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About Klamath republican. (Klamath Falls, Or.) 1896-1914 | View Entire Issue (Feb. 12, 1914)
CAL11UKN1A EAKAI EK SECTION 13 - —------------------------------------ Our Weekly Fashion Service for the Home Dressmaker [ In Making Your Own Dresses. </<>!> Judgment and reasonable I E carofulneas at the beginning fii'tors of the work are thr principal In au<ceasful dressmaking," says a practical dressmaker In writing for n woman'a publication. "Careless cutting and boating aland for trouble« later on." she adds. Patterna are made by capable dressmakers. and the marks placed on them for our guidance should lot observed and followed. The very drat piece of advice, then, for the home dressmaker to to do la study your pattern. Hear! the directions on the envelope, then take the pattern out, apread the pieces and assure your self Just what part of the garment ea< h piece represents. If you are a real beginner. It |a not a bail Idea to pill the various pieces together ac cording to the printed directions be fore you begin to cut the cloth. Then, having a clear Idea of how each piece should be used, study your ilolh. lb.' till ore. the "naii" lias It an up-to-date nap, like l>roadc|oth, w hose nap must run up, or velvet, w hoae nap must run up? or la there « design that makes a decided "up end down" to the goods? He very cer tain, then, that you cut ail the pieces t<> run the same way. Obviously, this will require more material than If th» pattern places may be laid on wher ever they will nt without regard to direction The matter of laying the pattern on the material so It will cut to the best advantage, economically, Is an accom plishment that ran only come with experience and ezperlment A little square of tailor's chalk la almost In dispensable to the dressmaker Tailors always use II another proof, perhaps of the claim that mm are more In sistent <>n satisfactory and helpful t<s»la tluin women. The chalk Is very In- extwnslve and to be found In most notion or small ware departments. Jt must lw* kept sharp by scraping the Shir edges with knife or scissors blade, so It can be made to produce a fine line when pushed along the doth. The chalk la used primarily for outlining the edges of the pattern to the cloth, and since we do not want to make chalk marks on the right side of our fabric i though slight marks may be readily brushed off), always fold the material with the right side In. leaving the wrong side for the chalk marks to be made on. It Is always advisable that woolens, cottons and linens be shrunk before cutting. Most woolens of the better class arc sold already shrunk, but If not. great care must be used that they are not “atrstchsd off the straight"— come straight to us from Parle, ac I. e. pulled so that the threads do cording to a New Turk fashion writer. not run straight In the weave--as the Hut, bouffant as are the fashlona, garment, when made, will pull crooked they have refused the minaret tunic and no amount of fixing can over with Its wide wired spread, and have come It. even narrowed the hems of the skirts I^iy all of the pattern on the doth Around our hips plaits and gathers before cutting any of the pieces The and puffs ami paniera are applied; our pattern directions tell you which are sleeves criMind with surplus material the perforations that Indicate the way and our throat ornaments are permit each piece of doth la laid on. !>o not ted to wave In any manner at all. under any circumstances disregard the Hut at the ankles we hnve the same Instruction, for. although you may old rigid enforcement of the "skirt- seem to waste cloth by cutting ex cuff," to quote a waggish fashion actly by the straight line Indicated, writer. the finished garment will show how One of the features of the new taffeta necessary nas been this particularity. modes brought from abroad Is the lit The width of seam to be left la an tle looae coatee, ending at the waist other point to consider. Different ma line, often going up on a point at the terials require different size seams. front or at times rounding a bolero Thin, loosely-woven materials that arc curve. The coatee is, like all the new likely to fray or ravel require wider models, cut low nt the neck, and Its seams than closely woven, firm fab elbow sleeves arc loose and frequently rics. Three-eighths of an inch is the boll-aha|w*d Under this coatee is ordinary seam allowance on firm goods, worn the blouse of sheerest lace, but some materials may need twice which Is the Inevitable accompaniment that width. It la usually advisable to of the present mode. leave an Inch-wide arum at the under And speaking of these lace blouses, arm and shoulder seam (when the they will be the "only thing" for the waist has such a seam», for here is spring. An for the lnoe which composes where most of the aleration will come. them It Is, In fact, a mere shadow of The Raglan Sleeve. the former shadow. Ko thin and line Is The rnglan sleeve Is one of the Its mesh that veiling Is the term by newest fashion revivals. It la an adap which we must know It. And. as may tation of the popular kimono sleeve, well lie imagined. It takas yards and of thlc cobwebby stuff to which, too well liked