SUNDAY. JANUARY 20, 1963
MEDFOHD MAIL TRIBUi.;, luLUiOHD. OhEGON
Spring Comes in Fashion Shows
The air wag cold but the
fun shone In San Francisco
last week end and it was
easy to think that winter
would not last much longer.
It was particularly easy to
believe in Spring - with a
capital S, in the Rose room
' of the Sheraton-Palace hotel
where the San Francisco Fash'
, ion Industries staged a style
show for buyers in the city
for the 1063 Spring Market
week.
For more than an hour mod'
els paraded the runway wear
ing the pretty, gay light-hearted
clothes which California
designers and manufacturers
' produced with the hope of
pleasing women of their state,
and of the other Western
states. Women love to buy
new clothing, but it is some
how more fun in the spring,
when winter's cold can be put
behind and clothes help to ae
cent the promise of warm days
spent outdoors.
Silly as it may seem, which
way the hemline and the
waistline are big news each
spring and fall. In San Fran-
cisco the hemlines were most
ly just below the knee, but
fashion winds are beginning
to blow in the direction of
longer skirts. This trend shows
up in long, slim evening
gowns - long-stemmed as a
flower, and in similar patio
dresses that are down to the
ankle and slit up the sides
for wearing comfort. One of
these was an Alice of Cali
fornia design, and the white
beach shift was imprinted up
the front with an enormous
golden rose with the flower
just under the model's chin.
Gold Featured
. Shades' of gold and yellow
are being featured by the Call
fornians this year. The theme
of the show was "The Golden
Year of Fashion" and it was
stressed that the Golden State
has just become the most pop
ulace in the nation.
' Green just naturally goes
with yellow and gold - and
Lady R by Rough Rider fea
tured willow green, a cool,
pretty shade, for wash and
wear dresses, Capri pants and
shirts. Pink showed up often
- various shades but with em
phasis on hot colors which
sometimes, strangely enough,
are called "pastels." (
These pastels are used by'
Lllll Ann for spring top coats,
and the big fluffy fur collars
are dyed to match the wool -
honey beige, pinks, blues and
even orange tones are coordinated.
Some spring coats hang free
and others have wide, wide
half belts, or suggestions of
belts. In back, these either
are swung low or else are
placed almost under the shoul
der blades. - -
Many firms are using a
great deal of white, not only
for boating and tennis clothes
but for. street clothes and
coats. Lovely white coats are
accented at the shoulder with
enormous pins filled with
tm - y
s--V ; ' si
New York Designer Oleg
Cassini created spellbinding
detail in this ensemble for
Spring 1963. The cowl neck
line, hemline and cuffs feature
wide bands of stitching on
camel-toned wool flannel over-
blouse dress. The semi-fitted
lop goes over a slender match
ing skirt. (UPI)
brightly colored fake jewels.
Large sizes go for polka dots
too - some are as large as
saucers - and for the huge,
splashy flowers in some
prints. Pineapple was a new
color used with green for
pretty prints.
Denim Used
Billed as "low, neutral and
high," Fleischman featured
three matching shifts in
striped cotton denim - one
barely cleared the floor, the
second, was mid-calf length
and the third was to the
knees, a "pool shift." These
are completely bare of any
adornment or trimming.
Shifts, by the way, are now
known also as skimmers."
If the shift Is making a
comeback, so is the A-shape
dress. Some are contrived
with Inverted pleats begin
ning high on the shoulder and
widening toward the bottom.
Women who look well in
tunic dresses and suits will
rejoice, for there were- many
to be seen in the revue and
In the shop windows in San
Frartcisco. They are In a va
riety of lengths. Overblouses
and topovers - the latter a
word used by Koret of Cali
fornia, are seen often and
the skirts beneath are apt to
be pleated, giving a middy suit
or little girl look. Some frocks
for the very young are still
very full, models often wore
petti-pants under their full
skirts.
Slip Patented
Interesting news -for many
will be the fact that the firm
of Olga has Introduced, and
patented, a panti-slip. It is
almost unknown for an article
of clothing or a design to be
patented, but since this article
of clothing is so unusual, a
patent has been secured and
the firm is prepared to sue
copyists, we learned. Another
idea may never .be patented
but it brought applause from
an audience Inclined to be
blase. One long "important oc
casion" dress was quickly con
verted to a shorter length
when the model unzipped the
bottom flounce and hung it
about her shoulders.
