Page B SECTION III
THE CAPITAL JOURNAL. Salem, Oreenn
ThurKday. Oclnher 21, 19M
Secrets of Fine Fish Cookery Told
Gumdrop Cookies Children's Favorites
1 ' Tp3j
Cookbook Author, James A. Beard prepare fish in foil , , ,
no muM and fusa, but full of flavor.
By CECIL BROWNSTONE
(AP NcwsfeaturesJ
Fish dfiservcs a rich fate. To
make lure It gets its due, a man
who knows as much about fine
fond as anyone in this country
has written the best guide Amer
Irani have yet had to this subject.
"James A. Beard's Fish Cook
ery" Kittle Brown) Is an ac
count of citizens of surf and
stream their distinguishing char
acteristics and the most succulent
ways of preparing them. Our sis
ter, not known for her piscator
ial addiction, Insisted on reading
the book over our shoulder refus
ing to be shooed away because
"Jim Beard makes fish fascinat
ing!" Brought up near Astoria, Ore.,
the center of the Columbia river
fishing industry, Jim Beard was!
early inducted into the art of fish j
cookery. Throughout his life, he;
has marketed, cooked and eaten,'
his way around the United States
and other countries. Wherever
he goes nosing his way through
. Washington Market in New York
1 City or Les Dalles in Paris, exper
imenting in a Pasadena kitchen or
one in Connecticuthe observes,
tastes, discriminates, and conies
up with recommendations that
are both sensible and sensitive,
lie can appreciate the "combined
flavors of wood smoke, bacon and
rirlicnto trout as outdoor simpli-j
rny wonts nurucies an wen ax
thn skill of a French chef as he
recalls "with drooling tastebuds
the incomparable truite en che
mise at the station restaurant in
the Gar de 1'Kst in Paris."
Most of Jim Beard's cooking is
done in his New York City apart
ment. Friends asked to dine sit
around a large round marble-topped
table savoring, appreciating,
lingering, while wonderful dishes
come out of his kitchen. i
"If you live far from the fresh!
supply," Beard says, "or if you ,
have your heart set on a fish that ,
is not at the height of the season, .
the frozen product can solve youri
prnhlem with little or no sacrifice
in flavor or texture." When we j
caviled with him about this state-1
mrnt, he reminded us of the su-'
perb frozen King crab from Alas
ka and the remarkable frozen
trnut from Denmark, and we had
to accede the point. j
A general discussion of prep- j
srnlinn methods prefaces "Fish,
Cookery." There are fine direc
tions for the fish bouillons and
essences used in many fish dishes.
Sauces and stuffings, fish stews,
chowders and soups have their
own sections. Varieties of fish
are treated in alphabetical order.
Seafood enthusiasts will treasure
the ideas for shrimp, scallops,
oysters, mussels, lobster and'
crab. There is also a section on
Terrestrial Animals Prepared
Like Fish frogs legs, snails, tur
tle, tortoise and terrapin.
A wide variety of recipes en
hances this book: from many
ways of preparing the homely salt
cod a favorite of the author's
to the bmiillabnises of Southern
France and the Zuppa Di Pesce
of Italy. We were delighted to
find directions for treating fillets
and small fish "en papilloltes" as
the French do, for this method of
cooking fish in parchment paper
assures superb texture and fla
vor. Parchment paper is some
times hard to come by; in New
York City, some fine fish markets
use the paper with which to wrap
their fish and will sell some of
the sheets to customers. But, as
Mr. Beard suggests, aluminum
foil is also suitable for "en pa pil
lule" cooking.
When we prepared the follow
ing beard recipes, one of our
tasters remarked that the fish
was so good she could barely
resist eating the paper! If you
can't get butterfish for use in the
first recipe, use any small fish
weighing about 4 pound, avail
able at your market. For the an
chovy butter, blend anchovy paste
(it comes in tubes) with butter.
