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About Daily capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1903-1919 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 11, 1915)
FOURTEEN 4 By FxtDA Leokek. l'lio best of French ideas have been ndopted by American dciiiicrs and transferred into washable lingerie. Such n display (jf charming and inactic.il con ceils are glimpsed in the lingerie held, that each one seems prettier than the other. It is gralifyitiK to '""e that even in the moderate-priced iiiiderijarmeiils the duality is not sacrificed (or the benefit of cheaper showy triinniiiu; ami workmanship. t.acc of all kinds arc used on fein mi"c tinder apparel. Valenciennes, ( 1 1 ml io, fancy net laces, Milan and nh lion laces Midi as lirueKes, are amply used. Openwork, embroidery in KiiKlinh and Madeira styles in the form of mo tifs, wheels and dowers meet in various v.uys with lace trimming. Little tiny plaits alternating with hand-made open work are features of the white lingerie, which dues not permit of u touch of cnlor to mar its snowy fairness. The newest lingerie is of silk voile trimmed with a succession of frills and lootings. A uixht gown trimmed with ribbon threaded through puffs of net in Kuipirc i.lylc had rather wide satin ribbons used to draw the tucked tipper part together and relied more upon the grace of out line and daintiness of material for its i harm than upon any adornment of lace. Night robes of lustrous pussy willow taffeta nre made in redingole style, trimmed simply with bows of ribbon and picot edging. A row of large eyelets just heli.w the bust and unolher row just below the knees allow wide ribbons to Tit drawn through and tied in bow knots. Keep square scallops at the hem finish the rather full skirt portion Almost all Ibr chemises have remov able shoulder straps. They are made shorter than usual and have gained in width what they lost in length. Fashions still incline towaril the cn- elope style for they take the place of Famous Artists May Appear A n 1 A In the three tn iiMti-til tut'iMs n , ,. be neeured f,.r Nileni (1,1, Neui, p,,1 ligrn. llii,l.sla ,i HH,-iitlial, tl. ' people cf tliiK ceininuiiity lime 1111 op port unity with wlueli tl.'ey kIiiuiM not dully. An U well Uvnvii' the e.iueerl council uicn here tlu pint four ve tru linve been under the direction nf " M ih Minettn M tigers, who bus given 11 11 hV'iriuitly of time luut effort tliul thev uiiitlil be Kiicieimfiil. It In utitioccsvtrj to dwell upon tlu enjoMiieul mid 111111I enl development tlmt ' these c,.in,es liKve given to tlione who liuvi ntti-mled. It in imt uncommon to hour n pernon Mty, "Well, I lived 1 1 -t winter upon tllu.k," or "To tliluk Hint 1 hnvo heard HiapliHin xiiig Punuy pemoi in Nnlrin." Tliomi re umolig the life vent tlmt itri prlfed with nlilcli we du not Imva to part. Then there is tins point, eomineiTin! o.iblv, hut not it ll to be despbed on tlint nceounl;. tliM eouro linve helped to put n lein on the mnp muiculv no other sine single thing, And in putting Nil, -in on the mnp musicHlly, doe it hurt it uny eomnioreliillyf A towu ut is lib h din 1 tluguinlied trtUti stop, munt hnvo peo I do, tHto and eiiterpriao, Hint to tie nown m poMOMing the' things dccK not hnrm nny town, So it iniiy be iinBUnovt tint thi publio here wnntu the eouriu to continue. 1i stop right now when time ir beginning to look up and when 1hree itr of nueh bii' ; liiney cu be oblniued honestly, bow j three rarments and may be worn over or under the corsets, rme cottons, nam sook, batiste, wash silk in glossy finish, crepe de chine, new silk lingerie cloth anil pussy willow are most extensively sought after. Chemises of Milanese silk having only Valenciennes lace around the edge or formed into a festoon with motifs of embroidery have ribbons laced up the side, or wherever they can be placed. Princess slips fitted with clastic at the waistline and around the hips, in soft taffetas or batistes, have appeared again after a long exile. Owing to the raising of the corset top, there is an increased request fyr short bust conliners. Crepe de chine;, tricot, net. lace and ribbon are n-it for girdles. These girdle tb figure so as to eliminate the ridge at the too of the corset. Of plain blue baby ribbon linen lace Is a brassiere in the form of a broad rib bon band, which passes around the bust and is gored to fit the figure. Brassieres with sleeves for shields are desirable for evening dresses and where the seamless shoulder is used. A clever model shown n linitur r( r.w.. pink silk over which falls in full soft ucct a paler silk lace. Another made of double thleknesa .f wash blonde net had all the seams joined with heading and is edged with lace. The shoulder straps are of white satin ribbon and across the back is fastened an clastic band run through a net puf- nng. In rcsnnnne n the wi.tili mo-r petticoats acknowledge considerable full ness I he soft petticoat of talfela prob ably is more in the lead than any other. Deep talteta ruffles are used on soft silks. aii origmni idea is shown in a petti 'oat in which a mimntli miou fit w ?;.,.., about the hips by means of a fitted top Music Lovers Mast Pledge would ilmi Innkf lul nmtiors of this kind people urn nlow to move. They want things but thev wuit for some one to in like the utiut. 