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About Medford mail tribune. (Medford, Or.) 1909-1989 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 18, 1958)
1 MAIL TRIBUNE, MtdW, Oregon, Monday, August 18, 1958 Ranch Offers Touch of Wild West Joaquin Miller Spread Near John Day Named for Famed Gold Rush Era Poet The foMowtmi Is I cnedenutloe of a onotoriof aopeerine m me Sunday Ore onlaa, oao of n ennual series spon sored jointly by Tho Ornonian and IM 4regoa Stata Motor Ann. Turn traval articlM describe vacation trips and des tination throughout me Normwcst and ' are rcomrMndd for evt-of-stata viss : tors comine to Oraooa durine roe Cest . teoniel Year observance. Ey LEVERETT RICHARDS Staff Writer, Tha Oregonian The old Wfld West of song and story. Thats what the dudes from the effete East want to see when they come West to share Old Man Ore gon's 100th birthday cake next year. They can find it (among oth er places) 100 feet off the main highway at the Joaquin Miller Guest ranch, 10 miles south of John Day on Highway 395, just 10 miles off Highway 26, one of America s main streets. : We set out on an Oregonian Oregon State Motor Assn. motorlog in search of the Wild West to complete the educa tion of Jaap Wertheun, the Dutch student who spent the year with us under the Amer ican Field Service program. Cowbodys are scarce in the Tietherlands. So are moun tains. "We have just one. It is 300 feet high and all sand," Jaap used to say. Pin Trees Scarce ' Pine trees are scarce, too, and the deer are not for hunt ing. Joaquin Miller dude ranch, named for the rootin', tootin' nnof rf ornM mich riavs looked lTJV. to W.U . w.. J like a frontier ranch should a cluster of red buildings with false fronts that looked like the Red Dog saloon and the Dead Eye Dance Hall, the country store and the blacksmith shop of a typical cowtown, all nes- I Mac JOAQUIN Mil I PR rtocJ f ticcr BaUTll ijoequln Miller Guest Ranch jis on Highway 395, 10 miles south of John Day. Map shows i variety of routes to ranch. tied in a mountain meadow un der redolent pines at the foot of Canyon Mountain. Sure enough there is a sa loon, now converted to tamer use; a blacksmith shop, and a real western dance hall. There is also a cook house where steaks, mashed potatoes, pie and cake are served family style in quantities. There is also a comfortable swimming pool, 24 by 70 feet, fed by natural hot springs and open from dawn to near mid night James E. (Jim) Sharp used to run the ranch as a pub lic resort until he and Volney McHaley teamed up last year to establish it as a guest ranch and hunting headquar ters, season June 1 to Oct 30. They have cabins for 18 guests on the banks of Canyon Creek under the murmuring pines, and apartments for a half dozen more in the main lodge building, which includes dance hall and lounge. They also have horses, dozens of them. And thereby hangs a tale. Horse Said Famous Jaap, our Dutch student, had never seen a real, live saddle bronc close up, much less straddled one. "Your horse is famous," the ranch hands had assured him, solemnly. "Widow-Maker, they call him, because he's killed so many riders." "When I saw "that horse, now, I was believing it, too," Jaap later confessed. "He was so much bigger and stronger than I." But - Jim , and Deke and Frank McHaley, Deke's dad, who introduced bareback buck ing to the Pendleton Round-Up and a dozen dudes were wait ing with wide grins. So the Dutch boy got up. He and "Widow-Maker" whose call ing name was really Tracy- were close friends in a few minutes, except when Tracy trotted. Jaap didn't trot when Tracy did. . "Tracy is always coming up when I am coming down. What's the matter with him? Jaap complained. Nevertheless, the wnoie lam- fly rode ten miles that day, winding through the parklike woods, up steep hills and into the open reaches of the high country, where Deke and Jim rode off through the chaparral to scare up a dozen deer. This is the heart of the deer country. Dudes have seen as many as 150 in a day. In hunt ing season the open woods are ablaze with gunfire. But Sharp and McHaley take their parties in to a 6,000 - acre private ranch near Izee where a hunter has only to sit and shoot The ranch adjoins the Canyon Creek archery reserve where only bows and arrows may be used. Here Jim and Deke drive the deer slowly past the firing line for the hunters. Elk hunt ing is more rugged, but good. More than 9,000 deer and more than 1,000 elk were killed in Grant County in 1956. Good Fishing Available Fishing, too, is good on Canyon Creek, and irresistible on more inaccessible tributar ies. The refrigerator was full of tender ten-inch Rainbow trout when we were there. We couldn't get our gang out of the old swimming pool ex cept for riding, eating and square dancing, however. The Mt Vernon square dancers showed up in. force and lured some of the dudes from the ranch into joining their squares. There's something about the sweet scent of pine at high noon on a hot day that makes a man want to sleep by the; murmuring creek. But our hosts had to show us some more of the Old West a calf branding bee on the Niles Sproul ranch in nearby Bear Valley. There a half dozen neighbor families converged around thei big log corral on a sunny Sun-i day morning to help with the! branding. Calves Headed, Heeled No fancy mechanical squeeze boxes here. These cowmen; "head and heel" their calves.: One passes a loop around the; rugged range calf, then leadsj the balky critter into the centerj of the corral where another mounted cowhand passes his; loop