The Oregon scout., December 31, 1891, Image 14

sunset
SOUTH AMERICA.
Scenes and Incidents in the
Far-oil Land.
THE RUINED CITY OF PANAMA.
An Interesting Pleco of History in Re
gard to Lima, tbo Capital of
Peru.
The following Interesting letter was
written for Thk Scout by Mrs. Eva Stone
nec Miss Eva Shinn, formerly of this city.
It is an ablo article and will be rind with
great pleasure bytlio many friends of the
writer in this nnd llaker county:
It happened sonic few months ago that
an opportunity was ollcrcd me of making
a short visit to Peru. Nothing could have
been more to my tnstc.for besides the prom
ise of a long delightful scu voyage, (hero
was the still more alluring prospect of see
ing that strango nnd curious country. The
following pages arc the result of my visit
to Lima which, though all too short, shall
ever linger in my memory as one of the
most delightful experiences of my life.
On the 15th of February, I found myself
on board tho steamer "City of Sidney''
bound for Peru. A dense fog hum: over
rfnn Francisco and, as wc sailed out of tho
'Golden Gate," I was glad to seek shelter
from tho piercing wind in tho warmth and
shelter of tho saloon. In u few days, how
'ever, we had passed into a kindlier clkno,
and sailing along the coast of Lower Cali
fornia, were enjoying tho warm rays of tho
sun and watching the whales which could
now and then be descried sporting about
on the waves, and throwing up jets of
sparkling water liko fountains springing
up from the sea.
On tho llfthdav out we reached the har
bor Mazatlan off the coast of Mexico, whore
the steamer rode at anchor all day. Tho
awnings were htretehed to keep off the
bright rays of the sun; the nir was soft and
balmy ; and lounging on deck listening to
the droamy splash of the waves against tho
tlilp's bows, and the roar of tho breakers
on the distant coast, I could see tho town
of Mazatlai? with its Cathedral tower rising
above tho surrounding buildings. Though
situated on u desolate and barren coast,
Mazatlan looks quite picturesque from tins
steamer. The harbor is formed by a series
of islands which were probably oneo chained
together in one continuous coast lino, but
which havo been torn asunder by some
great convulsion of nature. It Is chiefly to
theso islands that the town, owes its plctur
csquo nppoaranco especially to one which
rises pcrcipltouslv out of tho water, and
whose top Is crowned by a light-house.
After leaving Mazatlan, eight delightful
days passed by, for tho most part spent in
reading and lounging about on deck. The
sea was beautifully calm often as smooth
as glass. For sovcral days at n time wo
would bo out of sight of laud, and in tho
dreamy atmosphero surrounding mo
would almost forget tho busy world until
the ship rodu Into some harbor where, at
nor approach, countless little boats, dart
ing about on tho waves liko so many mln
nows, at once rodo up alongside some to
tako passengers ashore, somo loaded with
tropical fruits to tempt the appetite of the
traveler. Then would begin tho noise and
confusion of unloading and taking on
freight, the cries of the sailors mingling
with thoso of the (ruit-vcuders. Again tin
steamer would leave the harbor, again the
coast would gradually disappear from sight,
and again I would be carried off into tho
world of dreams. My favorite seat at night
was nt tho stern of tho vessel where 1 could
watch the nhip's wake aglow with phospho
reseoni. iigm, stretching out behind a
stream of silver in the dark inliuitudo of
waters; above, tho moon riding through tho
heavens shed down her soft rays upon mo;
around pie jMayod tho balmy breezes of tho
tropics'; beneath mo rolled tho great billows
of the ocean.
' When I camo upon dock on the morning
of tho 'JMh, tho steamer was Hearing tho
port of San Joso do Guatemala, where It
soon east anchor. Tho Httlo town nestled
near tho beach; tho coast extending on
either side covered with a heavy growth of
crceu trees; in tho distance, tbo majestic
forms of two volcanoes lifting their tall
heads into tho sky all mingled together
forms a charming landscape. Tho country
for miles Inland Is covered with rich collco
plantations nnd luxuriant banana groves
to whoso tropical beauty tho menauciug as
pect of thu two volcanoes In tho back
ground presents n striking contrast. These
mountains are something over 3500 feet In
height; from one of thorn there issues oc
casionally n throateninc puff of sinoko.
which is at stated Intervals accompanied by
great streams of lire. In 1881 there was an
eruption of bolting water from one of thorn,
from which It la called "Volcano do Agua"
t water volcano) in contradistinction to
the "Volcan do Fuego," or Firo Vuleano.