To go back to colors-strange
combinations for prints add
variety to the clothing scene,
and some designers have
sparked ensembles of con
servative cut by using bright
red or green linings for bo
leros or jackets.
Classic navy blue and white,
and black and white in bold
zebra stripings, were shown.
Many black and white suits
and dresses were to be seen -
checks, small plaids and
strange stripings.
In San Francisco shop win
dows we saw spring shoes,
many of them pumps in the
new very shiny patent leather
in interesting shades. One was
an iridescent peacock green.
Spike heels and. pointed toes
seem to be still secure In the
fashion scene in spite of ru
mors that flatter heels and
rounded or squared toes are
being worn by "best dressed"
women and models for the
couture hduses in Europe and
New York City.
Often fashion shows end
with formal and wedding
clothes, and the industry
show did so. One weddlne
dress, long and informal, was
of cotton needlepoint with a
sash flowing down the back.
It was matched with yellow
bridesmaids gowns, also long
and narrow and worn with
tiny boleros. These were from
the collection of Emma Domb,
who also showed a wedding
gown of re-embroldered lace
and seta peau made with deep
tiers at me bottom of the
columnar skirt. The brides
maids gowns of organza were
pink, end also made with
tiered skirts. '
This was a California show,
but Oregon came in for its
share of, glory. A group of
models wearing Levi Strauss
clothing opened the show sing
ing a song about "white Levis,
tennis shoes and big plaid
Pendleton shirts." - O.S.
Clothing Industry Proves Both Competitive and Exciting;
Annual Market Weeks Bring Buyers and Sellers Together
By OLIVE STARCHER
Mail Tribune Women's Editor
"The clothing business in
this country is all mixed up.
One of the salesmen
showing his employer's line
during the annual Spring
Market week in San Fran
Cisco, which closed Wednes
day night, was speaking. He
might also have said that the
clothing industry, one of the
most important and largest
in the nation, is also one of
the most competitive, that it
is exciting, and that people
either really enjoy the conv
petition and excitement or
else it drives them crazy and
they drop it and start earn
ing a living some other way.
The 1963 Spring Market
week was one of the largest
ever held in San Francisco.
About 1500 lines of women's
clothing - suits, coats, day
time dresses, some formal
wear, sports clothing of all
sorts, swim and boating
clothes - all were shown.
In addition the buyers looked
over such accessories as belts,
hats, jewelry and scarves.
Almost 400 buyers from
KN IT'S
Roma - Foniana Sisters of
Roma have dipped into the
Charleston era for this num
ber in their collection for
Spring-Summer 1963. Tunic-
shaped dress in white, with
black design, and features a
loose belt slanting across the
hips. The picture was taken
on the Spanish Steps here.
(UPI photo)
Annual UN Contest Opens
For High School Students
- "Hip: (-
ft ' ' M m K . . ;..'; . v .afaV-V ' I
Mr. and Mrs. Richard Webster
Recent Reception Given
For Newly Married Pair
Central Point-Mr. and Mrs.
Richard Websler, whose mar
riage was a recent event, were
honored at a reception Janu
ary 13 in the home of the
bride's parents, the Rev. and
Mrs. Lewis Collins, 141 North
Fifth street. Central Point.
The bride is the former Miss
Joyce Edna Collins.
The bridegroom is a son
of Mrs. Helen Webster, Port
land, and the late Richard
Websler.
The couple was en route
home from their wedding trip
to southern California and
San Francisco. They will live
at 15735 Southwest Farming
ton road, Beaverton.
Mrs. John Champ of Lark
lane was In charge of the re
ception given by friends of
the Community Bible church.
The couple was presented
gifts. For the event the briric
wore her wedding dress.
The wedding ceremony was
held December 16 in the
Portland Vernon United Pres
byterian church. The Rev. J.
Arthur Stevenson officiated.
Wears Brocade
The bride, given In marri
age by her father, wore a
Jacket dress of white brocade.
She carried a white orchid on
a white Bible.
