Daily capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1903-1919, September 11, 1915, FALL 1915 FASHION SUPPLEMENT, Page FOURTEEN, Image 14

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    FOURTEEN
4 By FxtDA Leokek.
l'lio best of French ideas have been
ndopted by American dciiiicrs and
transferred into washable lingerie. Such
n display (jf charming and inactic.il con
ceils are glimpsed in the lingerie held,
that each one seems prettier than the
other. It is gralifyitiK to '""e that even
in the moderate-priced iiiiderijarmeiils
the duality is not sacrificed (or the
benefit of cheaper showy triinniiiu; ami
workmanship.
t.acc of all kinds arc used on fein
mi"c tinder apparel. Valenciennes,
( 1 1 ml io, fancy net laces, Milan and nh
lion laces Midi as lirueKes, are amply
used. Openwork, embroidery in KiiKlinh
and Madeira styles in the form of mo
tifs, wheels and dowers meet in various
v.uys with lace trimming. Little tiny
plaits alternating with hand-made open
work are features of the white lingerie,
which dues not permit of u touch of
cnlor to mar its snowy fairness.
The newest lingerie is of silk voile
trimmed with a succession of frills and
lootings.
A uixht gown trimmed with ribbon
threaded through puffs of net in Kuipirc
i.lylc had rather wide satin ribbons used
to draw the tucked tipper part together
and relied more upon the grace of out
line and daintiness of material for its
i harm than upon any adornment of lace.
Night robes of lustrous pussy willow
taffeta nre made in redingole style,
trimmed simply with bows of ribbon and
picot edging. A row of large eyelets
just heli.w the bust and unolher row just
below the knees allow wide ribbons to Tit
drawn through and tied in bow knots.
Keep square scallops at the hem finish
the rather full skirt portion
Almost all Ibr chemises have remov
able shoulder straps. They are made
shorter than usual and have gained in
width what they lost in length.
Fashions still incline towaril the cn-
elope style for they take the place of
Famous Artists May Appear
A
n 1
A
In the three tn iiMti-til tut'iMs n , ,.
be neeured f,.r Nileni (1,1, Neui, p,,1
ligrn. llii,l.sla ,i HH,-iitlial, tl. '
people cf tliiK ceininuiiity lime 1111 op
port unity with wlueli tl.'ey kIiiuiM not
dully. An U well Uvnvii' the e.iueerl
council uicn here tlu pint four ve tru
linve been under the direction nf " M ih
Minettn M tigers, who bus given 11 11
hV'iriuitly of time luut effort tliul thev
uiiitlil be Kiicieimfiil. It In utitioccsvtrj
to dwell upon tlu enjoMiieul mid 111111I
enl development tlmt ' these c,.in,es
liKve given to tlione who liuvi ntti-mled.
It in imt uncommon to hour n pernon
Mty, "Well, I lived 1 1 -t winter upon
tllu.k," or "To tliluk Hint 1 hnvo
heard HiapliHin xiiig Punuy pemoi in
Nnlrin." Tliomi re umolig the life
vent tlmt itri prlfed with nlilcli we
du not Imva to part. Then there is tins
point, eomineiTin! o.iblv, hut not
it ll to be despbed on tlint nceounl;.
tliM eouro linve helped to put n
lein on the mnp muiculv no other
sine single thing, And in putting Nil, -in
on the mnp musicHlly, doe it hurt it
uny eomnioreliillyf A towu ut is lib h din 1
tluguinlied trtUti stop, munt hnvo peo
I do, tHto and eiiterpriao, Hint to tie
nown m poMOMing the' things dccK
not hnrm nny town, So it iniiy be
iinBUnovt tint thi publio here wnntu
the eouriu to continue. 1i stop right
now when time ir beginning to look
up and when 1hree itr of nueh bii' ;
liiney cu be oblniued honestly, bow j
three rarments and may be worn over
or under the corsets, rme cottons, nam
sook, batiste, wash silk in glossy finish,
crepe de chine, new silk lingerie cloth
anil pussy willow are most extensively
sought after.
Chemises of Milanese silk having only
Valenciennes lace around the edge or
formed into a festoon with motifs of
embroidery have ribbons laced up the
side, or wherever they can be placed.
Princess slips fitted with clastic at the
waistline and around the hips, in soft
taffetas or batistes, have appeared again
after a long exile.
Owing to the raising of the corset top,
there is an increased request fyr short
bust conliners. Crepe de chine;, tricot,
net. lace and ribbon are n-it for
girdles. These girdle tb figure so as to
eliminate the ridge at the too of the
corset.
Of plain blue baby ribbon linen lace Is
a brassiere in the form of a broad rib
bon band, which passes around the bust
and is gored to fit the figure.
Brassieres with sleeves for shields are
desirable for evening dresses and where
the seamless shoulder is used.
