Image provided by: Eugene Water & Electric Board; Eugene, OR
About The Twice-a week guard. (Eugene, Or.) 1910-19?? | View Entire Issue (March 13, 1911)
I.-O5T IN THE GREAT tongue spoken about u-* seemed to have a soporific effect, 1 salii Hint I felt more ns If I wanted sleep thin liny other thing, ami Hetty confer «•■fi to similar prvdllectlon». W® were so drowsy that we could hardly make fitting response to the elaborate cere monies of our re. ept Ion. Kahl Klalouha, under the tre* « fa the dwpert shade where the least wind stirring would rea* h u«, with the deep soft gr"- for a bed, w*n the I < -t place, and pilone wlre. The «Idftlng «iinds obliterate trilli» and tie detailed II little girl to wal' ll over Ils and fall IIS i.indiiKiri.s, in.ii.liig ih<* most cnrcfnlly planili«! mnps with a fragrant bough ns u ward nznli t lr *ts while i re tinnì In a* lieroii«. for thè reason flint If olio trust« we bad our nap. All the others wre sent away, ami tu a imip < tu* lo-es ’uhiiiitnge of common s<*use we Stripped off our ¡.rote live gear ai.d threw our I i"ib rnlt, .11.<1 wb* n th. campus» and eye jiidgmei t selves prone In the grass. bur attendant mite was a uro nt varl.m e wltli thè mnp tben i onie» dilemma toy woman of her people. Iler round face could not and frequenti)* cntastroplie. abide without Its smile, her great «oft eyes shone with Tlil» slngb* wlre, drisqilng betneen b-anlng ¡mie», un unvarying brilliancy, and before we droppid to limi II Ilio otlier Ilei of It thè Josef» rniuh, thè last sleep we had'quite made friend* with her, though she ■ ut|H>.t, tbo m*ni* In tlie tinger tip of thè finnl streteh could not understa..d one word we salti nor could we of in.-in’ ■ > on<|ii< t >.f cullile, and tbequeertst of tlirllls make sense out of tier baby talk In the «oft Polynesian ■•.in ■■ over me w lu n thè whlrrlng machlno flint bore us tongue, flowing like the low full throated notes of l. id b p; <-d fio* Pisi rise from whlch we conbl set* thè birds’ music. • ► l'.'iis of limi,un hnbltatton bollimi U» and we were nt We awoke to find every comfort prepared for us l.'lst II lolle III the n wful i n»tne»« of tlio valley that with a thoughtful con.-Jderatlon that was touching, and olire wa» tilt* of the «< 1. tin- one unnatural thing when we went on. leaving these pathetic exiles from Oiy Two Plucky Women, Crossing the Continent n an Automobile, Battled with Fierce Sandstorms, Laj Down to Die and Awoke Out of Peril Accepts lie 'hilMsr * ,’r"’ld»xt "htlrd u 'utidj (| <0 th« '••If. To- I f»».»'—«« -> UO young worn* u ■ t out to <*■., . tbn continent from New York to Pan I i i:i- • cisco to test the endurance of an .*ut> bile—«nd for the n«ke of adventure, '¡'hey not only art opt, but. driving I heir own cur, mrlng for it thamselve» and nsklng no man'» I.**lj>, they »S'd rroks to the Pacific const, bringing tbetnselve* and Mielr mu hlne ufe nnd ■md through a series of ».'.--«I'tui • nnd < . r »||» that would staggnr the «vertigo automobile tourist. The two venture*nine *ii I-., fully ri p- reaentatlv» of srf-rrllant Amerln.i worn.-»**, hood, were Ml Pin lips, who writes of one of the most perlh un stage» of the remarkable Journey. alone is one'it iatorast held by th<> dmigera tl**-- -h which they pasted, but there Is a k i n ph.t . /rn in grasping the p, e ,-ntat |i •*.«. r|rnl , - vid nnd real, of the nature of the ¡Ptl * kt. ■ n i** Ions traversed. 1 ■ fl II II »' By Gwrtrude Buffington Phillipa. |fraprH»kt. tail, th» xcrsi: Ksw York n»r«ta «*■». All right» r»»»rv»«1 me, but If you two gut» reckon you kin yank thnt rontrnptlon 'crost thnt desert, 1 jest wanta say you air some more likely to git there alive If you stick to the ges'd old dry l»lly mule of these purls.” | There was n certain sndm* ». fntlierllness ami bash- (fulness In th* voice of the »¡ raker He w is the gray I bended, whit* mu»tn>'hed foreman >*f n rn h In on<- f the d< ■ rt. and i f the valley* on the eastern I. rib r he bad relneC m his pony b* Id» our < r tin* n -.ruing we were ready to plunge Into the broiling, waterless, trackless wnutrs gtri ..n wtth more thnn half n cen- tury Of wbit* RS»I - I* tilners down to those of Inst spring's pniapectors who went out Int* it and never came I > k It was not the first warning we hid hnd. The des ert was the one great atrctch <>n which our wheat friends lieforu we left New York h id ¡mt th Ir lingers Balti- >i the •al» T. H<X at on the mnfi and shaken their heads doubtfully. I’rom the time «« left Iienvcr wo had met hundreds of well w isher» who know from bitter