Butterfish en Papillotte
Ingredients: Butterfish (1 per
serving), cooking parchment, ham
slices (1 per serving), anchovy
butter, grated onion, butter, salt,
pepper, thick tomato puree, chop
ped parsley.
Method: Cut heart-shaped
pieces of conking parchment big
enough to accommodate the fish.
On each piece of parchment, place
A slice of ham near one edge.
Spread it with anchovy butter,
and a little grated onion. Top
with a butterfish, dot with but
ter, season wilh.sall and pepper,
add a teaspoon of tomato puree,
and sprinkle with chopped pars
ley. Kohl the other side of the
parchment over this, crimp the
edges together so they arc tightly
Light-as-lace . . . fresh . . . fragrant. . .
QUICKEST
home-made bread ever with
UNGE'S NEW, NEVER-FAIL
BREAD
IY1EX
No muss .no fuss!
Just add water!
Only about 1U minutes actual u urk i n time for uitr
own eriMtyreh liome-iiiade hrt-atl, filled hh
obl-fahiftuetl poodncM and ll.nur! Jutt add
w ilirr in i .nil u nrw mi , , . Mir, f
Mir.ii!. initr. F.ven a liruiniter
run him nut wonderful
hrrttt rvrry time llie quirk
IIO-MAin way. More miiri.
timi, rronnniiral, loo!
f'nr golflrn-giutft
WHITE m WHEAT
loaves, rolls, buns,
AT YOUR
GROCER'S
sealed. Bake at 425 degrees until
the paper is brown and puffy
20 to 25 minutes.
Jim Beard's Foil Fillets
Ingredients: Sole fillets (about
pound for each serving),
aluminum foil, prepared yellow
mustard, small or medium-sized
mushrooms (about Vi pound for
each serving), salt and pepper,
butter, parsley sprigs.
Method: Cut hear t-shaped
pieces of aluminum foil big
enough to accommodate the fil
lets. On each piece of foil, place
a fillet near the edge; spread fish
with mustard. Cut mushrooms in
to lengthwise slices, through
crown and stem, and arrange on '
fish. Sprinkle with salt and pep-1
I per. Dot with butter and parsley
I sprigs. Fold the other side of :
the foil over this, crimp the edges i
together so they are tiehtly seal-i
ed. Bake at 425 degrees 12 to
15 minutes.
AMBKK CHKAM
I As a garnish for your favorite
i upside down cake, try amber
whipped cream made by combining
I h cup heavy cream, cup firmly
packed dark brown sugar and
teaspoon vanilla. Chill mixture for
an hour, then beat until it holds
its shape.
Children especially like these
gumdrop cookies. Father and
any and all guests will also enjoy
them. These would make a fine
Saturday project for teen-age
daughter.
Gumdrop Cookies
lrt cup margarine or butler
H cup white sugar
i cup brown sugar
1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla
l1? cups sifted flour
'a teaspoon soda
Vi teaspoon baking powder
V teaspoon salt
V teaspoon grated coconut
Vi cup chopped gumdrops
Cream margarine or butter and
j sugars until lighL Add egg and I
vanilla and beat until fluffy. Sift
flour with soda, baking powder
i and salt. Sprinkle coconut and
j gumdrops with Vi cup of the
flour mixture. Add remaining
I flour mixture to butter mixture
and beat until blended. Stir in
gumdrop mixture.
Break off small pieces of dough
and roll into, balls about 1 inch
in diameter. Place on greased
cookie sheets; flatten with fork
leaving fork tine marks. Bake in
moderate oven, 350 degrees, 8 to
10 minutes. Makes about 2 dozen
delicious cookies. .
W, f Amnn ' I shortening and blend in 4 cup
Nutmeg Lemon lang ;sifted confectioncrs. sugar, i tea.
Ground nutmeg teams up flav ! spoon ground nutmeg, 4 to 'i
or -perfect with lemon in this easy ! cup fresh lemon juice and 1 table
cake icing. Just cream li cup soft spoon grated lemon rind.
Pan Ready All Sizes
FRYERS -55'
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. ..i.i i it J
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37
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