Mrs. Richard Hamilton, Oak
drive, Mcdford, whs her only
attendant. She was dressed In
a pale blue brocade frock and
carried a colonial bouquet of
pink and white carnations.
Both wore matching head
dresses of velvet and net.
Edward Grimm. Vancouver,
Wash., was best man for his
brother-in-law.
The church was decorated
with white chrysanthemums
and silver sprays.
The reception was held in
the church fellowship hall.
The bride's mother served the
coffee and the bridegroom's
mother cut the cake.
For her daughter's wed
ding and reception the bride's
mother wore a grey knit suit.
The bridegroom's mother was
dressed in a blue crepe Jacket
frock. Both had corsages of
American beauty roses.
The bride is a graduate nf
Crater High school and at
tended Southern Oregon col
lege and the University of
Washington.
The bridegroom owns the
meal department of Valley
Farms In Vancouver, Wash, i
l
The thirty-seventh annual
high school contest on the
United Nations was an
nounced here today by Mrs.
Elolse Winklcbleck, chairman
of the education program of
the American Association for
the United Nations.
The contest is open to all
high school students in the
United Stales, which includes
the ninth grade of Junior high
schools. Last year, more than
75.000 students from 4000
schools participated. ..The con.
test consists ol an examina
tion which tesls the student's
knowledge of the history and
structure of the world body
and his understanding of the
Issues facing the UN.
The examination is based
on two booklets, "The UN -What
It Is" and "The UN In
a Developing World." The
latter is a new publication by
Vera Michclcs Dean, well
known authority on interna
tional affairs. Both booklets
are available from the AAUN.
Mrs. Winklcbleck has an
nounced that the examination
will be given throughout the
United States on March 7,
10B3. The first prize for the
national winner, the Dag
llammarskjold award, is a
trip to Europe, sponsored by
American Youth Hostels, Inc.,
or $500 toward a college
scholarship. Second national
award is a hostcling trip in
the United States, also spon
sored by AYII, or $200 to
ward a college scholarship.
Twenty-five regional award
winners will receive an AYH
hostcling card which is hon
ored at hostels throughout
the world.
A committee from the Mcd
ford chapter of the AAUN
will judge the local entries.
Students of Jackson county
high schools may register
with school principals before
February 1, 1063. Further in
formation may be obtained
from the Mcdford chapter of
the AAUN, by contacting Mrs.
Winklcbleck, 940 Whit man
avenue, Mcdford, or by writ
ing the American Association
for the United Nations, Edu
cation department, 345 East
Forty-sixth street, New York
17, N.Y.
Ashland Women
Plan Meeting
Ashland - Durii.g the Wed
nesday afternoon meeting of
Ladies of Elks members dis
cussed arrangements for the
February 13 meting when
the Mcdford club will be en
tertained. Luncheon was served in
the dining room preceding the
business session and after
ward cards were played. Win
ners were the Mesdamrs Ed
Hadfield. Joe King, Howard
Pierce, George Ward, Ralph
Burgess and Mildred Klum
stores throughout the west
ern states, but largely from
the three far-western states,
spent a gruelling five days
looking at these lines dis
played in rooms on four floors
plus of the Sheraton-Palace
hotel and in several other
hotels. Among the buyers
were several from Medford
and other southern Oregon
towns who looked at as many
lines as time, strength and en
durance would permit. They
bought thousands of gar
ments which will soon be on
the shelves and racks of lo
cal shops and stores, and later
will be added to the spring
and summer wardrobes of wo
men in this area.
Quick Decisions
Seated in the show room
with order book on the table
and pencil in hand, the buyer
is shown, in quick succession,
a certain line of garments.
Decisions must be made
quickly, but expertly and
with a lot of "know how."
The buyer must keep in mind
the particular needs of the
shop's patrons - these needs
are affected by climate, eco
nomic status, how the clients
earn a living, their age, size,
social activities and a dozen
other factors.
One buyer may represent
a department store and have
hundreds of customers and
thus is thinking in more gen
eral terms. Another owns a
specialty shop - perhaps she
sells, mostly to teenagers, or
caters to the needs of pros
pective brides, their mothers
and attendants. Another is
buying for a store in the cat
tle country - her customers
want sturdy, western - type
clothing. Still another oper
ates a store on the seashore
where the climate is damp
and windy - Medford buyers
keep reminding the salesman
that heavy cottons are too
warm for this area, that some
times spring doesn't last very
long and that even in late
March and April women
need light clothing for warm
ish days.