'Now thin tune the committee hKh (lie people of Salem If they iit theno nttriietiuim this winter to niiike the ntnit theinselven, mid to please in like it now. It urgen them lest there be danger of hmiug tne event altogether, not to Iohvo it nil to the committee. The iimnngorj innke up their vl ut in fur iu Kdvnuco, and when one thinks too long, nome one elso is likely to net. And no it urge earnestly the pntron to come nt once mid attest to their deniren. Thin year it hn been decided to reduce the eost of lulmii ion 11 11. 1 give the throe eoneertn tor .1 n ticket, but five hundred ticket nt lemt must be nold to obtnin these artist. Kiinlio de Uogorin, the grout Spmiinli Imrit one, I u new eoiner hut leaven nn Indelible iinpreion. An a true opem nrtmt he lutn eonimand, variety and reoiinnt mellownem of voice. There nre nld to be hut few baritone today dowered by nut ore with voenl nt no giKtifyiug, nnd few who are mich eon miimiito rtiU. Ho nueeoed U in getting nt the heart of noiig h ing mid In mnklug hi ndieuce fivl mid mi dernlnnd the finent mmnce of the com poser' IdeH. In fine, Mr. de Oogorsa i a renl interpreter and nhnt U per Imps even more lmprtint, from the eoucerl goer 'a jwim of view, he plmm CAPITAL JOURNAL and an elastic band about the waist, which can be removed if it is a lingerie petticoat to be laundered. Three- circular flounces joined one to the other under fairly thick cord give a suggestion of a modified hoop skirt to a glossy garnet silk petticoat. The flounces are sewed one to the other without any fullness other than the fullness of the circular edge of the ruffle. A deep flounce of white lace on a blue taffeta imder- kirt is frilled with black net. A gar land of pink cbilfon roses, wreathed here and there, give cachet to the skirt. Petticoats in short lengths from thirty- five to thirty-seven inches lonij are usu ally about three yards wide. For sheer evening gowns twin skirts of glossy silk form a double petticoat and fall from a single fitted yoke. Are you deft with the needle? In a short tune you can make the most de lightful negligees. Hardly any work at all will accomplish a full wiife circular skirt with a little cape jacket outlined with bands of swansdown, or naught but a llight of airy ruffles may hide a dis carded evening skirt with a waist covered in coatee effect with chiffon. A model of pink crepe de chine had a ng waist jointed to a plaited skirt, long raglan sleeves and straight cuffs. The U neck, armholes, cuffs and bottom of waist are scalloped and embroidered. The list buttons with buttonholes worked in green to represent leaves and little flower buttons made of two shades of pink silk. Feminine daintiness is exploited in a liseuse of blue crepe de chine and white Inlton checked with blue. The skirt is (luted Hike an accordlan. The slip-on leeveless jacket is of rhiffnn. The jacket is laced on each side with silk cords run through eyelets. It is trimmed in embroidery in blue and pink on each side, the lace collar fa Is nearly to the waist line in the hack. Short sleeves of crepe swing out in bell shape. Support to Secure Stars ' : I r, 1 NX- V v WV ' bin program with consummate nkill. I "It in neldom," mivh the New York Kvening l'ont, "that one appear who) ciiii give nueh enjoyment to nil nnd ; I benefit to nludentn 11 x Mr. de IJognma. " I Knsentiiilly human, nnd modern to the! j very minute, Morix Rosenthal in in emo 1 tiouiil iieeord with our time. Thendn, In 1 fact, lie hin ability unvaryingly to en (chain the attention and nrouse the for 1 vent ndiuirntioii of contemporary critics, professional musicians mid lay 1 music lover. ' He In, in truth, nn Interpreter who letn the eomponer enk hi own me ; ntigo nnd the niuiie sound it own beau ties. Ho does not lecture but lie plty; I lie tin no arbitrary theories except that I the mnnter work of tne piano r to b I regarded never 11 o much niatliemntie j but nlwny urlinnrily n nn uppenl to ; the