CAL11UKN1A EAKAI EK SECTION
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Our Weekly Fashion Service for the Home Dressmaker [
In Making Your Own Dresses.
</<>!> Judgment and reasonable
I E carofulneas at the beginning
fii'tors
of the work are thr principal
In au<ceasful dressmaking,"
says a practical dressmaker In writing
for n woman'a publication. "Careless
cutting and boating aland for trouble«
later on." she adds. Patterna are made
by
capable
dressmakers.
and
the
marks placed on them for our guidance
should lot observed and followed. The
very drat piece of advice, then, for
the home dressmaker to to do la study
your pattern. Hear! the directions on
the envelope, then take the pattern
out, apread the pieces and assure your
self Just what part of the garment
ea< h piece represents.
If you are a
real beginner. It |a not a bail Idea to
pill the various pieces together ac
cording to the printed directions be
fore you begin to cut the cloth.
Then, having a clear Idea of how
each piece should be used, study your
ilolh. lb.' till ore. the "naii"
lias It
an up-to-date nap, like l>roadc|oth,
w hose nap must run up, or velvet,
w hoae nap must run up? or la there
« design that makes a decided "up
end down" to the goods? He very cer
tain, then, that you cut ail the pieces
t<> run the same way. Obviously, this
will require more material than If th»
pattern places may be laid on wher
ever they will nt without regard to
direction
The matter of laying the pattern on
the material so It will cut to the best
advantage, economically, Is an accom
plishment that ran only come with
experience and ezperlment
A little
square of tailor's chalk la almost In
dispensable to the dressmaker Tailors
always use II another proof, perhaps
of the claim that mm are more In
sistent <>n satisfactory and helpful t<s»la
tluin women.
The chalk Is very In-
extwnslve and to be found In most
notion or small ware departments. Jt
must lw* kept sharp by scraping the
Shir edges with knife or scissors blade,
so It can be made to produce a fine line
when pushed along the doth.
The
chalk la used primarily for outlining
the edges of the pattern to the cloth,
and since we do not want to make
chalk marks on the right side of our
fabric i though slight marks may be
readily brushed off), always fold the
material with the right side In. leaving
the wrong side for the chalk marks to
be made on.
It Is always advisable that woolens,
cottons and linens be shrunk before
cutting.
Most woolens of the better
class arc sold already shrunk, but If
not. great care must be used that they
are not “atrstchsd off the straight"—
come straight to us from Parle, ac
I. e. pulled so that the threads do
cording to a New Turk fashion writer.
not run straight In the weave--as the
Hut, bouffant as are the fashlona,
garment, when made, will pull crooked
they have refused the minaret tunic
and no amount of fixing can over
with Its wide wired spread, and have
come It.
even narrowed the hems of the skirts
I^iy all of the pattern on the doth
Around our hips plaits and gathers
before cutting any of the pieces
The
and puffs ami paniera are applied; our
pattern directions tell you which are
sleeves criMind with surplus material
the perforations that Indicate the way
and our throat ornaments are permit
each piece of doth la laid on. !>o not
ted to wave In any manner at all.
under any circumstances disregard the
Hut at the ankles we hnve the same
Instruction, for. although you may
old rigid enforcement of the "skirt-
seem to waste cloth by cutting ex
cuff," to quote a waggish
fashion
actly by the straight line Indicated,
writer.
the finished garment will show how
One of the features of the new taffeta
necessary nas been this particularity.
modes brought from abroad Is the lit
The width of seam to be left la an
tle looae coatee, ending at the waist
other point to consider. Different ma
line, often going up on a point at the
terials require different size seams.
front or at times rounding a bolero
Thin, loosely-woven materials that arc
curve. The coatee is, like all the new
likely to fray or ravel require wider
models, cut low nt the neck, and Its
seams than closely woven, firm fab
elbow sleeves arc loose and frequently
rics. Three-eighths of an inch is the
boll-aha|w*d
Under
this coatee is
ordinary seam allowance on firm goods,
worn the blouse of sheerest lace,
but some materials may need twice
which Is the Inevitable accompaniment
that width. It la usually advisable to
of the present mode.
leave an Inch-wide arum at the under
And speaking of these lace blouses,
arm and shoulder seam (when the
they will be the "only thing" for the
waist has such a seam», for here is
spring. An for the lnoe which composes
where most of the aleration will come.
them It Is, In fact, a mere shadow of
The Raglan Sleeve.
the former shadow. Ko thin and line Is
The rnglan sleeve Is one of the Its mesh that veiling Is the term by
newest fashion revivals. It la an adap which we must know It. And. as may
tation of the popular kimono sleeve, well lie imagined. It takas yards and
of thlc cobwebby
stuff to
which, too well liked Io be discarded, yards
must needs bo ••freshened" up u bit to achieve a "covering."
be really "the mode." The new sleeve
begins at the neck, the entire sleeve
Tiger skin doth, a are the latest
being cut In one piece, and takes the wear f< r the Parisicnna who wishes to
place of the yoke on the blouse.
keep abreast of the turhlon or get
Taffeta* and Lace* to Be Leader*.
