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About Eugene weekly. (Eugene, Oregon) 1993-current | View Entire Issue (July 3, 2003)
Serving All-Day Breakfast 14 Unique & Custom Omelets Buttermilk Pancakes Homemade Home Fries Raisin Bread French Toast Steak & Eggs Vegetarian Friendly Fast Fresh Good 1249 Alder Street • 344-1960 Next to Campus & Sacred Heart Serving Daily 9:00 AM to 10:00 PM Flying Dogs Café & Deli WE BRING THE RESTAURANTS TO YOU! Delivery for 18 of EUGENE’S BEST RESTAURANTS Mekala’s • Taste of India • Wild Duck • Cozmic Pizza • China Delight • Chapalas • Nacho’s • Bellizzi’s • Rio Bar & Grill • Joggers • Schlotsky’s Deli • Napoli • Chili’s • China Blue • Bamboo • Flying Dog Café • Diablo’s ★ NEW RESTAURANT ★ • Pegasus Pizza with NEW LOW delivery rate! (for Pegasus only) 2 for 1 Breakfast RESTAURANT DELIVERY SERVICE Valid Before 11:30 AM D INE -I N O NLY CALL 485-2090 1 Free Breakfast Entrée with the Purchase of Another of Equal or Greater Price. Check website for full updated menus Expires 8/31/03 • Not valid with other offers www.ponyexpressdelivery.com N o t f or E v er y b od y BROADLEY VINEYARDS REFINES THE ART OF PINOT NOIR. by Lance Sparks I f Herman Haller (the Steppenwolf of Herman Hesse’s Nobel novel of that name) were in Eugene and thirsting for his favorite wine, with “the good and homely flavor of the land, and of earth and sky and woods,” he would motor north on the steaming black ribbon of Hwy 99W, through the crabbed corridor of Junction City, eight miles more to scruffy little Monroe, pop. 380. Haller would pull off across the street from Long Branch Bar & Grill and Dari Mart, noting new mural painted on wall, depicting a mill and ferry, bearing legend “Monroe 1853-2003” and slogan: “Pride in Our Past, Present and Future.” Sporadic clusters of log trucks rumble past, followed by RVs, farm rigs, family sedans coated in summer dust. Few stop. Sultry air reeks of diesel fumes and unburned gasoline. The Steppenwolf would know the mill is gone, torn down years ago; the ferry stopped plying the river long before. Pride in our past. He would stand before the most elegant structure in town, “a little temple of order,” dark brick, single-story, fronted by a line of young maples curbside. See strange green lines of paint on sidewalk, series of dash- es stopping at each tree’s t r u n k . Handsome black wrought- iron fence rings the parking lot. Sign on building, black-on-white, marks Broadley Vineyards. Over entrance, half the letters remain from previous incar- nation as Monroe garage. Haller would see wine’s Magic Theater: “Not for Everybody.” Pinot noir, Oregon’s most renowned wine, is not for everybody. But it’s usually where wine lovers finally arrive — long after initiation into Blue Nun and Mateus Rose, studies in California Chardonnay and cabernet, Australian shiraz, French Bordeaux and Cotes du Rhone, graduating in Burgundy (red pinot noir) — in passionate pursuit of complexity and delicacy in wine fla- vors. Rather like coming to love music through rock ‘n’ roll before finding the rapturous Mozart, Liszt, Bach. Broadley’s pinot noir is not for everybody, but it is so distinc- tive, definitive of its origins, that those who love it must have it “to sip ... heart and courage from their glasses.” And here it’s made, and well might prove some- day soon a source of Monroe’s pride in its future. Through the door, Haller would encounter Craig Broadley, 57, about six slender feet tall, topped by white hair above a sunburned face lit by blue eyes and a brilliant smile. Claudia Broadley, 56, is small, with curly dark hair, dark and live- ly eyes, and a laugh quick and bright as lightning. They’ve been together since high school and married since ‘67. They chuckle a lot, crack each other up. Haller would revel in this “Cabinet of Humor.” The Broadleys would talk. The Steppenwolf would learn: These are lit- erate, book- i s h , California- bred folk, in fact had early careers w i t h Ferlinghetti’s City Lights Books of San Francisco, got out when, Craig gri- maces, “The book business got horrible,” crushed by “corporate giants ... rough and rude.” After an epiphany in wine, Oregon pinot noir, “great fruit ... fruit you loved,” Craig, strick- en, studied enology at Cal-Davis, graduated. They borrowed, bought hillside, east-slope vineyard property in Monroe, 1981, planted vines, made their first vintage 1986; ten years later, their 1994 Claudia’s Choice was And there it is: in the nose and on the tongue, painfully pretty, candied chocolate cherries, raspberries, flawless balance, medium tannins, length in the finish, lovely, lovely Broadley pinot noir. 6 JULY 3, 2003 CHOW!
