Image provided by: Klamath County Museums; Klamath Falls, OR
About Klamath republican. (Klamath Falls, Or.) 1896-1914 | View Entire Issue (Feb. 5, 1914)
CALIFORNIA FARMER SECTION 13 Our Weekly Fashion Service for the Home Dressmaker E finished cutting out thn gnr- W II»nt and marking the various parts for Idolit Itlcalion ami for sewing together In tl><< last lasson, and arn now ready to baste thn gar ment for thn first Atting. Now you sen tho Importane» of every notch amt perforation mark, for If cut accurately und matched. the ararne should come •nit even, top ami bottom Hmooth and »traiglieli th» seams, so that the ma terial Iles straight on both Its up-and- down und cross grain. In busting the skirt gores, lay the lees Idas on the told» am! over It tho morn bias, watch the noli hrs matching them carefully, so that top and bottom are even Pin th» eilgrs at Intervals, then buste while It Iles fiat upon th» table With the »■ urns ull basted we nro now ready for the fitting The waist line in th» starting point, und ua them In no lining it must ba firmly and de finitely placed Either stout und strong lining material or regular belt web bing fthi- latter In preferable* should then be pinned around the waist the true waistline. Hlip on the waist, lap the front and pin It down evenly Himo ull waists blouse a little ovi-r the licit, draw the material upward a trifle to give tlie fashionable effect, und pin the waist to the belt at the center front unit center Igwk Then, with the same amount of blousing, pin the under arm scums nt trie notch murks ut tho top of the l><'lt which, by th» way, should liuvc been marked with ull the notches ns shown on the paper pattsm of Hie waistband Then pin Ito blouse to the left, ull around, distributing the fullness I'ltween these points first pinned in place Should the waist seem too full, tho under-arm scums may be made deeper, though the patterns of today arc not Intended to nt the figure closely, and a 'trim" figure Is not considered an stylish ns the ■slouch" just now. The toi k will show you whether It needs taking up on the shoulders Few fig uren are pet feet, und some alterations ure needed in almost every puttern. If the figure Is shorter In measure from neck to waist than the model pattern measurements, for Instance, the neck of the wnlst will seem too low and perhaps too loose In this case one must lift tho wnlst by making the shoulder seams deeper, and cutting nway the cireM material below the waistline before the skirt is draped And now the skirt Husted and ready to drape. It is slipped <>n und pinned to tlie twit ut the center-front and cen ter Imk, then at th» sides The col ored bastings that were made down th» center of the front and back gor'-a in our lust lesson are guides to the even hanging of the two sides if the colored basting at the center front <1<MS not hang in a straight line from the waist to the floor the trouble Ilea with the sides, and the skirt must he drawn up nt the waist on the side of the smaller bl|> until the front »lasting hangs absolutely strnight The luistlng < <>■!(• Mi r 4*as nt the buck will be made straight by this ojieratlon Nhould there I* much and designs since the ttvll war." Theu Inequality In the sine of the hips, it calico was the "gown elegant” for ini may be n« ■ -nary to run deeper seams lady's wear; the new vogue will bring <,n the smaller side To sew up the as great popularity to challis, either seams, robaste those that have been cotton or wool. made larger, then trim them to three- Home manufacturers and many de eighths of an inch, but stitch th<m signers d.ilnre gowns of challis will only one-eighth of an inch from the Im so strong a feature of the spring edge Take out tiaetlngs, turn gar modes as to supersede the popularity ment Inside out und stitch seams again of foulards Coloring* ar»- all vivid, hut one-fourth Inch dorp This, If you de not crudely so. In every Instance strong sire what In known an a "French” colored backgrounds are softened in Beam; othcrwlne stitch the seam effect by the clever Introduction of three-eighths of an Inch from the edge printed designs In contrasting colors, and overcast the edges. so that the generul effect Is decidedly Haste the collar around the neck. Its soft and Oriental in appearance. edges even with the neck edge, then “Almost any wnlst line will do," says buste over It a narrow blns strip >f the fashion maker, which means that the material for a facing. t'onllnue one may choose tho height of line most thia down edge of front; turn It under becoming. yet be fashionable. The new toward Insidi' of waist and stitch It er mid most fashionably correct will, down. Haste similarly, u piece of bias however, be the hip line a loose, low- material around the wrists of the lying waistline, or, In many cases, none sleeves nml stitch down. Place sleeve nt all. Tailored suits, however, have In arm hole, according to notches the normal or slightly lifted wulstllne. with the Inside seam so placed ns to There will be much fullness over and follow down the arm mid In line with around the hips, a very narrow, ankle width skirt, slashed, opened halfway the thumb. to tho knee or split at the back and The newest gowns from Puris, those lifted a little at this position, and puffy which exclusive dressmakers are hid frills with tie-back» to keep them lit ing In tlMMiK- paper at the bottom of position. Jackets are short. The separate short huge wardrobe drawers for the delecta tion of milady's Hpting coming out, are coat will appear In every sort of mil- terlnl and for wear on every occasion. mudo of challis. 