Though theso volcanoes havo never done
any damage to tho fertile plain spread out
beneath thorn, thoy hover oyer it liko dls
tontcntod spirits longing to destroy Its
beauty by a deadly Hood of tiro and lavn.
Our steamer arrived in Panama two days
behind time, and on this account I missed
tbo South American steamer and was do
Ulned In l'auarua several days. Though
anxious to reach Lima, I was glad of an op
"portunlty to eo this historic city, which
betides tho famous canal work, affords
many tilings of Intercut. As tho steamer
entered the bay, I saw In tho distance a
long row of tlmo-worn building lining tho
kbore, and rising from tho midst tho two
towers of tho old Jesuit Cathedral. What
ilm struck mo was tho aged, dilapidated
Appearance of the town a feeling which
was doubly Increased an I walked about h
narrow unit Irregular ulreeu. Kvrry wlivro
there were ruin- ruins of ohiirrhci, ruini
of irfoiig, ruins of forln-iuuny of which
oversown mIUi luxuriant vine were ul
cure lurrelliiif uiul iloturiiiie. TlMly.
Iliu mica lloiiruhlng rtty of riiiiumu u
thing f the m, u Mory Uiwt H (old
TkttHoulli Aiiwjruii (siiut, 'Coijiiliii
U,' u which uMmueJ .ttiui;u v mU
mtiiof hH h Mfltluey' iu )i!yy filled
mp u! nw4wy uyw'rlUu HM.
The passengers were, for the- most part,
Spanish nnd as my knowledge of that lan
guage is limited to a few simple words, I
was loft alone with my own thoughts for
companions. I nad been so long accus
tomed to think of the Equator as a certain
lino drawn across ine centre m mu rau
tho maps that, when the captain told mc j
wc were approaching it, I found niynelf nl- ,
most unconsciously looking for some visible j
division line; having passed it without sec-1
Ing nnythitig of that naturo, 1 felt as though ;
I had been cheated out of some sight wortli
seeing. It Is, indeed, strange how such
impressions cauilomlnatc over the mind.
Now it was that 1 first caught sight of
tho glorious Andes sweeping abruptly from
tho shore. As we sailed further down tho
coast, tho snow-capped peaks of this mag
nificent range gradually increased in alti
tude until on entering the beautiful Gulf of
Guayaquil, I beheld them. at their most
stupendous height. The broad summit of
Chlmborazo clothed in everlasting snows,
the shining cono of Cotapaxt dazzling in
its whiteness theso titanic works of na
ture, crowning glories of the Andes, I
beheld ns wo nailed up the Guayaquil river
whoso shores arc covered with all the lux
uriant verdure known to n tropical clime.
Ah, what pen can describe a sunset on that
river tho calmness of Its rippling waters;
the emerald verdure of its shore, where
stately palms wave to and fro with every
passing breeze; the vista far up the river,
disappearing inn Hood of misty light; the
quiet hush brooding over sea and land,
making tho very atmosphere seem to
trembio as If awaiting the departure of the
great, red sun as It sinks rapidly from sight,
transforming with its parting rays tho
silvery ridge of the distant Cordilleras into
a brilliant lino of crimson drawn across tho
sky!
To the tropical luxuriance of Guayaquil,
Pacta, tho next port, presents a striking
contrast. Ono cannot Imagine a spot more
desolate or more unlit for tho habitation of
man. Hald cllflW of a light tawny hue and
destitute of llower or shrub rising abruptly
from the ocean; a desolate town burning
under tho fays of a fierce tropical sun; and
beyond all, n barren waste of mountains
stretching out on either side as far as cyo
can reach this Is the scene that meets the
traveler's gazo as tho steamer rides into the
open road-stead. In the whole town there
Is but ono solitary tree tho prltlo of the
Inhabitants but just over those arid
mountains lies an emerald valley, watered
by crystal rivers fed from the snows of the
Coulilleras, and said to be ono of tho most
beautiful spots in all Peru. Since tho early
part of the 17th century, Pacta 1ms been
tho Port from whence tho rich products of
this fertilo region oro shipped to mnkeglad
the hearts nnd homes of less fortunate
climes.