A clever model shown n linitur r( r.w..
pink silk over which falls in full soft
ucct a paler silk lace.
Another made of double thleknesa .f
wash blonde net had all the seams joined
with heading and is edged with lace.
The shoulder straps are of white satin
ribbon and across the back is fastened
an clastic band run through a net puf-
nng.
In rcsnnnne n the wi.tili mo-r
petticoats acknowledge considerable full
ness I he soft petticoat of talfela prob
ably is more in the lead than any other.
Deep talteta ruffles are used on soft silks.
aii origmni idea is shown in a petti
'oat in which a mimntli miou fit w ?;.,..,
about the hips by means of a fitted top
Music Lovers Mast Pledge
would ilmi Innkf lul nmtiors of this
kind people urn nlow to move. They
want things but thev wuit for some one
to in like the utiut. 'Now thin tune the
committee hKh (lie people of Salem If
they iit theno nttriietiuim this winter
to niiike the ntnit theinselven, mid to
please in like it now. It urgen them
lest there be danger of hmiug tne event
altogether, not to Iohvo it nil to the
committee. The iimnngorj innke up their
vl ut in fur iu Kdvnuco, and when one
thinks too long, nome one elso is likely
to net. And no it urge earnestly the
pntron to come nt once mid attest to
their deniren. Thin year it hn been
decided to reduce the eost of lulmii
ion 11 11. 1 give the throe eoneertn tor
.1 n ticket, but five hundred ticket
nt lemt must be nold to obtnin these
artist.
Kiinlio de Uogorin, the grout Spmiinli
Imrit one, I u new eoiner hut leaven nn
Indelible iinpreion. An a true opem
nrtmt he lutn eonimand, variety and
reoiinnt mellownem of voice. There nre
nld to be hut few baritone today
dowered by nut ore with voenl nt no
giKtifyiug, nnd few who are mich eon
miimiito rtiU. Ho nueeoed U in
getting nt the heart of noiig h ing
mid In mnklug hi ndieuce fivl mid mi
dernlnnd the finent mmnce of the com
poser' IdeH. In fine, Mr. de Oogorsa
i a renl interpreter and nhnt U per
Imps even more lmprtint, from the
eoucerl goer 'a jwim of view, he plmm
CAPITAL JOURNAL
and an elastic band about the waist,
which can be removed if it is a lingerie
petticoat to be laundered.
Three- circular flounces joined one to
the other under fairly thick cord give a
suggestion of a modified hoop skirt to a
glossy garnet silk petticoat. The flounces
are sewed one to the other without any
fullness other than the fullness of the
circular edge of the ruffle. A deep flounce
of white lace on a blue taffeta imder-
kirt is frilled with black net. A gar
land of pink cbilfon roses, wreathed
here and there, give cachet to the skirt.
Petticoats in short lengths from thirty-
five to thirty-seven inches lonij are usu
ally about three yards wide.
For sheer evening gowns twin skirts
of glossy silk form a double petticoat
and fall from a single fitted yoke.
Are you deft with the needle? In a
short tune you can make the most de
lightful negligees. Hardly any work at
all will accomplish a full wiife circular
skirt with a little cape jacket outlined
with bands of swansdown, or naught but
a llight of airy ruffles may hide a dis
carded evening skirt with a waist covered
in coatee effect with chiffon.
A model of pink crepe de chine had a
ng waist jointed to a plaited skirt, long
raglan sleeves and straight cuffs. The U
neck, armholes, cuffs and bottom of waist
are scalloped and embroidered. The
list buttons with buttonholes worked in
green to represent leaves and little flower
buttons made of two shades of pink silk.
Feminine daintiness is exploited in a
liseuse of blue crepe de chine and white
Inlton checked with blue. The skirt is
(luted Hike an accordlan. The slip-on
leeveless jacket is of rhiffnn. The
jacket is laced on each side with silk
cords run through eyelets. It is trimmed
in embroidery in blue and pink on each
side, the lace collar fa Is nearly to the
waist line in the hack. Short sleeves of
crepe swing out in bell shape.
Support to Secure Stars
' : I r, 1
NX- V v WV '
bin program with consummate nkill. I
"It in neldom," mivh the New York
Kvening l'ont, "that one appear who)
ciiii give nueh enjoyment to nil nnd ;
I benefit to nludentn 11 x Mr. de IJognma. "
I Knsentiiilly human, nnd modern to the!
j very minute, Morix Rosenthal in in emo
1 tiouiil iieeord with our time. Thendn, In
1 fact, lie hin ability unvaryingly to en
(chain the attention and nrouse the for
1 vent ndiuirntioii of contemporary
critics, professional musicians mid lay
1 music lover.
