CALIFORNIA FARMER SECTION
13
Our Weekly Fashion Service for the Home Dressmaker
E finished cutting out thn gnr-
W
II»nt and marking the various
parts
for
Idolit Itlcalion
ami
for sewing together In tl><< last lasson,
and arn now ready to baste thn gar
ment for thn first Atting. Now you sen
tho Importane» of every notch
amt
perforation mark, for If cut accurately
und matched. the ararne should come
•nit even, top ami bottom Hmooth and
»traiglieli th» seams, so that the ma
terial Iles straight on both Its up-and-
down und cross grain. In busting the
skirt gores, lay the lees Idas on the
told» am! over It tho morn bias, watch
the noli hrs matching them carefully,
so that top and bottom are even Pin
th» eilgrs at Intervals, then buste while
It Iles fiat upon th» table
With the »■ urns ull basted we nro
now ready for the fitting The waist
line in th» starting point, und ua them
In no lining it must ba firmly and de
finitely placed Either stout und strong
lining material or regular belt web
bing fthi- latter In preferable* should
then be pinned around the waist the
true waistline. Hlip on the waist, lap
the front and pin It down evenly Himo
ull waists blouse a little ovi-r the licit,
draw the material upward a trifle to
give tlie fashionable effect, und pin the
waist to the belt at the center front
unit center Igwk Then, with the same
amount of blousing,
pin the
under
arm scums nt trie notch murks ut tho
top of the l><'lt which, by th» way,
should liuvc been marked with ull the
notches ns shown on the paper pattsm
of Hie waistband Then pin Ito blouse
to the left, ull around, distributing the
fullness I'ltween
these
points first
pinned in place
Should the waist seem too full, tho
under-arm scums may be made deeper,
though the patterns of today arc not
Intended to nt the figure closely, and
a 'trim" figure Is not considered
an
stylish ns the ■slouch" just now. The
toi k will show you whether It needs
taking up on the shoulders Few fig
uren are pet feet, und some alterations
ure needed in almost every puttern. If
the figure Is shorter In measure from
neck to waist than the model pattern
measurements, for Instance, the neck
of the wnlst will seem too low and
perhaps too loose
In this case one
must lift tho wnlst by making the
shoulder seams deeper,
and
cutting
nway the cireM material below the
waistline before the skirt is draped
And now the skirt Husted and ready
to drape. It is slipped <>n und pinned
to tlie twit ut the center-front and cen
ter Imk, then at th» sides The col
ored bastings that were made down
th» center of the front and back gor'-a
in our lust lesson are guides to the
even hanging of the two sides if the
colored basting at the center front
<1<MS not hang in a straight line from
the waist to the floor the trouble Ilea
with the sides, and the skirt must he
drawn up nt the waist on the side of
the smaller bl|> until the front »lasting
hangs absolutely strnight The luistlng
< <>■!(• Mi r 4*as
nt the buck will be made straight by
this ojieratlon Nhould there I* much and designs since the ttvll war." Theu
Inequality In the sine of the hips, it calico was the "gown elegant” for ini
may be n« ■ -nary to run deeper seams lady's wear; the new vogue will bring
<,n the smaller side
To sew up the as great popularity to challis, either
seams, robaste those that have been cotton or wool.
made larger, then trim them to three-
Home manufacturers and many de
eighths of an inch, but stitch th<m signers d.ilnre gowns of challis will
only one-eighth of an inch from the Im so strong a feature of the spring
edge Take out
tiaetlngs, turn gar modes as to supersede the popularity
ment Inside out und stitch seams again of foulards Coloring* ar»- all vivid, hut
one-fourth Inch dorp This, If you de not crudely so. In every Instance strong
sire what In known an a "French” colored backgrounds are softened in
Beam;
othcrwlne
stitch
the
seam effect by the clever Introduction
of
three-eighths of an Inch from the edge printed designs In contrasting colors,
and overcast the edges.
so that the generul effect Is decidedly
Haste the collar around the neck. Its soft and Oriental in appearance.
edges even with the neck edge, then
“Almost any wnlst line will do," says
buste over It a narrow blns strip >f the fashion maker, which means that
the material for a facing.
t'onllnue one may choose tho height of line most
thia down edge of front; turn It under becoming. yet be fashionable. The new
toward Insidi' of waist and stitch
It er mid most fashionably correct will,
down. Haste similarly, u piece of bias however, be the hip line a loose, low-
material around the wrists
of the lying waistline, or, In many cases, none
sleeves nml stitch down. Place sleeve nt all. Tailored suits, however, have
In arm hole,
according
to
notches the normal or slightly lifted wulstllne.
with the Inside seam so placed ns to
There will be much fullness over and
follow down the arm mid In line with around the hips, a very narrow, ankle
width skirt, slashed, opened halfway
the thumb.
to tho knee or split at the back and
The newest gowns from Puris, those lifted a little at this position, and puffy
which exclusive dressmakers are hid frills with tie-back» to keep them lit
ing In tlMMiK- paper at the bottom of position.