Just a month nfter leaving San Francis
co, we arrived in tho ISay of Callao from
whence the not-far-distant towers of Limn
can easily bo seen. Tho harbor was well
filled with ships and steamers from differ
cut parts of tho world; thcro is n good
wharf, and altogether tho place is tho busi
est and resembles moro our own ports than
any I saw on tho voyage. As It is only a
half hour's ride by rail from Callao to Lima,
I had soon established mysolf in tho latter
placo, having successfully run tho longi
tude, nnd eagerly anticipating the pleas
ures which an old and historic country
nover fails to offer.
Tho reader must know that Lima was
founded by Pizarro on tho Oth of Jan., 1533
tho festival of Epiphany, in. honor of
which it was called "Clndad do los Reyes,"
or "'City of tho Kings." This nnino, how
ever, wa" soon superceded by that of Lima
into whiclr tho Spaniards corrupted tho
Indian word limine, tho namo given to the
river which Hows through tho rich and fer
tile plain sloping gontly from tho Cordil
leras to the sea. At tho date of the found
ing of the city, Peru had made her last
stand fo. liberty, tho armios of tho Inea
had been beaten and routed lrom tho Held;
Atahualpa himself, tho last representative
of tho "Children of tho Sun,'' hail been
treacherously put to death; Cuzeo had
submitted and her temples been despoiled
of their splendour in a wortl, tho vast and
poworful empire of tho lucas lay, broken
and dissolved, at tho feet of tho conqueror,
Pizarro.
Wearied with tbo terrible hardships of
exploration and tho fierce turmoil of war,
Pizarro'H fondest desire now was to beauti
fy and adorn tho rising young Capital of
tho empire he had conquered. Centrally
located In tho bosom of a verdant plain and
on thobnnks of tho broad river Illume somo
six miles above where It Hows Into the
oxcollent harbor of Callao, Pizarro had,
Indeed, reason to trust In tho futuro great
ness of tho city. Though only twelve miles
south of tho Equator, and though rain Is
nover known on tho coast of Peru, tho
climate Is delightful, for tho cool breezes
which blow throughout the year, either
from tho Pacific or from the opposite Cor
dilleras, and tho heavy dews which fall
nightly during tho summer season all
combining, so tomper tho cllmato that the
thermometer beldoni rises above ninety
degrees. So great was Pizarro'a zeal in
pushing forward his new Capital that be
fore his death he had the satisfaction of
seeing a largo and flourishing city, but the
wars that followed In the succeeding con
turles and tho still more destructive Bhocks
of earth-quakes have left but little trace of
the original buildings, in whoso ruins tho
present city has been built.
Eager to tee tho city that had for tho past
month so often occupied my thoughts, I
sallied forth early from my hotel and after
threading numerous narrow streets, found
myself In the large central plaza, in the
midst of which u sparkling fountain threw
up Jets of water which fell In bright drops
on the numerous (lowers that filled tho air
with fragrance, A broad stone walk leads
urouud the entire square, nlong which are
many seats, shaded from (he sun by the
reading brunches of stately trees; on one
of theno 1 sut down to study the scene
about me. Separated by a broad street, the
surrounding building, farm u square utnntt
(hu plana. To Ihu tuutliuml vl arise u
series of InilMing whose ujijiur stunts,
prnjectlu out oyer Hie side-sulk mu farm
illtf far fftt tnul, Are suppuitid by iimHu
sltinu Millies Tins iriu J'uifal, ur hruiiil
Jlon MariliPiJu J.Iidu uiuro ml iliu pmm
) shuns uinl stores urt fa be fuuiiil mi!
plu il)Mli wlit'UIIHhlett up p( (ill eyen I
Ing, It presents a brilliant scene of life nnd
gaity. The Municipal Hall, a very largo
one-story building made of stone, occupies
the cntlro northern end of the plaza. In
the midst of these worldly and temporal
things the great cathedral lifts its massive
towers unto the setting sun. Its architec
ture, belonging to no particular class, bears
the unmistakable stamp of the Jcsuitcs and
though much superior to many of the
churches erected by that order, docs not
possess a great deal of beauty either in out
line or execution,
As the great bells from tne towers rang,
forth their slow and measured chime mid
the ponderous doors swung slowly back on
their hinges, arising from my pleasant scat
I mndu my way to the entrance. Mount
ing tho massive (light of stone steps that
stretch across the whole front of the build
ing and crossing the broad pavement, I
passed from the sacred portal in beneath
the vaulted roof. Near the entrance arises
an altar decorated in tho usural Homau
Catholic manner: on either side is an aisle
running the whole length of tho church,
along which numerous altars are raised to
the saints and martyrs, and closed in by
high iron gratings. Near the centre of the
church are the scats for tho congregation,
beyond which arises the main altar, richly
decorated with ornaments of gold and sil
ver many of which udorncd some temple of
tho sun. The point of interest, however, is
the tomb of Pizarro which occupies the
space between thelirataltarandtheseatsfor
the congregation. It is closed in on three
sides by walls of a dark and sombre hue,
around which run a series of stiff, stately
looking seats; in the centre of tho apart
ment thus formed, the tomb, made of rich
ly carved wood, arises in tho form of a
pyramid some live or six feet in height.