over one or both of the: calf's hind legs. The well-trained horses then! stretch the bawling calf out) while he is branded, vaccinat-l ed, emasculated, his ears1 notched and his horn buds' cauterized. This was almost too' much for our Dutchman on hisi first dude ranch, until he saw the calves frisk away unhurt by their ordeal. We were only sorry we could not stay for the potluck dinner which concludes these tradi tional branding bees. But we each had a date with a horse. We didn't want to waste a iinute of the magic of Joaquin Miller ranch. At Niles Sproul's urging, Jaap Wertheim tries his hand with branding iron, holding it like a professional. Ranch is oae of last using old "head and heel" handling of calves. French Statesmen Say West's Greatest Danger is Red China By KINGSBURY SMITH United Press International Paris (UPD Two of France's most eminent statesmen warned today that the West's greatest danger from the Communist World in the fu ture is likely to come from Red China. Former Premiers Paul Ray naud and Georges Bidault, in exclusive interviews with this correspondent, said, the Chi nese Communist leaders ap pear much more willing to risk war with the West than Russia. Reynaud, who recently re turned from a meeting with Soviet Premier Nikita Khru shchev in Moscow, went so far as to predict that Commu nist China will one day precip itate war with the Western powers. "I am convinced that Com munist China envisages the possibility of an atomic war with the West sooner or later," Reynaud said. "Russia, under Khru shchev's leadership, will not deliberately precipitate war with the West, but if Commu nist China continues to grow strong and gets possession of atomic weapons, I think it will do so one day." Red China-Russia Break Both Reynaud and Bidault foresaw the possibility of an eventual break between Red China and Russia. "China." Bidault said "is potentially three times as powerful as Russia. The Chinaman is yellow and the Russian is white. All of Com munist China is yellow, but not all of Russia is white. Some are yellow. "China's population, al ready around 650,000,000 is growing rapidly. Russia's population was 200,000,000, according to the last census. That is about 15,000,000 less than had been thought. "China's huge and rapidly Increasing population, cou pled with the program of in dustrialization and education of its many millions means that Russia must eventually be subordinated to China." Reynaud said he told Khru shchev to beware of China. He cautioned the Soviet ruler that the recent decision of the Chinese Communist leaders to abandon the birth control program and promote instead a rapid increase in the al ready huge population was an ill-omen for the White race. "When I was explaining to Khrushchev that the Allies insist on the unification of Germany as the basis for a European settlement," Rey naud said, "he asked me: Common Chinese Peril " 'Why do you insist on forming a United Europe?' "Because, I replied, in 25 years there will be one billion Chinese, and the division of Europe in the face of that power is an anachronism. I stressed that point because I am convinced that the only consideration that will one day make possible a genuine understanding and rapproach ment between Russia and the West will be the common Chinese peril." Bidault and Reynaud agreed that Communist China is now exercising a danger ous influence' on Soviet pol icy. They both interpreted Khrushchev's action in call ing off a summit meeting aft er his recent visit to Peiping as evidence that the Chinese Communist leaders had im posed a "veto" power on Rus sia's freedom of action with the Western powers. "Communist China," Rey naud said, "was very violent at the beginning of the Mid dle East crisis. Much more so than Russia. It is now clear that China is pressing Russia to adopt a stiffer attitude to wards Poland and Yugoslavia. It is apparent that Peiping is Science Shrinks Piles iNew Way Without Surgery Stops ltch-Kelieyes Pain Kw York, 1. T. (Special) For the first time science has found a new healing substance with the aston ishing ability to shrink hemor rhoids, stop itching, and relieve pain without surgery. In ease after case, while gently relieving pain, actual reduction (shrinkage) took place. Most amazing of all results were ao thorough that sufferers made astonishing statements like "Piles uave ceasea 10 De a problem! The secret is a new healing sub stance (Bio-Dyne) discovery of a world-famous research institute. This substance is now available in suppository or ointment form under the name Preparation H. At your druggist. Money back guarantee. Beg. U. S. Fat. 02. trying to isolate the Soviet Union from the West and block any possibility of set tlement between Russia and the Western powers. This is a development of capital im portance." Threat io Russia Reynaud said he empha sized to Khrushchev that the decision of the Chinese Com munists to increase the birth rate represents "one of the most significant and impor tant developments in all his tory." "I said that he might well ask himself when China will say to Russia that Siberia is part of China's vital living space. I added that the birth rate in Russia is likely to di minish as the educated Rus sian develops a desire to see his son enjoy a better life than he has known. "The Russian woman is less well dressed than the Ameri can and French women, but far better dressed today than the Chinese woman. There is no doubt that the standard of living in Russia is higher than it was under Stalin. "At the present rate of