Buy For Area
Southern Oregon is a rec
reation area - the people who
live here swim, play golf and
tennis, own boats,- fish, hunt
and go roaming around the
hills. All this takes just the
right kind of apparel. Med
ford buyers for womens
ready-to-wear shops keep the
needs of the women living at
Rogue Valley Manor espe
cially In mind; they worry
about finding suitable, but
appealing clothing, for the
customer who is young, but
is already a size 18, and at
the other end of the picture,
for the older woman, who is
so small that she has trouble
in finding suitable clothing.
Often if a dress or suit is a
good fit, it is "too young"
looking for the customer who
is 50 or 60 and has gray hair.
Then there is the eternal
problem of the business girl
or woman. Her clothing must
"go with the Job" and In addi
tion many business women
have limited clothing bud
gets, want dresses, suits and
ensembles which look well
on them but do not show soil
easily and which are not a
great care to keep up. The
business woman may need a
costume which permits case
of movement and which will
endure hard wear.
Buyers must quickly think
about such matters as how
easily can a garment be al
tered, will the material wash,
and if so, by hand or in the
machine; are the seams and
hems ample and will the belt
buckles be durable or will
the frames stain or rust the
material?
Seek Fresh Ideas
The fashion and clothing In
dustry, from top to bottom, is
on the watch constantly for
new and fresh Ideas in do-
sign, fabrics, color or accent.
If someone produces such an
idea, will it catch on. or will
it "lay an egg." The classics
and basics may be the back
bone of the Industry, but
nevertheless, new ideas in
cioining arc considered as
good for the morale of the
customer and client as they
are to keep the extra coins
rolling into the cash register.
Black, brown, gray, navy
blue and beige are the stand
by colors but stemming from
the basic are hundreds of
shades and tones. Color is
important - color can have
i
Top of the fashion heap by
Howard Wolf and the straight
fashion story for Spring 1963
edition is this colorful tweed
made with flared skirt and
body skimming tunic over
blouse. In the color scheme of
things, it's available in taupe,
yellow, blue and green, in
sises three to 15.
a strong emotional impact on
the wearer, or on those
around the wearer.
Sometimes the fabric man
ufacturers and the clothing
industry "promote" a color,
only to find that women dis
like it and refuse to buy any
thing made of it. The gar
ments end up on the sale ta
ble, with little or no profit
for the merchant; everyone
is dissatisfied. If the new
shade or tone - such as the so
called shocking or hot pinks
and the shimmering, strong
yellows, are popular, then
that color may sell a gar
ment which otherwise might
hang on the rack throughout
the season and find no pur
chaser. In only a few visits to the
show room an observer learns
that there are many "wheels
within wheels" in the wom
ens clothing industry. A
salesman for one line may
subtly ease out a buyer and
make an excuse not to show
the line - he may be saving
time for another buyer who
will put in a bigger order. A
shop owner may be carrying
a line which is not as good
as it once was and be mak
ing an effort to change to
another. In small cities there
are important "excluslves" -Mrs.
Jones doesn't want to
buy a chic suit and find an
other just like it at a party
the next week.
Salesmen's Group
The San Francisco show is
sponsored by the West Coast
Salesmen's association, head
quartered in the Sheraton
Palacc hotel where the "mar
ket weeks" are held. As the
name indicates, the associa
tion is composed of West
Coast salesmen of the cloth
ing industry and they arrange
for market weeks at the Sheraton-Palace.
Obviously, the
assembling of many samples
of many lines in one city, and
the gathering of the buyers
at one time, is an efficient
system. Salesmen still call at
shops and stores, but a large
share of the business is car
ried on by way of the market
weeks.
These are held in various
large cities throughout the na
tion - shop owners or their
department heads and repre
sentatives attend whichever
of these are most convenient
and whichever ones supply
their needs to the largest de
gree. In addition to San Fran
cisco, market weeks are hold
in Los Angeles, Portland and
Seattle.
