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About Capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1919-1980 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 21, 1954)
Page B SECTION III THE CAPITAL JOURNAL. Salem, Oreenn ThurKday. Oclnher 21, 19M Secrets of Fine Fish Cookery Told Gumdrop Cookies Children's Favorites 1 ' Tp3j Cookbook Author, James A. Beard prepare fish in foil , , , no muM and fusa, but full of flavor. By CECIL BROWNSTONE (AP NcwsfeaturesJ Fish dfiservcs a rich fate. To make lure It gets its due, a man who knows as much about fine fond as anyone in this country has written the best guide Amer Irani have yet had to this subject. "James A. Beard's Fish Cook ery" Kittle Brown) Is an ac count of citizens of surf and stream their distinguishing char acteristics and the most succulent ways of preparing them. Our sis ter, not known for her piscator ial addiction, Insisted on reading the book over our shoulder refus ing to be shooed away because "Jim Beard makes fish fascinat ing!" Brought up near Astoria, Ore., the center of the Columbia river fishing industry, Jim Beard was! early inducted into the art of fish j cookery. Throughout his life, he; has marketed, cooked and eaten,' his way around the United States and other countries. Wherever he goes nosing his way through . Washington Market in New York 1 City or Les Dalles in Paris, exper imenting in a Pasadena kitchen or one in Connecticuthe observes, tastes, discriminates, and conies up with recommendations that are both sensible and sensitive, lie can appreciate the "combined flavors of wood smoke, bacon and rirlicnto trout as outdoor simpli-j rny wonts nurucies an wen ax thn skill of a French chef as he recalls "with drooling tastebuds the incomparable truite en che mise at the station restaurant in the Gar de 1'Kst in Paris." Most of Jim Beard's cooking is done in his New York City apart ment. Friends asked to dine sit around a large round marble-topped table savoring, appreciating, lingering, while wonderful dishes come out of his kitchen. i "If you live far from the fresh! supply," Beard says, "or if you , have your heart set on a fish that , is not at the height of the season, . the frozen product can solve youri prnhlem with little or no sacrifice in flavor or texture." When we j caviled with him about this state-1 mrnt, he reminded us of the su-' perb frozen King crab from Alas ka and the remarkable frozen trnut from Denmark, and we had to accede the point. j A general discussion of prep- j srnlinn methods prefaces "Fish, Cookery." There are fine direc tions for the fish bouillons and essences used in many fish dishes. Sauces and stuffings, fish stews, chowders and soups have their own sections. Varieties of fish are treated in alphabetical order. Seafood enthusiasts will treasure the ideas for shrimp, scallops, oysters, mussels, lobster and' crab. There is also a section on Terrestrial Animals Prepared Like Fish frogs legs, snails, tur tle, tortoise and terrapin. A wide variety of recipes en hances this book: from many ways of preparing the homely salt cod a favorite of the author's to the bmiillabnises of Southern France and the Zuppa Di Pesce of Italy. We were delighted to find directions for treating fillets and small fish "en papilloltes" as the French do, for this method of cooking fish in parchment paper assures superb texture and fla vor. Parchment paper is some times hard to come by; in New York City, some fine fish markets use the paper with which to wrap their fish and will sell some of the sheets to customers. But, as Mr. Beard suggests, aluminum foil is also suitable for "en pa pil lule" cooking. When we prepared the follow ing beard recipes, one of our tasters remarked that the fish was so good she could barely resist eating the paper! If you can't get butterfish for use in the first recipe, use any small fish weighing about 4 pound, avail able at your market. For the an chovy butter, blend anchovy paste (it comes in tubes) with butter. Butterfish en Papillotte Ingredients: Butterfish (1 per serving), cooking parchment, ham slices (1 per serving), anchovy butter, grated onion, butter, salt, pepper, thick tomato puree, chop ped parsley. Method: Cut heart-shaped pieces of conking parchment big enough to accommodate the fish. On each piece of parchment, place A slice of ham near one edge. Spread it with anchovy butter, and a little grated onion. Top with a butterfish, dot with but ter, season wilh.sall and pepper, add a teaspoon of tomato puree, and sprinkle with chopped pars ley. Kohl the other side of the parchment over this, crimp the edges together so they arc tightly Light-as-lace . . . fresh . . . fragrant. . . QUICKEST home-made bread ever with UNGE'S NEW, NEVER-FAIL BREAD IY1EX No muss .no fuss! Just add water! Only about 1U minutes actual u urk i n time for uitr own eriMtyreh liome-iiiade hrt-atl, filled hh obl-fahiftuetl poodncM and ll.nur! Jutt add w ilirr in i .nil u nrw mi , , . Mir, f Mir.ii!. initr. F.ven a liruiniter run him nut wonderful hrrttt rvrry time llie quirk IIO-MAin way. More miiri. timi, rronnniiral, loo! f'nr golflrn-giutft WHITE m WHEAT loaves, rolls, buns, AT YOUR GROCER'S sealed. Bake at 425 degrees until the paper is brown and puffy 20 to 25 minutes. Jim Beard's Foil Fillets Ingredients: Sole fillets (about pound for each serving), aluminum foil, prepared yellow mustard, small or medium-sized mushrooms (about Vi pound for each serving), salt and pepper, butter, parsley sprigs. Method: Cut hear t-shaped pieces of aluminum foil big enough to accommodate the fil lets. On each piece of foil, place a fillet near the edge; spread fish with mustard. Cut mushrooms in to lengthwise slices, through crown and stem, and arrange on ' fish. Sprinkle with salt and pep-1 I per. Dot with butter and parsley I sprigs. Fold the other side of : the foil over this, crimp the edges i together so they are tiehtly seal-i ed. Bake at 425 degrees 12 to 15 minutes. AMBKK CHKAM I As a garnish for your favorite i upside down cake, try amber whipped cream made by combining I h cup heavy cream, cup firmly packed dark brown sugar and teaspoon vanilla. Chill mixture for an hour, then beat until it holds its shape. Children especially like these gumdrop cookies. Father and any and all guests will also enjoy them. These would make a fine Saturday project for teen-age daughter. Gumdrop Cookies lrt cup margarine or butler H cup white sugar i cup brown sugar 1 egg 1 teaspoon vanilla l1? cups sifted flour 'a teaspoon soda Vi teaspoon baking powder V teaspoon salt V teaspoon grated coconut Vi cup chopped gumdrops Cream margarine or butter and j sugars until lighL Add egg and I vanilla and beat until fluffy. Sift flour with soda, baking powder i and salt. Sprinkle coconut and j gumdrops with Vi cup of the flour mixture. Add remaining I flour mixture to butter mixture and beat until blended. Stir in gumdrop mixture. Break off small pieces of dough and roll into, balls about 1 inch in diameter. Place on greased cookie sheets; flatten with fork leaving fork tine marks. Bake in moderate oven, 350 degrees, 8 to 10 minutes. Makes about 2 dozen delicious cookies. . W, f Amnn ' I shortening and blend in 4 cup Nutmeg Lemon lang ;sifted confectioncrs. sugar, i tea. Ground nutmeg teams up flav ! spoon ground nutmeg, 4 to 'i or -perfect with lemon in this easy ! cup fresh lemon juice and 1 table cake icing. Just cream li cup soft spoon grated lemon rind. Pan Ready All Sizes FRYERS -55' Pick One Out for Sundoy Hoffman Meats Inc. 150 N. Commercial ' Solem Ph. 3-5563 . ..i.i i it J air, iimii trow - Morning Milk 3 for 39 ALBERS FLAPJACK FLOUR 2y2-ib. Pkg. 37 REMEMBER . . . 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