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Page 4C EAT, DRINK, EXPLORE East Oregonian Saturday, October 13, 2018 Got a yen for fish? AP Photos/Eugene Hoshiko A worker cuts a fresh tuna with an edged tool at a wholesale shop at newly opened Toyosu Market, in Tokyo on Thursday. Below, a prospective buyer looks at fro- zen tunas during the first auction at the newly opened Toyosu Market. Tokyo’s famous fish market reopened Thursday at a new location but with an old tradition: the tuna auction. Below left, buyers bid during the first auction at the newly opened fruit and vegetable wholesale part of Toyosu Market, in Tokyo on Thursday. New Tokyo fish market opens with tuna auction By YURI KAGEYAMA AP Business Writer TOKYO — Tokyo’s famous fish market reopened Thursday at a new location but retained its most famous tradition: the tuna auction. The customary clanging of bells opened the auction for raw and frozen tuna, which crammed the huge warehouse wall-to-wall, at the waterfront Toyosu facility. The rhythmical shouts of the auc- tioneers and the special hand sig- nals by the bidders that followed were unchanged from Tsukiji, the smaller, more accessible home the market recently left after more than eight decades. The top bid for tuna, a deli- cacy much like premium-grade beef in Japan, was 4.28 million yen ($38,000), not an unusually high price for quality tuna. The more than 400 kinds of seafood at the market come from all over Japan, as well as from abroad, including octopus, eel, sea urchin and other items spe- cial to Japanese cuisine. The market serves top restau- rants and everyday supermarkets alike. The move was delayed for two years because of worries about contamination, including arsenic, at the Toyosu site. Mea- sures were taken to ensure safety, such as better water pumps and extra concrete sealing. Tokyo Gov. Yuriko Koike attended the opening and expressed hopes for the loca- tion’s success. “Of course, things are differ- ent here,” she said of how the new place may take getting used to. “We must build the Toyosu brand, day by day, to make it a symbol of Tokyo, and of Japan. I hope to move forward with all of you.” Officials and workers then clapped in celebration of Toyo- su’s opening, the same custom- ary gesture for good luck that had closed Tsukiji on Oct. 6. Free tours for the public start Saturday, including seeing the auction from a huge glass win- dow. Visitors will not be able to go on the auction floor as they could at Tsukiji. Reporters got a tour of the grounds Thursday. Like Tsukiji, Toyosu also has a vegetable wholesale area, where auctions also take place. In several spots in the same mar- ket complex are tiny restaurants, including the ones that used to be at Tsukiji but also new ones. Still, much of the humbly quaint atmosphere of Tsukiji was gone in the sterile factory-like environment of Toyosu. Whether Toyosu can attract tourist traffic remains to be seen. Serving as reminders were the people zipping around in their scooting carts, as busy as ever. Toyosu is a bit farther to get to than Tsukiji, which is within walking distance of downtown Ginza. Toyosu is reachable by an unmanned monorail called Yuri- kamome. A walkway from Shi- jo-mae station, which means “in front of the market,” leads right to the Toyosu market. About 40,000 people used to visit Tsukiji each day, not just retailers and restaurant operators but also “salarymen” on lunch breaks and tourists from all over the world. It’s unclear whether the stalls serving noodles and raw-tuna bowls that remain in the area sur- rounding Tsukiji will continue to be a draw without the backdrop of a real market. Many fish wholesalers, work- ers and supporters had opposed the move out of Tsukiji, alleg- ing that Toyosu was inefficient and unsafe. A handful of busi- nesses were continuing to sell inside Tsukiji, saying they hoped to fight the planned tearing down of the old construction. Tsukiji is being turned into a parking lot for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN Make a buttery crumb cake with a lightly spiced topping The essence of crumb cake is the balance between the buttery cake and the thick, lightly spiced topping. Starting with our favorite yellow cake recipe, we real- ized we needed to reduce the amount of butter or the rich- ness would be overwhelming. We also wanted our crumb topping to be soft and cookie-like, not a crunchy streusel. Don’t be tempted to substitute all-purpose flour for the cake flour, as doing so will make a dry, tough cake. If you don’t have buttermilk, you can substitute an equal amount of plain low-fat yogurt. Take care to not push the crumbs into the batter. This rec- ipe can be doubled and baked in a 13-by-9-inch pan. If dou- bling, increase the baking time to about 45 minutes. We did not like the result when we froze this cake. NEW YORK-STYLE CRUMB CAKE Servings: 8-10 Start to finish: 1 hour, 15 minutes (Active time: 30 minutes) Crumb Topping: 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1/3 cup (2 1/3 ounces) granulated sugar 1/3 cup packed (2 1/3 ounces) dark brown sugar 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon salt 1 3/4 cups (7 ounces) cake flour Cake: 1 1/4 cups (5 ounces) cake flour 1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) granulated sugar 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces and softened 1/3 cup buttermilk 1 large egg plus 1 large yolk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Confectioners’ sugar Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 325 F. Cut 16-inch length of parchment paper (or alumi- num foil) and fold lengthwise to 7-inch width. Spray 8-inch square baking pan with vegetable oil spray and fit parch- ment into pan, pushing it up sides; allow excess to hang over edges of pan. For the crumb topping: Whisk melted butter, granu- lated sugar, brown sugar, cinnamon, and salt together in medium bowl to combine. Add flour and stir with rubber spatula or wooden spoon until mixture resembles thick, cohesive dough; set aside to cool to room temperature, 10 to 15 minutes. For the cake: Using stand mixer fitted with paddle, mix flour, granulated sugar, baking soda, and salt on low speed to combine. With mixer running, add softened but- ter 1 piece at a time. Continue beating until mixture resem- bles moist crumbs, with no visible butter chunks remaining, 1 to 2 minutes. Add buttermilk, egg and yolk, and vanilla and beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 1 minute, scraping down bowl as needed. Transfer batter to prepared pan. Using rubber spatula, spread batter into even layer. Break apart crumb topping into large pea-size pieces and spread in even layer over bat- ter, beginning with edges and then working toward center. Bake until crumbs are golden and toothpick inserted in center of cake comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking. Let cool on wire rack for at least 30 minutes. Remove cake from pan by lifting parch- ment overhang. Dust with confectioners’ sugar just before serving. Daniel J. van Ackere/America’s Test Kitchen via AP New York-style crumb cake.