experience wliat lay before us on our route, nnd there were few of I «X» I» per* lectio i| laahu tnalaij thorn who dtd not try to deter u«. In fact. 1 believe thnt Betty nml I were Loth a little slinky over the matter the nearer nnd nenrer we drew to the confines of the region of terror, hardship ami d inger ■t aac- W<* had pllllisl through no many very close places, ns old Bini Wells, of Ited I'■ g, would any, wllh truthful cxnctl tude, “by the skin of my tooth," as Im hnd but one. that It seemed n shame t<> falter here ■ r to go on nnd fall, losing the live« of both of u . |M>rhap*. Ilut we hnd had It out the night liefore we met the bottle of water in the old rancher. The desert, with whatever danger» nnd Atlantic nnd Sun whl Eran- h W e difficulties It contained, lay het ween us and clsco, nnd there was a little To get Io the const we must ernes hnd the come desert. enr which from That (lie nettied It. We rose before daybreak In tlie slim 1. In which wo had vowed to empty Into the l’a* lib*. had found shelter and began our preparation.«, laugh mu«t cross the desert. ing nnd trying to treat the whole matter o« n .bike. In this we succeeded In d<**'c!v|ng the curious, dried up ‘‘alkalic»'* almut us, but we did not deceive each other. 1 believe Betty ¡icimcd n few hasty letters back East that would not have been written under any other circumstances. I know I took time to say soma things to those left behind, which, as I recall them, ronvllieo me of Ju»t how grave were my forebodings. We came to see much of what was promised us realized -Just how near we camo to the fulfilment of the direst of the prophecies 1» my story. We Inspect Our Equipment. The day before we hnd gone carefully over T.ndy Overland to be absolutely certain that our man ■Ilona good fortune »till held; that there were no broken or worn parts, no displacements that could be the >.*iircn of trouble when trouble meant death In the baking wastes. Now we assembled and inspected our »U|icr- •qiilpincnt with equal care. First the spokr« of the wheels were wound with rags, which must be soaked nt every water hole, per haps oftener, to keep tin* wood from drying out. TJie tires were encased In canvas shoes to protect them from the burning sand. Wherever there was a van- tage ¡mint were hung burial» covered canteens to tie dashed with water nt the lust In taut before starting, the resultant evn|»orntlon cooling the waler wlt'i'.ti for Just that much longer time. Later we must double both covers of the bonnet back to add to tic coding of the motor, nnd ¡died In the ba k was a complete wrecking outfit -ropes, |.'o«*k and t ickle, nxi*«. levers, long ennvas strips, shovels and davlics for every emergency. Not a crevice while the ¡»•netratlon of cutting sand would work httrtn was left unguarded, ami elotba were »¡iread over the controlling parte be fore us. .We could not look at em it other without l.inrhin". From neck to ankle we were Coated, booted nnd gautleted with but two objective« first not to smoth er ourselves, second to keep out the sand nnd dust. Betty wore a broad lirlmtned hit tied down u dir her chin nnd a mask nnd goggles. I wore a hat with a brim not so broad mid my head mid face wound with thin . ..... la Bttt d ■ '• BP to mj ■ It '• tile effect was half dce|i «ea diverlsli and half of the Turkish hnrenilll.c. In the matter of fmsl supply "e realized that we had made n mistake In leaving behind us In Nebraska a weighty box of emergency supplies. V •• had been uverprovldent when leuvlng the Ml -IS'dppi Valley and on reullxllig It wo had gone Io the other extreme. Now we found that we luid tru-ted t o niu< h to wav* sld.‘ forage. Clvlllzatlun nt the iilge » f th ■ desert could supply us pro|s»rly for a quick and «u-cessfut crossing, but not with what we should need ii ml >.i|> liefell us. There was nothing to do but bike the chaneos, however, mid while the dried up men. women nnd children of the little group about us .lulled mid wished u» well wc took our seat.» nnd the enr forged • bend. For the time being onr best guide was a single tele- AMERICAN 'a about us tl * t sagging dust gray wire, stretching on. on before us till lost In the wavering haze of heat. ~ We were In a new, strange and lonely world—a place of great emptiness anil of a stillness so vast that the silence sis* med to ¡mntil in our ears and oppress them. Even nt the edge of the desolate land there was a spirit so Intensely depressing that the few vagrant birds flew low, close to the friendly earth, as If afraid to soar high and