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About Medford mail tribune. (Medford, Or.) 1909-1989 | View Entire Issue (Jan. 20, 1963)
SUNDAY. JANUARY 20, 1963 MEDFOHD MAIL TRIBUi.;, luLUiOHD. OhEGON Spring Comes in Fashion Shows The air wag cold but the fun shone In San Francisco last week end and it was easy to think that winter would not last much longer. It was particularly easy to believe in Spring - with a capital S, in the Rose room ' of the Sheraton-Palace hotel where the San Francisco Fash' , ion Industries staged a style show for buyers in the city for the 1063 Spring Market week. For more than an hour mod' els paraded the runway wear ing the pretty, gay light-hearted clothes which California designers and manufacturers ' produced with the hope of pleasing women of their state, and of the other Western states. Women love to buy new clothing, but it is some how more fun in the spring, when winter's cold can be put behind and clothes help to ae cent the promise of warm days spent outdoors. Silly as it may seem, which way the hemline and the waistline are big news each spring and fall. In San Fran- cisco the hemlines were most ly just below the knee, but fashion winds are beginning to blow in the direction of longer skirts. This trend shows up in long, slim evening gowns - long-stemmed as a flower, and in similar patio dresses that are down to the ankle and slit up the sides for wearing comfort. One of these was an Alice of Cali fornia design, and the white beach shift was imprinted up the front with an enormous golden rose with the flower just under the model's chin. Gold Featured . Shades' of gold and yellow are being featured by the Call fornians this year. The theme of the show was "The Golden Year of Fashion" and it was stressed that the Golden State has just become the most pop ulace in the nation. ' Green just naturally goes with yellow and gold - and Lady R by Rough Rider fea tured willow green, a cool, pretty shade, for wash and wear dresses, Capri pants and shirts. Pink showed up often - various shades but with em phasis on hot colors which sometimes, strangely enough, are called "pastels." ( These pastels are used by' Lllll Ann for spring top coats, and the big fluffy fur collars are dyed to match the wool - honey beige, pinks, blues and even orange tones are coordinated. Some spring coats hang free and others have wide, wide half belts, or suggestions of belts. In back, these either are swung low or else are placed almost under the shoul der blades. - - Many firms are using a great deal of white, not only for boating and tennis clothes but for. street clothes and coats. Lovely white coats are accented at the shoulder with enormous pins filled with tm - y s--V ; ' si New York Designer Oleg Cassini created spellbinding detail in this ensemble for Spring 1963. The cowl neck line, hemline and cuffs feature wide bands of stitching on camel-toned wool flannel over- blouse dress. The semi-fitted lop goes over a slender match ing skirt. (UPI) brightly colored fake jewels. Large sizes go for polka dots too - some are as large as saucers - and for the huge, splashy flowers in some prints. Pineapple was a new color used with green for pretty prints. Denim Used Billed as "low, neutral and high," Fleischman featured three matching shifts in striped cotton denim - one barely cleared the floor, the second, was mid-calf length and the third was to the knees, a "pool shift." These are completely bare of any adornment or trimming. Shifts, by the way, are now known also as skimmers." If the shift Is making a comeback, so is the A-shape dress. Some are contrived with Inverted pleats begin ning high on the shoulder and widening toward the bottom. Women who look well in tunic dresses and suits will rejoice, for there were- many to be seen in the revue and In the shop windows in San Frartcisco. They are In a va riety of lengths. Overblouses and topovers - the latter a word used by Koret of Cali fornia, are seen often and the skirts beneath are apt to be pleated, giving a middy suit or little girl look. Some frocks for the very young are still very full, models often wore petti-pants under their full skirts. Slip Patented Interesting news -for many will be the fact that the firm of Olga has Introduced, and patented, a panti-slip. It is almost unknown for an article of clothing or a design to be patented, but since this article of clothing is so