1 MAIL TRIBUNE, MtdW, Oregon, Monday, August 18, 1958
Ranch Offers Touch of Wild West
Joaquin Miller Spread Near John Day
Named for Famed Gold Rush Era Poet
The foMowtmi Is I cnedenutloe of a
onotoriof aopeerine m me Sunday Ore
onlaa, oao of n ennual series spon
sored jointly by Tho Ornonian and IM
4regoa Stata Motor Ann. Turn traval
articlM describe vacation trips and des
tination throughout me Normwcst and
' are rcomrMndd for evt-of-stata viss
: tors comine to Oraooa durine roe Cest
. teoniel Year observance.
Ey LEVERETT RICHARDS
Staff Writer, Tha Oregonian
The old Wfld West of song
and story. Thats what the
dudes from the effete East
want to see when they come
West to share Old Man Ore
gon's 100th birthday cake next
year.
They can find it (among oth
er places) 100 feet off the main
highway at the Joaquin Miller
Guest ranch, 10 miles south of
John Day on Highway 395, just
10 miles off Highway 26, one of
America s main streets.
: We set out on an Oregonian
Oregon State Motor Assn.
motorlog in search of the Wild
West to complete the educa
tion of Jaap Wertheun, the
Dutch student who spent the
year with us under the Amer
ican Field Service program.
Cowbodys are scarce in the
Tietherlands. So are moun
tains.
"We have just one. It is 300
feet high and all sand," Jaap
used to say.
Pin Trees Scarce
' Pine trees are scarce, too,
and the deer are not for hunt
ing. Joaquin Miller dude ranch,
named for the rootin', tootin'
nnof rf ornM mich riavs looked
lTJV. to W.U . w.. J
like a frontier ranch should
a cluster of red buildings with
false fronts that looked like the
Red Dog saloon and the Dead
Eye Dance Hall, the country
store and the blacksmith shop
of a typical cowtown, all nes-
I Mac
JOAQUIN
Mil I PR
rtocJ f ticcr BaUTll
ijoequln Miller Guest Ranch
jis on Highway 395, 10 miles
south of John Day. Map shows
i variety of routes to ranch.
tied in a mountain meadow un
der redolent pines at the foot
of Canyon Mountain.
Sure enough there is a sa
loon, now converted to tamer
use; a blacksmith shop, and a
real western dance hall. There
is also a cook house where
steaks, mashed potatoes, pie
and cake are served family
style in quantities.
There is also a comfortable
swimming pool, 24 by 70 feet,
fed by natural hot springs and
open from dawn to near mid
night James E. (Jim) Sharp
used to run the ranch as a pub
lic resort until he and Volney
McHaley teamed up last year
to establish it as a guest
ranch and hunting headquar
ters, season June 1 to Oct 30.
They have cabins for 18
guests on the banks of Canyon
Creek under the murmuring
pines, and apartments for a
half dozen more in the main
lodge building, which includes
dance hall and lounge. They
also have horses, dozens of
them. And thereby hangs a
tale.
Horse Said Famous
Jaap, our Dutch student, had
never seen a real, live saddle
bronc close up, much less
straddled one.
"Your horse is famous,"
the ranch hands had assured
him, solemnly. "Widow-Maker,
they call him, because he's
killed so many riders."
"When I saw "that horse,
now, I was believing it, too,"
Jaap later confessed. "He was
so much bigger and stronger
than I."
But - Jim , and Deke and
Frank McHaley, Deke's dad,
who introduced bareback buck
ing to the Pendleton Round-Up
and a dozen dudes were wait
ing with wide grins. So the
Dutch boy got up. He and
"Widow-Maker" whose call
ing name was really Tracy-
were close friends in a few
minutes, except when Tracy
trotted. Jaap didn't trot when
Tracy did. .
"Tracy is always coming up
when I am coming down.
What's the matter with him?
Jaap complained.
Nevertheless, the wnoie lam-
fly rode ten miles that day,
winding through the parklike
woods, up steep hills and into
the open reaches of the high
country, where Deke and Jim
rode off through the chaparral
to scare up a dozen deer.
