. Unfortunately, until the new menu comes
cities or show off to relatives. Adam’s Place
out this month, it is the only vegetarian
stepped into that category when it opened
entree.
seven years ago. Though it has gone through
At dessert I fall in love all over
changes, focusing on its drink list and adding
again. The choices are difficult.
Luna, the dedicated spirit of great cuisine
One particularly tempting option
treated with respect and creativity
is the Chocolate Volcano, a
remains true.
molten centered soufflé for two.
It has to be ordered with your
ew
entree, as it needs about half
an hour of preparation
time. Eat lightly
before you dare to
tread there. I opted
instead for the Maple
Crème Brûlée. It is a
clever and surprising
twist on a traditional
creme brûlée. The
usual crisp caramel
topping is instead
mixed with almonds to
make a thin, delicate
praline bowl, with a
serving of maple fla-
DAVID NIELSEN, LYDIA REICHERT AND JACK M. STRONG
vored custard tucked
A ut he n t i c M i dd l e
E as te r n F oo d
Always Fresh, Always
Healthy, & Always the Best!
•Falafel •Gyros
•Shawarma •Shish Kebob
•Vegetarian Options
10:30 am - 8:00 pm
Monday - Friday
We also serve burgers
& fine sandwiches!
1030 River Road Eugene, OR 97404
5 41 - 6 89 -4 2 6 3
• F R E S H N O RT H W E S T C U I S I N E W I T H E L E G A N C E & C H A R M •
E XPERIENCE
S WEET W ATERS
R ESTAURANT
W ITH THE W ILLAMETTE R IVER IN FULL
VIEW RIGHT OUTSIDE OF THE WINDOW ,
S WEET W ATERS IS V ALLEY R IVER I NN ’ S
ACCLAIMED RESTAURANT .
Fine pacific Northwest Cuisine with hearty portions and
wide variety are what you’ll find at SweetWaters. The
emphasis is on fresh, seasonal ingredients, locally gath-
ered foods, and unique presentations you won’t find at
any other restaurant.
An all-day menu is served from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Brunch is served on Sundays.
1000 Valley River Way • Eugene, OR 97401
(541) 687-0123 • 800-543-8266
www.valleyriverinn.com
westcoasthotels.com • 800-325-4000
CHOW! JULY 3, 2003 5