unusual, a patent has been secured and the firm is prepared to sue copyists, we learned. Another idea may never .be patented but it brought applause from an audience Inclined to be blase. One long "important oc casion" dress was quickly con verted to a shorter length when the model unzipped the bottom flounce and hung it about her shoulders. To go back to colors-strange combinations for prints add variety to the clothing scene, and some designers have sparked ensembles of con servative cut by using bright red or green linings for bo leros or jackets. Classic navy blue and white, and black and white in bold zebra stripings, were shown. Many black and white suits and dresses were to be seen - checks, small plaids and strange stripings. In San Francisco shop win dows we saw spring shoes, many of them pumps in the new very shiny patent leather in interesting shades. One was an iridescent peacock green. Spike heels and. pointed toes seem to be still secure In the fashion scene in spite of ru mors that flatter heels and rounded or squared toes are being worn by "best dressed" women and models for the couture hduses in Europe and New York City. Often fashion shows end with formal and wedding clothes, and the industry show did so. One weddlne dress, long and informal, was of cotton needlepoint with a sash flowing down the back. It was matched with yellow bridesmaids gowns, also long and narrow and worn with tiny boleros. These were from the collection of Emma Domb, who also showed a wedding gown of re-embroldered lace and seta peau made with deep tiers at me bottom of the columnar skirt. The brides maids gowns of organza were pink, end also made with tiered skirts. ' This was a California show, but Oregon came in for its share of, glory. A group of models wearing Levi Strauss clothing opened the show sing ing a song about "white Levis, tennis shoes and big plaid Pendleton shirts." - O.S. Clothing Industry Proves Both Competitive and Exciting; Annual Market Weeks Bring Buyers and Sellers Together By OLIVE STARCHER Mail Tribune Women's Editor "The clothing business in this country is all mixed up. One of the salesmen showing his employer's line during the annual Spring Market week in San Fran Cisco, which closed Wednes day night, was speaking. He might also have said that the clothing industry, one of the most important and largest in the nation, is also one of the most competitive, that it is exciting, and that people either really enjoy the conv petition and excitement or else it drives them crazy and they drop it and start earn ing a living some other way. The 1963 Spring Market week was one of the largest ever held in San Francisco. About 1500 lines of women's clothing - suits, coats, day time dresses, some formal wear, sports clothing of all sorts, swim and boating clothes - all were shown. In addition the buyers looked over such accessories as belts, hats, jewelry and scarves. Almost 400 buyers from KN IT'S Roma - Foniana Sisters of Roma have dipped into the Charleston era for this num ber in their collection for Spring-Summer 1963. Tunic- shaped dress in white, with black design, and features a loose belt slanting across the hips. The picture was taken on the Spanish Steps here. (UPI photo) Annual UN Contest Opens For High School Students - "Hip: (- ft ' ' M m K . . ;..'; . v .afaV-V ' I Mr. and Mrs. Richard Webster Recent Reception Given For Newly Married Pair Central Point-Mr. and Mrs. Richard Websler, whose mar riage was a recent event, were honored at a reception Janu ary 13 in the home of the bride's parents, the Rev. and Mrs. Lewis Collins, 141 North Fifth street. Central Point. The bride is the former Miss Joyce Edna Collins. The bridegroom is a son of Mrs. Helen Webster, Port land, and the late Richard Websler. The couple was en route home from their wedding trip to southern California and San Francisco. They will live at 15735 Southwest Farming ton road, Beaverton. Mrs. John Champ of Lark lane was In charge of the re ception given by friends of the Community Bible church. The couple was presented gifts. For the event the briric wore her wedding dress. The wedding ceremony was held December 16 in the Portland Vernon United Pres byterian church. The Rev. J. Arthur Stevenson officiated. Wears Brocade The bride, given In marri age by her father, wore a Jacket dress of white brocade. She carried a white orchid on a white Bible. Mrs. Richard