'I'he sleeveless jacket Is another Im This material tins come to the fori' with a rush, mol the most exclusive minent <'«M4t style. It Is being worked of the Pmlslmi designers are using Into every sort of gown, even tho cot challis In pince of foulard, producing ton dresses, mid these Include crepes gowns fusi-Inn 111 ig I y teiiullfiil from the of all sorts and kinds, embroidered ns voiles mid exquisite stuff with Its dainty de well as printed; challis, mulls. All such gowns are sheer. There signs. The fashions demand the use of soft fore the Invariable tunic, with Its two mid dinging materials while the de or three skirts, is seemingly made in signs mid colorings, partaking as they one piece, with corselet waist or Jacket, do of tho bizarre and Oriental, require low-glrdle<l and without sleeves. The most careful handling If one would pro undel’bodlee Is of tulle or net or some bishop sleeves duce nn artistic result. No the prophet sheer material, with of fashion predicts The greatest vogue reaching to the wrist and confined In for gowns of all sorts and descriptions quaint puffed effects, simulating tho made of cottons of varying weights old Elizabethan sleeve of antiquity. • •••■■<■ MM IMIS*» .VWG ¿493 Dress at all time* should be suited to the occasion on which it ic worn. Simple modes for morning and business wear are invariably riven preference by women of taste and discrimination. A model which meets every practical requirement is illustrated to the extreme loft. It waa devel- oped in tun pungee. brown satin being chosen for collar, insert and cuffs. No lining is used Adjustable shield and Ion* sleeves are acceptable varia tions The skirl is a four-piece model attached at the high waistline and measures two yards around the lower edge In the medium slxe. Other suitable mall rluls an- serge, cheviot, eponge, ratine, challis and Devonshire cloth. Cos tume No. ¿493. sixes 32, 34. 36. 38, 40, 42, 44, 46 and 48 inches bust measure. Sis. 36 required 4't yards 36-lnch material and % yard 27-inch contrasting fabric. Price, IS cents. 492« -Long, unbroken lines and simplicity of construction adapt this costume for wear by the woman who Is short or stout. A very attractive house dress Is illustrated, employing u new fabric, hetero cylk, a variety of mercerized batistfc In a very firm quality In this development a lav ender and white striped design was used, with collar and cuffs of lavender lawn An adjustable shield of net, lace or luitiste gives a dressy touch and provides high neck for those who prefer It. Long sleeves with either deep or narrow cuffs may be selected in plac • of the short ones illustrated. The attached five-gored skirt fits the figure snugly and measures in the medium sixe 2% yards around the lower edge. Costume No. 4926, sixes 32, 34, 36. 38, 40. 42. 44 and 46 Inches bust measure. Sixe 36 requires 4%i yards 44-inch material and 1-2 yard 27-lnch contrasting fabric. Price, 15 cents. 549.> The distinctive feature of this up-to-date, one-piece costume Is th* smart skirt with upper part lapping over the under section to simulate a tunic. An attractive variety of mercerized batiste In white with a violet floral motif was the fabric chosen. A row of embroidered batiste insertion extend ing down tho front and around Imth sections of the skirt constitutes an at tractive trimming. The waist is made without lining. Either high or flat collar and long or short sleeves may be chosen. Tho attached skirt consists of three-piece upper and lower sections. It measures 2 yards at the lower edge. Costume No. 5495, sizes 32, 34. 36. 38, 40, 42, 44 and 46 Inches bust measure. Sixe 36 requires 4?* yards 36-inch material and 6 yards Insertion. Price, 15 cents. AdJrcss THE CALIFORNIA FARMER, 24 ”,V. Santa Clara St., San Joso, Cal No .......................................................................... Name Address ................. ■••••••••«* • •••• ....................................................... Sizo ................................. ............................................... . ••••••••••« .................. .. NOTICE—All persons sending for patterns must be sure to give name, full address and number of pattern distinctly written. Until this is done dolay is caused and satisfaction can not be expected. Patterns delivered on mail ardors in two or three days.