Hero in the midst of the beautiful city
which lie so foituly cherished and which
was the pride of his declining years, the
great conqueror has found a fitting resting
place. Lingering in tho tomb musing over
the checkered career of him who found his
last rest here, I was startled from my rev
erio by the harsh grating of tho doors which
were being closed nfter the morning s-ervko
and rising hastily from my seat I was soon
threading tho narrow streets again.
The city I found to belaid out on a very
rcgulai plan. Tho streets, though not more
than fifty feet wide are regular andstraigth
crossing one another at right-angles; the
most' of them havo narrow stone sidewalks
on cither side, and, what is moro, are kept
unusually clean for a South A.merican city
The business houses, varying from two to
three stories in height, are built of various
materials, a kind of udobe made In imita
tion of stone being the most common.
There are no end of stores and shops and
one can buy almost anything they need.
In tho Portal I found n small shop where
thcro were some curious pieces of old sit
ver for sale. The proprietor wtio was a
Jew, showed me a teapot made in the shape
of a cow and some plates elegantly carved
in curious designs, which he claimed to be
the work of tho Inca Indians. Judging
from tho numerous shops on all the streets
tho tailors seem to flourish in Lima, this,
however is not difllcult to account for when
one observes the dress of tho Peruvian
gentlemen, the better class of whom aro
perfection in their attire from their glossy
beavors and spotless gloves to their shining
feot.
One particular in which Limn differs
greatly from our own cities, is that tho res
idences arc built almost exactly like the
business houses. All the dwelling-houses
are built immediately on the street having
no yards whatever except the interior court,
which in some ot tho liner nouses are
adorned with flowers and shrubs. In vain
do you look for tho pretty suburban res!
deuce with its neat lawns anil walks, so
common in our own country; niassivo
square houses, built ono against the other
with no attempt at beauty or architecture,
are all that can be seen. In all the more
pretentious houses, both business and resi
dence, a great deal of mu.rhlo is used in
decoration, indeed many of the street pave
ments, those or the Portal ana l'laza, uro
made of thu muiio material. Itcmg thus
compactly built, Lima, though said to con
tain over 100,000 Inhabitants, covers n re
markably small space of ground. It was
formally surrounded by an immense wall,
but some twenty years ago this was torn
down to give placo to a projected promen
ade and drive around tho city, which, how
ever, has never been completed.
Ono of the first things that strikes a
stranger while walking about the streets of
Lima is the great number of churches;
wherever you go, churches, churches of ail
sizes and styles of architecture from the
tiny chapel to the cathedral. The bells aro
ringing at all hours of tho day and monks
dressed in tho various garbs of the dillerent
orders, pass hither through thu Mreets,
Truly, iustetii' of "City of Kings," it merits
rather the name, "City of the Churches."
hi the soigti end of tho city is a pleasure
resort, quite similar to our parks, called
tho Exposition Grounds." The tall Iron
fence which surrounds the grounds Is
pierced by threo gateways made of stone
plastered over so that at a distance they
have the appearance of beautiful marble.
Tho main entrance, facing the north, is the
most elaborate, being elegantly carved and
surmounted by u statue of Liberty, Pas
sing through tho gatowuy, I found tho
placo adorned with flowers and shrubs of
various species and beautiful trees beneath
which numerous rustic seats invite the.
passer-by to repose In the delightful shade
of the overhanging branches. In the midst
of a long avenue of trees arises a graceful
pavilllon for the musicians. Not far dis
tant I noticed a white, octagon-shaped
building ornamented with many windows
of stained glass; this I found on Inquiry to
bo especially detgued for the President
and his suite. There Is near the center of
the park a lurge two story building whose
white walls, glimmering through the dark
green foliage of the trees, reminded one of
the fairy palme reml oflu Ihu stories of
early childhood, u js railed the "Palms do
l'.ipolnuu ' uud, (hough now empty, for
intllh wmlu'.nnl u fine luiuwiui Inn, dur
ing the lute wur Willi t'lille. H wasrltlvil of
Us luiilt'hls by thu I'hlliiips hu curried
away Hum ullm Hun u uifaril llieirovm nap.