henrt and the eiinibilitie. The Ro entlial idmiintie nppeal in Vi all clae I and nil Kind. I "A he did when he wan last In thi , country eight yenr ngo, Mr. Mori Ho jwnthal ntmid now," nny tht New j York Time, "for the extremes d j velopmeut of the technic of th piano, j Iu everything that the wlrnrd of mod .Mil technical nkill have been able to j exploit upon the keyboard of tho in i ntniineiit, In all tlmt thev have been able to make the hoii hand, wrint and arm achiete, he tnnd mon the find." OREGON. Just a wisp of a negligee of chiffon and lace has the skirt of straight piece: of lace and chiffon drawn into a belt m F.mpire style. Straight pieces of lace and chiffon with rows of chiffon and pulling are used over the shoulders. A frill droops across the back, reaching be low the ribbon which confines the waist. V'ou can pay almost any price for a corset, but the more you pay the better you will be satisfied. The shape of the corset is of most import, for even the appearance of a perfect gown can be ab solutely marred if the corset does not fit well. Courtesy has mounted to such a pin nacle that there is a correct corset for every figure. The new models make for good carriage, easy breathing, health and comfort. They are comfortable becaiiv. the natural outline of the figure is fol lowed. The earmarks of the new corse are the more sharply curved in watrl ranging from forty-six inches, the short er i.kirt, the hips following the more n :tt:ral lines, and last but not least, tin modish flat back. The princess gown in semi-fit is he!'1 to account for the more firmly honed corsets than we have seen hitherto. ,A touch of color is evinced in sivri' and dainty patterns. Brocades, hrnelic cotitils, batistes, are used with pink colot as a first choice after white, front lice corsets come in great variations of style and materials. A lavender brocaded cor set laced down the front had platinum clasps and clastic inserts at the siilo fronts. It is most essential to have t' e corset loose enough, l'.vcry lime the corset i taken off it should 1 nnlaced and then relaced and adjusted again. If the cor set is. put on the figure when it is laced it is liable to tear or get on crooked. The French woman knows that it is wiser to tise two corsets alternately, for thev give better service in the long rtt i and do not cost any more. In Salem The lireneiit neaon find 'Nfme. find. nki pre emiiieiit tin ,Ueen of lyric nnd dramatic nong. she i re-engaged for the Metropolitan llperu houe tti sing the grent Wiigiierlnu roles with which her name In instinctively nnnoelnted nnd an Increasing number f Itnlimi roles which each aennon furnish frenh evi dence of her art ' c ontant growth, To no singer of all the Metropolitan' bril liant eoncourne doe the New York public imy more consistent bomngo, nnd nver doe the opera hotiae ring witf more tumult noun npolauae than it doe on "Grnlski night,1' An obvious enrsoqucnea of Mine. Oadnki' ever lnerensing jxipulnrltv in opera Is the limitation it place mi her availability for concert a field in which he In held In ven higher cateem. To thousand of concert goer through out the country Mm(1, Oadkl has en deared herself, nnd to these- the de mand that opem tnuke upon her time eauiw keen dUnppolntment. Only a comparatively few citie ara able to' no cur the divn for concert and recital, and uch a do may well eonsider them solve especially favored. Confession. An Trihmn saw whila . passing through a graveyard the won writ- n tvMiininiiFt 1 11 vr. 1 Hi ' U.,L.I . ...1 .1. in.. ft J 1 vj v hi. i,ii-iii, n,it inr mini Jalxr, If I was dead I'd own up to it." Br Peggy Poams. The child at an early age should be instructed in the value of simplicity in dress, and it is not a bad idea to teach as soon as possible the art of selecting gooa materials, ior n tne gin is im pressed with the desire to use only hon est textiles and to abhor over-elabora tion, this instinct will cling to her throughout life. Smartness and good taste characterize the designs of juvenile wear. The most important elements of adult modes have been modified and transferred to the uses of the younger generation. The question of style is of paramount conse quence in children's frocks, and certainly you will be surprised to see the enor mous selection following the fashion trend of the hour in children's gar ments. It is always a problem to choose a coat for a girl which will answer all possible requirements and still be at tractive and useful for all occasions. It is generally believed that flare ef fects, novel collars, belt suggestions, either placed slightly above the waist line at the normal