Jackets are short. The separate short
huge wardrobe drawers for the delecta
tion of milady's Hpting coming out, are coat will appear In every sort of mil-
terlnl and for wear on every occasion.
mudo of challis.
'I'he sleeveless jacket Is another Im
This material tins come to the fori'
with a rush, mol the most exclusive minent <'«M4t style. It Is being worked
of the Pmlslmi designers are using Into every sort of gown, even tho cot
challis In pince of foulard, producing ton dresses, mid these Include crepes
gowns fusi-Inn 111 ig I y teiiullfiil from the of all sorts and kinds, embroidered ns
voiles mid
exquisite stuff with
Its dainty
de well as printed; challis,
mulls. All such gowns are sheer. There
signs.
The fashions demand the use of soft fore the Invariable tunic, with Its two
mid dinging materials while the de or three skirts, is seemingly made in
signs mid colorings, partaking as they one piece, with corselet waist or Jacket,
do of tho bizarre and Oriental, require low-glrdle<l and without sleeves. The
most careful handling If one would pro undel’bodlee Is of tulle or net or some
bishop
sleeves
duce nn artistic result. No the prophet sheer material, with
of fashion predicts The greatest vogue reaching to the wrist and confined In
for gowns of all sorts and descriptions quaint puffed effects, simulating tho
made of cottons of varying weights old Elizabethan sleeve of antiquity.
• •••■■<■ MM
IMIS*» .VWG
¿493 Dress at all time* should be suited to the occasion on which it ic
worn. Simple modes for morning and business wear are invariably riven
preference by women of taste and discrimination.
A model which meets
every practical requirement is illustrated to the extreme loft. It waa devel-
oped in tun pungee. brown satin being chosen for collar, insert and cuffs.
No lining is used
Adjustable shield and Ion* sleeves are acceptable varia
tions
The skirl is a four-piece model attached at the high waistline and
measures two yards around the lower edge In the medium slxe. Other suitable
mall rluls an- serge, cheviot, eponge, ratine, challis and Devonshire cloth. Cos
tume No. ¿493. sixes 32, 34. 36. 38, 40, 42, 44, 46 and 48 inches bust measure.
Sis. 36 required 4't yards 36-lnch material and % yard 27-inch contrasting
fabric. Price, IS cents.
492« -Long, unbroken lines and simplicity of construction adapt this
costume for wear by the woman who Is short or stout.
A very attractive
house dress Is illustrated, employing u new fabric, hetero cylk, a variety
of mercerized batistfc In a very firm quality
In this development a lav
ender and white striped design was used, with collar and cuffs of lavender
lawn
An adjustable shield of net, lace or luitiste gives a dressy touch and
provides high neck for those who prefer It.
Long sleeves with either deep
or narrow cuffs may be selected in plac • of the short ones illustrated.
The
attached five-gored skirt fits the figure snugly and measures in the medium
sixe 2% yards around the lower edge. Costume No. 4926, sixes 32, 34, 36. 38,
40. 42. 44 and 46 Inches bust measure.
Sixe 36 requires 4%i yards 44-inch
material and 1-2 yard 27-lnch contrasting fabric.
Price, 15 cents.
549.> The distinctive feature of this up-to-date, one-piece costume Is th*
smart skirt with upper part lapping over the under section to simulate a
tunic. An attractive variety of mercerized batiste In white with a violet floral
motif was the fabric chosen. A row of embroidered batiste insertion extend
ing down tho front and around Imth sections of the skirt constitutes an at
tractive trimming. The waist is made without lining.
Either high or flat
collar and long or short sleeves may be chosen. Tho attached skirt consists
of three-piece upper and lower sections. It measures 2 yards at the lower
edge.
Costume No. 5495, sizes 32, 34. 36. 38, 40, 42, 44 and 46 Inches bust
measure. Sixe 36 requires 4?* yards 36-inch material and 6 yards Insertion.
Price, 15 cents.
AdJrcss THE CALIFORNIA FARMER, 24 ”,V. Santa Clara St., San Joso, Cal
No
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