iiai 'i hu )4rK Also columned, mi eiiiiivi
ummmo ylmli tlnmui hu sumo fule
JiiHu"MMIu 'pululs isuUrne I'Stllh'ii
nHqVniiy JiilHidi'd far fyblk viMi- uu
the national holidays ; to the right of this is
an open spaco where reposes a pretty artlll-
cial lagoon with a rustic bridge reaching
from the shore to c rocky mound in the
centre where there was formerly a sum-
mer house of some kind, but which was do-
stroyed in thu late war. It was here that
the ravuges committed by the soldiery dur
ing, the late war with Chile were first
broug"hr to my notice, but in my subse
quent rambles, I found that the whole city
bore evidences of the terrible pillage com
mitted at that time
The Peruvian, to
whom Lima is all that Paris is to the
Frenchman, with saddened countenance
points out these ravages to tho traveler,
and eagerly describes the former granduor
of tho city before its fairest flowers were
blighted by the envious men of Chile. On
hearing such accounts, my mind often re
verted to the fair capital at Ouzcd pillaged
of its glory by the avaricious hand of the
Spaniard, and I could not but think ihat
justico had in some measure been meted
out. Wandering thus aimlessly about, I
soon found myself at the extreme end of
thu grounds, near tho pavilion of tho keep
er, n light, graceful building havinga wind
ing staircase on cither side lending up to
thu second story; and, after taking a short
rest beneath thu shade of a hospitable tree,
I made my way slowly back to the gateway
In contrast to these haunts o pleasure, I
beheld on passing out of tho main entrance
tho grim Avails of thu opposite penitentiary
within which Sin and Crime wear out their
days in misery. All, was it placed here,
to incrcaso thu wretchedness of its inmates
by a constant view oflife and happiness 1
1 had been but a few days in Limn when
1 niado my first visit to the National -Library
and Art Gallery both of which oc
cupy the same large building not lar from
the pluza. As Peru is neither a rich or
stable government, these are both of very
modest proportions. Crossing the main
entrance and passing directly across a large
interior court yard, I entered a small vesti
bulu on the wull of which hangs the cele
brated painting of "The Funeral of Ata
hualpa, the last Inca of Peru.'' The picture
is a largo one, covering the whole side of
the yestibule. Tho moment chosen by the
artist for representation is that at which
the fuuerul services which are being per
formed over the body of Atahualpa aro
interrupted by his wives and sisters who
rush into the church and surround his
body, declaring their intention to sacrifice
themselves on his tomb according to the
custom of their country. The body of tho
dead monarch, dressed in rich robes of
many colors, lies on the funeral bier be
hind which stand two priests, one of
whom, with an expression of surprise and
annoyance on his face, is looking up from
the book from which he has been reading
the funeral service; tho other has turned
to remoinstrate with one of the women
who has thrown herself at his feet, her
long black hair falling about her shoulders,
her pale fuce raised to him with a look of
anguish and despair, and her hands out
stretched in a gesture of Lupplication and
entreaty. Near by a soldier has seized
another woman by the hair and is about to
drag her from the spot, while in the back
ground several other soldiers are convers
ing together. Conspicuous in tho fore
ground, near the head of the bier, stands
the figure of Pizarro dressed in mourning,
in whoso face and attitude are expressed
all that arrogance so characteristic of the
Spanish race. As often as I came to the
Art Gallery, I always, both in coming in
and going out, paused before this painting
to study the various groups and meditate
upon the historical events with which it is
connected.
Uoyond tho vestibule is a long reading
ing room to the right of which Is the main
library containing some twenty thousand
volumes, the most of which are Spanish
and French; the English department is
limited to Congressional Reports and llan
croft's History. Opening out of the library
on the rlglit side is a long room, on tho
floor and shelves of which are piled in a
heterogenous manner about two thousand
volumes, all torn, mutilated and ruined.
This ravage was committed by tho Chileno
soldiery who entered the libraiy while
drunken and destntyed whatever camo
within their reach. Kunning at right
angles with this room is tho Art Gallery,
tho lower end of which is entirely taken up
with pictures of the Peruvian Presidents.