This is the heart of the deer
country. Dudes have seen as
many as 150 in a day. In hunt
ing season the open woods are
ablaze with gunfire. But Sharp
and McHaley take their parties
in to a 6,000 - acre private
ranch near Izee where a hunter
has only to sit and shoot The
ranch adjoins the Canyon
Creek archery reserve where
only bows and arrows may be
used. Here Jim and Deke drive
the deer slowly past the firing
line for the hunters. Elk hunt
ing is more rugged, but good.
More than 9,000 deer and
more than 1,000 elk were killed
in Grant County in 1956.
Good Fishing Available
Fishing, too, is good on
Canyon Creek, and irresistible
on more inaccessible tributar
ies. The refrigerator was full
of tender ten-inch Rainbow
trout when we were there.
We couldn't get our gang out
of the old swimming pool ex
cept for riding, eating and
square dancing, however. The
Mt Vernon square dancers
showed up in. force and lured
some of the dudes from the
ranch into joining their
squares.
There's something about the
sweet scent of pine at high
noon on a hot day that makes
a man want to sleep by the;
murmuring creek. But our
hosts had to show us some
more of the Old West a calf
branding bee on the Niles
Sproul ranch in nearby Bear
Valley.
There a half dozen neighbor
families converged around thei
big log corral on a sunny Sun-i
day morning to help with the!
branding.
Calves Headed, Heeled
No fancy mechanical squeeze
boxes here. These cowmen;
"head and heel" their calves.:
One passes a loop around the;
rugged range calf, then leadsj
the balky critter into the centerj
of the corral where another
mounted cowhand passes his;
loop over one or both of the:
calf's hind legs.
The well-trained horses then!
stretch the bawling calf out)
while he is branded, vaccinat-l
ed, emasculated, his ears1
notched and his horn buds'
cauterized. This was almost too'
much for our Dutchman on hisi
first dude ranch, until he saw
the calves frisk away unhurt
by their ordeal.
We were only sorry we could
not stay for the potluck dinner
which concludes these tradi
tional branding bees.
But we each had a date with
a horse. We didn't want to
waste a iinute of the magic of
Joaquin Miller ranch.
At Niles Sproul's urging, Jaap Wertheim tries his hand
with branding iron, holding it like a professional. Ranch is
oae of last using old "head and heel" handling of calves.
French Statesmen Say West's
Greatest Danger is Red China
By KINGSBURY SMITH
United Press International
Paris (UPD Two of France's
most eminent statesmen
warned today that the West's
greatest danger from the
Communist World in the fu
ture is likely to come from
Red China.
Former Premiers Paul Ray
naud and Georges Bidault, in
exclusive interviews with this
correspondent, said, the Chi
nese Communist leaders ap
pear much more willing to
risk war with the West than
Russia.
Reynaud, who recently re
turned from a meeting with
Soviet Premier Nikita Khru
shchev in Moscow, went so
far as to predict that Commu
nist China will one day precip
itate war with the Western
powers.
"I am convinced that Com
munist China envisages the
possibility of an atomic war
with the West sooner or
later," Reynaud said.
"Russia, under Khru
shchev's leadership, will not
deliberately precipitate war
with the West, but if Commu
nist China continues to grow
strong and gets possession of
atomic weapons, I think it
will do so one day."
Red China-Russia Break
Both Reynaud and Bidault
foresaw the possibility of an
eventual break between Red
China and Russia.
"China." Bidault said "is
potentially three times as
powerful as Russia. The
Chinaman is yellow and the
Russian is white. All of Com
munist China is yellow, but
not all of Russia is white.
Some are yellow.
"China's population, al
ready around 650,000,000 is
growing rapidly. Russia's
population was 200,000,000,
according to the last census.
That is about 15,000,000 less
than had been thought.
"China's huge and rapidly
Increasing population, cou
pled with the program of in
dustrialization and education
of its many millions means
that Russia must eventually
be subordinated to China."
Reynaud said he told Khru
shchev to beware of China.