free, quite ns If they felt the enormity of forbidding space about them and were afraid of it. However, wc were not yet depleted physically and could enjoy the beauties about us, for the desert is beautiful or horrible Just as one looks at It. Behind us were mountains that we knew, and to glance back at their vague wave at the skyline gave us a sense of protection. Kight, left and before us was that same wnve, the same suggestion of eminences, and though we knew that In one direction were mountains which we might see, w'liat could account for the seeming presences In the other direction? Were they the ghosts of ranges wiped out long ago when earth was In the making, their shadowy semblances still uplifted lu the desert's eternal luiragery? Swiftly the panorama swept by—the wonderful shading of the sand from pale buff to deepest red and then back buff splotched with the gray in w hite of alkali collected on the surface, lost sometimes In the vivid green of the grease wood and the purple and gold tints of the distant table lands—that was the coloring. The conformation is something that words cannot reproduce. It Is illogical and surpass ingly fantastic. Low dips a valley that would be beautiful grown green and (lotted with trees, but from its rock dotted waste rises a sharp hill n hun dred feet high or more. Just a tone or mound of sand upbenved, where the reason says It should not be. .Smaller dunes, broad flowing slopes of drifted color, rocks laid out almost geometrically, only to be suc ceeded by stony heaps »¡tread about without a hint of form In their helter-skelter scheme. Many ¡daces look ns If God or man had begun something, then gone on and left it. We were running at a high »¡iced, anxious to make the Josefa before dark, and, having the guidance of the telephone wire, our greatest concern was to be on the watch out for deep sand, fearing a broken ro<l or stripperl transmission. No such misfortune befell us, however, and at last, when It seemed that the decline of the sun was purposeful, that lie might get down where he could peer Into our faces and mock ns the better for our physically agonized state, w e caught sight of .the first clumps of green ahead of ns. the first flare of a white wall, the first slow movement of a living mass In the haze, that we knew to be live stock, and we boro down on the oasis. Rapidly It resolved Itself Into the mellow topax of grain Helds and the opaque green of trees sheltering the habitations of the Interesting colony thnt has pitched Itself there. They are Hawaiian*, who settled there many years ago. and nt the sound of our approach they came from all directions to witness the unusual sight we presented. In their simple cotton clothes, their brown, good humored faces alight with mingled won der and welcome, they made a striking picture. The manager, a tall, dark, powerful man, of the name of Klaloahn, came forward, greeted us in English, and offered us the hospitality of the settlement Steadily growing In volume, the musical babble of the strange stopped at one worse than the others and decided to try to detour it. About rhe second turn of the wheels the bank gave way and the car lurched to one side, almost turning turtle, but clinging nicely bal anced on the brink. I bounded out. B<*’’y following me. and In five minutes we h id a stake driven on the side away from the ditch, had a cable rope holding the car so that ft should not slide over Into the gulch and wore rigging the block and tackle to limi! Lady Overland ba' I; to a safe footing. The very earth and stones seemed rotten with their centuries of lonely decay. They crushed under tlie levers and a steady stream poured down Into the gulch, till at Inst it seennsl easier to lower the car to the bottom and then try to drive It out to level ground. The sun hung on the edge of the world a few sec onds and then plunged down out of sight, while night rushed over the wastes with the speed of the shadows of a cloud storm. In five minutes It was dark and we were alone with the desert and the stars. How ever, driving at night was nothing new to us, and It was so perceptibly cooler that after lighting the great lamps and refreshing ourselves with food and water we renewed our struggles with the machine. It was better to work on it then, we argued, than under a beating sun. Somewhere about midnight we suc ceeded In getting it under way. loaded In our tools and tackle, and, crushing, grinding, pitching down the bed of the gulch, came at last to a tlat where the sand was so deep that It