Thu most interesting paintings in the gal
lery aro a portrait of Simon llollvar and
another of Pizarro, so dim witli age that
little besides the head and face can bo dis
tinguished. Tho other pictures aro mostly
portraits of tho saints and martyrs with
nothing striking in conception or execu
tion. Leaving tho Art Gallery and passing on
down tho street in an easterly direction,
one suddenly 'emerges on an open square
called "Tho Plaza do Inquisicion" from a
small building near by -in which tho Inqui
sition formerly held sway before Peru
threw off tho Spanish yoke. Theso same
walls that once re-echoed with the screams
and groans of the tortured, now resound
with the musical "clink, clink" of a cabinet
maker's hammer; and, In memory of their
liberation from the hated power of Spam,
the Peruvians have raised in the midst of
the square an equestrian statue of Simon
Bolivar, their liberator and national hero.
At a short distance from this plaza Is tho
Hull King, where on holidays tho beauty
and fashion ot the city resort to enjoy
their favorite sport, I had hoped to wit
ness a performance of tills national amuse
ment of Spain, but unfortunately during
my stay in Lima there were no fights in
tho ring.
Through tho right-hand side of Lima
runs the Itlver ltitnac which is crossed by
several bridges, ono of which Is built of
stone and is said to have been constructed
by Pizarro, at all events It Is very old, hut,
though several bridges have been put up
recently, it is still the best bridge across
the river Its architecture is excellent, and
seen (rum a distuiiuo its iiiusthe stone
Arches remind one ul Ihu pieturusque old
Itoiuuii bridge. During 1117 entire sluy In
the ellv, It mas one of my favorite resorts.
I would slttlierp far hours Hleiin Hid
rein llde of Iiuiiiuii life surging in and
fru. ul wnlii when Ilm iihvh vtldi ihu
iguiilifss wmIo(suis uruio wnd llo uly
lliyMm iihduriM4 rui iu imM in
the past, would call up the varied scones of
which that spot had boon a silon t witness,
j Sometime I pictured to myself the streets
', when on a gala day they were filled with a
! host of gallant cavaliers armed with sword
j and shield and mounted on fiery c.ibnllos;
I in the midst rode the great conqueror,
i Pizarro, around whose richly adorned per-
son (locked shorn monks and gallant
1 knights while all the time religious stand
i ards. mingling with the armorial banners
: of the proud Spanish nobles, floated gra'ce-
I fully In the breeze, nnd the din ol trumpets
filled the air. Again the scene would
change; I pictuted to myself the crowd,
tho noise, and confusion of that fatal day
when the assassinators of Pizarro rushed
madly from tho palace Into the streets with
their swords reeking in blood and crying
'The tyrant is deadl Long live tho King!''
Thus, like the waters beneath me, tho
changing current of my thoughts (lowed on
until the solemn tones of the distant town
clock reminded me of the lateness of the
hour.
Just beyond the bridge is a small, white
chapel alio said to have been built by
Pizarro, though there is no conclusive
proof that such is the case. If not built by
him, it must have been built near his time
for it is undoubtedly the oldest church
now standing In Lima; it Is now in a very
good state of repair, and Is still used as a
place of worship by the humbler classes.
At intervals throughout the day one may
see a swarthy Peruvian or a dark robed
woman enter the door, kneel silently for.a
lew moments, and depart. Uoyond the
church at some little distance is the "Grand
Promenade do Lima" a long walk en
closed by a tall iron fence and adorned on
cither side by (lowers and shrubbery, with
now and then a marble seat, or bench,
where one can rest and enjoy the long vista
stretching out before them. At regular
intervals there are marble statues of heroic
size which, if not above criticism when
examined closely, produce a very charming
efi'ect in the green shrubbery about them.
At the upper end of tho walk a beautiful
fountain dances and sparkles in the sun
light. Of an evening this is a favorite
resort for pleasure-seekers, and I often
camo thither to study the motley groups
assembled.
Close by the promenade, and to the
north-east of the city, rises a steep hill
about fifteen hundred feet high, called "Mt.
Christabel." During the war with Chile
some ten years ago, an ambitious Peruvian
General, imagining himself to bo a second
Napoleon, conceived the idea of building a
fort on this hill and making n road to lead
up to it; so pleased was he with his idea
that he forthwith sot about executing it.
The road was made, the fort built, and
well supplied with munitions of war, but
It happened that the citizens of Lima did
not exactly relish their General's plan for
they feared that, in case of attack by the
men of Chile, the cannon and shells from
the fort would destroy the city. A band of
citizens, therefore, secretly entered the
fort and destroyed all the guns so that the
redoubtable Napoleon was compelled to
evacuate his wonderful fort which stands
there today, an emblem of his folly.