progress, the Russian people 20 years from now will be rich in comparison with the Chinese. "My exposition of the po tential danger to Russia from the proposed increase in the Chinese population caused Khrushchev to be silent for several moments. He did not Indiana Boy Wins Soap Box Derby Akron, Ohio (UPD James Miley, 15, Muncie I n d., flashed over 975-foot Derby Downs here Sunday to the grand prize of a $5,000 schol arship, a trophy and a trip to the next Rose Bowl game as the 21st annual All-American and International Soap Box Derby champion. Miley's victory over 160 entrants recalled the first Soap Box Derby 21 years ago won by another Muncie boy, Bob Turner. Miley, a high school sopho more, sped his black racer, sponsored by the Muncie Star, down the course in 27.86 sec onds to beat Ronnie Ashely, 14, Los Angeles, the runnerup. Pope Speaks to Rally In West Berlin Berlin (UPD Pope Pius XII said Sunday that Catho lics living under Communism often face greater difficulties than the early Christians who lived in a "stifling heathen world." He bade them defend their faith ."to the last." The Pope's recorded message was played to 170,000 Catholics from East and West Germany assembled in West Berlin's Olympic Sta dium for a final meeting of ia five-day Catholic rally. He spoke in German. say what he may have been thinking. He is, however, a. clever man, not a madman like Hitler." Williams Tells of Trip Across Desert (Editor's note: The follow ing is a letter from Jeff Williams, son of the Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Williams, Medford. Young Williams is on a hitch-hiking trip around the world. This is one of the letlers received by his parents, who have forwarded it to the Mail Tribune upon request). By JEFF WILLIAMS Mirjawa: The train has stop ped at this desert oasis in the border of Iran and Pakistan, so I will take this chance to write a short account. An American and I are sharing a compartment, and after what I have been through, it is sheer heaven. Leaving Iran, I boarded a train for Meshed, in northeast Iran. I traveled the cheapest passage, $4 for 500 miles. The compartment I was put in was built for eight, but there were 12 of us. All I had to eat for 24 hours was a half a melon and some tea. In Meshed, I had to wait overnight for the bus to Zahidan (to get a train there to Pakistan). I tried to get some sleep on the bench in the station. At 4 a.m. we were off to cross 500 miles of desert. That first day was un forgettable! The wind started to blow streaks of sand acros sthe dirt road, and soon the streaks were three and four inches deep. Then all hell came un done! The wind seemed to pick up the whole desert and drop it on us. Visibility was strictly aero. Dunes three to six feet high blocked the road and forced us to turn onto the windswept desert. How the driver kept his eyes open and going in the right direction, I'll never know. We were huddled together with our eyes closed and sand in our teeth. Fortunately he man aged to stay near the edge of Nautilus Leaves for Brooklyn Navy Yard Portland, Eng. (UPD The U.S. atomic submarine Nau tilus leaves here today on the week-long voyage to the Brooklyn Navy yard, running underwater all the way. Three newspapermen, in cluding UPI Correspondent William F. Sunderland, will make the crossing in the Nau tilus. , the' road and now and then we came upon water holes. These are round mud huts with stairs leading down to the spring pool inside. The water was clear, but had all sorts of critters floating around and in and out of the water. My system was hardly accustomed to that kind of water, but I was forced to drink ( it, which I did by straining it through my shirt. Every day we would knock off from 1 to 5 p.m. ostensibly to escape the desert heat, but the little rest houses were too stifling hot to get any. The trip that was supposed to take 24 hours took 48. Arriving in Zahidan, I found I had a three-day wait for the next train to Pakistan. So I went in the first hotel I found and spent most of that day. When I woke, something must have happened to my erstwhile good health. At first I thought the bugs in the water must have got through my shirt after all and the hall between my room and the bath was well worn by me. Then things started to come up, too, and finally I decided I also had a bad case of heat exhaustion. For two days I stayed there with nothing to eat, and saw no one. Then I pulled my self together and just made it to an English speaking doc tor who gave me some good medicine, what. I don't know. It helped, but I still could not stand the sight or smell of their food. ' The next day, to my good luck, an American who had heard about me came by and took me to his quarters at the army post (Iran army). Here I had good food, really good, boiled water and a cool show er every hour. After a couple of days of this I snapped out of it and once more feel fine and healthy. Lee, the Ameri can, had been planning a trip to Pakistan so we got a com partment together on the train and stocked up with eggs, melons, apples and boiled water for the two-day trip to Ovetta, Pakistan. After two weeks in this desert, I dream about the cool stream's of the Olympic moun tains, the breezes that come every afternoon down the King's canyon, and best of all, I would like to dive straight into the Rogue river. ( What if You Have an Accident a Thousand Miles From Home? . You can get help immediately if you bought your car trance from an independent insurance agent. 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