He cautioned the Soviet ruler
that the recent decision of the
Chinese Communist leaders
to abandon the birth control
program and promote instead
a rapid increase in the al
ready huge population was an
ill-omen for the White race.
"When I was explaining to
Khrushchev that the Allies
insist on the unification of
Germany as the basis for a
European settlement," Rey
naud said, "he asked me:
Common Chinese Peril
" 'Why do you insist on
forming a United Europe?'
"Because, I replied, in 25
years there will be one billion
Chinese, and the division of
Europe in the face of that
power is an anachronism. I
stressed that point because I
am convinced that the only
consideration that will one
day make possible a genuine
understanding and rapproach
ment between Russia and the
West will be the common
Chinese peril."
Bidault and Reynaud
agreed that Communist China
is now exercising a danger
ous influence' on Soviet pol
icy. They both interpreted
Khrushchev's action in call
ing off a summit meeting aft
er his recent visit to Peiping
as evidence that the Chinese
Communist leaders had im
posed a "veto" power on Rus
sia's freedom of action with
the Western powers.
"Communist China," Rey
naud said, "was very violent
at the beginning of the Mid
dle East crisis. Much more so
than Russia. It is now clear
that China is pressing Russia
to adopt a stiffer attitude to
wards Poland and Yugoslavia.
It is apparent that Peiping is
Science Shrinks Piles
iNew Way Without Surgery
Stops ltch-Kelieyes Pain
Kw York, 1. T. (Special) For the
first time science has found a new
healing substance with the aston
ishing ability to shrink hemor
rhoids, stop itching, and relieve
pain without surgery.
In ease after case, while gently
relieving pain, actual reduction
(shrinkage) took place.
Most amazing of all results were
ao thorough that sufferers made
astonishing statements like "Piles
uave ceasea 10 De a problem!
The secret is a new healing sub
stance (Bio-Dyne) discovery of
a world-famous research institute.
This substance is now available
in suppository or ointment form
under the name Preparation H.
At your druggist. Money back
guarantee.
Beg. U. S. Fat. 02.
trying to isolate the Soviet
Union from the West and
block any possibility of set
tlement between Russia and
the Western powers. This is a
development of capital im
portance." Threat io Russia
Reynaud said he empha
sized to Khrushchev that the
decision of the Chinese Com
munists to increase the birth
rate represents "one of the
most significant and impor
tant developments in all his
tory." "I said that he might well
ask himself when China will
say to Russia that Siberia is
part of China's vital living
space. I added that the birth
rate in Russia is likely to di
minish as the educated Rus
sian develops a desire to see
his son enjoy a better life
than he has known.
"The Russian woman is less
well dressed than the Ameri
can and French women, but
far better dressed today than
the Chinese woman. There is
no doubt that the standard of
living in Russia is higher than
it was under Stalin.
"At the present rate of
progress, the Russian people
20 years from now will be
rich in comparison with the
Chinese.
"My exposition of the po
tential danger to Russia from
the proposed increase in the
Chinese population caused
Khrushchev to be silent for
several moments. He did not
Indiana Boy Wins
Soap Box Derby
Akron, Ohio (UPD James
Miley, 15, Muncie I n d.,
flashed over 975-foot Derby
Downs here Sunday to the
grand prize of a $5,000 schol
arship, a trophy and a trip to
the next Rose Bowl game as
the 21st annual All-American
and International Soap Box
Derby champion.
Miley's victory over 160
entrants recalled the first
Soap Box Derby 21 years ago
won by another Muncie boy,
Bob Turner.
Miley, a high school sopho
more, sped his black racer,
sponsored by the Muncie Star,
down the course in 27.86 sec
onds to beat Ronnie Ashely,
14, Los Angeles, the runnerup.
Pope Speaks to Rally
In West Berlin
Berlin (UPD Pope Pius
XII said Sunday that Catho
lics living under Communism
often face greater difficulties
than the early Christians who
lived in a "stifling heathen
world."