Those wishing to join the
Salesmen's association must
undergo a waiting period, we
learned at the headquarters
office. It was pointed out
that this is due largely to
the fact that the group is out
growing the facilities of the
big hotel, but that it is also
useful to have the applicants
undergo a waiting period dur
ing which they acquire
"points" by continuing to
show independently.
Commission Work
The salesmen - or women,
in charge of the various show
rooms for the most part are
employees of the manufac
turers and work on a com
mission. Some are selling for
firms which they own or for
which they work in other ca
pacities. Some salesmen and
clients greet one another as
old friends. Among others
the encounter is business, and
no more. In a few instances,
one senses wariness, or a
touch of hostility, Buyers
dealing with salespeople they
trust ask their advice about
styles, fabrics, trimming, and
accept the answers they are
given.
For this Spring Market
week the Salesmen's associa
tion provided luncheon with
out charge in one of the ho
tel's large dining rooms.
Around the tables buyers ex
changed information, made
suggestions to one another
and asked questions.
Sometimes the questions
seemed unanswerable. Why,
for instance, asked a number
of women, had they been read
ing that suit jackets would
be longer only to go to mar
ket and find an array of jac
kets just as short as in the
past few seasons?
There have been rumors,
too, that skirts are going
down, but most of the gar
ments being shown were
about knee-length. However,
longer skirts were evident in
evening and "at home" cloth
ing at the fashion show Sun
day morning produced by the
San Francisco Fashion Indus
tries. When questioned about the
"lag" between fashions which
are good on the East coast
and which are advertised na
tionally, yet not available on
the West coast, a number of
answers were forthcoming.
New styles, fabrics, and ideas
originate with designers and
manufacturers and usually ap
pear first in the expensive,
exclusive, high fashion
houses. From this top they
Students
To Speak
Three exchange students
from Medford High school
will give the program for
Travel Study club, of the Ore
gon Federation of Women's
club, Tuesday, January 22 at 1
p. m. in the Fireplace room at
the Girl's Community club.
Speaking will be Nikkl Nik
Yahya from Katu Bharu,
Kclanan, Malaya; Jens Has-
feldt, from Lyngley, Denmark
and Garner Haupert of Med
ford. This is the fifth annual
guest day for the club.
Mrs. Carl W. Peterson,
president, will conduct a
short business session.
Hostesses for the day will
be members of the executive
board.
4
Honored
Hornbrook The birthday
of Mrs. Lawrence Breceda I
was observed on Monday
when the Sewing Club held
its first meeting of the new
year. Hostess was Mrs. Dwain
Hamncr. Other guests were
Mrs. John Griffin of Phoenix,
Ore., Mrs. Edward Smith and
Mrs. Harry Chapman.
filter down to the less ex
pensive houses and lines, and
this takes time. Some said
that as much as a year might
have elapsed since the cloth
ing being shown in San Fran
cisco had been in the idea
stage.
Sometimes industry leaders
in this country refuse to use
new ideas which originate in
Rome, Paris or London be
cause they believe American
women will not accept them.
Sometimes the industry is
right - sometimes wrong.
Wrong decisions can mean
great losses.
Sometimes there doesn't
seem to be any answer to the
questions. Like t he buyer
said - this clothing business
is all mixed up.
But it is not so mixed up
after all. It continues to sup
ply women of the United
States, and in other parts of
the world, clothes which are
well - made, in good taste,
in price ranges for every poc
ketbook and which enhance
the wearer, if she herself
knows how to buy.
Time was that little of this
clothing was produced on the
West coast. Now it is de
signed, manufactured and
sold on the West coast for
Western women and girls
whose needs and way of life
are somewhat different from
those in other parts of the
country. There is every rea
son to believe that the cloth
ing industry of the Western
slates is well established and
will continue to flourish.
Jy f . if? N
If 1
lona Council
Initiation
Conducted
Yreka-Five candidates wer
initiated by lona council, De
gree of Pocahontas, during
recent ceremonies in tha
Yreka IOOF hall. Mrs. Estella
Scverns, Pocahontas, presided
and a team from Wea tonka
council, Medford, conferred
the degrees.
The new members are Mrs.