One morning I sallied forth from my
hotel to climb the hill to the fort. The sun
had just risen, and all the earth was re
freshed with the heavy dew that had fallen
during the night; the church bells were
chiming sweetly, and now and then as I
passed along the streets the voices of the
monks chanting tho early mass in some
neighboring church tloated out upon the
morning air. As thu road wound round
and round the hill, tho ascent was easy.
At every step the view below me grew more
and more beautiful until on reaching the
top the whole vallc.'-'Jsin verdure, the
lliniao winding its dofou's course to the
sea, the city with Its numerous towers,
and beyond all the great ocean, lay
stretched out before 1110 In one grand pano
ruiiuu It was. indeed, a beautiful sight a
sight not soon to be forgotten.
Sitting hero one evening gazing down on
the towers of Lima, and enjoying the de
lightful prospect that on every side spread
around me, I fell to musing over the sad
fate of the "Children of the Situ" who once
held their patriarchal sway over the rich
and vordant plain spread out beneath me.
Histqry may nlford annals more splendid,
but 110110 more curious and singular in its
features than the domination of the Incas
In Peru. This reinarkablo people, whoso
origin in shrouded in the same obscurity
that has settled about all tho American
races, at an early period established thom
selves in the elevated region of Peru, and
began their struggle to emerge from bar
barism. They gradually ovorcame all
thoso natural impediments which a wild
and mountainous country oiler both to
agriculturo and intercommunication; by
a wonderful system of aqueducts and ter
races they made even the desert and gran
ite sides of the mountain to blossom like
tho rose; and by a still more wonderful
system of roads and bridges, every part of
the kingdom was placed In communication
with the central capital, Cuzco. Agricul
ture was the basis of their political institu
tions and probably n race ever obtained a
greater dominion over tho eart. Having
no commerce or money, their laws were
few and simple, but-amply sufficient to
secure to the people peace, order and tran
quility in an age characterized by violence
and rapine. Their religion the worship of
that divine luminary, tho sun approaches
nearer a spiritual faith than any other
form of superstition, for the heavenly
bodies as they reyolve in their bright orbits
aro the most glorious representation of the
beneficence nnd power ol tho Creator.
Their religious rites were never dlsgracod
by those terrible human sacrifices known to
many barbarous nations, The people led
a simple, pastoral life under the mild sway
of tho Inoas whom they reverenced, not
only as their temporal ruler, hut as the
oilsprlug of that glorious orb from which
I hey belie nd ill things to have their being.
Nu nionareh t vr exercised such uhjlulo
noiiirol wtwr u ptiuple. Jlutury affords nu
parallel to it. Ifa uasuul only Hie being
(ruin vvhfah miiausiiwl till luw and pownr,
ph)lel nnd tuiuw, blithe was dlvijil
I) Ilst4f, lU VtuMltf W1V lIltflllMl unit
iiunw was taulhue The brnui) of iliu
jiii us tiAsuDiy civieiicd by ilmir MldiiM
' WOW l"H'J ( rUnlln' llttwuhlrilliir
n fq n nftpn the custom with Jemt-clviHf (
nations, thev fought to tiring Under the!
swav as irieniii, uh-iuuj au;ii,"vmiiir 11111
extending the irnnticr of their kingdom
runs ov a wisu aim iuuiu-uh- uu 1 v 10
wards both friends anil uk-i, tli" inrasiini
. f .1.-(-.... .:.!. nVS
nt MC UmC Ul IIIU Cliuuir" iinaamii, . tJ
ished a rich and powenui cmpim ixt'iu
! f Pnlnlirtvl 1 1 till, lllllltfi tt I It l
.111 nmmro t int vaiiisjiuu 111 .1 muni, as
were, beneath the avaricious nainis of P
. .
ynrrn mill ma luuiti-jaa luiiunt.o. .ii:L'
1 1.... t.lA. fM1n.i,,. IT-
on by an insatiable love of gold the Span
iards spread want and desolation oyer tb
fertile fields and terraced mountain side
that covered the whole face of ie country
ttwi imnnln ntialnvnil nnd hunted clow,
fled to the fastnesses ol the mountain
where only n few of tho pure Inca bloo
now survive. Seldom has the destructio
of a race been more complete. A few ol
forts whoso walls hayo defied the rayagt
nf ,.,n. frnrrniniitq nf rnntN mil untlcvltlrt
W X null,, A . b 1 1
which oven now excite the wondeij am
admiration of the traveler; catacVtub
1 1.1 .1... .Inn.ll l.