Hamilton, Oak drive, Mcdford, whs her only attendant. She was dressed In a pale blue brocade frock and carried a colonial bouquet of pink and white carnations. Both wore matching head dresses of velvet and net. Edward Grimm. Vancouver, Wash., was best man for his brother-in-law. The church was decorated with white chrysanthemums and silver sprays. The reception was held in the church fellowship hall. The bride's mother served the coffee and the bridegroom's mother cut the cake. For her daughter's wed ding and reception the bride's mother wore a grey knit suit. The bridegroom's mother was dressed in a blue crepe Jacket frock. Both had corsages of American beauty roses. The bride is a graduate nf Crater High school and at tended Southern Oregon col lege and the University of Washington. The bridegroom owns the meal department of Valley Farms In Vancouver, Wash, i l The thirty-seventh annual high school contest on the United Nations was an nounced here today by Mrs. Elolse Winklcbleck, chairman of the education program of the American Association for the United Nations. The contest is open to all high school students in the United Stales, which includes the ninth grade of Junior high schools. Last year, more than 75.000 students from 4000 schools participated. ..The con. test consists ol an examina tion which tesls the student's knowledge of the history and structure of the world body and his understanding of the Issues facing the UN. The examination is based on two booklets, "The UN -What It Is" and "The UN In a Developing World." The latter is a new publication by Vera Michclcs Dean, well known authority on interna tional affairs. Both booklets are available from the AAUN. Mrs. Winklcbleck has an nounced that the examination will be given throughout the United States on March 7, 10B3. The first prize for the national winner, the Dag llammarskjold award, is a trip to Europe, sponsored by American Youth Hostels, Inc., or $500 toward a college scholarship. Second national award is a hostcling trip in the United States, also spon sored by AYII, or $200 to ward a college scholarship. Twenty-five regional award winners will receive an AYH hostcling card which is hon ored at hostels throughout the world. A committee from the Mcd ford chapter of the AAUN will judge the local entries. Students of Jackson county high schools may register with school principals before February 1, 1063. Further in formation may be obtained from the Mcdford chapter of the AAUN, by contacting Mrs. Winklcbleck, 940 Whit man avenue, Mcdford, or by writ ing the American Association for the United Nations, Edu cation department, 345 East Forty-sixth street, New York 17, N.Y. Ashland Women Plan Meeting Ashland - Durii.g the Wed nesday afternoon meeting of Ladies of Elks members dis cussed arrangements for the February 13 meting when the Mcdford club will be en tertained. Luncheon was served in the dining room preceding the business session and after ward cards were played. Win ners were the Mesdamrs Ed Hadfield. Joe King, Howard Pierce, George Ward, Ralph Burgess and Mildred Klum stores throughout the west ern states, but largely from the three far-western states, spent a gruelling five days looking at these lines dis played in rooms on four floors plus of the Sheraton-Palace hotel and in several other hotels. Among the buyers were several from Medford and other southern Oregon towns who looked at as many lines as time, strength and en durance would permit. They bought thousands of gar ments which will soon be on the shelves and racks of lo cal shops and stores, and later will be added to the spring and summer wardrobes of wo men in this area. Quick Decisions Seated in the show room with order book on the table and pencil in hand, the buyer is shown, in quick succession, a certain line of garments. Decisions must be made quickly, but expertly and with a lot of "know how." The buyer must keep in mind the particular needs of the shop's patrons - these needs are affected by climate, eco nomic status, how the clients earn a living, their age, size, social activities and a dozen other factors. One buyer may represent a department store and have hundreds of customers and thus is thinking in more gen eral terms. Another owns a specialty shop - perhaps she sells, mostly to teenagers, or caters to the needs of pros pective brides, their mothers and attendants. Another is buying for a store in