Ruth Hughes, Mrs. Zelmer
Bolinger, Mrs. Zoa Mellow,
Mrs. Lois Simmons and Mrs.
Mary Bovee.
Degree team captain was
Jack Dooms and team pianist
was Mrs. Orval Hayes, both ot
Medford. Twenty-one mem
bers from the Weatonka coun
cil attended.
Announcement wna marip nf
a coming viist of Mrs. Kath
erine Keating, past great Po
cahontas of Ran Franpi cm Inn
area's instructing zone dep
uty, one win De in Yreka
Thursday, March 14 during a
regular meeting of the lona
council , and will conduct a
school of instruction.
Councils exnectpH tn attend
are from WppH MpHfnrH RpH.
ding and Weaverville,
Koiana wicker, Medford,
reat Sagamore nf the Peepr-
vation of California, Im
proved Order of Redmen,
spoke briefly and Mrs. Rich
ard Sineler. drnntv orpat Pn.
cahontas of Weatonka council
was introduced. Mrs. Rita
Renning, Weed, deputy great
Pocahontas nf Tnnn
attended with five members
from Wabeno council, Weed.
Mrs Marv f,a nrtnn narA
chairman, was honored on tha
occasion of her birthday and
was escorted by Mrs. Carria
Lemav. first scout. Rpfresh.
ments were served at tables
decorated in the Indian motif.
Next regular meeting will ba
Thursday. January 24 In tha
IOOF hall at 8 p.m.
4
Baptist Circles
To Meet Tuesday
' White Cross circles of First
Baptist church will meet
Tuesday, January 22.
Ruth circle will meet with
Mrs. Roy Howe in her home,
119 North Keeneway drive,
at 10 a.m.; Elizabeth, with '
their leader Mrs. Mark Hamp
ton, 961 Lozier lane; Esther,
with the leader Mrs. Gilbert
Hill, Foss road. Talent; Mar
tha, with Mrs. Samuel Jones,
1393 South Peach street; and
Rebecca, with Mrs. Marie
Cole, 1520 Johnson street. .
The last four circle meet
ings will begin at 10:30 a.m.
Those attending are to taka
a sack lunch and coffee and
dessert will be served by the
hostesses. All women of tha
church are invited to partici
pate in these work meetings.
Hannah circle will meet
from 7 to 9 p.m. with Mrs. Al
Purdy, 1850 South Peach
street. Mrs. Jesse Flenner is
leader.
New York - Wander i n g
waistline goes up, down and
even disappears in smorgas
bord of dress silhouettes be
ing served up for Spring 1963
by designers here. High-waist-ed
Empire look is reflected
in this candy pink silk sheath
by Seymour Jacobson. Accent
on ruffles is apparent in puff
sleeves and wide hem band
ing of silk organsa. (UPI
photo)
Corsage Making
Workshop Set
Mcdford Garden club will
conduct a corsage workshop
Wednesday, January 23 from,
1 to 3 p.m., in the courthousa
auditorium. All Interested wo
men are invited.
Materials used will in
clude cones, small nuts,
acorns and similar items.
Those who attend should
take scissors, wire cutters,
ribbon and materials. For
those who do not have ma
terials, it will be provided
for a small charge.
Wanted Hairdresser
Willing to Work for
658i Commission
HAIR FASHIONS
by Glenn
Where A . . .
Hairdren li from $3.00
Hair Shaping from 1.50
Cold Wave (complete) from 10.00
Phone 772-5251
125 W. Main St.
We Are Completely Insured Against Fir or Thefll
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signs and colors from our Big Selection of
Congress, Duratone, Hallmark and Bicycle
Playing Cards . . . and all the necessary
accessories.
Regular and pinochle decks, plastic coated
Single and double packs
Novelty round decks
Cards with large numerals
for those with impaired eyesight
Card sets complete with score pads
Card Holders Pencils Score Pads
Poker Chips Crlbbage Boards
Court whist score cards
Bridge Instruction Books
Bridge Table Covers in attractive
colors and designs.
Everything in party paperware,
including tablecloths, plates, cups,
napkins, tallies, coasters, place cards,
etc., to make your party easy & fun
WEST MAIN PHARMACY
Rexall Store
13S W. Main at Grape
Ph. 772-2330