' He In, in truth, nn Interpreter who
letn the eomponer enk hi own me
; ntigo nnd the niuiie sound it own beau
ties. Ho does not lecture but lie plty;
I lie tin no arbitrary theories except that
I the mnnter work of tne piano r to b
I regarded never 11 o much niatliemntie
j but nlwny urlinnrily n nn uppenl to
; the henrt and the eiinibilitie. The Ro
entlial idmiintie nppeal in Vi all clae
I and nil Kind.
I "A he did when he wan last In thi
, country eight yenr ngo, Mr. Mori Ho
jwnthal ntmid now," nny tht New
j York Time, "for the extremes d
j velopmeut of the technic of th piano,
j Iu everything that the wlrnrd of mod
.Mil technical nkill have been able to
j exploit upon the keyboard of tho in
i ntniineiit, In all tlmt thev have been
able to make the hoii hand, wrint
and arm achiete, he tnnd mon the
find."
OREGON.
Just a wisp of a negligee of chiffon
and lace has the skirt of straight piece:
of lace and chiffon drawn into a belt m
F.mpire style. Straight pieces of lace
and chiffon with rows of chiffon and
pulling are used over the shoulders. A
frill droops across the back, reaching be
low the ribbon which confines the waist.
V'ou can pay almost any price for a
corset, but the more you pay the better
you will be satisfied. The shape of the
corset is of most import, for even the
appearance of a perfect gown can be ab
solutely marred if the corset does not fit
well.
Courtesy has mounted to such a pin
nacle that there is a correct corset for
every figure. The new models make for
good carriage, easy breathing, health and
comfort. They are comfortable becaiiv.
the natural outline of the figure is fol
lowed. The earmarks of the new corse
are the more sharply curved in watrl
ranging from forty-six inches, the short
er i.kirt, the hips following the more
n :tt:ral lines, and last but not least, tin
modish flat back.
The princess gown in semi-fit is he!'1
to account for the more firmly honed
corsets than we have seen hitherto.
,A touch of color is evinced in sivri'
and dainty patterns. Brocades, hrnelic
cotitils, batistes, are used with pink colot
as a first choice after white, front lice
corsets come in great variations of style
and materials. A lavender brocaded cor
set laced down the front had platinum
clasps and clastic inserts at the siilo
fronts.
It is most essential to have t' e corset
loose enough, l'.vcry lime the corset i
taken off it should 1 nnlaced and then
relaced and adjusted again. If the cor
set is. put on the figure when it is laced
it is liable to tear or get on crooked.
The French woman knows that it is
wiser to tise two corsets alternately, for
thev give better service in the long rtt i
and do not cost any more.
In Salem
The lireneiit neaon find 'Nfme. find.
nki pre emiiieiit tin ,Ueen of lyric nnd
dramatic nong. she i re-engaged for the
Metropolitan llperu houe tti sing the
grent Wiigiierlnu roles with which her
name In instinctively nnnoelnted nnd
an Increasing number f Itnlimi roles
which each aennon furnish frenh evi
dence of her art ' c ontant growth, To
no singer of all the Metropolitan' bril
liant eoncourne doe the New York
public imy more consistent bomngo, nnd
nver doe the opera hotiae ring witf
more tumult noun npolauae than it doe
on "Grnlski night,1'
An obvious enrsoqucnea of Mine.
Oadnki' ever lnerensing jxipulnrltv in
opera Is the limitation it place mi her
availability for concert a field in
which he In held In ven higher cateem.
To thousand of concert goer through
out the country Mm(1, Oadkl has en
deared herself, nnd to these- the de
mand that opem tnuke upon her time
eauiw keen dUnppolntment. Only a
comparatively few citie ara able to' no
cur the divn for concert and recital,
and uch a do may well eonsider them
solve especially favored.
Confession.
An Trihmn saw whila . passing
through a graveyard the won writ-
n tvMiininiiFt 1 11 vr. 1 Hi '
U.,L.I . ...1 .1. in..
ft J 1
vj
v hi. i,ii-iii, n,it inr mini
Jalxr, If I was dead I'd own up to
it."
Br Peggy Poams.
The child at an early age should be
instructed in the value of simplicity in
dress, and it is not a bad idea to teach
as soon as possible the art of selecting
gooa materials, ior n tne gin is im
pressed with the desire to use only hon
est textiles and to abhor over-elabora
tion, this instinct will cling to her
throughout life.
Smartness and good taste characterize
the designs of juvenile wear. The most
important elements of adult modes have
been modified and transferred to the
uses of the younger generation. The
question of style is of paramount conse
quence in children's frocks, and certainly
you will be surprised to see the enor
mous selection following the fashion
trend of the hour in children's gar
ments. It is always a problem to choose a
coat for a girl which will answer all
possible requirements and still be at
tractive and useful for all occasions.