the cat tle country - her customers want sturdy, western - type clothing. Still another oper ates a store on the seashore where the climate is damp and windy - Medford buyers keep reminding the salesman that heavy cottons are too warm for this area, that some times spring doesn't last very long and that even in late March and April women need light clothing for warm ish days. Buy For Area Southern Oregon is a rec reation area - the people who live here swim, play golf and tennis, own boats,- fish, hunt and go roaming around the hills. All this takes just the right kind of apparel. Med ford buyers for womens ready-to-wear shops keep the needs of the women living at Rogue Valley Manor espe cially In mind; they worry about finding suitable, but appealing clothing, for the customer who is young, but is already a size 18, and at the other end of the picture, for the older woman, who is so small that she has trouble in finding suitable clothing. Often if a dress or suit is a good fit, it is "too young" looking for the customer who is 50 or 60 and has gray hair. Then there is the eternal problem of the business girl or woman. Her clothing must "go with the Job" and In addi tion many business women have limited clothing bud gets, want dresses, suits and ensembles which look well on them but do not show soil easily and which are not a great care to keep up. The business woman may need a costume which permits case of movement and which will endure hard wear. Buyers must quickly think about such matters as how easily can a garment be al tered, will the material wash, and if so, by hand or in the machine; are the seams and hems ample and will the belt buckles be durable or will the frames stain or rust the material? Seek Fresh Ideas The fashion and clothing In dustry, from top to bottom, is on the watch constantly for new and fresh Ideas in do- sign, fabrics, color or accent. If someone produces such an idea, will it catch on. or will it "lay an egg." The classics and basics may be the back bone of the Industry, but nevertheless, new ideas in cioining arc considered as good for the morale of the customer and client as they are to keep the extra coins rolling into the cash register. Black, brown, gray, navy blue and beige are the stand by colors but stemming from the basic are hundreds of shades and tones. Color is important - color can have i Top of the fashion heap by Howard Wolf and the straight fashion story for Spring 1963 edition is this colorful tweed made with flared skirt and body skimming tunic over blouse. In the color scheme of things, it's available in taupe, yellow, blue and green, in sises three to 15. a strong emotional impact on the wearer, or on those around the wearer. Sometimes the fabric man ufacturers and the clothing industry "promote" a color, only to find that women dis like it and refuse to buy any thing made of it. The gar ments end up on the sale ta ble, with little or no profit for the merchant; everyone is dissatisfied. If the new shade or tone - such as the so called shocking or hot pinks and the shimmering, strong yellows, are popular, then that color may sell a gar ment which otherwise might hang on the rack throughout the season and find no pur chaser. In only a few visits to the show room an observer learns that there are many "wheels within wheels" in the wom ens clothing industry. A salesman for one line may subtly ease out a buyer and make an excuse not to show the line - he may be saving time for another buyer who will put in a bigger order. A shop owner may be carrying a line which is not as good as it once was and be mak ing an effort to change to another. In small cities there are important "excluslves" -Mrs. Jones doesn't want to buy a chic suit and find an other just like it at a party the next week. Salesmen's Group The San Francisco show is sponsored by the West Coast Salesmen's association, head quartered in the Sheraton Palacc hotel where the "mar ket weeks" are held. As the name indicates, the associa tion is composed of West Coast salesmen of the cloth ing industry and they arrange for market weeks at the Sheraton-Palace. Obviously, the assembling of many samples of many lines in one city, and the gathering of the buyers at one time, is an efficient system. Salesmen still call at shops and stores, but a large share of the business is car ried on by way of the market weeks. These are held in various large cities