UIJ'.U IIIILU 1,11,1 lliu,i,,.m.v ..w .
rifled of their contents these arc all! tin'
now remain to tell tho story of the doAj
lion 01 me incas 111 xuu. i
What a contrast does Pizarro's bindd
adventuiers present to that sturdy, frug
band of pilgrims that peopled tho easteri
. . , ... . ...
ny who fifs
"Through wila,"irimc,
Illazcd out new wuvs for vX5ds to conu
And murmured not; but bravely dum
So died, full trusting God and time!
I Ul U III I IlllllUkl tills H1VI IIUVIUII.1
they stand today, we vill sec that ea
1 . t t 11. r t a it..
kind. The Peruvian still retains that v
longed to the early Spanish eharactt
which in tho time of tho Incas teemed wi
agricultural wealth, is llow in loo 111a
uLinnu ii-'ictnrl fillfl flnciffp1? Mtld Willi
say when it shall remn its former uu
. . .... it ....!,. .1 .
r 1 1 -
is fast sinking into thu ocean and light!
in, tup mnm uuiuw lis wilii ihu itisnit
"i 1 .
uiyice 01 us parting rays, 11; ua iuku a ia
wull Ul jjiiuu ui i....., i.iv, viij m -
Kings, once "tne laircst, gem on tne sTiO!
of the Pacific."
JONES BROS.
THE
Desire to Inform the nubile that they liavij
oDcncd their iritllerv in Union and are now I
ter prepared than ever to do anything in I 1
Htm ftftin ttis tirrn I i r
Postage Stamp nnd Minette l'icturl
nnd other Into nnd nttrnctive styles up toj
Iiife Sized Portraits j
In Crnyon, Water Color or Oil.
Our Cnrncnturu Photographs
Are too funny for anything nnd must be set'
to be appreciated.
fli.t.tifi,. SrnnMB.
Tnkeu of farms, residences, mills-, lifrfM.
main, ut., of any size und tlnlshed in any s I
Also
Inside Views.
Of residences, business houses, churches,
He buildings, olllces, conservatories, etc
We use only the latest und '
Most Improved Processes,
Known to Photography nnd Invite coiniini
with the best work of eminent artists.
Our Guarantee. J
To those entrusting work to us, of nny l
from thn oriltnnrv liriinphcK nf iihotnirrnnlV
life-sized portraiture, we guarantee thut
worK snnu ue equal to inc oesi wor prou
in nny city on tho Pacific coast. This l 1
anteclnir a erent ileal, but we mean every
of It. If we fail, patrons need have no hi.
timi iihnnt Infm-nitm- iih nf thn fiipt and r ' .
ing to accept the work. If you want pic j
Now is tliu Time I
To get them, and UNION the place. We I
mulii hero during the winter months, j
Never .Hind the Weather.
Tl,,..w ...... l. ..!..... .... ...nil t.. .. tf Llr
1 iv.iiui;a 11111 uv vunwii lin null ill ft riii'.. nm .
... . 1 At ml. - 1 .1... I
uouuis nuout mis we reier to our
guarantee above.
Be Goyb Milt
JASPER G. STEVENS, Propr.
-IlBAI.r.K IX-
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1
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Consisting or
Rifles, Shotguns,
and Cartridge
Imported ' and Domestic Ci
School Books. Etc.
ORBGO
STATE SCHOOL.JOURN
Is the official organ of the Utato Depart
I'ubllo Inatructton. Tbo JOURNAL
monthly magazine devoted to School hi
Education; therefore, it li ludlnpenn
teachera, and Invaluable to (rleuU ol ts
In general,
Prieo $1.00 per Ainu
Five or more copied 60 rent each naif
10 ccuu.
Adilre ) II IIOItSKlt.rroi'i
VAlUiiv.
I 1
ASCENSION :-: SGH
A lliwnlln ami iM tM-iff-i r i t
UhIuii ('.mill), Oiugiii
HCIIT II M II. WIIH Muimi I' ' vi.
und Vullxr ff
Hv am in to K-r
Tliu ni'il uiim) nt Iliu Nl 'Jt
iMii(u")lici n, Hi)l
t
r
FIOMRiFHL
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