According to early Indications, taf
feta« are to tai "the" things for the
spring fashions. And the styles will be
the "bouffant” or outstanding.
With
the soft, "slinking" silks the styles
were of the dinging sort.
Now that
fashion decrees gathers about
the
hips the silks must be ntifT enough to
carry out the modes. Ho we are going
back to the styles of our grandmothers
Tufted sleeves, gathers about the hips,
boned waists, gowns cut low on the
shoulders,
ruffles
and
ruches and
bustles. These are a few of the things
ahead of it.
At the race* yesterday
an elegant American woman created
a sensation by appenrlng In one which.
If her own statement to an envious
friend Is to be believed, cost $6001. last
spring an attempt was mado to Intro
duce faint her clothes for those who
could pay thet price, but the fashion
hr.d as feeble a success as this latest
extravagance is likely to have.
Many of the tulle dresses are made
with three-tiered skirts and
tunics,
the low bodice failing full over plaited
basque.
54H5 A costume suitable for wear under a long coat
or for early
spring when tahe Jacket Is discarded, is pictured here In old gold eponge
with lace band trimming anti collar dyed to match. A girdle of olive green
satin and small buttons covered with similar satin present an effective con
trast. The waist la made without lining and may have high collar, or a low
collar with rounded ba< k and square front. One-piece sleeves in full or el
bow length may be chosen.
The attached skirt is very smart.
It is In
upper and lower sections, giving the effect of a short tunic and underskirt.
H«ch section is cut In three pieces and the width around the lower edge is
two yards In the medium else. Costume No. 549S, sizes 32, 3$, 3$, 38, 40, 43
44 and 46 inches bust measure
Size 36 requires four and one-fourth yards
44-lnch material, four yards liandlntl, one-fourth yard 18-inch al lover lace
for collar and three-fourth yard 27-lnch satin for girdle. Price IS cents.
6114-8221—Notable for both fabric selected and for modish outline is the
second model.
It was developed in one of the new fashionable plaids In
shade* of old gold, blue and green. Cuffs and large collar are of broadcloth
tn an old gold shade. Nmall round collar Is of black velvet. Suitable alike
for the stout or slender woman is the smartly cutaway Jacket with curved front
line and popular three-quarter length sleeve*. Accompanying the Jacket is a
plain two-piece skirt with a few shullow plaits simulating
a
touch
of
drapery, held In by the attached tab trimining. Width around the lower edge
In medium size Is one and flve-eighthvard. Jacket No. 5114. sizes 32. 34, 36.
38, 40, 42 and 44 Inches bust measure. Price 15 cents. Hkirt No. 5221, sizes
21, 23, 23, 24. 26. 28, 30 and 33 Inches waist measure. Price 15 cents.
5611-5468— To bo able to dress in the mode at the minimum of expense
Is made possible by designs such as these. The Jacket Is on smart bolero
lines with open front, and attractive back terminating tn a postilion which
may be omitted. The skirt Is the popular
peg-top model and measures in
the medium size one and one-fourth yards at the lower edge. Black broad
cloth was chosen for the costume and FTench blue satin for the girdle.
Bolero No. 5511, sizes 32, 34. 36. 38, 40 and 42 bust measure. Price 10 cents.
Skirt No. 5469, sizes .1, . ' 24, 26. 2S. .'.i> and 22
waist measure
Price 15
cents.
5510-5321—Protection from winter blasts is afforded by this all-envelop
ing coat. It was made of tan zibeline but wool velour, ratine, broche, chin
chilla nnd astrachan cloth are also desirable selections.
One-piece sleeves
turned back to form cuffs, large pockets, and belt confining the garment
loosely are attractive details. The skirt worn with thia coat is of blue satin.
It 1« draped model mounted on a three-piece foundation one and one-fourth
yards In width at the lower edge In medium size. Coat No. 5510, sizes 32, 34,
36. 38. 40 and 42 inches bust measure.
Price 15 cents.
Skirt No. 5321,
sizes 21, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 and 32 waist measure. Price 15 cents.
Address THE CALIFORNIA FARMER, 24 ’.V. Santa Clara St., San Jose.
No
Cal
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Name
Address
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NOTICE—All persona sanding for patterna muit bo euro to give nama,
full address and number of pattern distinctly written. Until thio io done
delay ie caused and aatiefaction can not be expected.
Patterne delivered on mail orders in two or three day*.