seemed hopeless. We must cross It or stay where we were, so getting out the canvas strips we began moving forward fifty feet at a time, till at last we were able to climb back to the top of the DESERT drops or hallstones 1» let down nnd the terror sweeps on. What r.i*.l * r*> falls Is ■<> quickly licked up by the thirsty ground that the emerging sun finds not a drop left for Ills recovery to the clonds. We were some three miles from the nearest buttes when we noticed the darkening of the sun and In a moment more perceived tho whirling, awful spec- tacle rushing toward us, lightning flaring from the shoulder < f every cloud and the desert echoing with the relestlnl bombard nent. Reckless of the undue expenditure of the failing supplies of the car, wc put it to top speed and, turning sharply, began n race to g>*t out of the ¡infix of tlie storm. This one caught us only with its side, but wo were no sooner on our way than another bore down, and this time we were drenched to the skin. It Is Impossible to describe how the power of the revolving air could trav»*» e a path of the desert’» des olation and make It even more desolate nnd difficult of passage. Jr,si about the time we wore dried out and under wav properly again a third storm ap peared In much the same track ns the first. We tried to cross Its path, using the speed of the machine to evade It. but again we were caught, and for a few minutes we wore In the centre of a maelstrom of sand, flying brush nnd small »tores, through which pelted great hailstones, until nt last w * were forced to atop the motor and cower, holding fast to our seat», not knowing what Instant we should be wrenched from them. ♦ Getting Their Bearings. In our exhausted, bewildered state the effect of these three mauling« nnd drenching« by wind and rain was much greater than If we hnd been fresh. We realized that we had best pnll ourselves together and wo stopped short to rest and confer. Our maps were brought out, the meter record» checked up nnd bear ings taken. In the objective which we hnd due west should have been a series of valleys, but we were headed directly for a range of mountains which we could see plainly in the cleared nlr. To the north should have been more mountains, but there was only the level line of the desert broken by low mesas. We were going west, of that much we could be certain, but somehow we were out of the track and lost. It seemed strange to look on the roughly drawn map and see Fish Springs. Standsury Range, the Skull Valley and further on Willow Springs or Calloa, Deep Creek Mountain Pass and the settlement of Ibapah and know just where we wanted to go and how we wanted to go. If we only knew where we were starting from. At last we decided that our compass was not correct or we had shown a right handed idiosyncrasy in steering and were too far north, so wc aimed for the southern end of the mountains before us and plunged ahead again. Some ten miles further on something happened which we had been very careful to avoid so far. There □ re »¡»its in the alkali crust that cover quicksands, and to the trained eye they are unmistakable. If one breaks through the crust there Is danger of being Ingulfed by the sands. We had circled or crossed with a rush many such spots aud had no trouble, but suddenly as one came before us at the bottom of _____ , ,, „ a grade we saw we had not time or the proper ground rew Myself t>uwn on the Desert Floor and Lay There Gasping to circle it and must rush it, wide as it was. The for* wheels broke through, but more power drove us on, green aud lovely Hawaii, Isolated In the midst of the ridge we had been travelling and after another and just when we were about to jump to save our barren, baking, inhospitable desert, it was with the came to a fine broad, open stretch. selves from being caught in the sinking car the fore greatest regret. A Myste rious Light. wheels made solid ground and clung while the rear Now tune, tempo and orcbestratloiuchnnged sharply, horl- Over this we sped, using a star on the western raspingly. Head, blinding, white, calm heat followed ton as a guide till it dropped below the skyline, Sud- remained desperately grounded. the hour after dawn, and the nearer approach of the denly to the left we saw a light, unmistakably the The sun was still an hour high and we hurried to heart of the desert brought wilder, more terrific and light of a lamp or a very small camp fire, and, swing get out the tools and emergency equipment, exhausted appalling prospects. There was a vast difference