throughout the na tion - shop owners or their department heads and repre sentatives attend whichever of these are most convenient and whichever ones supply their needs to the largest de gree. In addition to San Fran cisco, market weeks are hold in Los Angeles, Portland and Seattle. Those wishing to join the Salesmen's association must undergo a waiting period, we learned at the headquarters office. It was pointed out that this is due largely to the fact that the group is out growing the facilities of the big hotel, but that it is also useful to have the applicants undergo a waiting period dur ing which they acquire "points" by continuing to show independently. Commission Work The salesmen - or women, in charge of the various show rooms for the most part are employees of the manufac turers and work on a com mission. Some are selling for firms which they own or for which they work in other ca pacities. Some salesmen and clients greet one another as old friends. Among others the encounter is business, and no more. In a few instances, one senses wariness, or a touch of hostility, Buyers dealing with salespeople they trust ask their advice about styles, fabrics, trimming, and accept the answers they are given. For this Spring Market week the Salesmen's associa tion provided luncheon with out charge in one of the ho tel's large dining rooms. Around the tables buyers ex changed information, made suggestions to one another and asked questions. Sometimes the questions seemed unanswerable. Why, for instance, asked a number of women, had they been read ing that suit jackets would be longer only to go to mar ket and find an array of jac kets just as short as in the past few seasons? There have been rumors, too, that skirts are going down, but most of the gar ments being shown were about knee-length. However, longer skirts were evident in evening and "at home" cloth ing at the fashion show Sun day morning produced by the San Francisco Fashion Indus tries. When questioned about the "lag" between fashions which are good on the East coast and which are advertised na tionally, yet not available on the West coast, a number of answers were forthcoming. New styles, fabrics, and ideas originate with designers and manufacturers and usually ap pear first in the expensive, exclusive, high fashion houses. From this top they Students To Speak Three exchange students from Medford High school will give the program for Travel Study club, of the Ore gon Federation of Women's club, Tuesday, January 22 at 1 p. m. in the Fireplace room at the Girl's Community club. Speaking will be Nikkl Nik Yahya from Katu Bharu, Kclanan, Malaya; Jens Has- feldt, from Lyngley, Denmark and Garner Haupert of Med ford. This is the fifth annual guest day for the club. Mrs. Carl W. Peterson, president, will conduct a short business session. Hostesses for the day will be members of the executive board. 4 Honored Hornbrook The birthday of Mrs. Lawrence Breceda I was observed on Monday when the Sewing Club held its first meeting of the new year. Hostess was Mrs. Dwain Hamncr. Other guests were Mrs. John Griffin of Phoenix, Ore., Mrs. Edward Smith and Mrs. Harry Chapman. filter down to the less ex pensive houses and lines, and this takes time. Some said that as much as a year might have elapsed since the cloth ing being shown in San Fran cisco had been in the idea stage. Sometimes industry leaders in this country refuse to use new ideas which originate in Rome, Paris or London be cause they believe American women will not accept them. Sometimes the industry is right - sometimes wrong. Wrong decisions can mean great losses. Sometimes there doesn't seem to be any answer to the questions. Like t he buyer said - this clothing business is all mixed up. But it is not so mixed up after all. It continues to sup ply women of the United States, and in other parts of the world, clothes which are well - made, in good taste, in price ranges for every poc ketbook and which enhance the wearer, if she herself knows how to buy. Time was that little of this clothing was produced on the West coast. Now it is de signed, manufactured and sold on the West coast for Western women and girls whose needs and way of life are somewhat different from those in other parts of the country. There is every rea son to believe that the cloth ing industry of the Western slates is well established and will continue to flourish. Jy f . if? N