Page 4C
EAT, DRINK, EXPLORE
East Oregonian
Saturday, October 13, 2018
Got a yen for fish?
AP Photos/Eugene Hoshiko
A worker cuts a fresh tuna with an edged tool at a wholesale shop at newly opened Toyosu Market, in Tokyo on Thursday. Below, a prospective buyer looks at fro-
zen tunas during the first auction at the newly opened Toyosu Market. Tokyo’s famous fish market reopened Thursday at a new location but with an old tradition:
the tuna auction. Below left, buyers bid during the first auction at the newly opened fruit and vegetable wholesale part of Toyosu Market, in Tokyo on Thursday.
New Tokyo fish market opens with tuna auction
By YURI KAGEYAMA
AP Business Writer
TOKYO — Tokyo’s famous
fish market reopened Thursday
at a new location but retained its
most famous tradition: the tuna
auction.
The customary clanging of
bells opened the auction for raw
and frozen tuna, which crammed
the huge warehouse wall-to-wall,
at the waterfront Toyosu facility.
The rhythmical shouts of the auc-
tioneers and the special hand sig-
nals by the bidders that followed
were unchanged from Tsukiji,
the smaller, more accessible
home the market recently left
after more than eight decades.
The top bid for tuna, a deli-
cacy much like premium-grade
beef in Japan, was 4.28 million
yen ($38,000), not an unusually
high price for quality tuna.
The more than 400 kinds of
seafood at the market come from
all over Japan, as well as from
abroad, including octopus, eel,
sea urchin and other items spe-
cial to Japanese cuisine.
The market serves top restau-
rants and everyday supermarkets
alike. The move was delayed for
two years because of worries
about contamination, including
arsenic, at the Toyosu site. Mea-
sures were taken to ensure safety,
such as better water pumps and
extra concrete sealing.
Tokyo Gov. Yuriko Koike
attended the opening and
expressed hopes for the loca-
tion’s success.
“Of course, things are differ-
ent here,” she said of how the
new place may take getting used
to. “We must build the Toyosu
brand, day by day, to make it a
symbol of Tokyo, and of Japan.
I hope to move forward with all
of you.”
Officials and workers then
clapped in celebration of Toyo-
su’s opening, the same custom-
ary gesture for good luck that had
closed Tsukiji on Oct. 6.
Free tours for the public start
Saturday, including seeing the
auction from a huge glass win-
dow. Visitors will not be able to
go on the auction floor as they
could at Tsukiji. Reporters got a
tour of the grounds Thursday.
Like Tsukiji, Toyosu also
has a vegetable wholesale area,
where auctions also take place.
In several spots in the same mar-
ket complex are tiny restaurants,
including the ones that used to be
at Tsukiji but also new ones.
Still, much of the humbly
quaint atmosphere of Tsukiji was
gone in the sterile factory-like
environment of Toyosu. Whether
Toyosu can attract tourist traffic
remains to be seen.
Serving as reminders were the
people zipping around in their
scooting carts, as busy as ever.
Toyosu is a bit farther to get
to than Tsukiji, which is within
walking distance of downtown
Ginza. Toyosu is reachable by an
unmanned monorail called Yuri-
kamome. A walkway from Shi-
jo-mae station, which means “in
front of the market,” leads right
to the Toyosu market.
About 40,000 people used to
visit Tsukiji each day, not just
retailers and restaurant operators
but also “salarymen” on lunch
breaks and tourists from all over
the world.
It’s unclear whether the stalls
serving noodles and raw-tuna
bowls that remain in the area sur-
rounding Tsukiji will continue to
be a draw without the backdrop
of a real market.
Many fish wholesalers, work-
ers and supporters had opposed
the move out of Tsukiji, alleg-
ing that Toyosu was inefficient
and unsafe. A handful of busi-
nesses were continuing to sell
inside Tsukiji, saying they hoped
to fight the planned tearing down
of the old construction.
Tsukiji is being turned into a
parking lot for the 2020 Tokyo
Olympics.
AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN
Make a buttery crumb cake with a lightly spiced topping
The essence of crumb cake is the balance between the
buttery cake and the thick, lightly spiced topping.
Starting with our favorite yellow cake recipe, we real-
ized we needed to reduce the amount of butter or the rich-
ness would be overwhelming. We also wanted our crumb
topping to be soft and cookie-like, not a crunchy streusel.
Don’t be tempted to substitute all-purpose flour for the
cake flour, as doing so will make a dry, tough cake. If you
don’t have buttermilk, you can substitute an equal amount
of plain low-fat yogurt.
Take care to not push the crumbs into the batter. This rec-
ipe can be doubled and baked in a 13-by-9-inch pan. If dou-
bling, increase the baking time to about 45 minutes. We did
not like the result when we froze this cake.
NEW YORK-STYLE CRUMB CAKE
Servings: 8-10
Start to finish: 1 hour, 15 minutes (Active time: 30
minutes)
Crumb Topping:
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1/3 cup (2 1/3 ounces) granulated sugar
1/3 cup packed (2 1/3 ounces) dark brown sugar
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 3/4 cups (7 ounces) cake flour
Cake:
1 1/4 cups (5 ounces) cake flour
1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces and
softened
1/3 cup buttermilk
1 large egg plus 1 large yolk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Confectioners’ sugar
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven
to 325 F. Cut 16-inch length of parchment paper (or alumi-
num foil) and fold lengthwise to 7-inch width. Spray 8-inch
square baking pan with vegetable oil spray and fit parch-
ment into pan, pushing it up sides; allow excess to hang
over edges of pan.
For the crumb topping: Whisk melted butter, granu-
lated sugar, brown sugar, cinnamon, and salt together in
medium bowl to combine. Add flour and stir with rubber
spatula or wooden spoon until mixture resembles thick,
cohesive dough; set aside to cool to room temperature, 10
to 15 minutes.
For the cake: Using stand mixer fitted with paddle,
mix flour, granulated sugar, baking soda, and salt on low
speed to combine. With mixer running, add softened but-
ter 1 piece at a time. Continue beating until mixture resem-
bles moist crumbs, with no visible butter chunks remaining,
1 to 2 minutes. Add buttermilk, egg and yolk, and vanilla
and beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about
1 minute, scraping down bowl as needed.
Transfer batter to prepared pan. Using rubber spatula,
spread batter into even layer. Break apart crumb topping
into large pea-size pieces and spread in even layer over bat-
ter, beginning with edges and then working toward center.
Bake until crumbs are golden and toothpick inserted in
center of cake comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes, rotating
pan halfway through baking. Let cool on wire rack for at
least 30 minutes. Remove cake from pan by lifting parch-
ment overhang. Dust with confectioners’ sugar just before
serving.
Daniel J. van Ackere/America’s Test Kitchen via AP
New York-style crumb cake.