Io be discarded, yards must needs bo ••freshened" up u bit to achieve a "covering." be really "the mode." The new sleeve begins at the neck, the entire sleeve Tiger skin doth, a are the latest being cut In one piece, and takes the wear f< r the Parisicnna who wishes to place of the yoke on the blouse. keep abreast of the turhlon or get Taffeta* and Lace* to Be Leader*. According to early Indications, taf feta« are to tai "the" things for the spring fashions. And the styles will be the "bouffant” or outstanding. With the soft, "slinking" silks the styles were of the dinging sort. Now that fashion decrees gathers about the hips the silks must be ntifT enough to carry out the modes. Ho we are going back to the styles of our grandmothers Tufted sleeves, gathers about the hips, boned waists, gowns cut low on the shoulders, ruffles and ruches and bustles. These are a few of the things ahead of it. At the race* yesterday an elegant American woman created a sensation by appenrlng In one which. If her own statement to an envious friend Is to be believed, cost $6001. last spring an attempt was mado to Intro duce faint her clothes for those who could pay thet price, but the fashion hr.d as feeble a success as this latest extravagance is likely to have. Many of the tulle dresses are made with three-tiered skirts and tunics, the low bodice failing full over plaited basque. 54H5 A costume suitable for wear under a long coat or for early spring when tahe Jacket Is discarded, is pictured here In old gold eponge with lace band trimming anti collar dyed to match. A girdle of olive green satin and small buttons covered with similar satin present an effective con trast. The waist la made without lining and may have high collar, or a low collar with rounded ba< k and square front. One-piece sleeves in full or el bow length may be chosen. The attached skirt is very smart. It is In upper and lower sections, giving the effect of a short tunic and underskirt. H«ch section is cut In three pieces and the width around the lower edge is two yards In the medium else. Costume No. 549S, sizes 32, 3$, 3$, 38, 40, 43 44 and 46 inches bust measure Size 36 requires four and one-fourth yards 44-lnch material, four yards liandlntl, one-fourth yard 18-inch al lover lace for collar and three-fourth yard 27-lnch satin for girdle. Price IS cents. 6114-8221—Notable for both fabric selected and for modish outline is the second model. It was developed in one of the new fashionable plaids In shade* of old gold, blue and green. Cuffs and large collar are of broadcloth tn an old gold shade. Nmall round collar Is of black velvet. Suitable alike for the stout or slender woman is the smartly cutaway Jacket with curved front line and popular three-quarter length sleeve*. Accompanying the Jacket is a plain two-piece skirt with a few shullow plaits simulating a touch of drapery, held In by the attached tab trimining. Width around the lower edge In medium size Is one and flve-eighthvard. Jacket No. 5114. sizes 32. 34, 36. 38, 40, 42 and 44 Inches bust measure. Price 15 cents. Hkirt No. 5221, sizes 21, 23, 23, 24. 26. 28, 30 and 33 Inches waist measure. Price 15 cents. 5611-5468— To bo able to dress in the mode at the minimum of expense Is made possible by designs such as these. The Jacket Is on smart bolero lines with open front, and attractive back terminating tn a postilion which may be omitted. The skirt Is the popular peg-top model and measures in the medium size one and one-fourth yards at the lower edge. Black broad cloth was chosen for the costume and FTench blue satin for the girdle. Bolero No. 5511, sizes 32, 34. 36. 38, 40 and 42 bust measure. Price 10 cents. Skirt No. 5469, sizes .1, . ' 24, 26. 2S. .'.i> and 22 waist measure Price 15 cents. 5510-5321—Protection from winter blasts is afforded by this all-envelop ing coat. It was made of tan zibeline but wool velour, ratine, broche, chin chilla nnd astrachan cloth are also desirable selections. One-piece sleeves turned back to form cuffs, large pockets, and belt confining the garment loosely are attractive details. The skirt worn with thia coat is of blue satin. It 1« draped model mounted on a three-piece foundation one and one-fourth yards In width at the lower edge In medium size. Coat No. 5510, sizes 32, 34, 36. 38. 40 and 42 inches bust measure. Price 15 cents. Skirt No. 5321, sizes 21, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 and 32 waist measure. Price 15 cents. Address THE CALIFORNIA FARMER, 24 ’.V. Santa Clara St., San Jose. No Cal ................................................................ Name Address ................................................................................ . ........................................... .. ........................................................ ........................................ . ...................... • ••■ HlzO ................................. ....................................................................... .. NOTICE—All persona sanding for patterna muit bo euro to give nama, full address and number of pattern distinctly written. Until thio io done delay ie caused and aatiefaction can not be expected. Patterne delivered on mail orders in two or three day*.