If 1 lona Council Initiation Conducted Yreka-Five candidates wer initiated by lona council, De gree of Pocahontas, during recent ceremonies in tha Yreka IOOF hall. Mrs. Estella Scverns, Pocahontas, presided and a team from Wea tonka council, Medford, conferred the degrees. The new members are Mrs. Ruth Hughes, Mrs. Zelmer Bolinger, Mrs. Zoa Mellow, Mrs. Lois Simmons and Mrs. Mary Bovee. Degree team captain was Jack Dooms and team pianist was Mrs. Orval Hayes, both ot Medford. Twenty-one mem bers from the Weatonka coun cil attended. Announcement wna marip nf a coming viist of Mrs. Kath erine Keating, past great Po cahontas of Ran Franpi cm Inn area's instructing zone dep uty, one win De in Yreka Thursday, March 14 during a regular meeting of the lona council , and will conduct a school of instruction. Councils exnectpH tn attend are from WppH MpHfnrH RpH. ding and Weaverville, Koiana wicker, Medford, reat Sagamore nf the Peepr- vation of California, Im proved Order of Redmen, spoke briefly and Mrs. Rich ard Sineler. drnntv orpat Pn. cahontas of Weatonka council was introduced. Mrs. Rita Renning, Weed, deputy great Pocahontas nf Tnnn attended with five members from Wabeno council, Weed. Mrs Marv f,a nrtnn narA chairman, was honored on tha occasion of her birthday and was escorted by Mrs. Carria Lemav. first scout. Rpfresh. ments were served at tables decorated in the Indian motif. Next regular meeting will ba Thursday. January 24 In tha IOOF hall at 8 p.m. 4 Baptist Circles To Meet Tuesday ' White Cross circles of First Baptist church will meet Tuesday, January 22. Ruth circle will meet with Mrs. Roy Howe in her home, 119 North Keeneway drive, at 10 a.m.; Elizabeth, with ' their leader Mrs. Mark Hamp ton, 961 Lozier lane; Esther, with the leader Mrs. Gilbert Hill, Foss road. Talent; Mar tha, with Mrs. Samuel Jones, 1393 South Peach street; and Rebecca, with Mrs. Marie Cole, 1520 Johnson street. . The last four circle meet ings will begin at 10:30 a.m. Those attending are to taka a sack lunch and coffee and dessert will be served by the hostesses. All women of tha church are invited to partici pate in these work meetings. Hannah circle will meet from 7 to 9 p.m. with Mrs. Al Purdy, 1850 South Peach street. Mrs. Jesse Flenner is leader. New York - Wander i n g waistline goes up, down and even disappears in smorgas bord of dress silhouettes be ing served up for Spring 1963 by designers here. High-waist-ed Empire look is reflected in this candy pink silk sheath by Seymour Jacobson. Accent on ruffles is apparent in puff sleeves and wide hem band ing of silk organsa. (UPI photo) Corsage Making Workshop Set Mcdford Garden club will conduct a corsage workshop Wednesday, January 23 from, 1 to 3 p.m., in the courthousa auditorium. All Interested wo men are invited. Materials used will in clude cones, small nuts, acorns and similar items. Those who attend should take scissors, wire cutters, ribbon and materials. For those who do not have ma terials, it will be provided for a small charge. Wanted Hairdresser Willing to Work for 658i Commission HAIR FASHIONS by Glenn Where A . . . Hairdren li from $3.00 Hair Shaping from 1.50 Cold Wave (complete) from 10.00 Phone 772-5251 125 W. Main St. We Are Completely Insured Against Fir or Thefll YOUR CLOTHING IS ALWAYS IN GOOD HANDS At ABB GRCSSETTS DRIVE-IN "".iANERS 2-HOUR Cleaning SAVE! SAVE! WITH Econ-O-Clean Prafeuionjl Dry Cltining With Real Economy I 2t Order lb. W $1.90 Clfnin ft Sporting Only 702 W. Main ABB GRESSETTS Drive-In Cleaners 702 W. Main I14 I. Jackson Gatawar Shoppine Center, Athland m PLAYING CARDS? For exciting Card partial ... or 9 if Is, here' HIGH FASHION FOR YOUR CARD TABLE You can choose from a large range of de signs and colors from our Big Selection of Congress, Duratone, Hallmark and Bicycle Playing Cards . . . and all the necessary accessories. Regular and pinochle decks, plastic coated Single and double packs Novelty round decks Cards with large numerals for those with impaired eyesight Card sets complete with score pads Card Holders Pencils Score Pads Poker Chips Crlbbage Boards Court whist score cards Bridge Instruction Books Bridge Table Covers in attractive colors and designs. Everything in party paperware, including tablecloths, plates, cups, napkins, tallies, coasters, place cards, etc., to make your party easy & fun WEST MAIN PHARMACY Rexall Store 13S W. Main at Grape Ph. 772-2330