ing the machine, we plunged forward at full speed, ns we were, nnd set to work. IIovv we contrived to thrust suddenly upon us. No sooner were we out of eyes alternately on the foreground beteath the fan of use the strength necessary in digging nvvay the sand, sight of the Hawaiian ranch than we realized at the the great lamps’ ray and on the yellow speck that be careful not to get caught ourselves, get the strips of first piece of rough ground we struck, where we had tokened human presence. Nearer and nearer It came, canvas In place and at last work the Car Into safety to ¡>lck our way among dunes and sand masses turn and then, when we were not two hundred yards away, Just after dark I do not know. When at last we were ing slowly to sandstone, that we had placed a depend It went out. ready to proceed I was so worn out that I threw my ‘ ■■ ence on that guiding telephone wire the day before When we were on the precise spot where it should self down on the desert floor and lay there gasping, which was far more than we knew. When we were have been we stopped. No voice auswered our calls. my lips swollen and cracked, my throat like a furnace, clear of obstacles and fronted by a smooth stretch of No sign of house, corral or trail was thereabout. my eye- great burning hot blurs in the front of my sand we were sdru> k by the sense of loss of direction. Nothing Indicated that this was any different from bead as I strove to look up at the stars. Betty was in To no vague shape <>n the western skyline dared we any other part of the desert, and at last spreading our even worse condition than I, for she had hurt her trust; it might be butte near at hand, distant mountain blankets on the still hot sand we stretched ourselves shoulder and was in agony. cloud top or mirage of mountains, and our sole reliance out to sleep till daybreak. With every muscle aching and every sense numbed was the compass. With the coming of the morning light we found we realized that we had l»ecn fighting all day for our Hitherto we hail followed a sort of road; now we ourselves in the centre of a level tract at least two lives and were now In a fair way to lose. The water lost the continuance of it in the first twenty minutes miles wide. The sand was white and smooth and was nearly exhausted. The great fuel tank, which out where some late saudstorm had tilled every rut, nowhere was it broken in any way to show that man we had never thought would be overdrawn, showed every hoof or w heel mark with an obliterating stretch had passed there In all the ages of its state. Often, that onr touring radius was close to Its limit. The of Hie desert’s powder. Not many miles had we gone often, I have wondered as to the mystery of that light. best thing to do was to go on at once If one of us over alternating smooth stretches and rough ridges Was it sotue outlaw in fhe desert who feared the ar could keep the strength to drive, because if we stayed ami hummocks before we mounted one ridge higher rival of a sheriff m a machlue? Was It that we were where we were till morning we should have lost eleven than the others and, looking k, could follow the self deceived? What could It have been? Where h> urs of time. Just so much more evaporated and furrows of our tires well enough to see with th.» did It go? Perhaps these lines will come under the leaked water, and our physical condition would be stlU glasses that we had been zigzagging—not only that, eyes of the man that knows. I should be glad to be worse. but had been working northward Into the widest and informed. Once again the great lamps blazed a path before ua more dangerous part of the desert. To have gone on Taking careful inventory of our supplies, we were and. seeing by the stars, we set out. I remember as we moved would have left ns at the eml of the alarmed to find that our water supply had diminished thinking of the warnings we bad had, of the old ranch day forty miles out of cur chosen course. We must tn the heat of the desert with far greater rapidity man’s advice to employ a mule in preference to an au sacrifice speed to cart», and the loss of speed meant than we had been led to expect, and that in the dark tomobile. and my one emotion was not one of regrot, the lengthening of the time of transit and an increase ness In the gulch the night before two of tlie big cun but of childish hurt pride that we should have opened of the danger. teens had been toru from their slings. We must make the way for any "I told you so’s.” Often at night there will come to me in sleep