or below the waist line, sleeves set in at the regular arm size, and novelty pockets will be used on the unusually attractive coat. Fur will be the favorite trimming. Beaver, otter, chinchilla, mole, unspotted ermine and blue and gray fox on the better coats and fur fabrics on the medium grade ones. Braids; fancy buttons, velvet and silk in' uuvciiy ciiccis win De used on many a juvenile coat, . PREPAREDNESS The Watchword in The Shipley Store Fall Display of Ready-to-Wear Garments Have You Seen the New Suits? We are more than anxious that YOU see our line be fore deciding on the Suit you are going to buy for Fall wear. Fur trimmed Box Coat Suits, Braid trimmed Box and Semi-tailored; and strictly man tailored models "Materials" are Poplin Gabardine French and Cheviot Serges Broadcloths and Manish Mixture Suitings. Priced $15.00 to $75.00. Ji ill sl4 -W iU. G. Shipley i V 1 Daughter'swardrobe A model in Bordeaux red gaberdine, with trimmings of black velvet, has a deep yoke and wide low belt in the back. The skirt is plain except the trimmings of button and velvet cord looped. The new serges for suits are of soft velvety finish unlike the ordinary serge. A quality much liked is serge moufflonne. This material appears in plain colors and smart checked and broad woven stripes. Covert cloths and gaberdines in khaki cloth are serviceable. A new haze green and the brownish tans are quite the last word in fashion. The lacings, euimps and bolera jackfrs show that the peasant influence is still strong in little lassies' dresses. Russian effects are given thought in many a prac tical frock and the military influence as serts itself in the trimmings, novelty but- ton, pockets and collars, of wee sisters' dresses. . Normal and low belted waist lines have conquered the high waisted effects. There is a wide diversity in the selec-j tion of skirts, but the olaited effects.' tion of skirts, but the plaited effects.' modified circular and two-tiered skirts! are the most appropriate, Serge for school dresses of blue with' red or army blue is the school girls' favorite. Black and white checks and plaids for entire dresses or in conjunc tion wun otner colors are made up in useiui gowns. Smocks were too well liked to be dis carded. A dress of blue and white check has a smock of solid blue, The dickey! and cuffs are of white linen and it is' collared and belted with a blue and white clicclc. SHIPLEY'S STORE We Show Coats-Coats and More Coats If you can spare the time to look through bur line of Coats you will be able to decide on the one you planned for. Our sales-people expect you to take time in de ciding and our policy is never try to sell a garment that is not just what is wanted. You will see Padrlnrlf Tlmr Phin.ri,!- 1?..- rr-.;mmoH and the New Vogue Models "U"B aim oveuy mixtures. I'nced $7.50 to $ti5.uw I iNew TailnvpH T.inon aV-.:-- n t- nuin V aists - Ostrich Neckwear Alexandre Gloves -Jrnoenix Hosierv KnvRev'a tt,i, A,u'a ?f !tr ?, Zod J,,r infant and Children-Children's t Cloth Coats Children's CWV. n,.0co00 I Womens and Misses Cloth and Silk Dresses in all the wanted materials. Pictorial Review Patterns. North Uberty Street, Salem. Oreeon suqaestions A pastel shade of blue taffeta has ftieS garniture of the skirt, the principal fea ture, which consists of huge silk covered cords' separated with puffings and a large corded bow ornamenting the hem garni ture. This trimming reaches twelve inches up on the skirt fullness, beginning at the lower edge of the hem. The low bodice has a tulle sleeve drapery which falls over the shoulders in 1830 style. A shallow guimpe of white tulle outlined in rhinestone bands has shoulder straps also of rhinestone. Pale pink posies nestling among black leaves flourisf boldly at the low waist line. A charming dance frock for a girl id tne teens is of pale crepe de chine trimmed with silk covered .cord. Beadei roses here and there are strewn over thi bodice. Underneath the upper skir peeps a narrow frill flaring with taffeti ruencs. A dress of rose taffeta has a pleated skirt with the pleats alternating with boil pleats. The waist and full sleeves are cl Lxm..ki.. a. uu j 1 mousselaine de soie embroidered in sill floss. The low girdle is outlined with) soutache, With a skirt of fluffy ruffles is a rose! color model essentially girlish. The! waist is smocked in colors to correspond wun inc. gown, ana tastens invisibly in1 uie nunc I The regular scallops of the skirt are piped in black velvet, as if to form a con necting link to the saucy sash ends of! rose satin, wnich girdles the waist. - in plush Furtex plain I & Co. mi 1 I I I I 1 uum.., .