He bade them defend their
faith ."to the last." The Pope's
recorded message was played
to 170,000 Catholics from East
and West Germany assembled
in West Berlin's Olympic Sta
dium for a final meeting of ia
five-day Catholic rally. He
spoke in German.
say what he may have been
thinking. He is, however, a.
clever man, not a madman
like Hitler."
Williams Tells of
Trip Across Desert
(Editor's note: The follow
ing is a letter from Jeff
Williams, son of the Mr.
and Mrs. Thomas Williams,
Medford. Young Williams
is on a hitch-hiking trip
around the world. This is
one of the letlers received
by his parents, who have
forwarded it to the Mail
Tribune upon request).
By JEFF WILLIAMS
Mirjawa: The train has stop
ped at this desert oasis in the
border of Iran and Pakistan,
so I will take this chance to
write a short account. An
American and I are sharing a
compartment, and after what
I have been through, it is
sheer heaven. Leaving Iran,
I boarded a train for Meshed,
in northeast Iran. I traveled
the cheapest passage, $4 for
500 miles. The compartment
I was put in was built for
eight, but there were 12 of
us. All I had to eat for 24
hours was a half a melon and
some tea. In Meshed, I had to
wait overnight for the bus to
Zahidan (to get a train there
to Pakistan). I tried to get
some sleep on the bench in
the station. At 4 a.m. we
were off to cross 500 miles of
desert. That first day was un
forgettable! The wind started to blow
streaks of sand acros sthe dirt
road, and soon the streaks
were three and four inches
deep. Then all hell came un
done! The wind seemed to
pick up the whole desert and
drop it on us. Visibility was
strictly aero. Dunes three to
six feet high blocked the road
and forced us to turn onto the
windswept desert. How the
driver kept his eyes open and
going in the right direction,
I'll never know. We were
huddled together with our
eyes closed and sand in our
teeth. Fortunately he man
aged to stay near the edge of
Nautilus Leaves for
Brooklyn Navy Yard
Portland, Eng. (UPD The
U.S. atomic submarine Nau
tilus leaves here today on the
week-long voyage to the
Brooklyn Navy yard, running
underwater all the way.
Three newspapermen, in
cluding UPI Correspondent
William F. Sunderland, will
make the crossing in the Nau
tilus. ,
the' road and now and then
we came upon water holes.
These are round mud huts
with stairs leading down to
the spring pool inside. The
water was clear, but had all
sorts of critters floating
around and in and out of the
water. My system was hardly
accustomed to that kind of
water, but I was forced to
drink ( it, which I did by
straining it through my shirt.
Every day we would knock
off from 1 to 5 p.m. ostensibly
to escape the desert heat, but
the little rest houses were too
stifling hot to get any. The
trip that was supposed to take
24 hours took 48.
Arriving in Zahidan, I
found I had a three-day wait
for the next train to Pakistan.
So I went in the first hotel I
found and spent most of that
day. When I woke, something
must have happened to my
erstwhile good health. At first
I thought the bugs in the
water must have got through
my shirt after all and the hall
between my room and the
bath was well worn by me.
Then things started to come
up, too, and finally I decided
I also had a bad case of heat
exhaustion.
For two days I stayed there
with nothing to eat, and saw
no one. Then I pulled my
self together and just made
it to an English speaking doc
tor who gave me some good
medicine, what. I don't know.
It helped, but I still could
not stand the sight or smell
of their food. '
The next day, to my good
luck, an American who had
heard about me came by and
took me to his quarters at the
army post (Iran army). Here
I had good food, really good,
boiled water and a cool show
er every hour. After a couple
of days of this I snapped out
of it and once more feel fine
and healthy. Lee, the Ameri
can, had been planning a trip
to Pakistan so we got a com
partment together on the
train and stocked up with
eggs, melons, apples and
boiled water for the two-day
trip to Ovetta, Pakistan.
After two weeks in this
desert, I dream about the cool
stream's of the Olympic moun
tains, the breezes that come
every afternoon down the
King's canyon, and best of all,
I would like to dive straight
into the Rogue river.
(
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