It is generally believed that flare ef
fects, novel collars, belt suggestions,
either placed slightly above the waist line
at the normal or below the waist line,
sleeves set in at the regular arm size,
and novelty pockets will be used on the
unusually attractive coat. Fur will be
the favorite trimming. Beaver, otter,
chinchilla, mole, unspotted ermine and
blue and gray fox on the better coats and
fur fabrics on the medium grade ones.
Braids; fancy buttons, velvet and silk in'
uuvciiy ciiccis win De used on many a
juvenile coat, .
PREPAREDNESS
The Watchword in The Shipley Store
Fall Display of
Ready-to-Wear Garments
Have You Seen the New Suits?
We are more than anxious that YOU see our line be
fore deciding on the Suit you are going to buy for Fall
wear. Fur trimmed Box Coat Suits, Braid trimmed
Box and Semi-tailored; and strictly man tailored
models "Materials" are Poplin Gabardine French
and Cheviot Serges Broadcloths and Manish Mixture
Suitings. Priced $15.00 to $75.00.
Ji
ill sl4
-W
iU. G. Shipley
i V
1
Daughter'swardrobe
A model in Bordeaux red gaberdine,
with trimmings of black velvet, has a
deep yoke and wide low belt in the back.
The skirt is plain except the trimmings
of button and velvet cord looped.
The new serges for suits are of soft
velvety finish unlike the ordinary serge.
A quality much liked is serge moufflonne.
This material appears in plain colors
and smart checked and broad woven
stripes. Covert cloths and gaberdines in
khaki cloth are serviceable. A new haze
green and the brownish tans are quite the
last word in fashion.
The lacings, euimps and bolera jackfrs
show that the peasant influence is still
strong in little lassies' dresses. Russian
effects are given thought in many a prac
tical frock and the military influence as
serts itself in the trimmings, novelty but-
ton, pockets and collars, of wee sisters'
dresses. .
Normal and low belted waist lines
have conquered the high waisted effects.
There is a wide diversity in the selec-j
tion of skirts, but the olaited effects.'
tion of skirts, but the plaited effects.'
modified circular and two-tiered skirts!
are the most appropriate,
Serge for school dresses of blue with'
red or army blue is the school girls'
favorite. Black and white checks and
plaids for entire dresses or in conjunc
tion wun otner colors are made up in
useiui gowns.
Smocks were too well liked to be dis
carded. A dress of blue and white check
has a smock of solid blue, The dickey!
and cuffs are of white linen and it is'
collared and belted with a blue and white
clicclc.
SHIPLEY'S STORE
We Show Coats-Coats
and
More Coats
If you can spare the time to look through bur line of
Coats you will be able to decide on the one you planned
for. Our sales-people expect you to take time in de
ciding and our policy is never try to sell a garment that
is not just what is wanted.
You will see Padrlnrlf Tlmr Phin.ri,!- 1?..- rr-.;mmoH
and the New Vogue Models
"U"B aim oveuy mixtures. I'nced $7.50 to $ti5.uw I
iNew TailnvpH T.inon aV-.:-- n t- nuin V
aists - Ostrich Neckwear Alexandre Gloves -Jrnoenix
Hosierv KnvRev'a tt,i, A,u'a
?f !tr ?, Zod J,,r infant and Children-Children's t
Cloth Coats Children's CWV. n,.0co00 I
Womens and Misses Cloth and Silk Dresses
in all the wanted materials.
Pictorial Review Patterns.
North Uberty Street, Salem. Oreeon
suqaestions
A pastel shade of blue taffeta has ftieS
garniture of the skirt, the principal fea
ture, which consists of huge silk covered
cords' separated with puffings and a large
corded bow ornamenting the hem garni
ture. This trimming reaches twelve
inches up on the skirt fullness, beginning
at the lower edge of the hem. The low
bodice has a tulle sleeve drapery which
falls over the shoulders in 1830 style. A
shallow guimpe of white tulle outlined
in rhinestone bands has shoulder straps
also of rhinestone. Pale pink posies
nestling among black leaves flourisf
boldly at the low waist line.
A charming dance frock for a girl id
tne teens is of pale crepe de chine
trimmed with silk covered .cord. Beadei
roses here and there are strewn over thi
bodice. Underneath the upper skir
peeps a narrow frill flaring with taffeti
ruencs.
A dress of rose taffeta has a pleated
skirt with the pleats alternating with boil
pleats. The waist and full sleeves are cl
Lxm..ki.. a. uu j 1
mousselaine de soie embroidered in sill
floss. The low girdle is outlined with)
soutache,
With a skirt of fluffy ruffles is a rose!
color model essentially girlish. The!
waist is smocked in colors to correspond
wun inc. gown, ana tastens invisibly in1
uie nunc
I The regular scallops of the skirt are
piped in black velvet, as if to form a con
necting link to the saucy sash ends of!
rose satin, wnich girdles the waist.
- in plush Furtex plain I
& Co.
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