a sense a point where we could renew our water supply, or it Somewhere after midnight we still hnd sense enough of Jolting and Jarring over rocks, dry gullies aud would be a case of the ear going, dry or of our being to see that we had driven Into a cul de sac of dune» clumps of sagebrush, with a bca'.ing heat on my head reduced to famishing. Of food we had enough for the and rocks and that xve should have to stop and care and back, while my eyes are glued to a glaring glass day, and no more. fully work our way out. Wc tried it, but we were too disk, under which whirls and trembles a magnetic With every bone in my body aching I climbed Into nearly done for, and only aucceeeded in making our po needle. The hunter on foot In the forest, the mariner my seat. I was afraid to ask Betty how she felt, sition luextrlcable. nt sen, may care to steer by compass, but permit me though the haggard lines of iier face would have The game was up We had lost, and the only chanc* to say that negotiating the American desert by its answered any such quest iou. Under any oilier cir we had was to wait till morning and try to stagger guidance Is a terrifying tadt. By noon we were cumstances I would have enjoyed the new sights on afoot to find some water hole. Equipped xvith forced to admit that for three hours we had sighted before ns as the change came over the country. The everything that modern nu hanlcat Ingenuity could none of the landmarks which we had been told to dunes gave place to more of the steep sided mesas, devise for conquer ng the desert with power awheel, expect If we succeeded In following (lie proper route, orange, purple and red tinged, baked since the days we were back to the first principle» of the lonely and so we knew we were off the course and must wheu the great Inland sea burst through its barriers prospector who goes out with Ills well seasoned burro make our own tight on onr own road. to the south, tore out the canyons that let the waters to .- arch these gold filled hills for the key to their The heat seemed to increase rapidly, but reason down to the level of the receding oceans, leaving be tVeasures and who leaves ids bones to bleach on the told us that this sensation was due to the decline of hind only the sheet which has shrunk year by year sands among the greasewood. We were not as well the resistance of our vitality. into what is to-day Great Kalt Lake. off as he, for we had not his previous experience and In and out between the eminences we moved landcm ft. On the Brink of the Gully. When 1 stretclu .1 myself on the blanket I felt mor Swinging around a low mesa we found thnt we steadily, bearing westward, ami. coming to another hud advanced to what seemed nil impasse. Bight and broad valley about m on, found another series of mis ally certain that I should not get up again. It was not sleep that was coming over ine. It was the drowse left were miles of rocks, so rough that it was 1 iii | mis - fortunes awaiting us in the form ;>f a group of elec of something more terrible -then daylight In my eyes, »Ible to drive the machine over or between them, and trical storms sweeping np from the southwest In this the sound of bleating sheep In my ears and some stretching directly before us was a sort of ridge, locality, though the general direction In the desert how -somehow though it «remtd thnt my head would be wreie-le d from my shoulders I turned to look something of a low hogback, but cut and creased with Is from northwest to southeast. and beheld a flock of < o'nlirtg down the hillside gullies. We must try to gulil * the car out of Its length, A haze blots the sun aud one feels a moment of before an old sun driaff. wondering eyed herder. He trusting to find a way to descend at the other end, or relief, then looks suddenly up the wind to see a dark was nearly too sur; 'J. J to talk aud we too b idly off f wo must turn and detour around tlie stretches of columnar mass with a slightly funnel shape bearing to answer. On the other «idZ of the hill was water— plenty of rock. Wo decided to try the ridge. Timo and true down with incredible speed. Its base catches sand. / d again the front wheels plunged into ^lry ditches from bushes, trails, whatever ft crosses; tears and tosses us to th** Paint* / which wc were morally certain that they would not them about and, amid a terrific roar of thunder and a ley was a big rZich house. That was nil. That wag / emerge. At last, when the sun was getting low, we magnifit*«nt display of lightning, a shower of hot rain enough. / r